REVIEW: Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias in Colwyn Bay

Leader Live

25-05-2025

The restaurant, ideally situated on Colwyn Bay's seafront, regularly features in lists of the top places to eat in Wales and the UK.
Most recently it was named in the OpenTable top 100 places in the UK for outdoor dining, a list compiled from customer reviews.
TASTE TEST: Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias.
On OpenTable, the Porth Eirias restaurant has a 4.7 (out of 5) rating with nearly 4,000 reviews.
I was aware of Bryn Williams having followed his career.
Bryn, a former Coleg Llandrillo student originally from Denbigh, has gone on to have incredible success after he appeared on the Great British Menu in 2006.
Williams worked for Michel Roux Jr at Le Gavroche in Mayfair between 1999 and 2003, starting out as a demi chef he honed his craft and graduated to sous chef before becoming Chef Patron of his very first restaurant, Odette's in 2008.
As he opened more restaurants, as well as marrying Texas singer Sharleen Spiteri, it was only a matter of time before he returned home to North Wales when he launched Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias in Colwyn Bay in 2015.
TASTE TEST: Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias.
And it was there I found myself on a Sunday morning as Colwyn Bay was gearing up to celebrate Pride.
OpenTable describes Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias thus: "This big open space with its easy, informal mood has an open kitchen where Bryn's team of chefs turn simple, local, seasonal ingredients into extraordinary bistro-style food. Menus are served all day by interesting people who really understand food, and there are no rules, so you can do what you like: tuck into breakfast, graze over small plates at the bar, share a Sunday feast with family, watch the sun go down with friends. Good times with good people, and no distance between you and the beach."
The space is very impressive, classy decor, lots of natural light from the large windows with spectacular views of the sand and sea, and an open kitchen where the dishes are prepared.
TASTE TEST: Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias.
Seafood takes centre stage on the menu from prawns, cod to mussels, but the breakfast menu is more traditional yet equally tantalising.
It was a busy day; I was one of the first customers to arrive but there were only a couple of tables unreserved. I would definitely recommend making a booking if you plan to eat there.
Despite this, the ambiance was chilled, and the staff were friendly and attentive. And, for some reason, dressed in a combo of white shirts and denim, a look that brought to mind George Michael in the 80s.
I know you can't go wrong with a traditional cooked breakfast, and I am certain the one served at Porth Eirias is top notch. However, I was in the mood for something different and opted for the muesli, soaked oats, yogurt, and apple, as well as Eggs Royale.
The muesli with soaked oats was delightful. The flavours and textures of a dessert while your mind can be tricked into thinking you've gone for the healthy option. The yoghurt gave a delicious tang while the fruit delivered a chewy sweetness that gave the dish substance.
TASTE TEST: Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias.
Next was Eggs Royale, essentially Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon in place of ham.
This dish, again, was excellent. It must be said that the price is double what you would pay in Wetherspoons for a similar dish. But the word similar is doing a lot of heavy lifting in the previous sentence; if you want something familiar, yet prepared with the best ingredients and utmost skill, then this is a treat worth splashing out on. Not to mention that the location, with stunning views of the coastline, that, on a sunny day, are worth every penny.
TASTE TEST: Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias.
I am a recent convert to poached eggs and these were the best I have had, with thick, luxurious yolks that combined with the rich Hollandaise. With the silky smoked salmon delivering saltiness and texture to the mix, this was a dish that, while humble, felt indulgent.
I will be returning to Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias as I think I've only scratched the surface of what is on offer.
It would be nice to try the restaurants famous seafood and other specialities like afternoon tea, and the Porth Eirias fish pie for two sounds delightful if anyone would like to join me.