This Underrated Caribbean Beach Town Is a Celebrity-favorite—and It Has Stunning Beaches, Boutique Hotels, and Crystal-clear Lagoons

Travel + Leisure

a day ago

Playa Grande Beach Club is an intimate collection of artfully designed bungalows set along one of the region's best beaches.
Find flavorful Dominican bites and plenty of seafood at the beachside vendors that set up shop on the sands of Playa Grande; they're favored by locals and visitors alike.
Perched on a clifftop overlooking an immaculate stretch of sand, Amanera embodies the sleek, sexy design Aman properties are known for, from its wellness spaces to its luxurious casitas.
Laguna Gri-Gri is a haven for tropical birds and a picturesque spot for a sunset cruise amidst mangroves and coastal coves.
Drive down the coast to catch the waves in Cabarete, at what is considered one of the best destinations for kitesurfing in the Caribbean.
While luxury travelers once eschewed the Dominican Republic for neighboring islands, that's not the case anymore—and many are heading north, to a lesser-visited coastline where generous stretches of golden sand and tropical forests hide some of the most exclusive properties in the Caribbean.
Most visitors to the Dominican Republic are usually lured in by the all-inclusive resorts of Punta Cana. However, along the enviable beaches that radiate from either side of Rio San Juan, Dominican Republic, a decidedly more luxe escape has blossomed, home to boutique hotels from some of the world's most upscale hotel brands—and those in the know are catching on. Recent visitors have included high-wattage names such as DJ Khaled, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Bad Bunny.
"The region maintains a strong sense of 'self' with local culture and community abundant and allowing guests to experience a true Dominican flavor," says Lionel Valla, general manager of Amanera.
But despite all the new development, you'll still find seemingly untouched beaches that meet towering mountain peaks coated with lush tropical forests. It's a different side of the Dominican Republic that feels raw, real, and absolutely breathtaking.
Here's what you need to know before visiting Rio San Juan, Dominican Republic.
A guest room at Playa Grande Beach Club.
Colorful Caribbean style and Palm Beach design meet at Playa Grande Beach Club, once a privately-owned collection of beachfront bungalows, that are now a luxury boutique hotel. Antique furniture and art pieces, handmade tiles, and ornate Dominican-inspired architecture make this property one of a kind, which is all the work of award-winning interior designer and owner Celerie Kemble. With just nine intimate bungalows, each with thoughtful touches like private verandas and copper soaking tubs, Playa Grande Beach Club feels like nothing less than the home away from home you've always dreamed of.
One of just two Aman hotels in the Caribbean, Amanera overlooks expanses of untouched jungle and white sands that serve as breathtaking reminders of the area's natural beauty. The property's 25 stylish standalone casitas make use of clean lines and minimalist, modern design to maximize the tropical views. Amanera has amenities such as a state-of-the-art gym, sports courts, and a wellness center with a full range of spa treatments and experiences like guided meditation and yoga sessions. Dining in the hotel's clifftop, open-air restaurant is a must on your itinerary, whether you're a guest or not.
ÀNI Dominican Republic feels like the pinnacle of luxury. It's an intimate resort that welcomes just one group of guests at a time to its private peninsula, which has sweeping 270-degree views of the sea. Designed for groups of up to 28 guests at a time, the property has a 30-person staff to take care of every detail of an all-inclusive stay the likes of which you've never experienced before. Private chef and butler service, childcare, excursions and activities, and even spa treatments are all inclusive here, a staple of the experience at Àni private resorts, found in a handful of dreamy destinations, including Anguilla, Sri Lanka, and Thailand.
Many locals consider the beaches on the country's north coast to be some of the best in the country. Playa Grande is the area's largest and most picturesque, and its shores are surrounded by cliffs, but Valla also recommends visiting Playa Preciosa, located just a few minutes away. "Consistent waves, uncrowded beaches and temperate waters" make it suitable for both surfing and swimming, he says. Drive down the coast to Playa Calentón for a smaller yet similarly gorgeous stretch of sand with beach chairs and umbrellas for rent and food vendors to try.
Set back from the serene beaches just north of Rio San Juan, Laguna Gri-Gri is a crystal-clear lagoon lined with mangrove forests and caves where tropical birds nest, making it one of the region's most important bird sanctuaries. Excursions include boat rides through the lagoon's peaceful channels that cut towards the sea, and stops at coves and caves for swimming and snorkeling.
Adrenaline junkies rejoice! The northern coast of the Dominican Republic is a haven for watersports enthusiasts looking to spend their days surfing, paddleboarding, sailing, and more. Kitesurfing is the name of the game in Cabarete, with its aptly-named Kite Beach and a line of shops renting gear and offering classes for all levels. The region is one of the few places in the world where conditions are ideal for the sport year-round, though winds tend to be most favorable for kitesurfing in the warmer summer months.
Every year between January and March, the Dominican Republic welcomes migrating humpback whales who seek out these warm waters to give birth to their young. You'll have to head to Samaná Bay to spot them, but it's well worth the hour-and-a-half drive to see baby whales frolicking with their mothers up close. Reward yourself with a stop at the white sand beaches of Cayo Levantado along the way.
The Playa Grande Beach Club restaurant.
Wander in off the beach for a late lunch or sunset dinner at Playa Grande Beach Club's main restaurant, set in its stately main house and within earshot of the ocean. The farm-to-table ethos is on full display in dishes throughout the menu, which features fresh fish and seafood alongside classic Dominican dishes available all day.
There is nothing better than sipping drinks at sunset on the clifftops at Amanera's Casa Grande, though the restaurant's menu of impeccably fresh, flavorful dishes, drawing inspiration from both island and international influences, might give the views a run for their money. Casa Grande is open throughout the day and particularly popular in the evening, though brunch is its own culinary highlight. Reservations are required.
The best bites in town are some of the simplest, sold directly on the sand at Playa Grande from a handful of vendors who set up shop rain or shine. "You can eat fresh fish, the sweetest piña coladas served right out of the pineapple, perfectly crispy fried plantain, and drink ice-cold beers," says Alexandra Jeronimo, the general manager at Playa Grande Beach Club. "You can also shop their little market of country souvenirs, including larimar, a gorgeous blue stone found only on the island."
Rio San Juan has a handful of local eateries to choose from, but Cheo's is a popular choice for its friendly, welcoming atmosphere and generous servings of local favorites. The space is simple, but dishes like grilled lobster and fresh seafood served with fried plantains make it a standout, while affordable lunch specials make it the best deal in town. Aerial view of Playa Preciosa in Rio San Juan.
Despite growing interest in travel to this part of the country, Rio San Juan remains largely unchanged, and it's still a small fishing village at its core. Though there's little to do beyond grabbing beachside bites and stocking up on staples for your stay, that's kind of its charm. However, be sure to make time to take in its mountain viewpoints, stunning beaches, and local eateries. Playa Grande, just a few minutes north of town, boasts the region's sleekest accommodations and dining outlets, making it a must-visit destination while exploring the area.
"Cabarete is world-renowned for kitesurfing, but the sweeping stretches of coastline will also take your breath away," says Valla of the beach town located just an hour down the coast. Wild watersports excursions and lessons for would-be surfers and pros make this a haven for the laidback rather than the luxe. However, even the poshest of travelers will have trouble finding any fault with the line of beachfront bars and restaurants.
Jeronimo recommends spending some time in Cabrera, sited just half an hour from Rio San Juan. He says one of the highlights here is"a walk on the cliffs in Cabrera at sunset," since the region is known for its less-visited beaches and beautiful mountainous hiking areas that hide waterfalls and lovely viewpoints. Make sure to stop at Laguna Dudú, an oversized cenote filled with crystal clear water for cliff diving and snorkeling.
The pool area at Playa Grande Beach Club.
The best time to visit the north coast of the Dominican Republic is between December and April, when sunny skies and slightly cooler temperatures make for ideal beach weather. Picture-perfect days draw many snowbirds and higher prices to match. However, this less-visited region still only gets a fraction of Punta Cana's travelers and never feels crowded.
Atlantic hurricane season spans from June through November, so travelers visiting during the summer should expect more frequent rain showers and warmer temperatures, even when no tropical storms are in sight. The benefit of visiting during the low season is slashed prices on everything from flights to hotels, and the opportunity to see the island in all its lush, green abundance.
Worried about the tangles of sargassum seaweed that have overtaken the beaches of many nearby Caribbean destinations? Don't be. Due to its location, "Rio San Juan is untouched by the sargassum that has impacted many other parts of the Dominican Republic and the Caribbean," says Valla. Aerial view of a small boat pulling into a Rio San Juan lagoon.
This stretch of the country's northern coast is most easily accessible via Gregorio Luperón International Airport (POP) in Puerto Plata, located about an hour and a half west of Rio San Juan. Though Puerto Plata doesn't have as many arrivals as Punta Cana, direct flights from cities like Atlanta, New York, Charlotte, Miami, and Boston make it easily accessible from the East Coast. Starting in January, Copa Airlines will begin offering direct flights to Puerto Plata via Panama City, making it even more easily accessible from the rest of the region.
Travelers can also consider flying into nearby airports and making a slightly longer drive to the region. The island's capital city, Santo Domingo, is about 2.5 hours away, and Santiago de los Caballeros is about 2 hours away. A white sand beach with clear blue water.Adventurous travelers can pick up a rental car from the airport in Puerto Plata and will find it relatively easy to navigate the main roads in the region. However, most visitors prefer to book transportation with their hotel or resort before arriving, whether in the form of a private car and driver or shared transportation with other guests. As most travelers tend to stick close to the beach or hotel for most of their stay in the region, having a rental car for your visit may be more of a hassle and an expense than it is worth.