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Stories in a city of contrasts
Stories in a city of contrasts

The Star

time30-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Star

Stories in a city of contrasts

The historic Fort Margherita, which will be the starting point of this year's Kuching Heritage Race on May 10. — ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star AMID the sleek high-rises and bustling markets of Sarawak's capital Kuching, history whispers from every corner. Colonial-era facades, weathered shophouses and riverside kampungs jostle for space with modern development, crafting a cityscape where heritage and progress coexist. For the Kuching Heritage Awareness Society (KHAS), this tapestry of old and new isn't just a backdrop – it's a living classroom. Founded in 2017, the non-profit has made it its mission to reignite pride in Sarawak's cultural legacy through its flagship event: the Kuching Heritage Race. Now in its seventh edition, the annual scavenger hunt-style challenge transforms the city into a playground of discovery, blending history, tradition and a dash of mischief. 'We take fun very seriously,' laughed KHAS president Philip Yong, ahead of this year's race on May 10. 'Each race takes a lot of organisation, but it's fun learning about your own heritage. And you get to take part in activities that otherwise might be lost, the games we played as children.' Teams of two to five participants decode riddles to locate checkpoints across Kuching, tackling tasks that range from the whimsical to the physically daring. Past editions have seen racers attempt lion dances under the scrutiny of seasoned performers and a roti canai seller judging participants' dough-flipping skills. Other challenges included top spinning, performing a ribbon dance and blowing the blowpipe. 'It's all these things we have that we want people to appreciate and hopefully pass on to the next generation,' Yong said. A participant performing a ribbon dance during last year's Kuching Heritage Race. — Photo courtesy of the Kuching Heritage Awareness Society Each race explores a different neighbourhood, spotlighting hidden gems. In 2023, teams navigated Batu Kawa's old bazaar, its pre-war shopfronts echoing tales of 19th-century traders. The year prior, Kampung Nombor – a Satok village crisscrossed by Venice-like waterways – took centre stage. 'A lot of people also didn't know that SK Rakyat was one of the first public schools in that area. These are little things that we learn along the way,' said KHAS vice-president Dona Drury-Wee. Collaboration with residents is key. KHAS partners with village committees to learn about their history and traditional practices. 'Generally if there are local vendors, we try to include them in some part of the race. 'When we did it in Kampung Nombor, there was a roti canai seller, so we got him to judge the participants flipping a roti canai,' Drury-Wee said. Proceeds from the event go to underfunded local charities. For Yong (left) and Drury-Wee, the Kuching Heritage Race is a fun way to learn about the city's history and cultural practices. — ZULAZHAR SHEBLEE/The Star 'It's completely non-profit and voluntary. The funds raised will be given especially to charities that are underfunded and less well-known,' Yong said. This year's theme, 'Past, Present and All Together', mirrors Kuching's own duality. The route starts at the historic Brooke-era Fort Margherita towards the traditional riverine villages of Kampung Boyan, Kampung Gersik and Kampung Surabaya nearby. 'Every year the hope is the same: to create better awareness and appreciation of what we have and to encourage people to think about preserving their heritage,' Drury-Wee said. Yong added that it was important to remember the past while moving into the future. 'With progress and change, we must not forget our traditions and where we come from. 'Even when life is changing so much, we build on what we have,' he said. As Kuching hurtles towards tomorrow, its stories – of colonial intrigue, Dayak craftsmanship and kampung camaraderie – remain alive in the laughter of racers chasing clues, the thud of a coconut strike, and the swirl of a ribbon dance. And for now, that's heritage worth running for.

The cultured alternative to Venice that tourists haven't spoilt (yet)
The cultured alternative to Venice that tourists haven't spoilt (yet)

Telegraph

time31-03-2025

  • Telegraph

The cultured alternative to Venice that tourists haven't spoilt (yet)

Authentic, untouristy and quietly proud, Udine is at the heart of the Friuli Venezia Giulia region in Italy's far north east – around a 90-minute drive from Venice. Its elegant, pedestrianised centre and thriving wine-bar culture are hard to beat. Nearly 400 years of Venetian rule (1420-1797) left a strong legacy in Udine and nowhere is it more evident than Piazza Libertà, which is like a mini St Mark's Square. Udine even has a pair of canals, called rogge, adding to the Venice-like atmosphere. Behind the piazza, a slope flanked by a decorative Venetian Gothic portico leads up the city's only hill (there is also a panoramic lift) to Udine Castle, actually a 16th-century palazzo now hosting museums, built by the Venetians as their base in Friuli. While stories that Attila's soldiers built the hill to watch Aquileia burn are fanciful legends, recent research shows that it is in fact a man-made Bronze Age mound. The hilltop is a perfect venue for concerts, including the Udin&Jazz festival in July. It's also home to the Santa Maria di Castello church and bell tower topped by a gleaming gold angel, a landmark visible from afar. Across the lawn from the castle, Casa della Contadinanza is a lovely spot for drinks or lunch, al-fresco or in the atmospheric interior. The menu features tasty favourites such as frico (cheesy potato) and pasta with Friulian San Daniele prosciutto. Udine's osterie are a real institution, rather like local pubs drawing all kinds of regulars who pop in for a lunchtime bite, a drink after work, to meet friends or simply for a break during a busy day. While Birreria Bernotti has revived Udine's beer-hall tradition, wine dominates elsewhere. White Friulano is the classic sip for a tajut (glass of wine, literally 'cut'); try too the fragrant Ribolla Gialla and white blends typical of the nearby Collio area. For reds, order fruity, full-bodied Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, or lighter, spicy Schioppettino. Piazza Matteotti is lined with bars and pavement tables but for the true osteria atmosphere head to the surrounding side streets. Da Michele is a classic, with bar stools, a few tables for diners and an excellent range of largely local wines. Nearby, Grappolo d'Oro, over 200 years old, has a low-key atmosphere and mismatched tables; warm, jovial Pieri Mortadele tempts guests with a huge mortadella and Vinodilà has a contemporary minimalist vibe, offering rare wines from small producers. The osterie all serve bar snacks like tartine (fresh bread with toppings) or breadsticks wrapped in prosciutto and a selection of cooked dishes at mealtimes – perhaps pulse soups, sausage or cjarsons, the region's most curious pasta speciality, with fillings of greens, pine nuts and cinnamon. Osteria alla Ghiacciaia has a fuller menu and a gorgeous canalside position, with weeping willows and wisteria; historic Osteria al Cappello has six colourful and cosy guest bedrooms upstairs. Another wonderfully central accommodation option is the contemporary Oriana Homèl Udine, offering apartments with kitchens; room one has unbeatable views over Piazza Libertà. Udine has some excellent restaurants too. A meal at Vitello d'Oro is a memorable experience, thanks to chef Massimiliano Sabinot's delicious and imaginative dishes that resemble artworks, featuring much seafood and seasonal produce, plus perfect wine pairings. Hostaria alla Tavernetta is traditional in both décor (think open fire and flower-framed terrace) and menu. The mid-September Friuli DOC festival showcases the whole range of regional flavours and during October top international chefs convene for Ein Prosit, a series of foodie events. Arts and crafts When the Venetians took over, the previously ruling Patriarchate of Aquileia relinquished their political role, along with the castle, and moved into Palazzo Patriarcale, today home to the Museo Diocesano and Gallerie del Tiepolo, housing Venetian artist Giambattista Tiepolo's signature pastel-toned masterpieces. See more of his often playful works at Udine's cathedral and Oratorio della Purità. At Casa Cavazzini, the art is modern and contemporary, in the curious context of a former merchant's home, still featuring original 1930s furnishings. Over the centuries, Udine was circled by five successive sets of walls and although only fragments of these remain, several city gates are still standing. One, the medieval Santa Maria tower, houses fascinating, interactive exhibitions on industrial traditions. The 2025 theme is wood furnishings; chair-making is a long-standing local craft. At Museo Etnografico, visitors can see traditional costumes including scarpets, shoes that have recently returned to popularity. These, and other ceramic, wood and fabric crafts, are sold at Il Mulino. Out and about Head east of Udine to learn a tasty skill at La Gubana della Nonna. Elisa Costantini shares tips and techniques for the perfect gubana, the local favourite cake with an irresistible filling of walnuts, raisins, grappa and amaretti. Gubana is on most Udine menus but originates here in the Natisone river valley, an area of spectacular landscapes with plenty of opportunities for walking and cycling to compensate for over-indulging. Nearby, a must-see is Cividale del Friuli, just 10 miles from Udine. Founded by Julius Caesar and originally called Forum Iulii (which developed into Friuli, naming the whole region), Cividale has a startlingly rich history and stunning views from the Ponte del Diavolo bridge. From 568AD, this was Italy's first Lombard capital and sights include Tempietto Longobardo, inside a convent. While in Cividale, eat at Al Monastero, a historical building with a traditional central fireplace, courtyard tables and typical dishes including river trout served with wines from the family winery. In addition to its own manifold charms, Udine makes a perfect base for exploring. There are regular trains to Friuli Venezia Giulia's other main centres (and Trieste Airport) while mountains, coastline and the border with Slovenia are all under an hour away.

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