Naturally coloured cotton revival hit by funding crunch, low yields

Economic Times

3 days ago

India's naturally coloured cotton, which thrived commercially in the 1940s, is struggling to stage a comeback despite rising global demand for sustainable textiles and decades of government's efforts in research. The specialty crop is currently grown on just 200 acres across Karnataka, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh, fetching Rs 240 per kg, 50 per cent more than regular cotton at Rs 160 per kg. However, farmers are hesitant to expand cultivation due to significantly lower yields. "The productivity of light brown cotton is very low at 1.5-2 quintals per acre, compared to 6-7 quintals per acre for normal cotton. This discourages farmers from expanding the area under this crop," Ashok Kumar, Principal Scientist at ICAR-Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology (CIRCOT), told PTI.
Annual production from these limited acres stands at merely 330 quintals, underscoring the challenge facing this specialty crop that could potentially transform India's textile sustainability profile.
ICAR-CIRCOT is currently focusing on light brown coloured cotton.
Coloured cotton has ancient roots in Indian agriculture, with cultivation dating back to 2500 BC. Before independence, red, khaki and brown varieties of Cocanada 1 and 2 were grown commercially in Rayalseema, Andhra Pradesh, with exports to Japan. Traditional varieties were also cultivated in Assam and Karnataka's Kumta region. However, the Green Revolution's emphasis on high-yielding white cotton varieties pushed coloured cotton to the sidelines. The crop's inherent limitations - fewer bolls, lower weight, poor fibre strength, short staple length and colour variations - made it economically unviable for large-scale cultivation. Indian agricultural institutions have developed improved varieties, including DDCC-1, DDB-12, DMB-225, and DGC-78 by the University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad. The Central Institute for Cotton Research, Nagpur, created Vaidehi-95, considered the most prominent among 4-5 available varieties. Between 2015-19, ICAR-CIRCOT processed 17 quintals in demonstration batches, producing 9,000 metres of fabric, over 2,000 jackets and 3,000 handkerchiefs, proving commercial viability.
The environmental benefits are significant. Traditional cotton dyeing requires approximately 150 litres of water per metre of fabric, while naturally coloured cotton eliminates this requirement, potentially reducing toxic waste disposal costs by up to 50 per cent. "Naturally coloured cotton has huge export potential. More government support is required to enhance production and value addition," Kumar said.
Despite premium pricing and environmental advantages, expansion faces hurdles including lack of seed systems, pest vulnerability, and high pesticide requirements typical of cotton cultivation. "Nobody develops varieties as production is low and the market is not visible. Even textile mills are not ready to procure small quantities," Kumar explained.
The global market shows promise with growing demand from environmentally conscious brands, particularly in Europe, USA and Japan. Australia and China are investing heavily in research using traditional breeding and genetic engineering.
For commercial viability, coordinated efforts are needed across the value chain ' from developing farmer-friendly varieties to creating processing infrastructure and establishing market linkages with textile manufacturers committed to sustainable practices.