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The Star
3 days ago
- General
- The Star
How an 'accidental' mango cultivator boosted the image of Harumanis in Perlis
The first few rays of the morning sun have just started piercing through the distant horizon when a small group of men slowly make their way towards an orchard located by the foothills of Bukit Chuping, one of the numerous limestone outcrops dotting the picturesque Perlis countryside. Making sprightly progress even with wheelbarrows in tow, they soon find themselves surrounded by neat rows of mango trees with boughs heavily laden with fruits. By then, darkness has ebbed sufficiently to provide enough light for Datuk Rick Cheng and his men to fan out and start inspecting the fruits, which have been individually wrapped by hand with custom-made paper bags several months earlier when the mangoes were about the size of a human thumb. Prized variants Throughout the entire fruiting season, utmost care is taken when handling these mangoes, as they are not from any run-of-the-mill variety. These are the prized Harumanis variant, which most mango connoisseurs consider equivalent to the premium Musang King and Black Thorn versions in the durian realm. Taking the lead, Cheng reaches out for a fruit nearby and, without removing the paper bag, skilfully assesses its suitability for harvesting just by his experienced sense of touch. 'Perfect! This grade A fruit is slightly soft to the touch but yet still sufficiently firm!' the Harumanis mango farm founder exclaims in jubilation before carefully unwrapping the protective paper bag to reveal an unblemished, uniform green fruit the size of an adult palm. Cheng (right) grows the high-demand Harumanis mango, while cafe manager Tan turns the smaller fruits into cheesecakes, tarts and ice cream. Before plucking, Cheng puts the fruit to a final test. He is completely satisfied after placing it close to his nose and inhaling deeply to take in the delightful aroma that only ripe Harumanis mangoes can exude. 'Harumanis mango skin remains green even when the fruit is ripe. As such, the best technique to determine ripeness is when a fragrant aroma is detected and the fruit is supple when pressed gently,' he explains further. When the fruit is harvested, Cheng highlights the fact that the phloem sap that spurts out from the severed stem is the ultimate proof of freshness. 'Now the clock starts ticking. The fruit is only at its best over the next three to five days and should be eaten within this period. After that, the quality deteriorates rapidly. This is among the many reasons why Harumanis commands a premium in terms of price compared to the other types of mangoes,' he clarifies further. Disappointment turns to opportunity As harvesting progresses, the established property developer recounts the incident about a decade ago that made him fall headlong into the agricultural sector. It all began over 10 years ago when Cheng was left utterly disappointed when this 23-acre land, which was newly acquired at that time, could not be used for its intended purpose as a housing development. A selection of Harumanis desserts that make use of smaller mangoes at Caffe Diem Jejawi. Not one to easily throw in the towel, he started scouting for other ways to put the land to good use. After taking into consideration the ideal sub-annual wet and dry seasons as well as suitable terrain and alkaline-rich soil, the most viable land use option was to plant mangoes. With that, Harumango Sdn Bhd was established. By that time, the Harumanis was already widely planted in Perlis. Fossil evidence proves that mango ancestry, from where all known modern-day variants hail, evolved simultaneously some 25 to 30 million years ago in areas known today as northeast India, Myanmar, and Bangladesh. Development and cultivation caused it to reach Southeast Asia. Teething problems The road to Harumanis success wasn't an easy one for Cheng, who has suffered many setbacks along the way. Eager to prove that soil and climate conditions in Perlis are indeed conducive for Harumanis cultivation, Cheng worked closely with the state's Agriculture Department to plant some 1,300 bud-grafted seedlings on his Bukit Chuping land. Cheng and his team began their journey with great zeal and enthusiastic hopes of securing recurring bountiful yearly harvests. However, their lofty aspirations were abruptly dashed when they discovered the harsh realities of agriculture. The first two years proved to be the most challenging. As if the sight of the young saplings ravaged by disease was not heart-wrenching enough, the novice farmers were overwhelmed by various teething problems related to soil fertility and irregular water supply for irrigation. Local youths Abdul Rahman Razak (left) and Mohd Izhar Hashim hard at work packing mangoes. Despite lacking in Harumanis cultivation experience at that time, Cheng realised that decision had already been made and the die had been cast. There was no turning back, and the project had to succeed at all costs. Gifted with the uncanny ability to turn perceived weaknesses into strengths, he became the much-needed stabilising force that helped put his nervous team back on an even keel. The gradual passing of time brought crucial experience for the farm to start flourishing. Smiles turned into wide grins when the trees started to flower by the third year. Watching the blooms turn into thumb-sized mangoes for the very first time was nothing short of inspirational for all involved. Although just a few fruits survived to maturity, everyone gave their best and waited with bated breath for the much-anticipated maiden harvest. Unfortunately, their joy was short-lived. Turning up one morning to the sight of half-eaten fruits strewn on the ground was nothing short of devastating. The unexpected overnight raid brought a painful realisation that there were monkeys and civet cats in the vicinity and they had been biding their time to strike when the fruits were ripe. Although Cheng suspected that the caves dotting Bukit Chuping served as lairs for the animals, he could do little more than hope for larger harvests in the coming years to share with these ravenous local animal inhabitants. As for the caves, they form an integral part of Perlis heritage after serving as places of refuge for villagers when the area was relentlessly attacked by the Siamese in the 19th century. Cheng (standing) chatting with diners at Caffe Diem Jejawi, which has become a crowd favourite as it highlights Harumanis mangoes in new and novel ways. Turning point A year later, Cheng had to once again fall back on his infallible belief in looking on the bright side of things when the dark days of Covid-19 lockdowns gripped the nation. True to the saying it is always darkest just before the dawn, the pandemic proved to be the turning point for Harumango Sdn Bhd. The stay-home notices triggered many human behavioural changes, including the need to consume more fresh fruits to boost resistance and immunity levels. That trend not only boosted sales for Harumanis home delivery but also saw satisfied customers passing word around to friends and families regarding the coveted fruit's alluring sweetness, unparalleled fragrance and delicate texture. Even after the pandemic was over and all 1,300 trees started to fruit, demand has consistently superseded supply every season. Cheng's decision to establish Caffe Diem Jejawi, which is part of the AllIn Hotel complex, near the royal town of Arau in 2023 to boost tourism in Perlis, inadvertently helped to solve one of the farm's perennial dilemmas: how to utilise smaller mangoes and avoid wastage. The Harumanis ice cream at Bukit Chuping is a crowd favourite. Under the able guidance of branch manager Tan Khun Wei, Caffe Diem Jejawi's skilled pastry and dessert chefs came up with novel ways to turn smaller-sized fruits into cheesecakes, tarts and even ice cream. A smaller Caffe Diem Jejawi outlet was set up at the farm as a result of the overwhelming public response. Today, even though Cheng provides overnight deliveries to places as far away as Singapore, people from all over Malaysia still prefer to make their way to Bukit Chuping to sample Harumanis mango in its many delectable forms. As for Cheng and his team, they are not sitting on their laurels. Although much has been achieved over the years with their blood, sweat, tears and sacrifices, they continue striving for excellence, and plans are already afoot to elevate Harumanis mangoes to yet another level.
New Straits Times
7 days ago
- General
- New Straits Times
GOF seizes over RM1mil worth of smuggled durian saplings, rare plants, cigarettes
GOF seizes over RM1mil worth of smuggled durian saplings, rare plants, cigarettes RANTAU PANJANG: The General Operations Force (GOF) seized Black Thorn durian saplings, rare Cycas plants, and illicit cigarettes worth more than RM1 million in two separate operations here and in Tanah Merah yesterday. GOF Southeast Brigade commander Datuk Nik Ros Azhan Nik Abdul Hamid said a lorry driver was detained for possessing the saplings and plants during the operation here. The 26-year-old suspect was arrested at Jalan Kampung Kedap around midnight. "GOF personnel spotted the suspicious lorry arriving in the area and, upon inspection, found 9,000 Black Thorn durian saplings and nine rare Cycas plants. "The saplings and plants, valued at about RM1.05 million, are believed to have been smuggled in from Thailand," he said. Initial investigations revealed that the consignment was bound for a nursery in Muar, Johor. Nik Ros Azhan said the case is being investigated under Section 5 of the Plant Quarantine Act 1976 (Act 167). The suspect and the seized items have been handed over to the Agriculture Department for further action. In a separate raid, the GOF seized 10,000 sticks of illicit white cigarettes, believed to be intended for the local market, valued at about RM18,700. "No arrests were made in the 3pm raid at an abandoned house in Kampung Pelain, Batu Gajah, Tanah Merah," he said. The case is being investigated under Section 135(1)(e) of the Customs Act 1967. The seized items have been handed over to the Pasir Mas district police station. Nik Ros Azhan reiterated the GOF's commitment to strengthening enforcement along the country's borders. "We will continue to intensify operations to curb cross-border smuggling and ensure our border security remains intact," he added.
Straits Times
7 days ago
- Business
- Straits Times
Holidaymakers flock to Penang as hotels offer all-you-can-eat durian deals
Many Penang hotels bundled room rentals with all-you-can-eat durian feasting. PHOTO: THE STAR/ASIA NEWS NETWORK GEORGE TOWN - Never underestimate the power of the Musang King, Black Thorn and all their genetic cousins to pull in the crowds. With the durian season here as well as the school holidays, most hotels were at least 85 per cent full during the weekend while some were fully booked, said Malaysian Association of Hotels Penang chapter chairman Tony Goh. 'The hotels were packed and did well during the long weekend. 'Hotels by the beach and in the town area were almost full,' Mr Goh added. As with the yearly tradition, most hotels bundled room rentals with all-you-can-eat durian feasting. 'Penang is renowned for having orchards that produce durians you cannot find in other states. 'Other than the ever-popular Musang King and Black Thorn, there are 'vintage' clones like Hor Lor, Red Prawn, Green Skin and Capri, and rare variants like Tupai King and Lin Feng Jiao (purportedly named after Hong Kong superstar Jackie Chan's wife). 'Each variant offers a slightly different tang, and for durian lovers, these are complex flavours to be appreciated and deciphered,' said Mr Goh. Penang tourism committee chairman Wong Hon Wai said the 'King of Fruits' was a fail-proof attraction. He said with the surge in visitors, the funicular train to Penang Hill also saw an increase in ridership: 6,691 on May 30, 8,183 on May 31, 9,396 on June 1 and 9,251 on June 2. 'The ridership totalled 33,521 in the past four days. 'On normal non-peak days, it is around 4,000 a day,' Mr Wong said. He said the increase in visitors was also attributed to Singapore's school holidays, which had started as well. Mr Wong urged tourism players, including hawkers, to give out good deals and provide top-level service during the holiday period. As for Penang's ever-popular murals, Mr Wong urged visitors to avoid scribbling, scratching or defacing them, which had happened in the past. 'The murals are meant to be admired, not vandalised,' he said. Penang Tourist Guide Association chairman Clement Liang advised tourists to avoid engaging unlicensed tourist guides. 'Many visitors unknowingly hire unlicensed guides and end up being disappointed by the tours organised,' he said. Mr Liang urged tourists to use only licensed hotels and facilities to avoid scams. THE STAR/ASIA NEWS NETWORK Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.
The Star
7 days ago
- Business
- The Star
Room and durian a welcome combo
Cream of the crop: A worker holding a Musang King durian, which is one of the favourites among visitors from China, Hong Kong and Macau. — ZHAFARAN NASIB/The Star Many hotels fully booked as holidaymakers flock to Penang GEORGE TOWN: Never underestimate the power of the Musang King, Black Thorn and all their genetic cousins to pull in the crowds. With the durian season here as well as the school holidays, most hotels were at least 85% full during the weekend, said Malaysian Association of Hotels Penang chapter chairman Tony Goh. He said that occupancy was strong during the period with some hotels fully booked, while others recorded over 85% full. 'The hotels were packed and did well during the long weekend. 'Hotels by the beach and in the town area were almost full,' Goh added. As with the yearly tradition, most hotels bundled room rentals with all-you-can-eat durian feasting. 'Penang is renowned for having orchards that produce durians you cannot find in other states. 'Other than the ever-popular Musang King and Black Thorn, there are 'vintage' clones like Hor Lor, Red Prawn, Green Skin and Capri, and rare variants like Tupai King and Lin Feng Jiao (purportedly named after Hong Kong superstar Jackie Chan's wife). Breezy trail: Visitors enjoying their walk at the Esplanade in George Town, Penang. 'Each variant offers a slightly different tang, and for durian lovers, these are complex flavours to be appreciated and deciphered,' said Goh. Penang tourism committee chairman Wong Hon Wai said the 'King of Fruits' was a fail-proof attraction. He said with the surge in visitors, the funicular train to Penang Hill also saw an increase in ridership: 6,691 on May 30; 8,183 (May 31); 9,396 (June 1); and 9,251 (June 2). 'The ridership totalled 33,521 in the past four days. 'On normal non-peak days, it is around 4,000 a day,' Wong said. He said the increase in visitors was also attributed to Singapore's school holidays, which had started as well. Wong urged tourism players, including hawkers, to give out good deals and provide top-level service during the holiday period. As for Penang's ever-popular murals, Wong urged visitors to avoid scribbling, scratching or defacing them, which had happened in the past. 'The murals are meant to be admired, not vandalised,' he said. Penang Tourist Guide Association chairman Clement Liang advised tourists to avoid engaging unlicensed tourist guides. 'Many visitors unknowingly hire unlicensed guides and end up being disappointed by the tours organised,' he said. Liang urged tourists to use only licensed hotels and facilities to avoid scams.
The Star
29-05-2025
- Business
- The Star
Weather woes can't stop the ‘king'
GEORGE TOWN: 'They smell like hell, but taste like heaven', exclaims Martin Yan as he poses with a variety of Penang durians. The award-winning celebrity chef, who is in Penang as part of his Asia Culinary Tour 2025, could not resist the temptation of the king of fruits on his latest visit. 'Penang is a food heaven. Here in front of me are a variety of the king of fruits. The best durians in Penang,' he said. Besides tasting some of the best food in town, Yan, who was invited here to promote Visit Malaysia 2026, also explored the epic rainforest at The Habitat in Penang Hill. Despite erratic weather conditions which affected durian harvests, this year's export to China is expected to surpass last year's target by 10%, said state agrotechnology, food Security and cooperative development committee chairman Fahmi Zainol. 'The setback is minimal and not likely to affect the supply this year. 'The demand from the overseas market, especially China, remains strong, particularly for premium varieties such as Musang King and Black Thorn,' he said. With the durian season starting about a week ago, it is expected to stretch until September, giving farmers more time to fulfill both the local and international demands. Fahmi said that despite a marked increase in cultivated land, from 1,817ha to 2,199ha, the overall durian output in 2024 actually declined by 10.8%, dropping from 20,082 metric tonnes in 2023 to 17,911 metric tonnes last year. 'This drop in yield is largely due to the unpredictable weather patterns including prolonged droughts and irregular rainfalls. This disrupted the fruit development and led to a premature fruit drop. 'Other factors included pest and disease outbreaks, as well as inconsistent farm management practices,' he said. Despite the production setback, Penang successfully exported more than 67,000kg of fresh durians in 2024. This, he said, reflected the state's ability to meet both domestic demand and overseas orders. Fahmi added that he remained cautiously optimistic about the outlook of exports, particularly for frozen durians to China. 'Penang recently secured approval to export directly to China, eliminating the previous dependence on transit through states such as Johor or Pahang. 'This breakthrough is expected to streamline logistics and boost export efficiency moving forward,' he said. Fahmi said last year, the state managed to ship out 12,346kg of durians, including 10,441kg of fresh durians and 1,905kg of pulp to Thailand and Singapore. 'The Chinese market holds immense potential due to rising demand and a preference for premium durians. 'With ongoing efforts by the state government and the Federal Agricultural Marketing Authority to improve the processing and packaging facilities, frozen durian export to China is expected to grow significantly over the next two to three years,' he said. Meanwhile, a check at several durian stalls in George Town revealed that prices vary widely, depending on the quality and grade of the fruit. Teoh Cheng Hin, 37, said while the prices of the local durians have dropped slightly, branded durians still command a high price especially Musang King and Black Thorn. 'The Musang King is now priced between RM68 and RM90 per kilogramme. 'Other premium durians such as Black Thorn and Hor Lor are being sold at around RM118 per kilogramme. 'The Tupai King, which is new in the market, cost about RM130 per kilogramme due to its rarity. 'There are other affordable brands too such as Ang Hair, Capri, Lipan and Butter,' he said.
