The cultured alternative to Venice that tourists haven't spoilt (yet)

Telegraph

31-03-2025

Authentic, untouristy and quietly proud, Udine is at the heart of the Friuli Venezia Giulia region in Italy's far north east – around a 90-minute drive from Venice. Its elegant, pedestrianised centre and thriving wine-bar culture are hard to beat.
Nearly 400 years of Venetian rule (1420-1797) left a strong legacy in Udine and nowhere is it more evident than Piazza Libertà, which is like a mini St Mark's Square. Udine even has a pair of canals, called rogge, adding to the Venice-like atmosphere.
Behind the piazza, a slope flanked by a decorative Venetian Gothic portico leads up the city's only hill (there is also a panoramic lift) to Udine Castle, actually a 16th-century palazzo now hosting museums, built by the Venetians as their base in Friuli. While stories that Attila's soldiers built the hill to watch Aquileia burn are fanciful legends, recent research shows that it is in fact a man-made Bronze Age mound. The hilltop is a perfect venue for concerts, including the Udin&Jazz festival in July. It's also home to the Santa Maria di Castello church and bell tower topped by a gleaming gold angel, a landmark visible from afar.
Across the lawn from the castle, Casa della Contadinanza is a lovely spot for drinks or lunch, al-fresco or in the atmospheric interior. The menu features tasty favourites such as frico (cheesy potato) and pasta with Friulian San Daniele prosciutto.
Udine's osterie are a real institution, rather like local pubs drawing all kinds of regulars who pop in for a lunchtime bite, a drink after work, to meet friends or simply for a break during a busy day. While Birreria Bernotti has revived Udine's beer-hall tradition, wine dominates elsewhere.
White Friulano is the classic sip for a tajut (glass of wine, literally 'cut'); try too the fragrant Ribolla Gialla and white blends typical of the nearby Collio area. For reds, order fruity, full-bodied Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, or lighter, spicy Schioppettino.
Piazza Matteotti is lined with bars and pavement tables but for the true osteria atmosphere head to the surrounding side streets. Da Michele is a classic, with bar stools, a few tables for diners and an excellent range of largely local wines. Nearby, Grappolo d'Oro, over 200 years old, has a low-key atmosphere and mismatched tables; warm, jovial Pieri Mortadele tempts guests with a huge mortadella and Vinodilà has a contemporary minimalist vibe, offering rare wines from small producers.
The osterie all serve bar snacks like tartine (fresh bread with toppings) or breadsticks wrapped in prosciutto and a selection of cooked dishes at mealtimes – perhaps pulse soups, sausage or cjarsons, the region's most curious pasta speciality, with fillings of greens, pine nuts and cinnamon. Osteria alla Ghiacciaia has a fuller menu and a gorgeous canalside position, with weeping willows and wisteria; historic Osteria al Cappello has six colourful and cosy guest bedrooms upstairs. Another wonderfully central accommodation option is the contemporary Oriana Homèl Udine, offering apartments with kitchens; room one has unbeatable views over Piazza Libertà.
Udine has some excellent restaurants too. A meal at Vitello d'Oro is a memorable experience, thanks to chef Massimiliano Sabinot's delicious and imaginative dishes that resemble artworks, featuring much seafood and seasonal produce, plus perfect wine pairings. Hostaria alla Tavernetta is traditional in both décor (think open fire and flower-framed terrace) and menu.
The mid-September Friuli DOC festival showcases the whole range of regional flavours and during October top international chefs convene for Ein Prosit, a series of foodie events.
Arts and crafts
When the Venetians took over, the previously ruling Patriarchate of Aquileia relinquished their political role, along with the castle, and moved into Palazzo Patriarcale, today home to the Museo Diocesano and Gallerie del Tiepolo, housing Venetian artist Giambattista Tiepolo's signature pastel-toned masterpieces. See more of his often playful works at Udine's cathedral and Oratorio della Purità.
At Casa Cavazzini, the art is modern and contemporary, in the curious context of a former merchant's home, still featuring original 1930s furnishings.
Over the centuries, Udine was circled by five successive sets of walls and although only fragments of these remain, several city gates are still standing. One, the medieval Santa Maria tower, houses fascinating, interactive exhibitions on industrial traditions. The 2025 theme is wood furnishings; chair-making is a long-standing local craft.
At Museo Etnografico, visitors can see traditional costumes including scarpets, shoes that have recently returned to popularity. These, and other ceramic, wood and fabric crafts, are sold at Il Mulino.
Out and about
Head east of Udine to learn a tasty skill at La Gubana della Nonna. Elisa Costantini shares tips and techniques for the perfect gubana, the local favourite cake with an irresistible filling of walnuts, raisins, grappa and amaretti. Gubana is on most Udine menus but originates here in the Natisone river valley, an area of spectacular landscapes with plenty of opportunities for walking and cycling to compensate for over-indulging.
Nearby, a must-see is Cividale del Friuli, just 10 miles from Udine. Founded by Julius Caesar and originally called Forum Iulii (which developed into Friuli, naming the whole region), Cividale has a startlingly rich history and stunning views from the Ponte del Diavolo bridge. From 568AD, this was Italy's first Lombard capital and sights include Tempietto Longobardo, inside a convent.
While in Cividale, eat at Al Monastero, a historical building with a traditional central fireplace, courtyard tables and typical dishes including river trout served with wines from the family winery.
In addition to its own manifold charms, Udine makes a perfect base for exploring. There are regular trains to Friuli Venezia Giulia's other main centres (and Trieste Airport) while mountains, coastline and the border with Slovenia are all under an hour away.