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Forbes
04-06-2025
- Business
- Forbes
A Modern French Bistro Based On Tradition
Striped Bass with fennel cream, Bistro Monadnock Photo ©Tom Hyland I've always associated a bistro with comfort food. Now that may not sound exciting, but when a chef transforms this type of cuisine into something special, that's an experience I don't want to miss. Lately, a number of bistros have presented dishes that are anything but ordinary, yet seem over the top, as if they proprietors wanted to shout about how special their food is; often this approach backfires, as they believe typical offerings of a bistro aren't enough to excite anyone. On the other hand, Bistro Monadnock in Chicago offers all the classic traditions of a bistro done in a highly creative and delicious manner. Located on the ground floor of the historic Monadnock building (built in 1891) in the city's South Loop, Bistro Monadnock is operated by three partners of UNA Hospitality; this is their first restaurant, and it is an excellent opening flourish. Much of the praise is due to Chef Johnny Besch, a Chicago native who has been cooking for decades; his most recent work before the bistro was as Executive Chef at BLVD, a steakhouse in Chicago's West Loop. Open for lunch and dinner - as well as Saturday brunch - the starters are classics, including Onion Soup, Frites, Oysters on the Half Shell, Steak Tartare and a beautiful charcuterie board. A standout here is the Grilled Cucumber Salad, with mint, farro and English peas. There is a great mixture of flavors and texture with this dish, thanks to the addition of honey yogurt; when I asked Besch about this ingredient, he explained that the yogurt from his dairy farmer along with the honey added the sweetness and richness his original preparation was missing. It's an excellent, slightly surprising salad that is delicious - don't miss it! Of course, no bistro would be complete without a hamburger, and Besch has crafted a highly distinctive one, a blend of 80/20 of Allen Brothers prime, dry-aged sirloin and house-made cultured butter; this blend is ground daily. This Bistro Burger, as it's referred to on the menu, has the character of a more expensive piece of beef, and at $18 (served on a brioche bun with red onion relish, dijonnaise and gruyere), it's a fine value. Burgers don't get much better than this! Another gem is the Parisian Gnocchi, a richly flavored pasta of striking complexity. While the origins of gnocchi date back to ancient Rome, Besch brings a modern angle to this dish; he states that he 'uses this dish as a vehicle for different seasonal ingredients.' The version I enjoyed in May incorporated morel mushrooms, fava beans, English peas, garlic and leek confit. Besch's culinary talents are clearly on display with this mouthfilling dish. Spring Rabbit, Bistro Monadnock, Chicago Photo ©Tom Hyland Other entrées include Steak Frites, Cornish Hen and Skate Wing; I opted for the Spring Rabbit. The rabbit meat is very tender (not always the case with rabbit), while Boudin Blanc, a French white sausage, in this case, equal parts rabbit, chicken and pork, adds a bit of spice and tang to this dish, which is beautifully presented with a shiitake mushroom and baby vegetables; this was the highlight of my dinner on my first visit. The wine program has been well thought out, with a little more than 60 bottle selections, primarily from the most famous French wine regions; you'll find a few classified Bordeaux growths that are at the upper tier of pricing ($240 and up), along with selections of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion for just over $100. There are a dozen or so Burgundy offerings, mostly priced quite affordably, along with an excellent grouping of white and red Rhone valley wines, including a Côte-Rotie 'Brune et Blonde' 2020 from E. Guigal (one of France's greatest producers) at a fairly priced $168 a bottle. I selected a Beaujolais - in my opinion the perfect bistro red wine - from an artisan producer named Grégorie Hoppenot; this Fleurie was an inspired match for the rabbit and is an excellent offering at $64. Champagnes are a mix of well-known and lesser-known producers, and the glass pour list is well done; the Cremant de Loire Brut from Moncontour at $13 a glass is a steal. In fact the entire glass pour selection represents terrific value, as every wine but one is priced at less than $20, with many coming in between $12 and $18. That's what I expect at a bistro; compliments to the partners for resisting the urge to overcharge for their glass pours, as is too often seen these days. Service is first-rate and highly professional; the servers know the menu well and have just the right touch, being able to recommend the style of dishes a customer is seeking; they do this without pressuring diners. Service at the bar adjacent to the dining room is very friendly; this area is often packed in the late afternoon with business people just after work; the atmosphere here is relaxed and fun. I asked chef Besch what he wants his customers to enjoy most about their encounter at Bistro Monadnock; his reply is as engaging as his cuisine. "Long-lasting, memorable experiences are one of the hardest things to do. Most guests want to have a dialogue with the operators of the establishments they frequent, but too often, for whatever reason, hospitality and dialogue do not come across easily. 'This is why I spend as much time in the dining rooms as possible. You have to 'read the room' and care a lot! Everything matters.' Bistro Monandnock 325 S. Federal Street, Chicago, IL
Web Release
07-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Web Release
Indulge in Gastronomic Excellence with The Restaurant at Address Sky View's new French-Inspired Menu
Entertainment Web Release Selection By Editor_wr On Apr 7, 2025 Epicures, culinary enthusiasts, and foodies alike have even more reason to visit The Restaurant at Address Sky View as it unveils an exquisite addition to its culinary offerings. Set against the refined backdrop of beautifully designed dining spaces, this inviting locale has revamped its menu, introducing a tempting selection of French classics that are sure to tantalise the taste buds. This new experience aims to capture the sophistication and flavour of France, offering diners a chance to savour the timeless appeal of its celebrated gastronomy. Bringing the essence of France to the heart of Dubai, The Restaurant's latest culinary evolution highlights the country's renowned dedication to gastronomy. French cuisine is synonymous with meticulous preparation, rich flavours, and a deep-rooted culinary heritage that has captivated food lovers worldwide. The newly curated menu embodies this legacy, blending traditional techniques with a contemporary twist to offer an elevated dining experience. Diners can begin their journey with a selection of refined French appetisers, such as the Foie Gras Terrine, perfectly complemented by caramelised figs and toasted baguette, or the Escargot de Bourgogne, a delicacy of six shell-baked snails enveloped in a fragrant garlic and parsley herb butter. The Steak Tartare, hand-cut Australian beef with mustard dressing and crispy chips, offers a bold yet classic interpretation of this much-loved dish. The menu also showcases standout dishes such as the Mushroom Velouté, a rich and velvety soup with delicate earthy flavours, and a half-dozen or dozen Oysters Gillardeau No.2, prized for their refined, meaty consistency and complex, lingering flavour. For mains, guests can savour expertly prepared options like the Dover Sole, oven-baked and paired with glazed seasonal vegetables and a luscious lemon butter emulsion, or the Corn-Fed Chicken, pan-seared to perfection and served with porcini purée, sautéed mushrooms, and roasting thyme jus. For a hearty twist, guests can indulge in the Truffle Croque Monsieur, a luxurious take on the traditional French sandwich, featuring sourdough bread layered with veal ham, black truffle, and Comté cheese, finished with béchamel and served alongside truffle fries. No French dining experience would be complete without an irresistible selection of desserts, including the Paris Brest, a beautifully crafted choux pastry filled with homemade hazelnut praline, caramelised hazelnuts, and rich hazelnut paste, or delight in the Vanilla Crème Brûlée, a timeless classic featuring Madagascar vanilla custard topped with a perfectly caramelised sugar crust. For those who appreciate artisanal confections, the Classic Madeleines & Cannelés offer a taste of traditional French baking at its finest. Located on the lobby level of Address Sky View, The Restaurant delivers an unparalleled gourmet partonomy experience on every occasion. Featuring an elegant atmosphere inspired by the warmth of a home, guests can dine across distinct spaces such as the Living Room, Dining Room, Library, Patio, and Veranda. Beyond its impeccable service and luxurious ambience, The Restaurant is also committed to sustainability, integrating AI-driven food waste reduction techniques and supporting local food donation charities. The Restaurant at Address Sky View invites guests to immerse themselves in the refined elegance of French cuisine as this new culinary experience promises to take diners on an unforgettable gastronomic journey. Opening Hours: Weekdays: Breakfast: 7:00 AM – 11:00 AM Lunch: 12:00 PM – 3:00 PM Dinner: 6:00 PM – 11:00 PM Weekends: Breakfast: 7:00 AM – 11:30 AM Lunch: 12:30 PM – 3:30 PM Dinner: 6:00 PM – 11:00 PM *For bookings and more information, please call +9714 873 8888 or email [email protected] Comments are closed.
