The Best Double Cleansing Routine For Every Skin Type, According To Experts
Summer's combination of heat, humidity and heavier sun protection creates the perfect storm for clogged pores — which means your cleansing routine needs to work harder, too. Enter: double cleansing, the K-beauty face-washing technique that's become essential for everyone, but especially those dealing with daily buildup in the hot weather.
Think of double cleansing as giving your skin a fresh start, twice over. The first cleanse, typically with an oil-based cleanser, helps break down sunscreen and makeup, while a second water-based product gently rinses all of that away, alongside excess oil and daily pollutants.
But skincare can be overwhelming, so to help you figure out the perfect double cleansing routine, I've tapped dermatologists and beauty professionals to share their recommended product pairings for each skin type. Whether you're dry, oily, sensitive or somewhere in between, there's a combination here that will keep your skin feeling extra clean and refreshed but never stripped.
Double cleansing for dry skin
If your skin often feels tight and looks flaky — especially after washing your face — you're likely dealing with a dry skin type. Thoroughly cleansing your skin without compromising hydration or the integrity of the skin barrier is key. With that in mind, cleansing balms make a good first step in your face-washing routine, as they're effective at breaking down stubborn products without being harsh on the skin.
Aesthetic Nurse Emma Wedgwood highly rates the Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm, £49, for dry skin. This beauty editor's favourite is effective at removing makeup, sunscreen and the oils that accumulate on your skin throughout the day. 'The balm has a rich, luxurious texture that transforms into a silky oil as you massage it in,' she says. 'It leaves my skin feeling soft, nourished and hydrated — never tight or stripped.'
For the second step, Wedgwood recommends following up with the CeraVe Blemish Control Face Cleanser, £14.50, which works to cleanse deeper into the pores. This gel-to-foam contains 2% salicylic acid, an exfoliating ingredient that helps remove dead skin cells and clears out any buildup in your pores. 'Salicylic acid is fantastic for addressing concerns like acne, clogged pores or uneven texture,' she adds. 'It's gentle enough for regular use since it's formulated with ceramides and niacinamide, which help maintain and support your skin barrier.'
If your skin is very dry, and you're not keen on foaming cleansers, consider a cream-based face wash instead. We love Skin + Me Cream Cleanser Sensitive Skin, £9, with moisturising glycerin and isoamyl cocoate.
Double cleansing for oily skin
Oily skin is pretty unmistakable: excess sebum leaves your face looking shiny, while enlarged pores and frequent breakouts are common concerns. If this sounds like you, a double cleansing routine can be especially beneficial, helping to remove makeup, sunscreen and excess sebum while keeping the skin balanced and preventing spots.
For oily skin, consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips recommends lightweight micellar water over an oil or balm cleanser. '[Micellar water is] non-comedogenic, meaning it is less likely to clog the pores,' he says. As such, Dr Phillips suggests starting with Neutrogena Hydro Boost Triple Micellar Water, £8.20, which is infused with hyaluronic acid and three different micellar molecules to effortlessly remove makeup while keeping skin hydrated.
Next, follow with a water-based gel or foaming cleanser, says Dr Phillips, to lift away all traces of oil. Look for ingredients like niacinamide, which helps regulate oil production and soothe inflammation, and salicylic acid, which exfoliates deep inside pores to dissolve buildup and prevent congestion. Ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid are also great, as they help retain moisture and prevent the skin from becoming dehydrated; this can encourage the skin to produce more oil to compensate.
' CeraVe's Foaming Facial Cleanser, £18.50, is an excellent choice,' Dr Phillips says. 'It contains niacinamide to calm the skin, ceramides to strengthen the natural skin barrier and hyaluronic acid to maintain hydration.'
Double cleansing for combination skin
Combination skin is exactly what it sounds like: oily in some areas (typically around the T-zone) and dry or 'normal' everywhere else. You might notice shine and occasional breakouts on your forehead, nose and chin, while your cheeks feel tight or appear flaky. 'Double cleansing for combination skin is all about balance,' says Emily West, aesthetic nurse practitioner at Creo Clinic. 'It's about finding products that effectively cleanse without disrupting the delicate balance between oily and dry areas.'
West's go-to product is a cleanser that contains gently exfoliating enzymes, such as iS Clinical's Warming Honey Cleanser, £48. 'It leaves skin feeling soft and refreshed without over-drying or leaving behind an oily residue,' she adds. 'The natural honey and royal jelly extract provide gentle hydration to combat dryness, while papaya enzymes and antioxidants help to dissolve excess oil and dead skin cells.'
As a second step, West chooses a gel or foam cleanser to balance oiliness without aggravating dryness. Youth To The People Superfood Cleanser, £38, is a great option for soothing and brightening the skin, thanks to kale and alfalfa plant, which are rich in antioxidants, as well as calming spinach extract.
Double cleansing for sensitive skin
Sensitive skin reacts quickly to new products or environmental changes, leading to frequent stinging, burning or redness. Double cleansing with products that are fragrance-free and specifically formulated for sensitive skin is important, says Dr Ellie Rashid, consultant dermatologist and pro medical director of Klira.
Dr Rashid swears by the La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser, £16.50. 'This is a fragrance-free and non-comedogenic product, minimising the risk of irritation,' she says, 'and the creamy texture gently dissolves makeup and sunscreen.' The formula also features glycerin, a humectant that attracts moisture to the skin. Niacinamide further soothes the skin barrier and reduces redness and sensitivity.
CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser, £12.50, is Dr Rashid's recommended second step. Ingredients include hyaluronic acid, which helps keep moisture under lock and key, while ceramides reinforce the skin barrier. She has another top tip: 'People with sensitive skin types should always cleanse with lukewarm water, since hot water can strip the skin of natural oils and dilate blood vessels, leading to inflammation and discomfort,' she adds. Post-cleanse, Dr Rashid says it's best to pat your skin dry with a soft towel and to avoid excessive scrubbing, which will only worsen sensitivity.
Double cleansing for 'normal' skin
So-called 'normal' skin is well-balanced, with an even texture and a strong barrier that rarely gets irritated. Dr Alexis Granite, consultant dermatologist and founder of Joonbyrd thinks that double cleansing is only necessary for those with normal skin if heavy makeup has been applied, especially foundation.
'In these cases, I typically recommend cleansing first with micellar water,' she says. 'These products are formulated with special surfactants designed to be gentle to the skin, but effective at removing makeup and dirt.' Bioderma's Sensibio H2O Micellar Water, £19.99, is her favourite.
For your second cleanse, consider following with a foaming cleanser such as Natura Bissé's Oxygen Mousse, £52, featuring hydrating mushroom extract and a refreshing citrus scent. If you prefer a more gentle lather, The Inkey List's Hydrating Cream To Milk Cleanser, £13, contains 5% rice milk, to soothe and support the skin barrier.
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New York Times
10 hours ago
- New York Times
Does Your Face Need Work? She'll Tell You.
Imagine this: You are a person of a certain age who is bothered by the sagging skin on your neck. On Instagram, an image of the newly rejuvenated Kris Jenner jumps out at you. For as long as she and the Kardashians have been famous, their faces have made an argument against the idea that God created us as we should be. But now, Ms. Jenner looks dewier than her daughters. Even if you lament the family's effects on American culture, it is hard not to admire the surgical handiwork of Steven M. Levine, a famed Park Avenue doctor who Ms. Jenner readily names as the one responsible for her face-lift. Unfortunately, you cannot get a consult. An automated voice message at Dr. Levine's office states that he is accepting new patients only via referral. You might, at this point, head to Reddit and look through scores of reviews for other plastic surgeons whose patients walk away pleased with what they regard to be a similar result. Or you might schedule an appointment with Melinda Farina, a 44-year-old former dental assistant who over the last decade has become one of the most significant players on the plastic surgery scene. Unlike Dr. Levine, Ms. Farina does not perform face-lifts, tummy tucks or nose jobs. Instead, she is a consultant who calls herself the Beauty Broker and charges around $750 for an hourlong consultation, after which she connects clients to the surgeons she thinks best fit their aesthetic and can work within their budgets. (She also has a team of eight consultants who work for her; their fees start at $350 per consult.) From there, she may handle myriad tasks associated with surgery — among them translating medical jargon, soothing frayed nerves and handling aftercare. A decade ago, prime players within the beauty industry were busy selling the idea that the best way to reverse the aging process was not with invasive surgeries but with a variety of injections and laser treatments. Recently, the pendulum has swung back. Part of this, doctors say, is because of GLP-1 drugs such as Ozempic and Wegovy, which can lead to sagging skin after weight loss that cannot be easily addressed without surgery. But it is also because of the proliferation of face-lifts, nose jobs and eyelid surgeries featured on Instagram and TikTok. With more awareness and information comes more choice and more uncertainty. Enter: Ms. Farina. She has benefited from the secrecy and shame that was once associated with plastic surgery, marketing herself as a person capable of helping clients find the best physicians. She has appeared on her client Gwyneth Paltrow's podcast, talking about her increasing antipathy toward fillers. She has spoken before scores of surgeons at some of the plastic surgery industry's biggest conferences. And she is doing everything she can to ensure that even as high-profile people begin to speak more openly about the work they've had done, her middle-person services remain in demand. Ms. Farina has also made waves by arriving at the party with her own set of knives. She has gotten into legal spats with beauty influencers. She has publicly accused two of the industry's best-known doctors of botching procedures. (One of them sued her. The case was settled out of court.) 'We sign NDAs with all our celebs — and discretion and privacy is the most important thing all the time,' Ms. Farina said on a recent afternoon, sitting at a banquette at the Surrey Hotel on the Upper East Side of Manhattan. She was clad in a white Balmain skirt with black horses, a rose gold Rolex President dangling from her wrist as she picked at an artichoke salad. At her side, a gold Prada scrunchie was attached to the gold strap of her black Hermès Kelly bag. Ms. Farina likes to say that her approach is less rather than more. 'I'm a shoemaker with no shoes,' is how she tried to make the point that she is not overly reconstructed, before allowing that she has had certain things done: a nose job at 19, a fat transfer to volumize her breasts at 36, a breast reduction at 41. Fillers and lip injections ('biggest regret,' she said) at some point as well. She did also have shoes; they were four-inch Jimmy Choos. Earlier that day, Ms. Farina had accompanied a client ('they're not patients; I don't have a medical degree,' she said) to a surgery. The client was from Dubai. Ms. Farina said the client was in New York for a face-lift and hair transplant. 'You gotta get them in, get them out, get them back to Dubai and make sure everything goes well and that there's no issues at all,' she said. 'So we have a whole post-op team taking care of her. She's a pretty prominent figure.' Of course, Ms. Farina could not say who she was. From the Ferry to Park Avenue 'I come from a blue-collar family, not the 1 percent, and that's at the heart of who I am,' said Ms. Farina, who grew up on Staten Island. Her mother ran a wellness center at a hospital; her father worked in construction. She said that after high school, she went to the University of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey but transferred after less than two years to New York University, though she did not graduate. She began working at the Upper East Side cosmetic dentistry practice of Dr. Larry Rosenthal, with the idea being that she would become a dental technician. As is the case for many people with well-tended personal brands, the details of her origin story aren't always consistent. She's in the business of self-improvement, and in telling her own story, there is a certain amount of retroactive reinvention. Her knowledge of her subject is encyclopedic; her awareness of how easy it is to check facts, occasionally less so. On her website, Ms. Farina says that she 'brings a robust educational background from N.Y.U. and Columbia University' to her work in 'the medical and dental aesthetics fields.' New York University's College of Dentistry said it had no record of her having studied there. Columbia University would not comment on whether she had taken courses there, citing privacy concerns. (Ms. Farina said she wasn't surprised that N.Y.U. couldn't find a record: 'I was there for two or three months.') As she tells it, while working for Dr. Rosenthal she realized that if she was going to be in the business of optimizing people's looks, she need not confine herself to their mouths. Encouraged in part by Dr. Rosenthal, she began to think about becoming a consultant. 'He said, 'I'll introduce you to people,' she recalled. The consultancy she formed eventually became Beauty Brokers Incorporated. She charged clients for her services and also received payment from physicians to be in her referral network in the early days. One of the first people she began referring patients to was Dr. Jonathan Sherwyn, an Upper East Side surgeon. She sent him patients seeking breast augmentations and began working out of his office. (He also performed both her breast procedures.) Another was Dr. Sam Rizk, who works on Park Avenue and gave Ms. Farina a nose job when she was 19. In Dr. Rizk's waiting room on a coffee table is a binder of testimonials from happy patients. Buried inside is a note from Ms. Farina typed up shortly after she went into consulting. 'It has been 2 years since you re-contoured my nose and the compliments continue to pour in!' she wrote to 'Sam,' ending the note by saying: 'I knew from the second I met you … that you were 'the one' ha ha. None of the others could compare!' Sitting inside his office recently, eating a danish, shortly after completing a deep-plane face-lift, Dr. Rizk explained her success by saying: 'She knows her stuff better than some doctors do. And she has balls of steel.' The Skeptics, Haters and Fans 'When you're working with surgeons on the Upper East Side and dealing with this type of clientele, it rubs off on you,' said Ms. Farina, who now lives in Weehawken, N.J., in a $2.5 million house that she rents, along with her golden retriever, Eddie Vedder. She said that the rarefied world she moves in for work has had some impact on other areas of her life. 'Everyone would say, 'She's high maintenance,'' she said. 'And the men felt like they could not afford dating me.' She does now have a boyfriend, who works in software development. She regularly posts photos of him on Instagram, but declined to name him. Life is busy, controversy follows, she acknowledges. 'There are skeptics, there are haters, there are people who believe I do not belong, and there are surgeons who think what I'm doing is absolutely necessary,' Ms. Farina said. Dr. Elizabeth Chance, a leading surgeon in Charlottesville, Va., credits Ms. Farina with enveloping her patients in a 'blanket of love' and 'culling her network' when surgeons fall short. Dr. Theda Kontis of Baltimore, the president of the American Board of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, calls Ms. Farina a person who takes advantage of legal 'loopholes' in a barely regulated industry, while preying upon the insecurities of potential patients. 'She creates the illusion that the doctors don't really know what you need,' Dr. Kontis said in an interview. Ms. Farina attributes this 'mishmash of feedback' to the fact that the business is still a 'old boys' club' within which she occupies a complicated niche as a person who drums up business for the doctors but, ultimately, answers to those who seek out their services and don't always walk away happy. Ms. Farina is known for going into the operating room and watching surgeries — a practice that is not illegal but is certainly unconventional — and for telling doctors when she thinks their fees are too high. That doesn't always go over well with the big egos of her industry. 'If you ask a prominent plastic surgeon to name the best three in the country, most would be hard-pressed to name the other two,' said Dr. Steven Teitelbaum, a Los Angeles plastic surgeon, to whom Ms. Farina refers many complicated 'revisions' — adjustments that enhance or correct past surgical work — but few new patients. 'She told me, 'You're too expensive,'' he said. Ms. Farina is not shy about publicly criticizing people in the field. And she has also been sued by prominent physicians. In 2013, Dr. Raffi Hovsepian, a Beverly Hills plastic surgeon claimed in a lawsuit that in 2012, he paid Ms. Farina $10,200 to join her referral network. Dr. Hovsepian said that in exchange, Ms. Farina was supposed to refer him a minimum of three patients over a year. The referrals, he said in his complaint, never came to him. As Ms. Farina presents it, that was not the arrangement. She says she usually recommends three or four doctors to each client, who then picks the one she or he likes best. 'It's not my fault if you can't close the deal,' she said. The suit never made it to court, and Ms. Farina still sends patients his way. 'He's a good surgeon,' she said, showing off a cache of emails from her office to his over the past few years. 'Maybe not the nicest person. But I love his work.' ('I'm not interested in being part of your article,' said Dr. Hovsepian, when reached for comment.) In 2019, Ms. Farina was sued by Dr. Simon Ourian, a Los Angeles cosmetic dermatologist to Lady Gaga and several Kardashians. It happened after she called him a 'fraud hack' on Instagram. Dr. Ourian, who had his license revoked in 2009 by the Medical Board of California but was ultimately placed on probation until 2013, never worked directly with Ms. Farina. He claimed in his lawsuit that she was 'steering clients/patients to aesthetic and cosmetic professionals who pay 'membership fees'' to her firm, while 'disparaging other doctors.' Ultimately, Ms. Farina settled out of court. In an interview, Dr. Ourian said he could not discuss Ms. Farina because of a nondisparagement agreement. Then he called her a 'good friend and a bad enemy.' 'I agree,' she said. The Magic Potion Last year, Demi Moore starred in 'The Substance,' a sci-fi horror movie about a woman who takes a potion to restore her youth. While she was racing down red carpets on her way to a Golden Globe win and an Oscar nomination, conversation swirled over who — if anyone — was responsible for her enviable real-life face. On Instagram, a Texas beauty influencer named Dana Omari claimed without evidence that Ms. Moore had received a face-lift courtesy of Dr. Levine, Ms. Jenner's surgeon. Soon after, the Beauty Broker — who said she 'can neither confirm nor deny' that Ms. Moore is a client — pounced. She posted about the scourge of sensationalist plastic surgery claims online and cited Ms. Omari's post as a prime example. Ms. Omari replied by telling her Instagram following of 250,000 that Ms. Farina was nothing more than a 'dental hygienist who gets paid on both ends to book patients with plastic surgeons she says are in her 'little black book.' And allegedly she gets kickbacks.' ('I said allegedly,' Ms. Omari reiterated in an interview.) So Ms. Farina sued Ms. Omari for defamation. In response, lawyers for Ms. Omari produced a 2019 email apparently sent by Ms. Farina to doctors within her network proposing a compensation system of sorts for referrals: 'Going forward, our clients (the patients) will pay us directly 10 percent of the overall surgical fee. All we ask is that our surgeons grant our clients a 10 percent discount as a courtesy.' Ms. Farina said that she sent that email to four people 'testing the waters for a new business model' but that it never came to fruition. She also said that it has been several years since she received any payment from doctors. Also introduced into evidence by Ms. Omari's lawyer were photographs of numerous Christmas gifts that Ms. Farina had posted on Instagram from various doctors. One example: 'So pretty! Thank You So Much Dr. L,' she captioned a story that contained a photograph of a black quilted Dior handbag that generally retails for north of $3,000. The suit is ongoing. Dr. Scott Hollenbeck, the president of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, who does not know Ms. Farina, said that he didn't have much issue with a consultant providing what amounts to marketing services for doctors. 'Merely recommending a doctor doesn't feel quite as wrong as saying 'You should get a lower blepharoplasty.'' But as it happens, that was exactly what Ms. Farina was recommending on a recent Wednesday afternoon. She was sitting in front of her laptop, talking over Zoom to Nancy, a 44-year-old small business owner from St. Paul. Nancy agreed to let a reporter watch her consultation with Ms. Farina on the condition that her last name not be used. Nancy had sharp, angular features and a sample-size waist. She looked a lot like Bethenny Frankel. She was upset about a hollowing out that she believed was taking place below her eyes. 'You don't need a face-lift, so that's the good news,' Ms. Farina said. 'I'm not ready for that,' Nancy replied, nodding. 'No, you look great. But I do notice there's some hollowing going on,' Ms. Farina said. Gesturing at Nancy, she focused on the 'area beneath her eyes. 'That needs to be re-draped and repositioned,' she said. Then she got technical: 'So we do what's called a transconjunctival blepharoplasty, which is a procedure where they go under the lid and they make a little incision and lift that fat pad up and reposition it.' Within minutes, Ms. Farina had a list of plastic surgeons, and was dispensing information about their prices, though she noted her ability to negotiate lower ones. Of course, as much of this information becomes available on the internet, some of Ms. Farina's detractors argue that the same platform that has enabled her rise may ultimately be her undoing. But so far, she sees little evidence for this being true. 'Kris Jenner is not even my client,' she said later. 'And when she came out about her face-lift, my inbox blew up. We got over 700 inquiries that day.' Kitty Bennett contributed research.
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a day ago
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Yahoo
a day ago
- Yahoo
Dermatologists And Research Say This Is The Only Ingredient You Need To Improve Wrinkles, Dark Spots, And Acne.
Whether you're a skincare newbie or self-proclaimed aficionado, you've likely heard of tretinoin and its skin-transforming benefits. What was once an ingredient known almost exclusively to the medical community has now become a popular beauty buzzword. Most recognizable by its brand name, Retin-A (there are plenty of others), tretinoin, or 'tret,' as its die-hard fans refer to it, is the only proven skincare ingredient worthy of being called the anti-aging gold standard. It does everything from improving the look of lines and wrinkles to smoothing rough and uneven skin texture and shrinking all types of acne. It's benefits are so well-known, they've got their own name: the 'tret glow.' And even though it's been around since the 1970s, tretinoin only gained a cult-like status over the past decade or so. 'Thanks to social media, the average person is finally catching on to what we dermatologists have known for decades: tret works,' says Chicago dermatologist Jessie Cheung, MD. Think of it as the more powerful sister of retinol (both are vitamin A derivatives), with an ability to speed up skin cell turnover, resulting in smooth, healthy, youthful-looking skin. The trade-off? Using tretinoin comes with a bit of initial peeling and adjustment as the skin acclimates to the ingredient. Meet the experts: Jessie Cheung, MD, is a Chicago-based dermatologist. Ian Michael Crumm is a licensed aesthetician in New York City. Kenneth Mark, MD, is a dermatologist and cosmetic dermatology expert. So if you're curious about superstar, how it works, if it's right for you, and how to integrate it into your current skincare routine, then this primer has you covered so you can make the best decision for your skin just in time before your next dermatologist appointment. What exactly is tretinoin? Tretinoin has a long-standing track record in the world of skincare. The vitamin A-based topical medication, available by prescription only (retinol and adapalene are tret's over-the-counter cousins), is regarded as the most powerful retinoid. 'It's one of the most extensively studied and effective topical treatments for acne, photoaging, and texture improvement,' says New York City licensed aesthetician Ian Michael Crumm. You might recognize tretinoin by one of its brand names, including the OG Retin-A, Renova (often prescribed to treat photoaging), the lotion-based, less irritating Altreno, Refissa, and gel-based Atralin and Avita. Regardless of whether it is a cream or gel, tretinoin powerfully transforms the skin because it is comprised of pure retinoic acid. Over-the-counter ingredients such as retinol and retinaldehyde require the skin to convert them into retinoic acid—with tretinoin, that work is already done. "This provides a direct pathway to the retinoic acid receptors in the skin, making it more potent and effective," Crumm explains. "It's like skipping the line at a club—you get immediate access to the VIP benefits." Since tretinoin binds to nuclear receptors in skin cells and modulates gene expression, Crumm says it allows for faster cell turnover, reduced stickiness of dead skin cells (which is great for acne), increased collagen production, and more even pigmentation. In simple terms, tretinoin boosts collagen levels for firmer, smoother skin with clearer pores and less discoloration. Regularly using the appropriate concentration of tretinoin results in skin that appears more youthful and healthier. While the results of tretinoin take time to surface, initial skin changes (more on that in a minute) are usually noticeable within a few weeks. 'Visible improvement in skin tone, texture, and clarity usually takes eight to 12 weeks,' says Crumm. What is the difference between tretinoin and retinol? Tretinoin and retinol are both forms of vitamin A, and while they work towards the same goals, their mechanisms of action differ significantly. Think of tretinoin and retinol on a ladder: Tret's at the top (in terms of strength and results) and over-the-counter retinol is closer to the bottom. In fact, tretinoin is about 10 to 20 times more powerful than retinol. That's not to say retinol is ineffective—it's a great skin-renewing choice for someone who's getting their feet wet with retinoids or has sensitive skin and needs something gentler. And one 12-week head-to-head study study pitting three concentrations of retinol against tretinoin of the same strengths showed improvement in skin texture, wrinkles, pigment, and photodamage in all participants. It simply comes down to what the skin can handle best and what it needs. Here, some more of the key differences: Tretinoin is stronger than retinol Over-the-counter retinol falls under the vitamin A-derived umbrella, just like prescription-strength tretinoin, but isn't as strong. Dr. Cheung explains that because retinol requires conversion into retinoic acid to become active, it is a gentler option, but it takes longer to see results. On the other hand, tretinoin does not need to be converted, so it works upon contact, but it also comes with the potential for more irritation and dryness. Tretinoin works faster Both retinol and tretinoin can lead to major skin improvements, but tretinoin speeds up the results. Usually, more dramatic skin changes can be seen with tretinoin after a few weeks to two to three months (it would take 12 to 24 weeks to see similar results with retinol). "Not only is it stronger, but you'll see results faster with tretinoin as long as the skin can tolerate it,' says dermatologist and cosmetic dermatology expert Kenneth Mark, MD. 'But for some, it can be irritating." Research shows that retinol is better tolerated than tretinoin cream. Tretinoin treats acne and signs of aging Tretinoin treats the common signs of aging and acne, whereas retinol is formulated specifically to improve aging skin. "Tretinoin directly targets the mechanisms that lead to acne to normalize follicular keratinization, reduce skin inflammation, and minimize the appearance of clogged pores," Crumm explains. "Tretinoin is also the most powerful and widely researched retinoid to improve the appearance of photoaging on the skin.' Tretinoin can be more irritating. Since tretinoin binds to skin receptors, it fast-tracks skin cell turnover and stimulates collagen production in the process. But tretinoin also comes with a steeper adjustment curve than retinol, Crumm shares. 'That is why most dermatologists and skincare experts often recommend that sensitive and dry skin types start with retinol and prescribe tretinoin for acne-prone and aging skin.' Plus, many retinols are also formulated with hydrating ingredients to help buffer dryness or micro-dosed for maximum benefits that are more tolerable. What are the benefits of tretinoin? The better question is, what can't tretinoin do for your skin? 'It reprograms the skin's functions at a cellular level, which is why it is used to treat everything from acne to fine lines and even melasma," says Dr. Cheung. Here, a breakdown: Reduces fine lines and wrinkles. Tretinoin is clinically proven to improve aging skin. Regular and consistent use of tretinoin stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, giving the skin a natural, youthful plumpness. With more abundant healthy collagen and elastin present, wrinkles and fine lines become less noticeable, particularly around the eyes, mouth, and cheeks. 'Studies show that tretinoin also increases epidermal skin thickness while significantly reducing wrinkles after 12 weeks of use,' says Dr. Mark. Improves acne-prone skin. Tretinoin is a choice medication in the fight against acne. It helps with both comedonal and inflammatory acne by speeding up the rate of skin cell turnover to unclog the pores and reduce inflammation in the skin. "Plus, it can help prevent new acne lesions from forming," says Dr. Mark. It also penetrates and clears pores more efficiently, to reduce oil production. One study showed that 0.05% tretinoin reduced inflammatory and noninflammatory acne by 52% and 46% at the 12-week mark, while also improving acne severity. Smooths and brightens the skin. Tretinoin is super effective in speeding up cellular turnover, leading to the growth of new, healthy skin cells and new collagen, for improved texture. Its exfoliating properties remove dead skin cells from the surface and unclog the pores so that new, fresh cells can better make their way to the surface. Together, this leads to smoother, brighter-looking skin. 'Studies show that tretinoin also increases epidermal skin thickness while significantly reducing wrinkles after 12 weeks of use,' says Dr. Mark. 'It also improves skin elasticity, which strengthens the skin to improve its tone while reducing sagging.' That's why those who use tretinoin routinely have baby-soft skin that boasts a natural radiance. Reduces inflammation. Tretinoin helps decrease inflammation in the skin, helping to minimize acne breakouts and quell rosacea flare-ups. Research shows that tretinoin normalizes skin cell turnover, which also decreases skin inflammation over time. Controls oil production. When the pores become clogged with dead skin, keratin, sebum, and bacteria, breakouts can be the byproduct. But tretinoin helps shrink the oil glands to dramatically improve congested pores and minimize their appearance, says Dr. Mark. In one study, acne patients who used tretinoin nightly for one week showed far less sebum production and skin oiliness, making it a good solution for those looking to manage oily, acne-prone complexions. Repairs sun damage. One of tretinoin's most significant benefits, according to Dr. Mark, is its ability to decrease sun-induced collagen breakdown and even prevent and treat pre-cancers by repairing UV-induced DNA damage. Fades pigmentation and dark spots. Crumm says tretinoin helps properly and evenly disperse melanin (the natural pigment that gives skin its color), which helps fade sunspots and post-inflammatory discoloration. This creates more evenly toned, uniform skin that boasts a natural glowy brightness. Clinical data also show that routinely applying tretinoin to dark spots and areas with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation helps lighten discoloration in all skin tones. What are the risks to using tretinoin? While tretinoin may be a godsend for some, it's not right for everyone. Sensitive skin types, as well as those with rosacea or eczema, can experience unwanted side effects, such as dryness, peeling, and redness, when using it. Crumm always recommends starting low (in terms of concentration) and slow (only a few nights per week to allow the skin to adjust) to help minimize common side effects, which include: Purging This refers to the phenomenon of patients experiencing more breakouts at first, due to the initial increase in skin cell turnover. It can occur when starting tretinoin or switching concentrations or brands. "Some people break out at first or get flaky,' says Dr. Cheung. Rather than throwing in the towel, try and power through this purge period by keeping the low-and-slow strategy in mind. "Apply it only one to two times per week initially, and then slowly increase to no more than three times per week for long-term use," she adds. Dryness, redness, and irritation It's normal for the skin to become dry, red, flaky, and even feel tight especially during the first four to six weeks of using tretinoin. Since tretinoin isn't known for being gentle, it's often recommended to start with a low concentration (0.025%). You can also use the sandwich or buffering method to decrease the likelihood of this side effects. At night, apply a layer of moisturizer, wait a few minutes for it to dry, then apply a pea-sized amount of tretinoin, and then another layer of moisturizer to help reduce irritation. Only use it once or twice weekly, always alongside a good moisturizer to help reduce any irritation. And avoid using harsh exfoliators and alcohol-based skincare products to keep the skin balanced. "You can add in gentle actives, such as peptides and growth factors, but avoid using glycolic and salicylic acids when the skin feels dry or compromised,' says Dr. Cheung. Remember that an overzealous approach to tretinoin won't speed up results or make the skin look younger faster—less is more. Sun sensitivity 'Tretinoin can thin the stratum corneum initially, making skin more susceptible to UV damage,' Crumm says. That's why daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 is non-negotiable. Bottom line: Should you try tretinoin? If lackluster skin, acne, stubborn discoloration, rough texture, or uneven skin tone sits high on your "I-want-to-fix-it' list, then that's an emphatic yes. But don't expect instant results or an overnight miracle. Although tretinoin works immediately, it's normal for there to be some skin sloughing, initial dryness, or redness before the results start to show. "Some people start to see improvements in skin texture and clarity within a few weeks, but the more dramatic results can take a few months to see," Dr. Cheung says. While almost all skin types can improve from using tretinoin, Crumm says it's most effective for someone with persistent acne, sun damage, uneven texture, or early signs of aging when used under the guidance of a dermatologist. However, sensitive skin types should proceed cautiously and start with lower concentrations of tretinoin, using it less often. And if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, consider tretinoin off limits as it's not safe to use and may be linked to birth defects. At the end of the day, tretinoin remains one of the best multi-purpose, research-backed skincare ingredients. It always has been, and likely always will be, a favorite amongst dermatologists and skin experts for treating acne, aging skin, and tone and texture because it works. While patience is key, using the right concentration and following a consistent plan can dramatically transform the skin over time. If you are ready to commit to tretinoin and use it the right way, the glow, youthful bounce, and plumpness it delivers are more than worth the wait. You Might Also Like Jennifer Garner Swears By This Retinol Eye Cream These New Kicks Will Help You Smash Your Cross-Training Goals
