Around Town: 3rd gen revives 80-year-old C D'Souza, a Goan culinary landmark in South Bombay; what's changed
In the late 19th century, many Goans migrated to then-Bombay in search of better livelihoods or stayed here briefly at one of the many clubs (kudds) before setting off on sailing jobs. To cater to them, Caricade D'Souza, a gentleman from Mapusa who settled in Bombay after working as a Railways technician, started a Goan restaurant in the early 1940s at Dukkar Galli, now Dr Cawasji Hormusji Street. He served authentic, homely Goan meals and named the establishment C D'Souza.
'We offered all the popular dishes, from poie bread to sorpotel, vindaloo, cafreal, xacuti, and more,' recalled his grandson Jude D'Souza, 60, who now runs the place along with his brother Carey (named after their grandfather Caricade), representing the third generation in the family business.
But Caricade D'Souza's journey in the food business had started a few years before that. 'After retiring from service, he began working in cafés and patisseries in Bombay, learning the tricks of the trade,' they shared.
Legend has it that it was a case of espionage that led to his first establishment. 'An Italian gentleman named A Comba was arrested by the police on charges of being a spy, and his eponymous confectionery was put up for auction. My grandfather outran everyone in the bid and took it over,' shared Jude. He reopened the space in the late 1930s and named it 'Marosas' after his wife, Maria Ruzai.
He even bailed Comba out and hired him. Together, they ran a thriving café that drew actors and politicians for tea and snacks. 'Marosas did silver service and tea was served English-breakfast style, with milk and sugar separately. Their Sicilian ice cream, with chocolate sandwiched between two layers of vanilla, was said to be to die for,' Jude added.
B R Ambedkar, architect of the Indian Constitution, would often drop by during High Court visits. Actor Raj Kapoor was a regular too. Marosas eventually shut in 1984 when the building went in for redevelopment.
Back at C D'Souza, business flourished, and Caricade involved many family members — some in the kitchen, others in service. 'For many Goans landing in Bombay, it was the first stop — and later, a second home,' recalled Jude. Goans had settled in neighbourhoods like Sonapur, Cavel, and Khotachiwadi, keeping the restaurant bustling.
After Caricade's passing in 1971, his wife Ruzai and son Janeiro took over. Later, Janeiro's wife Philomena and elder son Carey carried it forward.
'We were always well-known, but about 10–15 years ago, when many Goans began moving to the suburbs, business started to dip. Covid was the final nail,' said Jude. C D'Souza shut temporarily, and remained closed after Philomena passed away.
Jude, who was then working with an MNC abroad, returned in 2022. 'There wasn't a good Goan restaurant offering authentic, homely fare in South Bombay. It was time to revive the family legacy — C D'Souza.' Now called C D'Souza Marosas, the restaurant, opened in 2023, got a lease of life: bentwood chairs were polished, upholstery changed, and walls repainted. Adding a lot of colour are paintings by Goan artist Derek Monteiro.
The menu, just one page long, features beloved Goan staples: ross omelette, potato chops, prawn recheado, chicken xacuti, pork sorpotel, and vindaloo, served between 11.30 am to 7.30 pm. A counter beside the cashier displays desserts like fruit tarts and traditional Goan baath cake.
Our favourite was the chicken cafreal, a green-hued, intense, semi-dry gravy made with coriander and chillies. Paired with poie, it instantly evokes the feeling of a Goan home where a susegad nap is the only post-lunch plan.
The snacks included generously sized potato chops, made with chicken or pork, and puff pattices (with a vegetarian option too). The chops, filled with perfectly spiced minced meat and encased in a smooth potato layer, are the kind you keep returning to. We also sampled Goan chorizo sausages — an item sourced from Goa, along with the local vinegar that flavours nearly every gravy.
'Three weeks ago, we also started breakfast service on Sundays, due to popular demand from those who can't visit on weekdays,' Jude shared, adding that they haven't promoted themselves yet but are getting customers based on word-of-mouth. The clientele, he shared, is no longer limited to Goans — Parsis, Maharashtrians, Mangaloreans, and others now happily travel to Dukkar Galli for a satisfying, homestyle Goan meal.
As for dinner and delivery? 'That's in the works,' he smiled. 'Should be up and running in a few months.'
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