AYT Studio carves a path between contemporary fashion and artistic expression

Fashion Network

7 days ago

Like the great painters and sculptors, fashion designers and luxury brands now find themselves featured in retrospectives in museums around the world. While the number of links between fashion and art has multiplied over the past decade, the motivations of those involved in the ready-to-wear sector can be diverse, ranging from the search for artistic legitimacy to the creation of new experiences or successful commercial operations.
For Yasmine El Kadiri, who worked for Kenzo, Celine, and Saint Laurent as a merchandising specialist, and who was at the forefront of observing this flourishing of collections centred around artworks and artists, this trend represents an opportunity. "When I observed these initiatives, they were often linked to an artist's work. But I believe there exists a space to create a dialogue with artists, where the artist participates in and influences the creative process. For me, creative engagement is a driving force, even though I have a commercial background. I have this desire for co-creation."
The designer first put her concept to the test in the IFM Entrepreneurship program, before developing the first AYT Studio collection from mid-2024, with the intention of creating limited editions around her collaborations with artists. "I wanted to approach these collections under the concept of editions because I didn't want the work to be associated with a particular season, there's a kind of timelessness."
For this first edition, the designer has collaborated with Lille-based artist Remed (Guillaume Alby) to translate the painter's works into garments. Together, they explored the possibilities of using details from certain artworks to create prints. The collaboration covers around twenty pieces, focusing on flowing viscose dresses featuring all-over prints. Produced in Italian workshops, the garments echo Remed's graphic and colourful work. Shirts, t-shirts, silk squares, and leather bags, made in the Tarn region of France, make up a comprehensive, colourful wardrobe that has been divided into four chapters.
"I work in print, which is a niche in the fashion world, but it's an interesting expression in terms of colour and volume," said the entrepreneur. "I appeal to a community that is sensitive to the artistic approach. I think in terms of silhouettes, with dresses, shirts, but also accessories," said the designer, who is proud of her local sourcing. "And while each edition will explore the work of a particular artist, I can also express the AYT Studio style through contemporary cuts, fluidity and optimism, as well as the presence of certain pieces that are my references, like oversized shirts. I want to add markers that will reassure the customer."
The brand can be found online via its aesthetic e-commerce store, but Yasmine El Kadiri relies on physical encounters to best express her concept. This approach was validated after a pop-up in the Marais district of Paris in spring, in which Remed's works mirrored the clothes on display, enabling the label to reach both French and international customers.
The designer is continuing in this vein, exhibiting her creations until the end of July at the We Are club in Paris, located on rue Saint-Honoré and dedicated to the creative industries. The brand will then move on to the new We Are location in Lille, at 22, place Louise-de-Bettignies, in the heart of Vieux-Lille. This will be followed by another installation for a few days in the Parisian space, during the next Women's Fashion Week.
"This period is also an opportunity to meet buyers, particularly department stores who are interested in concepts that blend different universes. I'm convinced that in the plethora of ready-to-wear on offer, what's going to make the difference is authenticity and commitment. The relationship with wholesale can take time, but there are opportunities around different venues, such as art foundations, and I'm a big believer in hotels. These are places where it's possible to express this relationship between the collection and the artist's work", said the entrepreneur, who is moving ahead with partnerships with resorts, to offer her editions as cruise collections.
With its original concept, beyond seducing buyers, AYT Studio is also imagining a new approach to fashion distribution.