A Modern French Bistro Based On Tradition

Forbes

04-06-2025

Striped Bass with fennel cream, Bistro Monadnock
Photo ©Tom Hyland
I've always associated a bistro with comfort food. Now that may not sound exciting, but when a chef transforms this type of cuisine into something special, that's an experience I don't want to miss. Lately, a number of bistros have presented dishes that are anything but ordinary, yet seem over the top, as if they proprietors wanted to shout about how special their food is; often this approach backfires, as they believe typical offerings of a bistro aren't enough to excite anyone. On the other hand, Bistro Monadnock in Chicago offers all the classic traditions of a bistro done in a highly creative and delicious manner.
Located on the ground floor of the historic Monadnock building (built in 1891) in the city's South Loop, Bistro Monadnock is operated by three partners of UNA Hospitality; this is their first restaurant, and it is an excellent opening flourish. Much of the praise is due to Chef Johnny Besch, a Chicago native who has been cooking for decades; his most recent work before the bistro was as Executive Chef at BLVD, a steakhouse in Chicago's West Loop.
Open for lunch and dinner - as well as Saturday brunch - the starters are classics, including Onion Soup, Frites, Oysters on the Half Shell, Steak Tartare and a beautiful charcuterie board. A standout here is the Grilled Cucumber Salad, with mint, farro and English peas. There is a great mixture of flavors and texture with this dish, thanks to the addition of honey yogurt; when I asked Besch about this ingredient, he explained that the yogurt from his dairy farmer along with the honey added the sweetness and richness his original preparation was missing. It's an excellent, slightly surprising salad that is delicious - don't miss it!
Of course, no bistro would be complete without a hamburger, and Besch has crafted a highly distinctive one, a blend of 80/20 of Allen Brothers prime, dry-aged sirloin and house-made cultured butter; this blend is ground daily. This Bistro Burger, as it's referred to on the menu, has the character of a more expensive piece of beef, and at $18 (served on a brioche bun with red onion relish, dijonnaise and gruyere), it's a fine value. Burgers don't get much better than this!
Another gem is the Parisian Gnocchi, a richly flavored pasta of striking complexity. While the origins of gnocchi date back to ancient Rome, Besch brings a modern angle to this dish; he states that he 'uses this dish as a vehicle for different seasonal ingredients.' The version I enjoyed in May incorporated morel mushrooms, fava beans, English peas, garlic and leek confit. Besch's culinary talents are clearly on display with this mouthfilling dish.
Spring Rabbit, Bistro Monadnock, Chicago
Photo ©Tom Hyland
Other entrées include Steak Frites, Cornish Hen and Skate Wing; I opted for the Spring Rabbit. The rabbit meat is very tender (not always the case with rabbit), while Boudin Blanc, a French white sausage, in this case, equal parts rabbit, chicken and pork, adds a bit of spice and tang to this dish, which is beautifully presented with a shiitake mushroom and baby vegetables; this was the highlight of my dinner on my first visit.
The wine program has been well thought out, with a little more than 60 bottle selections, primarily from the most famous French wine regions; you'll find a few classified Bordeaux growths that are at the upper tier of pricing ($240 and up), along with selections of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion for just over $100. There are a dozen or so Burgundy offerings, mostly priced quite affordably, along with an excellent grouping of white and red Rhone valley wines, including a Côte-Rotie 'Brune et Blonde' 2020 from E. Guigal (one of France's greatest producers) at a fairly priced $168 a bottle. I selected a Beaujolais - in my opinion the perfect bistro red wine - from an artisan producer named Grégorie Hoppenot; this Fleurie was an inspired match for the rabbit and is an excellent offering at $64.
Champagnes are a mix of well-known and lesser-known producers, and the glass pour list is well done; the Cremant de Loire Brut from Moncontour at $13 a glass is a steal. In fact the entire glass pour selection represents terrific value, as every wine but one is priced at less than $20, with many coming in between $12 and $18. That's what I expect at a bistro; compliments to the partners for resisting the urge to overcharge for their glass pours, as is too often seen these days.
Service is first-rate and highly professional; the servers know the menu well and have just the right touch, being able to recommend the style of dishes a customer is seeking; they do this without pressuring diners. Service at the bar adjacent to the dining room is very friendly; this area is often packed in the late afternoon with business people just after work; the atmosphere here is relaxed and fun.
I asked chef Besch what he wants his customers to enjoy most about their encounter at Bistro Monadnock; his reply is as engaging as his cuisine. "Long-lasting, memorable experiences are one of the hardest things to do. Most guests want to have a dialogue with the operators of the establishments they frequent, but too often, for whatever reason, hospitality and dialogue do not come across easily.
'This is why I spend as much time in the dining rooms as possible. You have to 'read the room' and care a lot! Everything matters.'
Bistro Monandnock
325 S. Federal Street, Chicago, IL