How Prada-Kolhapuri controversy exposes the continued exploitation of artisan communities

Indian Express

6 hours ago

(Written by Abhinandita N Kashyap)
What if something that your grandfather wore as footwear, costing Rs 500, turned up on an international luxury runway as a contemporary sandal, which is priced at more than Rs 1 lakh — with no mention of where it actually came from?
That's exactly what happened as Italian luxury fashion brand Prada recently listed a pair of flat leather sandals for about a lakh on their website. These sandals have a striking resemblance to India's age-old iconic Kolhapuris.
The development has sparked debates about cultural appropriation, the economic struggles of Indian artisan communities, and the limits of global intellectual property (IP) protections.
Kolhapuri chappals
Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted unisex leather sandals traditionally made by artisans in Maharashtra's Kolhapur district and parts of Karnataka. Believed to have originated centuries ago, these sandals are best known for their distinctive braided leather straps, intricate cutwork, durable construction and timeless craftsmanship.
Once adorned by royalty and later popularised across India for their rustic charm, Kolhapuris are not merely footwear. These sandals are a marker of regional identity and craftsmanship involving a manufacturing process that is entirely manual, involving vegetable-tanned leather and indigenous techniques passed down from generation to generation.
In 2019, after sustained advocacy by artisan groups and craft researchers, Kolhapuri chappals were granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag under India's Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
A GI tag helps protect products originating from a specific region, known for their unique features attributable to their geography, materials, and traditional know-how.
However, Kolhapuri artisans have continued to struggle with shrinking markets and competition from factory-made imitations. According to a report by The Voice of Fashion, there are currently an estimated 15,000-20,000 artisans involved in Kolhapuri chappal production, a sharp decline from previous decades.
Artisans told the magazine that while luxury fashion profits from their craft's cultural cachet, their own communities remain invisible, underpaid and excluded from global markets.
Prada's cultural appropriation
At the heart of the controversy lies the concept of cultural appropriation. Typically cultural appropriation refers to when elements of culture, particularly those of historically oppressed or colonised societies, are adopted by dominant groups without consent, attribution, or compensation.
In the world of fashion, this often translates to luxury brands borrowing indigenous motifs, crafts, and garments for profit.
Indian designers, fashion historians and cultural commentators pointed out that the design of Prada's sandals was unmistakably Kolhapuri in construction and aesthetic. To make things worse, the brand did not mention India, Kolhapur, or the craft's artisan legacy.
Another major contention for criticism was the price disparity. Prada is reportedly planning to sell the product for over Rs 1 lakh — Indian artisans sell a pair for under Rs 1,000.
Note that Prada is not the first brand to exploit indigenous artisans for their benefit. In 2015, Isabel Marant, a French designer, faced backlash in Mexico for selling a blouse identical to the traditional embroidery of the Mixe community in Oaxaca.
Christian Dior, in 2019, used designs resembling traditional Mexican horsewomen attire for its Cruise collection. In India, brands like Louis Vuitton have previously featured Banarasi motifs and Indian embroidery styles in collections without direct collaboration with artisan communities.
These controversies raise persistent questions about cultural equity, economic justice, and who profits from indigenous heritage in the global luxury market.
Limits of global IP protections
India's Geographical Indications Act (1999) protects products like Kolhapuris within Indian territory, preventing commercial use of the term 'Kolhapuri Chappal' by unauthorised producers. However, this protection fails to extend beyond India's borders.
Internationally, the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) is currently having discussions about protecting traditional cultural expressions and geographical indications. However, as of now, there is no binding international framework that prevents the aesthetic imitation of indigenous designs unless it involves trademark, copyright, or patent infringement.
And this very legal grey zone allows luxury brands to replicate indigenous designs, so long as they avoid using protected names or misleading branding.
That's why after the Prada-Kolhapuri controversy, there have been fresh calls for the Indian government to push for stronger international protections for GI-tagged products, and for luxury brands to adopt fair trade collaborations with artisan groups.
The significance
The outrage over Prada's move arrives amid a growing global conversation about decolonising fashion, ethical consumption, and the rights of indigenous artisans.
As the world increasingly prizes sustainable, handmade, and heritage products, ensuring that the benefits of such trends reach their original creators is no longer just a cultural concern, but a matter of economic justice.
The latest controversy is a window into the ongoing power imbalances in the global fashion industry and a reminder of how cultural heritage, when divorced from its communities, becomes another commodity for profit. For India, it signals the continuing need to safeguard not just the products of its artisan economy, but the dignity and livelihoods of those who create them.