Stories in a city of contrasts

The Star

30-04-2025

The historic Fort Margherita, which will be the starting point of this year's Kuching Heritage Race on May 10. — ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star
AMID the sleek high-rises and bustling markets of Sarawak's capital Kuching, history whispers from every corner.
Colonial-era facades, weathered shophouses and riverside kampungs jostle for space with modern development, crafting a cityscape where heritage and progress coexist.
For the Kuching Heritage Awareness Society (KHAS), this tapestry of old and new isn't just a backdrop – it's a living classroom.
Founded in 2017, the non-profit has made it its mission to reignite pride in Sarawak's cultural legacy through its flagship event: the Kuching Heritage Race. Now in its seventh edition, the annual scavenger hunt-style challenge transforms the city into a playground of discovery, blending history, tradition and a dash of mischief.
'We take fun very seriously,' laughed KHAS president Philip Yong, ahead of this year's race on May 10.
'Each race takes a lot of organisation, but it's fun learning about your own heritage. And you get to take part in activities that otherwise might be lost, the games we played as children.'
Teams of two to five participants decode riddles to locate checkpoints across Kuching, tackling tasks that range from the whimsical to the physically daring.
Past editions have seen racers attempt lion dances under the scrutiny of seasoned performers and a roti canai seller judging participants' dough-flipping skills.
Other challenges included top spinning, performing a ribbon dance and blowing the blowpipe.
'It's all these things we have that we want people to appreciate and hopefully pass on to the next generation,' Yong said.
A participant performing a ribbon dance during last year's Kuching Heritage Race. — Photo courtesy of the Kuching Heritage Awareness Society
Each race explores a different neighbourhood, spotlighting hidden gems.
In 2023, teams navigated Batu Kawa's old bazaar, its pre-war shopfronts echoing tales of 19th-century traders.
The year prior, Kampung Nombor – a Satok village crisscrossed by Venice-like waterways – took centre stage.
'A lot of people also didn't know that SK Rakyat was one of the first public schools in that area. These are little things that we learn along the way,' said KHAS vice-president Dona Drury-Wee.
Collaboration with residents is key.
KHAS partners with village committees to learn about their history and traditional practices.
'Generally if there are local vendors, we try to include them in some part of the race.
'When we did it in Kampung Nombor, there was a roti canai seller, so we got him to judge the participants flipping a roti canai,' Drury-Wee said.
Proceeds from the event go to underfunded local charities.
For Yong (left) and Drury-Wee, the Kuching Heritage Race is a fun way to learn about the city's history and cultural practices. — ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star
'It's completely non-profit and voluntary. The funds raised will be given especially to charities that are underfunded and less well-known,' Yong said.
This year's theme, 'Past, Present and All Together', mirrors Kuching's own duality.
The route starts at the historic Brooke-era Fort Margherita towards the traditional riverine villages of Kampung Boyan, Kampung Gersik and Kampung Surabaya nearby.
'Every year the hope is the same: to create better awareness and appreciation of what we have and to encourage people to think about preserving their heritage,' Drury-Wee said.
Yong added that it was important to remember the past while moving into the future.
'With progress and change, we must not forget our traditions and where we come from.
'Even when life is changing so much, we build on what we have,' he said.
As Kuching hurtles towards tomorrow, its stories – of colonial intrigue, Dayak craftsmanship and kampung camaraderie – remain alive in the laughter of racers chasing clues, the thud of a coconut strike, and the swirl of a ribbon dance.
And for now, that's heritage worth running for.