Ripening against the odds: The Black Thorn durian's battle with climate change
NIBONG TEBAL: Nestled in the heart of Sungai Baong, just outside the quiet village of Sungai Bakap, a hidden gem awaits durian lovers from across the region.
The Black Thorn, or Or Chee, a variety known for its exceptional flavour, has gained an almost mythical status, attracting people from Vietnam, Thailand, China, and beyond. As climate change continues to disrupt traditional farming patterns, the rarity and quality of this prized fruit make it even more sought after.
For 65-year-old Leow Cheok Kiang, the journey to cultivating this iconic durian was long and full of twists. His farm is a living testament to dedication and passion.
Leow's family has been growing durians for generations, each passing down the skills and knowledge necessary to produce the finest fruits.
And it is not just any durian that grows here — this is the home of the Black Thorn.
Leow's first encounter with the Black Thorn was in 2013. Back then, he was not yet convinced that the fruit would live up to its potential, but after a few years of grafting and nurturing the trees, he began to see what all the fuss was about.
In fact, the moment he entered the World Durian Championship with his Or Chee durians, everything changed. The variety won the hearts of judges, and Leow's farm gained popularity far beyond Malaysia's borders.
The Black Thorn earned its rightful place in the elite world of durians after a series of victories, including a top win at the World Durian Championship 2022.
Since then, the demand for these extraordinary fruits has skyrocketed, with lovers from across Asia eager to get a taste.
But with fame comes rarity. The Black Thorn trees, some over 40 years old, can only produce a limited number of durians each year — making them a true delicacy.
Unlike the popular Musang King, which is well-known and more widely available, the Black Thorn has a unique profile. Its flavour is a perfect blend of rich creaminess and a subtle, lingering bitterness, making it a prized possession for those with a discerning taste.
According to Leow, the trees that produce the best fruits are the oldest ones — typically over 15 years old.
"The older the tree, the more intense the flavour. Young trees simply can't compete.
"The fruit must be carefully picked at just the right time to ensure the flesh is not too soft and the flavour is at its peak," he told the New Straits Times during a tour of his farm yesterday.
Leow described his trees as his "children," and the care he pours into them is evident. Every harvest is a delicate process.
With fewer than 20 workers tending to the orchard, each fruit is carefully picked at just the right time — never too early and never too late.
The best fruits, weighing anywhere between two to more than five kilogrammes, can fetch up to RM70 per kilogramme on the market.
These Black Thorns are even exported frozen, to as far as Hong Kong.
It is not just about the Black Thorn.
Leow's farm also grows other varieties like Musang King, Hor Lor, and even Chempedak — each with its own loyal following.
But the Black Thorn is the crown jewel.
And with each year that passes, the trees continue to grow stronger, producing even more fruit and deepening the legacy of this incredible durian.
The waiting game is a long one.
Durian enthusiasts know that the best time to indulge in these royal fruits is at the end of May and into mid-August.
"Climate change and the unpredictable weather have delayed harvesting this time around.
"We expect the first harvest to be in 20 days' time and the peak to only be in July," Leow added.
For those lucky enough to get their hands on a Black Thorn, it is a taste that stays with you — a rare experience only available to those who are patient enough to wait.
Leow is proud of what he has built. His farm in Sungai Baong is more than just a business — it is a passion that has been nurtured for over three decades.
Besides the farm here, Leow and three other partners also manage seven other farms in the area and neighbouring Kedah, with over 4,000 Black Thorn trees.
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