Culinary ‘genius' raised in Belfast and regarded as one of Ireland's greatest chefs feels the heat in business
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Time Out
2 hours ago
- Time Out
Two celebrated Mexican chefs are now leading the charge at this chic Blue Mountains restaurant
A golden hash brown topped with soft, sweet leeks and whipped n'duja with a karate-like kick. Slow-cooked lamb barbacoa with a savoury consomé and rings of burnt onions. Succulent fried chicken sitting in a fragrant Warrigal greens curry sauce, adorned with zippy pickled jicama and cucumber. These are some of the dishes on the new menu at Blaq – a chic Blue Mountains restaurant found at Kyah Hotel in Blackheath. And if you reckon they'd be delicious, you'd be right. That's because a new executive chef is in charge. His name is Alejandro Huerta, and if that name sounds familiar, it's because he was recently heading up the excellent – but sadly now closed – Comedor in Newtown. The Mexican-born chef, who has also had stints at Noma in Copenhagen and Pujol in Mexico City, has created a bold, produce-led menu that draws inspiration from around the world – with Mexican flavours woven throughout. In even better news, Huerta is joined by his wife, Galia Valadez, in the kitchen, who is heading up desserts. Valadez brings more than two decades of experience to Blaq, including time at Spain's Michelin-starred Lillas Pastia. Her banana and corn cake with crème fraîche, caramelised white chocolate and koji is a beautifully balanced (and yum) ode to her heritage and her partner – Huerta is a big fan of bananas. 'When we met with the team at Kyah, we fell in love with the project and the vision for Blaq,' says Huerta. 'It made total sense for us to move here and be part of this exciting evolution – showcasing the beauty and richness of the region through food.' 'I've always liked doing things differently and I love having different flavours and textures in what I cook, while keeping it always very casual and fun. My Mexican heritage combined with my love for different ingredients makes for a very interesting combo. We want to make sure that everyone that comes to Blaq has the best time while eating delicious food that's unexpected – but in a good way,' Huerta adds. On that note, you can also expect to find dishes like a crisp wontons topped with fresh tuna, chilli crunch and thin shavings of bonito flakes; and Murray cod paired with borlotti beans bathed in a vibrant green sauce spiked with dill and lemon. Cocktails are another standout, thanks to the team collaborating with one of Australia's best bartenders, Jake Down, on the menu. Our picks are the fresh, light Gala Rain, made with apple, cucumber, green tea and gin; and the Mountain Grapefruit with lime and tequila. If you're looking for somewhere to base yourself in the Blue Mountains, Kyah – with its modern and stylish rooms, thoughtful touches, hot tub, tennis court and sauna – is a cracking place to relax, have fun and breathe in the crisp air. Just make sure you book dinner at Blaq. Find out more here.
Time Out
2 days ago
- Time Out
Photograph: Courtesy of Chris Coe
Nico Russell's whole get is using what's sprouting from the ground and turning it into something special. He got a name for himself by doing exactly that at the pop-up turned permanent, Oxalis, whose hyper-seasonal, Michelin-starred tasting menu was one of the more affordable in the city (it has since transformed into Cafe Mado). But soon, Russell and his team, including beverage director Piper Kristensen and partner and co-founder Steve Wong, were ready to lean into a more casual realm. And they did so with Place des Fêtes. Much how Oxalis got its start, Place des Fêtes followed as a pop-up, albeit with some permanence, as it debuted in Oxalis's alleyway during COVID times. Two years later, a more formal brick-and-mortar debuted in Clinton Hill with such buzz that reservations were near impossible and lines were a constant feature. Now that the wave has transitioned to a steady trickle of clientele, the restaurant and bar has settled into what it always intended to be: a laid-back find where the wine is as intentional as the small plates before you. The vibe: Think of a neighborhood wine bar. Somehow, someway, you've probably conjured something close to Place des Fêtes. The front area reads cheffy and new with whitewashed brick and a marble bar with wines stacked up behind it. The kitchen? Chefs chop, sear and plate dishes in an open format, viewable by all with just the flick of the eye. Just past it is the second dining room that reads rustic, like you are housed within a 120-year-old Brooklyn brownstone, rustic (because you are). The back is a bit more lived in as the ceilings are brassy and tin, brick peeks through breaks in the concrete and there's a skylight that gives a soft glow to it all. Yet no matter where you plunk down, there's a sense of vibrancy here, whether catching up over a few glasses or diving into a meal at one of the community tables. The food: You can always pick and choose a few small plates if your purpose is to yap and drink, or it is entirely possible to ply the table for a full meal; really, the choice is yours. The style of eating here is tapas, and the restaurant leans heavy on sustainable selections from the sea, and so should you when ordering. There are a few items that have stayed on since day one, such as the Bangs Island Mussels En Verde. Here, juicy mussels are blanketed in a vibrant and herby sauce that only asks to be mopped with a swipe of bread, which they currently source thick hunks from Laurel Bakery. But the chalkboard hung in the back room is constantly written and rewritten with what sways the kitchen, as a recent visit yielded thin, damn near translucent ribbons of lightly sweetened bonny melon that were enlivened with pops of basil and mint. The drinks: Wine, of course! All you have to do is tell your server or the somm what you fancy, and they will enthusiastically rattle off bottles and notes until you find one that fits. But if a sense of adventure has taken hold, ask about the wine roulette that cycles through New World varietals to chilled reds.
Evening Standard
2 days ago
- Evening Standard
London Mediterranean: the style defining the capital's hottest restaurants
Many in and around the restaurant industry ask why Perilla hasn't ever been awarded a Michelin star. The fact it hasn't been is a damning indictment on the guide. Consider Ben Marks' mussel tartare, which comes fine on top of 'yesterday's bread' and is soaked in the liquor from moules mariniere. Highly inventive and a lot of fun, much the same as the fried cod cheeks with curry sauce arriving with all manner of accoutrement. Here is the move: take half a cod cheek, cover it in a smidge of pickled gooseberry sauce, a little of the tartare and two slivers of sliced cornichon, then add to that a dollop of the curry and a sprinkling of fried capers. Email me if you find a better mouthful this side of Christmas. See also: Morchella, Perilla's sister restaurant. Get the spanikopita and the pork jowl there.
