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Otago Daily Times

05-08-2025

Carolina Doriti has travelled the Greek Islands, exploring each island's unique culinary traditions and meeting local cooks and producers.
Introduced to the magic of the Greek Islands by her grandfather George who hailed from the Cycladic Island of Paros and was a passionate storyteller and food lover, Doriti has spent every summer of her life on the islands.
"Preserving the islands' natural beauty and cherished traditions has become increasingly important to me, as it is to many locals."
Her recipe book The Greek Islands' Cookbook is a tribute to the cultures and people who have generously shared their food secrets and stories with her.
"Each page celebrates the warmth of the Greek Islanders, their deep connection to land and sea, and their remarkable and highly sustainable culinary creativity which keeps evolving and inspiring cooks."
Island cuisine reflects the bounty of the land and sea — from high mountains and lush valleys to rugged coastlines — and the constraints of remote living.
Some islands have benefited from historical trade routes, bringing ideas and ingredients while others have remained more influenced by long-standing local practices.
"On some islands, where farming has traditionally thrived or where winds made sea travel unreliable, the cuisine is centred around hearty meats, fresh local produce, pulses and grains with seafood playing a lesser role. In contrast, islands such as Kalymnos, Symi and Antiparos have nurtured a deep connection to the sea as other local resources were historically more limited. Here vibrant fishing traditions shape the cuisine."
Historically, islanders produced as much as they could locally, preserving everything from wild herbs, capers and sea fennel to tomatoes, nuts, fruit, bread and milk.
When tourism became the main source of income for islanders, local production gradually dropped on some islands. However, people continued these practices, maintaining their recipes and traditions.
"In the last years, there has been a significant effort to revive local production."
Most islands boast fantastic cheeses and wines, pies both savoury and sweet are popular everywhere, with each island making a different style.
The diet of many Greek islanders is held up as an ideal Mediterranean diet, promoting longevity and wellbeing featuring abundant vegetables, fruits, olive oil, pulses, cheeses, eggs and wine.
In her book Doriti has included which island the recipe came from as well as longer essays about different aspects of island life, sights and festivals.
"May this journey inspire you to explore, taste and embrace the magic of the Greek Islands and their delightful recipes." The book
Images and text from The Greek Islands Cookbook by Carolina Doriti, photography by Manos Chatzikonstantis. Murdoch Books RRP $45. Slow-roast chicken with potatoes
This dish is named after a unique cooking implement, a dome-shaped, heavy lid called a tserepa. Used on an open fire, the tserepa was fitted over a baking pan to act as a multi-purpose, mobile oven. The pan would be heated over hot coals, then the tserepa fitted on top and a few coals placed on the lid to ensure even cooking. Traditional tserepas were typically made of clay mixed with goat hair to strengthen the dome and prevent cracking. Nomadic shepherds, farm workers, labourers and others without access to a regular oven would take the tserepa with them to prepare bread, pies or roast meats, and particularly chicken. It was an essential utensil in the countryside on Ithaca, Kefalonia and Lefkada, as well as parts of mainland Greece. You can use a whole chicken or specific cuts like thighs or drumsticks, all with skin and bones intact. I find thighs with drumsticks attached to be ideal. The longer you cook this dish, the better the flavour develops. I've cooked it for up to 6 hours, which resulted in the best version so far. I offer two cooking methods: a slow version also suitable for wood-burning ovens and open fires, plus a faster version for convenience.
Ingredients
4 chicken thighs with drumsticks attached (about 1.5kg), rinsed and dried
140ml olive oil
1 large onion, peeled
2 Romano peppers (or red bell peppers)
2 tomatoes (about 400g), peeled and cored
70ml white wine
3 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
3-4 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped or thinly sliced
3 potatoes (about 650g), peeled and quartered lengthwise
3-4 fresh marjoram sprigs or
1½ tsp dried marjoram
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method
Preheat the oven to either 170°C/150°C fan to slow cook or 190°C/170°C fan for a faster cooking time. Rub the chicken thighs with a little olive oil and season generously with salt and black pepper. Arrange in a large, deep ovenproof dish.
Cut the onion, peppers and tomatoes into rough 3cm chunks, place in a bowl and season with salt and black pepper. Scatter the vegetables around and between the chicken thighs, including the tomato juices from the bowl.
In a separate bowl, combine the olive oil, white wine and lemon juice. Whisk in the minced garlic, then season with salt and black pepper. Pour this mixture over the chicken and vegetables, then add the marjoram. To ensure the dish cooks evenly and stays moist, first cover the ovenproof dish with parchment paper and then tightly seal it with a layer of foil. This traps in the steam during cooking and keeps the flavours locked in.
Place the dish in the hot oven and either slow cook it at 170°C/150°C fan for 5-6 hours or cook at 190°C/170°C fan for 2 hours or until the chicken and potatoes turn lightly golden and any liquid has significantly reduced. (If you need to speed up the roasting process even more, you can uncover the chicken after 1 hour and roast it for a further 45 minutes or until golden.)
Once done, carefully remove the foil and parchment paper — taking care not to burn yourself on the steam — and rest for 15 minutes before serving. 'Fourtalia' eggs with sausages, potatoes and mint
Fourtalia (also called froutalia) originates from the Cycladic islands, particularly Andros, Tinos and Mykonos, renowned for their gusty winds and pork-rich diets. This humble omelette is intertwined with the traditional pig-slaughter season, a practice still observed in certain villages. The original recipe includes preserved pork or sausage and lard, staples in every household. The sausage typically used is rustic and robust, infused with thyme, aniseed, fennel, black pepper, orange and wine. Similar to a frittata, potatoes form the base and occasionally artichokes, broad (fava) beans or onions are added, ensuring a low-cost, satisfying meal. I've opted for a lighter dish by omitting any cheese and milk, which is quicker and simpler to prepare but just as delicious. Plus I prefer crispier potatoes! For a vegetarian option, replace the sausages with courgettes (zucchini). Greeks relish sharing this dish during leisurely conversation, and even over drinks as it is good at any time of day, not just for brunch. Serves 2-4
Ingredients
3 medium potatoes (such as Maris Piper, Russet, Yukon Gold or any other variety good for frying), peeled
2 thick rustic sausages (about 180g spicy ones work well too)
Olive oil or any other neutral oil, for frying
6 large free-range eggs
2 Tbsp chopped fresh mint leaves, plus extra to serve
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve (optional): Crumbled feta
Method
Cut the potatoes into rough 1.5cm cubes. Place them in a bowl of cold water with a pinch of salt and let them soak for 15 minutes. Drain in a colander and pat dry with paper towels.
Meanwhile, slice the sausages into 1cm-thick rounds. Heat a large, deep, non-stick frying pan (skillet) with a lid over a medium heat and drizzle in a little oil. Once hot, add the sliced sausages and cook for a few minutes, turning occasionally, until lightly browned on all sides. Leaving any oil behind in the pan, transfer the sausages to a plate and keep warm.
Using the same pan, add enough oil to reach a depth of 3cm to cover the potatoes. Turn up the heat to medium-high. Once the oil reaches 180°C, add the diced potatoes and fry until crisp and golden this typically takes 8-12 minutes depending on the variety of potato. For the first 6-7 minutes, avoid stirring the potatoes to allow them to cook evenly. Once they start to crisp up, gently stir to ensure even cooking.
While the potatoes are frying, crack the eggs into a bowl, add the mint and season with plenty of salt and black pepper. Lightly beat until just combined. Once the potatoes are crispy, carefully ladle or pour off some of the oil (about ⅓ cup) from the pan. Return the pan to a medium-low heat.
Arrange the cooked sausages over the potatoes in the pan and pour over the beaten eggs. Cover with the lid and cook for 6 minutes, or until the eggs are set. Using a spatula, transfer the fourtalia to a serving platter.
Sprinkle over the crumbled feta, if using, immediately before serving. 'Pastitsada' beef stewed in a spicy tomato sauce served over pasta Serves 4-6
Ingredients
1kg beef for stewing, cut into small portions (about 70g-100g each)
60ml olive oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
3 bay leaves
1 tsp spetseriko spice mix
1 tsp tomato paste (concentrated puree)
20ml (4 tsp) red wine vinegar
120ml sweet red wine, such as Mavrodaphne
1 thin sliver orange zest
1 small basil sprig, plus extra chopped to serve (optional)
250ml tomato pulp or passata (strained tomatoes)
250ml hot vegetable or meat stock or water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the pasta
500g bucatini (or any other pasta)
1-2 Tbsp olive oil
Grated Kefalotiri, pecorino or Parmesan
For the spetseriko spice mix
10 bay leaves
½ Tbsp chilli flakes
1 tsp fennel seeds
½ tsp cumin seeds
2 Tbsp sweet paprika
½ Tbsp spicy paprika
½ Tbsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground nutmeg
½ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp ground allspice
Method
First, make the spetseriko. Warm a clean, dry pan over a medium heat. Add the bay leaves, chilli flakes, fennel seeds and cumin to the pan and toss for 1-1½ minutes until lightly toasted and fragrant. Tip the toasted spices into a mortar and pestle or spice grinder and crush them to a fine powder. Mix in the ground spices and store in a sealed jar for up to 6 months.
Season the beef with salt and pepper and let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking.
Place a large shallow pot over a medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and, once hot, brown the meat on all sides. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a platter.
In the same pot, add another tablespoon of olive oil and saute the onions with a bit of salt until they turn light golden. Add in the garlic, bay leaves, and the spetseriko spice mix, stirring briefly. A few seconds later, add the tomato paste and stir gently. Return the browned meat to the pot, pour in the vinegar, and after a minute, pour in the wine. Allow the alcohol to evaporate for a couple of minutes, then pour in the tomato pulp and hot broth, and add in the orange zest and basil sprig. Reduce the heat to low, cover with a lid, and gently simmer for 50-60 minutes or until the meat is very tender and the sauce has thickened. Remove and discard the bay leaves, basil sprig and orange zest.
Cook the pasta according to the packet instructions. Drain and return the pasta to the pan, then add in a splash of olive oil and toss to coat.
Serve the beef with the sauce on top of the pasta, then sprinkle with some grated cheese and extra ground black pepper. If you like, scatter over a handful of chopped basil.