The coastal city that shows off Amalfi without the crowds (or prices)
Wealthier than Rome by the 11th century thanks to its strategic trading location, Salerno has prehistoric foundations and a Greek legacy, as can be seen at the well-preserved, Unesco-listed ruins of Paestum. 'Salernum' was founded by the Romans in 197BC, then ruled by the Byzantines, Normans and Napoleon, among others. It was here that the West's first medical school was founded in the 9th century and, in 1943, the base from which the Allies launched Operation Avalanche, their invasion of Italy.
It's lively yet laid-back, with the grit of a working city, where fine food, local wines (a crisp white fiano, please), plenty of cycling and hiking, and genuine good value lie within a twisty drive of Amalfi's tumbledown towns. So, why battle busy Naples when Salerno, with its tiny airport, welcoming atmosphere and greater affordability, offers a far smoother gateway to this revered coastline?
• Morning Explore museums and galleries• Eat at Vicolo della Neve• Afternoon Arechi Castle• Drink at Dolci Ricordi• Evening Salerno's 11th-century cathedral• Eat at Volta del Fuenti
• Morning Take a cruise• Eat at Filtro• Afternoon Beach time• Drink at BAI craft beer• Evening Shopping in the old town• Eat at Embarcadero
● Salerno's story unfolds through the prehistoric, Roman and Hellenistic finds at the compact Archaeological Museum, with its ancient pottery and columns (free; comune.salerno.it), while artwork spanning some 500 years, including a Madonna and Child by Andrea Sabatini, can be found at the hidden away Salerno Art Gallery (free; livesalerno.com). The Virtual Museum of Salerno's Medical School offers an immersive examination of Europe's first such institution (£4.25; fondazionesms-it94.webnode.it), while the medieval aqueduct is an engineering masterpiece.
● Take the No 19 bus or follow the twisting road on foot to reach the remains of the hilltop Arechi Castle. This looming stone construction, dating from the 6th century, houses a small museum within its thick walls, plus plenty of opportunities to wander the ramparts for the spectacular views of the Gulf of Salerno (£4).
● The understated stonework in the courtyard of Salerno's 11th-century cathedral belies an internal medley of marble, sculptures and frescoes. There is also a dazzling collection of gold-leafed Renaissance artwork, medieval artefacts and the city's famed carved ivories in the cathedral's Diocesan Museum (£6; salernosacra.it).
● Make the most of the city's great location with a few hours of beach time. Find your spot on Scaramella beach, backed by the promenade, amenities and mountains. Loungers are available to rent (£3.50) on the mixture of dark sand and pebbles that gives way to the shallow expanse of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
● As the heat of the day fades, shutters creak open on shop fronts across the old town, where, among some imported tat, there are some great local products. You might be tempted by zesty lemon goods, lace and leatherwork or affordable handmade ceramics, such as those at Sorrentino,which come carefully packaged for the journey home (ceramicasorrentino.it).
● Pack swimmers and a towel for a six-hour cruise on board Euphoria from Salerno Molo Manfredi port to Positano and back. Bounce along the rocky coastline, taking in the likes of colourful Amalfi and Cetara, passing yachts, historic towers, luxury hotels and coves. Dive into the deep before tucking into the pasta lunch and glass of fizz on board (from £61pp; getyourguide.com).
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Proof, if needed, that you should always ask a local for the best pizza place, this tucked-away trattoria was recommended by a waiter at a neighbouring bar. Ice was once sold beneath its exposed brick arches, but today there is a warm family feel. Renowned for its obscenely good hand-stretched dough, the succulent tomato-based mussel 'soup' and Salerno's signature scazzetta cake seal the deal (pizza from £6; vicolodellanevesalerno.it).
It's near impossible to walk past this inviting wine bar on Via Mercanti without being lured in by its rows of bottles, ceiling covered with hanging ham legs, and outside tables. Ask its enigmatic owner, Ciro Ascione, for a board of freshly sliced prosciutto and Italian cheeses to accompany a local glass or two of fiano (wine from £5; fb.com/dolciricordisalerno).
The airy, whitewashed interior of this restaurant, where you can sample the local chef Michele de Blasio's innovative creations, has been chiselled into the side of a cliff and has just a hint of Bond villain lair. To see just why it's been awarded a Michelin star, choose the eight-course Riflessioni tasting menu; it features Campania's finest ingredients, with perfectly al dente ravioli and succulent lamb with pine nuts (tasting menu £166, mains from £30; giardinidelfuenti.com).
Behind rustic forest-green metal shutters in the old town lies the café Filtro, the envy of all street corners. Opened in 2024, this minimalist neighbourhood coffee shop serves buttery house-baked pastries and healthy brunches while brewing the silkiest flat whites in town (mains from £8; instagram.com/filtro_cafe).
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Choose from a vast array of bottled and draught Italian craft beers at this independent cavelike bar in the throng of the old town. Colourful seating outside makes for a fabulous spot from which to watch the world go by, pint in hand (drinks from £4; fb.com/bai.salerno).
Pop down to the promenade for a waterfront table at this contemporary Mediterranean seafood restaurant. Start with the lavish seafood sharing platter, followed by linguine with clams, which pairs perfectly with wine selected by the sommelier. There's a buzzing rooftop bar for afters too (mains from £17; embarcaderosalerno.it).
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Best for shoppingLocated in the vibrant pedestrianised area of the city, close to the railway station, harbour and high street shops, this historic family-run hotel has rooms to suit all budgets. Choose the Terrace Room for a boudoir with an outside view over the terracotta rooftops and be sure to take advantage of the generous continental breakfast buffet (B&B doubles from £160; montestella1914.it).
Sleep like a kingThis characterful apartment in the old town has centuries of history. The stylish interiors here complement the original exposed brickwork, wooden beams and restored floor tiles of what was an 8th-century royal residence. The well-equipped kitchens, shower rooms and floating double beds add a distinctly modern touch (B&B doubles from £59; vintohouse.com).
The suites at this opulently restored 19th-century palazzo in Salerno's old town offer a wild ride back in time. The baroque-style rooms have chandeliers, frescoes and gold walls. Book a room with a balcony for city views before heading into the cool, calm embrace of nearby Salerno Public Gardens, which opened in 1874 (room-only doubles from £156; santangelosalerno.com).
There are twice-weekly easyJet flights from Gatwick to Salerno Costa d'Amalfi airport. There is a 40-minute bus from the airport to the centre of town for about £4 one way.
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Walking is the best way to get around Salerno but there are also plenty of buses. If you're exploring Campania, including Pompeii, consider getting a Campania Artecard 3, which includes entrance to two big sites and public transport in Salerno and the wider region (£36; campaniartecard.it).Kirsten Henton was a guest of easyJet (easyjet.com), Vinto House (vintohouse.com), Volta del Fuenti (giardinidelfuenti.com)and Embarcadero (embarcaderosalerno.it). For more information see italia.it
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