Nine of the best places to visit on the Amalfi coast
With terraced lemon groves on one side and drops to sparkling bays and stacked villages on the other, there's no doubting the sheer gorgeousness of the Costiera Amalfitana — nor its romantic aspect. I got married in Positano, so take it from me that this 50km stretch positively oozes love. The downside of all this loveliness are the crowds, so visit off season when towns thin out and accommodation prices plummet. Top tip? Avoid driving: the squiggly coastal road is a nightmare year-round. Fancy a hike? When the sun is gentler, get away from it all with an unforgettable yomp along the Path of the Lemons or the panoramic Path of the Gods.
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Don't dismiss Amalfi simply because it's wildly popular — the town is beautiful for a reason, and best seen pre-Easter or late autumn if you're looking to avoid the crowds. Wedged between the sea and the mountains, the old town is a tangle of high-sided streets and alleys, where, despite an overkill of tacky ceramic souvenir shops, atmosphere is found in the Arab-Norman duomo (cathedral). At the main square's Pasticceria Pansa Amalfi, Amalfi lemons are reimagined into candied rind, sticky delizia al limone cakes and citrussy pastries. Heading north, the Museo della Carta recounts the 800-year-old history of local paper-making.
Cut into the cliffs, Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel is arguably the serenest stay in town. Bedrooms are inside former monks's cells and all have dreamy sea views and original vaulting while the bougainvillea-draped Monk's Walk — where the former monks residing at Il Convento enjoyed meditative walks, is home to a Pace e Bene contemplative stroll guided by Fr Marcus, and the top-notch spa provides soothing signature massages.
Explore Amalfi town alongside Capri, Ravello and Positano on a eight-day guided group tour with Exodus. Its Highlights of the Amalfi Coast adventure also includes a trip along the Path of the Gods.
Despite its limelight moment in the Netflix series Ripley, Amalfi's neighbouring Atrani still manages to exude low-key charm. Spend time exploring the tightly knit lanes, staircases and passageways of the old town, pausing at San Salvatore de' Birecto (where Amalfi's doges were once crowned), finishing with a stop at majolica-domed Santa Maria Maddalena for sparkling panoramic views. Nearby Piazza Umberto is a lovely spot for a coffee and a granita di limone.
Channel Marge Sherwood and idle your time away on Alfieri Rooms's sea facing terrace. With tiled floors, pared-back decor, a small kitchen and the beach nearby, this is a great little Altrani hideaway.
Atrani features alongside other lesser-known Amalfitana seaside villages on Tripadvisor's escorted four-day hiking trip.
tripadvisor.co.uk
A Jenga-style puzzle of cliff-perched terracotta and rose houses, Positano is fiercely pretty — think flower-bedecked hangouts and chic boutiques, Escher-like steps and people watching while slurping on zuppa di pesce (fish soup) at beachside La Cambusa. Afterwards, check out the town's culture where beneath blue-domed Santa Maria Assunta are the remains of a Roman dining room, buried during the Vesuvius eruption of 79AD. The decorative wall paintings here are extraordinarily well-preserved. For a quieter beach flop, follow the cliff path to dinky Fornillo.
All of the bedrooms at centrally located Le Sirenuse have enchanting views over the rooftops of Positano, down towards the sea and Li Galli islands. Expect decorative tiles, antiques, and superbly comfortable beds dressed in crisp monogrammed linen.
sirenuse.it
There's the option to spend the day exploring the pretty bougainvillea-shaded lanes of Positano on Trafalgar's 13-day Best of Italy guided sightseeing tour.
For calm away from the tourist storm, Praiano is a great choice. And despite its proximity to Positano, it's also got an appealingly authentic feel, with grocery shops and low-key bars mixing with waterside restaurants. Praiano's small beach, backed by steep cliffs beneath the ridge of Monte Sant'Angelo, adds to its eye-catching appeal — and yes, you'll find upmarket hotels here — but without the steep price tag of its neighbour.
With bright rooms featuring Vietri-tiled bathrooms and sea-facing balconies, the affordable grotto-perched Hotel Villa Maria Pia is a rarity within this traditionally expensive coastline. Even better, it has its own private stairway access to the sea.
Explore Praiano during your free time on Tui's seven-night escorted Flavours of Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast tour.
With peachy views across the Bay of Naples towards Mount Vesuvius, cliff-cut Sorrento has a buzzy atmosphere where life centres around the labyrinthine lanes leading to Piazza Tasso. Check out San Francesco's pretty Moorish-arched cloisters, then, bypassing the tourist traps, catch the sea breezes in the old fishing quarter of Marina Grande. There are lots of fish restaurants here, but for something highly local, try a tasty 'cuoppo' cone of fried fish.
Expect minimalist interiors, sublime sea views and panoramic sunsets from the bedrooms of chic family-run boutique hotel, Marina Piccola 73. The rooftop terrace is particularly gorgeous for alfresco breakfasts overlooking Vesuvius.
Immerse yourself in Sorrento's best known tradition on a lemon farm tour, sampling products including lemon marmalade and limoncello. Sorrento is your base on a seven-day escorted group tour with G Adventures. Alongside getting to know the town in-depth, and enjoying immersive experiences, you'll also visit, Positano, Capri and Pompeii.
gadventures.com
Perched like a magnificent balcony over the Gulf of Salerno, Ravello is just a 30-minute bus ride from Amalfi. Storybook lanes are flanked with ancient towers and fine villas and, in the evening, you can dawdle crowd-free in the gardens and romantic ruins of Villa Rufolo (home to the annual music festival) where Wagner stayed. Equally dreamy are the flower-draped walks of Villa Cimbrone. The vast belvedere here, lined with classical marble busts, have peerless sea views.
Charmingly old-fashioned and with a prime position next to Villa Rufolo's gardens, Hotel Rufolo is one of Ravello's more affordable options. Book ahead to enjoy the festival's celebrated music from your bedroom balcony.
G Adventures has a seven-day winter tour taking in the major attractions of Amalfi, including time in Ravello.
gadventures.com
Don't fancy battling the crowds of Pompeii? Paestum in contrast is blissfully crowd-free and one of the highlight stops along this coastline. About two hours' drive from Amalfi, this is the site of three dramatic and incredibly well-preserved Doric temples dating back to when Paestum was settled by the Greeks in the 6th century BC. Don't miss the museum whose star attraction is the Tomba del Tuffatore depicting a diver caught in mid-air. Afterwards, cool down with gelati in its excellent outdoor café.
Set within a characterful 19th-century estate and with elegant minimalist bedrooms, Tenuta Duca Marigliano Boutique Hotel is just a five-minute stroll from the archaeological site.
Paestum forms one of the highlights of a self-guided nine-day Coastal Cilento Walk where your luggage is conveniently transferred from hotel to hotel.
• Read out full guide to the Amalfi coast• Best villas on the Amalfi coast
More affordable than their glam neighbours to the west, Maiori and Minori are fabulously low-key, and if you're into beaches, Maiori offers the longest stretch of sand along this coast. Walk here via the fragrant Path of the Lemons and spend time exploring its pretty old quarter. Afterwards, visit the Villa Romana e Antiquarium, dating back to the 1st century AD, then track down the local beach scene where toes-in-the-sand bars mix with affordable laid-back trattoria.
Enjoying staggering views along the Amalfi coast, newly renovated Galene guest house is perfectly positioned for Maiori's beach and harbour. Some rooms include a fully-equipped kitchen.
A full day in Minori is one of the highlights of Travelsphere's eight-day escorted Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and Capri tour.
If you're going to buy Amalfitana ceramics, earmark a trip to Vietri sul Mare, the birthplace of those colour-popping plates, bowls and tiles. The historic centre comprises a riot of majolica-tiled houses and shops, crowned by the dazzling blue and yellow-tiled dome of San Giovanni Battista. If that's not enough pottery, there's always the Museo della Ceramica to give you some interesting historical context.
Just one kilometre out of town, Hotel Voce del Mare has a prestigious setting cut into the cliff-face, which means gorgeous coastal views and panoramic sunsets from your private balcony.
Enjoy one of the most scenic walks, from Cetara to Vietri sul Mare, as part of Explore's eight-day Amalfi Coast Walking Tour.
• Great hotels on the Amalfi coast• Best places to visit in Italy
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