Latest news with #Kolhapuris
Time of India
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Prada heels or Rajasthani juttis?: Netizens rage over luxury brand's latest launch
Image credits: X It seems the world's fascination with Indian history and culture is becoming more and more obvious to luxury brands, which are not only catering to the Indian audiences but also enriching Western fashion with touches of Indian ones. After the very viral and much-debated row over Kolhapuri-inspired sandals featured in Prada's Men's Spring/Summer 2026 show, luxury fashion brand Prada is under the netizens' lens once again. The brand recently released new Antiqued Leather Pumps that Indian netizens believe are strikingly similar to the traditional Rajasthani juttis. The design described as 'original and unconventional' seems similar to the traditional Indian footwear despite smart tweaks in the form of heels, pointed toes, visible stitching for the 'pre-worn' feel and leather. Similar to the previous incident, Prada has alluded to no connection or credit to the Indian craft, which it seems to have copied off. Netizens react to Prada's pre-worn heels Image credits: X People on the internet were quick to compare the Italian luxe label's design to that of the classic Rajasthani juttis. With Prada making no such clarifications, they have been blaming the brand for another row of copying. "Prada has done it again. After copying Kolhapuris, they have now taken Rajasthani leather juttis as is and added heels to them," wrote a person on X. by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like Find out: this is how you clean your yoga mat! Kingdom Of Men Undo "Prada releases 'antiqued leather pumps' similar to Punjabi juttis after row over Kolhapuris," added another, comparing the design to Punjabi juttis. "Not just Dior. Prada ripped both Kolhapuri Chappals and Punjabi Juttis," and "Funny how it's 'unconventional' when it's Prada, but 'ethnic' when it's us. The jutti walked so this heel could strut. Give credit, not just couture", added others. The heels resemble the Indian footwear with their leather use, visible stitching and even colour shades, thus sparking the online criticism. This instance, combined with the previous Kolhapuri sandals, has brought into the limelight the lack of accountability by luxury brands, where they avoid giving appropriate credit where it is due.
India Today
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- India Today
Prada turns devil again? Now, it's juttis after Kolhapuris
Italian fashion house Prada has found itself at the centre of controversy in India once time, it's not about Kolhapuris, the traditional GI-tagged footwear that the brand had blatantly referenced in an earlier Milan showcase, sparking a social media uproar. Prada eventually acknowledged the origins, even meeting artisans in Kolhapur to address the backlash. However, the internet is abuzz with photos of Prada's 'Antiqued Leather Pumps', drawing strong comparisons to Indian these pumps are available in several colours and designs on Prada's website, one particular pair bears an uncanny resemblance to traditional Indian juttis. 'Antiqued leather pumps' in cognac colour by Prada. Prada describes this pair made with calfskin as 'an original and unconventional design'.'The pointy-toe silhouette in antiqued leather has visible stitching and raw-cut edges intentionally left unfinished,' the description further reads. Though juttis are traditionally flat footwear, Prada's version comes with in Amritsar, who are involved in the Punjabi jutti trade, have expressed outrage over the matter.A local shopkeeper, Akash, said that they work tirelessly to sell Punjabi juttis and Kolhapuri chappals priced between Rs 400 and Rs 2,000.'Many artisans and shopkeepers rely on this work to support their families. But now, Prada is copying the Punjabi jutti and plans to sell it for lakhs of rupees, which is a severe blow to their cultural heritage. He added that the Indian government should take strict action on this issue,' he told India experts weigh inFootwear experts, meanwhile, say that while most of Prada's other antiqued leather pumps from this collection don't particularly evoke a jutti vibe, unlike the brand's earlier blatant rip-off of Kolhapuris, the aforementioned pair does appear inspired by Indian juttis, specifically resembling Rajasthani mojaris.'These women pumps are not exactly a copy, but they look definitely inspired by Indian juttis, such as the mojari from Rajasthan or the juttis from Punjab, in their toe shape and upper silhouette,' Rashmi Tomar, a footwear designer, tells India Today explains that while pointy-toe is a common design used in footwear, it is the upper silhouette that makes it appear like a jutti.'The upper pattern and silhouette that you see in this Prada pair features a turned and close-stitched seam, a significant element in mojaris,' Tomar, who did a project on mojaris in 2006, adds that previously men's juttis featured the turned pattern and Khanna, founder of footwear brand Artimen, meanwhile, says he liked the Prada pumps but didn't immediately see them as 'Indianised' and would associate them with Rajasthani juttis only to some is embroiled in the 'copycat' row mere weeks after it showcased Kolhapuris on an international ramp without acknowledging the iconic footwear's Indian roots. The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture (MACCIA) lodged a formal complaint, prompting the brand to give Kolhapuris their due credit, visit the city and also collaborate with Indian for the juttis row, the brand is yet to comment. But what's your take?- EndsMust Watch
Time of India
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Celebration of costume and couture: Know all about the rising culture of fashion trade exhibitions in India
India's fashion scene is known for its rich cultural heritage, elegance, variety, and vibrancy. This dynamic landscape, which reflects centuries of artistic expression, is now taking centre stage nationally, pushing the fashion industry into the spotlight through dynamic conventions and curated experiences. From ethnic wear to Western styles, high-street fashion to traditional salwar kameez, Indian fashion has undergone a dramatic transformation. The fashion fraternity has benefited from thousands of years of tradition, preserving the richness of each culture. From the 17th century to today, India's influence on Western fashion has been deep and layered, a story that's finally gaining the recognition and celebration it deserves. India's sartorial traditions, once mimicked in the court of Louis XVI and the couture salons of Jazz Age Paris, are now shaping global aesthetics through chic Kolhapuris and reinvented sarees though the credit is still long overdue. Having witnessed the British Raj and now living in the era of global brands, Indian fashion has evolved tremendously. From local markets to malls and shopping apps, we are now entering a new phase: fashion trade exhibitions, where homegrown labels and big names come together under one roof. by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like Top 15 Most Beautiful Women in the World Undo Image Credits: Pinterest) These exhibitions offer more than just shopping, they're a blend of culture, creativity, and commerce. They don't just showcase fashion as art in a museum, they give designers, both emerging and established, a chance to express their vision and grow their brand in real time. What is a fashion trade exhibition? A fashion trade exhibition is a curated event where businesses in the fashion industry present new collections and products to the public and potential buyers. These events allow big and small brands to expand their reach, build awareness, and form new customer relationships. Kareena Kapoor, Malaika Arora and Amrita Arora turn cheerleaders for Natasha Poonawalla for her appearance at the Met Gala 2022. Deets inside Typically held in large exhibition halls, these shows are carefully organised, from booth layout to management. Major Indian cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and Hyderabad already host some of the country's top fashion trade shows. For instance, Delhi recently hosted Trés Mehr, a beautifully curated fashion and lifestyle exhibition featuring leading names in jewellery, fashion, and design, all under one roof for a one-day celebration of elegance and immersive retail. Another event in Kolkata, focusing on Indian ethnic fashion and traditional attire is all set to be held in July at the Milan Mela, proving that these fashion trade exhibitions are a true platform for craftsmanship, elevating emerging design talents, and also fostering communities. How to choose the right trade show for you? With so much information available online, finding the right fashion trade exhibition is easier than ever, you just need to identify your interest. Ask yourself: Are you into handloom and artisanal wear? Do you love couture, or are you after fast-fashion western styles? Or maybe you're a jewellery and accessories lover? Whatever your vibe, don't be afraid to step out of your comfort zone. Explore new brands, rediscover known ones, and let yourself be inspired. Just remember to shop smart and enjoy the process. After all, by attending these exhibitions, you're not just shopping, you're helping shape the next chapter of India's fashion story.
Mint
20-07-2025
- Business
- Mint
Prada wore them. Kolhapur made them. Inside India's fight for a lost sole
Kolhapur/Mumbai: The mood in room number 46 of the Bombay High Court, a vaulted, brightly lit affair, was rather dark on 16 July. Chief justice Alok Aradhe and justice Sandeep Marne, who made up a two-judge bench of the court, were handling public interest litigation (PIL) filings that morning. And their patience seemed to be wearing thin. After summarily dealing with two PILs, they turned to a third one. 'What is this? Kolhapuri chappals? You want an injunction in a PIL?" asked one of the judges, grilling advocate Ganesh Hingmire, who had filed the petition. The case had been filed after Italian luxury fashion house Prada had showcased a pair of 'toe-ring" sandals on a Milanese runway in its Men's Spring/Summer 2026 collection last month. At the receiving end was an array of respondents: Prada S.p.A; its India arm; the Maharashtra government's department for social justice; and Lidcom, a public sector undertaking to promote the state's leather industry and support its artisans. Hingmire, a Pune-based expert on geographical indicators and intellectual property rights, wanted the high court to stop the sale of Kolhapuri sandals abroad. He also wanted an apology from Prada for violating the geographical indication tag protecting the chappals. Hingmire, along with a battery of lawyers, pointed to the history of western brands exploiting Indian heritage. 'The community is suffering from this cultural appropriation," he argued. 'These foreign companies like Prada will just continue (this cultural appropriation) with a word of appreciation." Across from Hingmire was celebrated senior advocate Ravi Kadam, who was representing Prada. The latter's defence was short and biting; he asked why Hingmire had filed a PIL at all, given that he did not own the rights of the Kolhapuri chappal. Besides, he said, Prada had never claimed the shoes on its runway were Kolhapuris. After some back-and-forth between the lawyers and the judges, the court dismissed the case, saying that there were clear legal mechanisms to settle geographical indication tag infringements, and that a PIL wasn't needed to protect the artisans of Kolhapur. Needless to say, the ruling did not leave Hingmire feeling ecstatic. 'Will assess and may go to SC (Supreme Court)," he texted one of the writers of this story. 'I have tried my level best in the interest of our nation. Our intention is pure and clean." The ruling also caused some disappointment 400 km away, in Kolhapur, the birthplace of the eponymous sandals. The court case and the interest it had aroused in the district's most famous export, had given the 100,000-strong community engaged in the business of making the slippers there hope that their flagging business would get a shot in the arm. Kolhapuri chappals are a miniscule part of the country's total footwear exports. And, they're declining. In 2024-25, India exported over ₹21,000 crore of footwear and related goods; of that, Kolhapuris made up just ₹1.3 crore. Thanks to the catwalk in Milan and the court case in Mumbai, Kolhapuri chappals are now enjoying a rare moment of global glory. But, just how did these humble chappals become India's most recognisable traditional footwear, and what is holding the trade back? Mint visited Kolhapur and spoke to artisan families there, as well as designers in Mumbai, to piece together the story of the Kolhapuris. Designer limelight Most of India's shoes, including Kolhapuri chappals, are sold in small, local shops even today. But, in the last decade, independent designer brands have begun to experiment with traditional Indian footwear and sell them at a mass-premium and higher prices. Much of that action has happened in the business of juttis and mojris, close-toed flats native to Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan and parts of Gujarat. Delhi-based Fizzy Goblet and Needledust are among India's best known jutti brands. They posted annual revenue of ₹33.1 crore and ₹15.2 crore, respectively, in 2023-24, per research agency Tracxn. Today, these brands and other mass-market labels, such as Bata and Metro, have begun selling 'designer' Kolhapuri chappals. But, there are few designers dedicated to working with Kolhapuri and similar 'toe-ring' chappals. One such brand is by Mumbai-based designer Aprajita Toor, who started her studio in Chembur a decade ago, inspired by her mother's penchant for the chappals. 'The Kolhapuri chappal is a liberating design," she told Mint. 'In an orthopaedic sense, it is an open shoe and not contained. If you think about it, the original chappal was so thoughtfully made. It is a visionary design," says Toor. Her eponymous label is best known for innovative versions of the sandals, including those with pencil and wedge heels, strong pastel contrasts, and contemporary patterns adorning the classic T-strap. Toor's offerings are largely for the premium domestic consumer, with a basic pair starting at ₹4,500. For designers, however, the biggest challenge in inventing new forms of Kolhapuri chappals is material. 'The leather the artisans use is buff (buffalo) leather, which is not easy to work with," Toor said. 'It is also not easy to wear. But it is what defines these chappals." Toor has experimented with newer materials such as memory foam cushioning and softer Napa leather to make her shoes more comfortable. Another Mumbai-based shoe label, Tiesta, best-known for elaborate 'bridal' sneakers, also found a niche in innovative Kolhapuris. 'Growing up, wearing heels was the standard (for women)," Janvi Jogatar, designer and co-founder of Tiesta, told Mint. 'But Kolhapuris are not just fashion. The toe ring in the sandal separates the big toe from the rest of the foot, making it much more comfortable (than closed-toe shoes)." However, Jogatar ran into the same problem that her fellow designers did—the traditional Kolhapuri, although beautiful, is not always easy on the feet. Jogatar launched Tiesta's 'Kolas' collection in 2019, switching out the regular buff leather for a vegan alternative that is cheaper, easier to work with, and softer on the feet. The company also added a small innovation: changeable T-straps with different designs so that customers could keep changing the look of their pair. Tiesta priced these at around ₹3,000 a pair for changeable flats and ₹6,500 for changeable heels, even adding a few 'Baby Kolas' for kids. They're a fast mover, but haven't beaten Tiesta's signature bridal sneakers. Despite their popularity across India, the market for Kolhapuri chappals has remained largely unorganized and outside of the purview of India's biggest fashion designers. Those who do sell designer Kolhapuris often manufacture in Mumbai or elsewhere outside the Kolhapur and Belagavi districts. Two public sector undertakings—Lidcom in Maharashtra and Lidkar in Karnataka—were set up in the 1970s to train Kolhapuri chappal artisans and retail their products. Their financial filings are not publicly available on their websites; instead, visitors are greeted with placeholder text. A community creation At ease in his home in Kolhapur, Shashikant Tulsidas Vhatkar, 56, told Mint about how generations of his family and others in the district have dedicated themselves to the iconic chappals. Making the Kolhapuri chappal is a community business, with each member of the family contributing to the end product. The women stitch thin strips of leather into the braid connecting the sandal's T-strap to the toe ring. The men polish and shape the shoes from the leather hides. It's how the craft has been kept alive by generations since medieval times, when the chappal is first said to have been created in the neighbouring districts of Kolhapur and Belagavi. Over time, locals developed variants of the chappals, each named after the village that designed them. By the 18th century, local satraps had taken to the Kolhapuri chappal, along with prominent rulers like Shahu Maharaj, and tanneries flourished in the area, boosting production. For old timers such as Vhatkar, making Kolhapuris is an art, and even reverence—he refused to sit on the heaps of buffalo leather. 'I cannot. This is our mother," he said. Among the prized leather hides is a six feet high, chrome-yellow piece that Vhatkar holds up in a dank, sweaty room. Traditionally, this buffalo hide is dyed with vegetable extracts. Typically, the artisans of Kolhapur use all kinds of leather to make chappals across price points. But over time, they have turned to softer, lower quality leather to make footwear for the mass market. Chappals made from these cheaper materials retail for ₹300-400 while those made with traditional leather and stitching techniques start at ₹2,000-3,000 a pair. Most of these artisans belong to a few castes, traditionally discriminated against in the social hierarchy. Apart from the burden of caste discrimination, they are also struggling with a ban on cow slaughter in Maharashtra. Without the traditional means of securing cow and buffalo hides, used by leather workers to make shoes and other goods for centuries, the cost of sourcing materials for Kolhapuri chappals has gone up. Apart from cheaper leather from Chennai and Kanpur, traditional Kolhapuri artisans are experimenting with artificial leather too. In a corner of his courtyard, Vhatkar also stores heaps of a thin leather parchment sourced all the way from Chennai. These are cheaper, and pale coloured, meant for the eminently wearable and affordable Kolhapuri chappals one finds street shopping in India. Usually, these are dyed chemically, and the bells and whistles of the Kolhapuri style are pasted on, rather than stitched. Vhatkar alone buys 10-15 tonnes of leather from Chennai every month, and hands it over to shoemakers in his area. He invests ₹25 lakh in the business annually, and has a turnover of ₹1 crore. However, Vhatkar insists, it is the artisans who take home all the money and leave him with little. Kolhapur's shoemakers, however, say they earn just about ₹25,000 a month, on average. One family can produce about 100 pairs of cheap chappals that don't require hand stitching in one week, but can make only 20 of the pricier variety in that time. This is a difficult trade to scale up, the artisans say. A whiff of oxygen Since news of the Milan catwalk controversy broke, Prada has become a buzzword all over Kolhapur. Sambhaji Shivaji Powar, a Kolhapuri chappal maker from Kale village near Kolhapur city, says the Italian brand has sparked a kind of renaissance for the traditional sandals. 'We got to know that Prada was using Kolhapuri shoes when everyone spoke about it in the market," he told Mint. 'Our customers come from all over the world but we never get the credit for it." One such customer, for instance, found the shoes Powar's wife Shobha makes on an Instagram page run by his son. He bought two pairs for ₹8,000, a handsome sum. But, the man later told Powar he was selling them to a customer in Australia. 'He would have sold it for a higher price but the maker goes unnoticed," he adds. Designer Toor also says she has international customers for her Kolhapuri inspired sandals, including buyers in Chile. But, she added, the controversy with Prada has had no impact on her sales. 'I think the current rise in interest in Kolhapuri chappals is a fleeting trend," she said. 'For mass-priced brands, there may be a bump in sales." Some artisans in Kolhapur agree with Toor. 'The hype is temporary and in a few days, everyone will forget," 40-year-old Mahesh Suhas Kamble told Mint. He is part of the fourth generation in his family in the traditional trade. Anurag Chandrakant Kokitkar, 33, also worries that the 'Prada' impact will fade away as just another hashtag. He is hoping that thanks to the fight with Prada, there will finally be a serious push to upgrade the chappal trade. In 2013, Kokitkar had set up a manufacturing unit called Paytaan (slang for Kolhapuri slipper), but shut it down during the pandemic. Appropriation debate Together, artisans and traders like Vhatkar make up a community of roughly 100,000 professionals living and working in the villages and towns of Kolhapur district. This is the community that advocate Hingmire says needs to be helped, despite the protections that India's geographical indication tag provides to the product. Legally, only a sandal made in the toe-ring style in the districts of Kolhapur (Maharashtra) and Belagavi (Karnataka) can be called 'Kolhapuri chappals'. But, he told Mint, foreign brands routinely get away with appropriating India's traditional handicrafts without so much as an acknowledgement, let alone compensation. Some are now trying to address these allegations of cultural appropriation. Last week, employees of Prada S.p.A visited Mumbai and Kolhapur to meet artisans and leaders of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry, and Agriculture (MCCIA). They promised to work with the Kolhapuri artisans on future designs. 'We want to bring in a revenue sharing model, get them to purchase from our artists. Prada has added glamour to our work," Lalit Gandhi, president of the MCCIA, told Mint. 'We need to build on that." Gandhi also said he is working with other Indian sourcing firms. Among those interested in sourcing authentic Kolhapuris for markets abroad is Asmara Group, an Indian apparel multinational. Asmara wrote to the MCCIA evincing 'interest" in the sandals. Among Asmara's buyers are American retailers Urban Outfitters, Abercrombie & Fitch, and Free People. Mint could not independently verify the claim. Prada did not respond to Mint's request for a comment, nor did Asmara Group. There is scepticism regarding what Prada and other fashion powerhouses can really do for the Kolhapuri chappals. After all, homegrown designers and exporters, too, have had no lasting impact on the way the chappals are made and sold. The Prada controversy has, however, reignited an old debate on what constitutes cultural appropriation. Some designers, such as Tiesta's Jogatar, believe Prada missed an opportunity to work with local designers and artisans and lend credibility to its collection. Others, including Toor, disagree. 'Designers around the world have drawn inspiration from Indian art and handicrafts like ikat, kalamkari, and bandhani for years," she said. 'The idea of cultural appropriation or giving credit to someone is a very subjective issue. It is all about a brand's ethos. But drawing inspiration is at the heart of design. At the end of the day, I am just happy that the rich tradition of the Kolhapuri chappal is on the global stage. That, too, with a big name like Prada."
News18
18-07-2025
- Entertainment
- News18
When Global Luxury Looks To India, Homegrown Brands Set The Tone
Last Updated: As global luxury looks to India, it's homegrown brands that are setting the pace with authenticity, heritage, and modern vision. Global luxury is no longer merely inspired by India – it's embracing it with open arms. From Dior's grand Mumbai runway and Prada's Kolhapuri-style sandals to Bulgari's Mangalsutra line and Louis Vuitton's Deepika Padukone-led campaigns, Indian heritage, craftsmanship, and cultural icons are no longer side notes, they're the main attraction. Yet, while international houses are borrowing liberally from Indian aesthetics, it's India's own homegrown labels that are redefining the narrative – authentic, rooted, and unapologetically visionary. As Indian artisanship finally takes center stage and celebrities become global fashion ambassadors, India isn't just influencing luxury anymore. India is luxury. Homegrown Heroes: The True Tastemakers While global brands reinterpret India through a Western lens, Indian designers are shaping a movement from within infusing modernity into tradition, and storytelling into style. These labels aren't just riding the trend; they're defining it. Crafting sarees that feel like heirlooms with a modern edge, Teejh blends regal silhouettes with everyday wearability. Their festive drapes are an ode to Indian femininity—fluid, fierce, and timeless. Co-founder Maya Varma shares, 'When global luxury looks to India for inspiration, it's a reminder of the quiet power our traditions hold. Prada turning to Kolhapuris, Louis Vuitton drawing from auto-rickshaws, Dior's Mumbai runway—this isn't a trend. It's a cultural shift. India is no longer the moodboard; it's the moment. At Teejh, we don't see the saree as just traditional wear, it's a global silhouette. It's not about Westernizing it, but about the world discovering how versatile it already is." Aabharnam Foundation More than just a fashion label, Aabharnam is a purpose-driven movement. Focused on reviving the ancient craft of Banarasi weaves and supporting tie-dye traditions native to Gujarat and Rajasthan, the brand weaves sustainability, heritage, and social upliftment into every thread. Saundh Saundh captures the soul of Indian craftsmanship and dresses it in contemporary silhouettes. Their boho-ethnic collections—marked by modern cuts, relaxed fits, and artisanal prints—bring Indian elegance to a global, comfort-first wardrobe. trueBrowns At the intersection of nostalgia and new-age design, trueBrowns stands for minimalist Indian wear. Their fluid, fuss-free silhouettes in airy fabrics evoke timeless drapes reimagined for the urban woman—elegant, understated, and versatile. Hiranya Built on the values of slow fashion, Hiranya works with ethically sourced handlooms and artisan-led processes. Every piece is a canvas of tradition, sustainably crafted and consciously styled for the modern wearer. top videos View all These brands aren't mimicking the global gaze—they're crafting their own. As luxury's spotlight shifts to India, these homegrown labels are showing the world that the future of fashion may well lie in our roots. They don't just borrow motifs—they live the legacy. They don't chase trends—they create culture. Because when luxury turns its eyes to India, it's these authentic, ground-up voices that lead the way. About the Author Lifestyle Desk Our life needs a bit of style to get the perfect zing in the daily routine. News18 Lifestyle is one-stop destination for everything you need to know about the world of fashion, food, health, travel, More The News18 Lifestyle section brings you the latest on health, fashion, travel, food, and culture — with wellness tips, celebrity style, travel inspiration, and recipes. Also Download the News18 App to stay updated! view comments Location : New Delhi, India, India First Published: July 17, 2025, 10:18 IST News lifestyle When Global Luxury Looks To India, Homegrown Brands Set The Tone Disclaimer: Comments reflect users' views, not News18's. Please keep discussions respectful and constructive. Abusive, defamatory, or illegal comments will be removed. News18 may disable any comment at its discretion. By posting, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.
