Pampering your palate: spicing up with Andhra cuisine in Hyderabad

The Hindu

20 hours ago

Byline: B. Sai Nikita
The flavourful spirit of Andhra cuisine is simmering on low flame in a city long dominated by the regal layers of Hyderabadi dum biryani. From Guntur-style masala blends to the coastal delicacies of Andhra Pradesh, a wave of Andhra restaurants are capturing the palates of Hyderabadis.
Manager of the KPHB branch of Military Rajanna Hotel Teja has seen this shift up close. Starting with one outlet two years ago, the hotel now has four branches across the city. 'People come here for food that reminds them of Nellore, Guntur, and Vijayawada tastes,' he says. The hotel's menu features regional favourites like Hoskote donne biryani made with chitti muthyalu rice and Guntur biryani, a masala-rich contrast to the layered Hyderabadi version. 'Andhra food never changes. The taste is in our blood,' he explains.
This sentiment is echoed across the city. Sundeep Gunturu, a former software engineer and now an eatery owner, assures that these eateries are not just playing the nostalgia card. He founded Naidu Gari Kunda Biryani during the pandemic, his take on Andhra-style kacchi dum biryani with ghee-laced chicken served in a clay pot has become a hit. 'For ten years it was butter chicken and naan everywhere. Now people are ready to explore their roots,' he notes. His Gachibowli outlet is transforming into a full Andhra coastal kitchen with experimental dishes like jackfruit biryani, tiger prawn specials and more.
In Moosapet, Sattibabu Biryani by Raviteja, started by a food blogger turned restaurateur, emerged from eight months of street-level trials. 'We shared over 4,000 sample plates to truck drivers, guards, and delivery workers to perfect the flavour,' he says. 'I personally drove 800 km to different places to understand biryani better. Our biryani won't leave your hands oily or your stomach upset.' It is word-of-mouth, more than influencer charm, that drove his restaurant to its current viral status.
This appeal isn't just limited to biryani. General manager of Krishna Godavari Flavours Dhananjay Rao curates dishes from across the Krishna and Godavari belt, where a strong example of coastal influence is seen. 'Our tawa vanjaram and Madeenaguda mamsam pulao are unique,' he says. 'People come asking for specific dishes. We try to match that memory.'
Then there's Bhimavaram Bhojanalu, where software engineer Balamurali Krishna turned a humble street food stall into a buzzing hotspot for Andhra meals. 'I serve food close to mom's heart,' he says. With 25-item combos and four kinds of rice, the restaurant attracts both bachelors and families. His USP is quality over gimmicks. 'People can eat biryani once. But they come to my place twice a day.'
Despite some scepticism surrounding food blogging and its fleeting trends, everyone acknowledges that social media plays a role when it comes to visibility. 'It feels better to hear 'my friend told me' than 'I saw it on Instagram',' says Dhananjay.
4 a.m. biryani runs
Some trends do end up finding a lasting place in the city's foodscape, like Hyderabad's now iconic 4 a.m. biryani. Serving as a haven for hunger, biryani is becoming an early morning tradition for bachelors, techies, friend groups, and food lovers. With steaming plates from spots like Shanta's 4 AM Biryani and Srikant's Hoskote Donne Biryani, people line up before dawn. 'It's a fun experience for the taste buds; these kinds of places really enrich your experience of city living,' shares Rahul, a frequent early-morning biryani indulger.
While trends may come and go, the roots of Andhra cuisine in its bold spices and the comforting essence of one's culture is here to stay. Whether it's a homely kodi kura, tangy gongura pachadi, or an early morning plate of biryani, the region's food continues to carve its own niche into Hyderabad's food scene, rekindling a sense of familiarity, nostalgia, and flavours.