Molly Mae's sister got Bali completely wrong – the reality is beautiful lesser-known spots and friendly locals
At least, that's what I found when I visited, so I was shocked when Molly Mae's sister, Zoe Rae, ditched the island after just two days.
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Initially when I saw that Zoe Rae - Molly Mae's sister - was going to be in Bali at the same time as me, I was genuinely excited.
I thought it was great that someone with her platform would be shining a light on a destination that thrives on tourism - but as we've all heard, it didn't exactly work out that way.
Bali's economy is heavily dependent on people coming from around the world to experience its food, nature, culture, and community
And someone with influence, like Zoe, has the power to support that.
So I was disappointed when, just 48 hours after arriving, Zoe and her husband Danny flew to Dubai to finish their holiday, calling it a 'quick extraction."
In her vlog, Zoe explained that Bali hadn't lived up to her 'high expectations', saying that if you 'zoom out' of the photos of coffee shops that influencers post, the reality was different.
Of course, everyone is entitled to their own opinions and experiences.
But Zoe's take on Bali, based on less than two days on the island, misses so much of what makes it special, and more importantly, risks negatively shaping the way others perceive it too.
I was in Uluwatu at the same time as Zoe and Danny. My partner and I even crossed paths with them at a group exercise class at Bambu Fitness, a fantastic local gym known for its community vibe.
What we experienced was a place that, while not always picture-perfect, is layered with amazing beauty and culture.
Enjoy a spot of swing Bali
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Yes, Bali has its challenges - it's a developing region, and it isn't flawless.
But it's a deeply spiritual, community-driven island with rich traditions, warm hospitality, and landscapes that don't need a filter to feel magical - it's not Dubai. And that's the point.
Dubai is all about curated perfection, luxury on tap, and air-conditioned ease.
Bali is the opposite, and that's what makes it so special. Yes, the infrastructure isn't perfect. Yes, there's traffic. Yes, it can be chaotic. But if you're open to it, you'll find so much more.
The real magic of Bali, for me, is in its people, its energy, and its breathtaking landscapes.
It's in the beat of a Kecak fire dance echoing through the night and in the steaming bowl of Nasi Goreng served at a local warung.
It's feeling the spray of a waterfall on your face in Tegenungan, catching your breath between waves when surfing in Uluwatu, or wandering through Ubud's peaceful rice fields.
That's Bali - not just coffee shops and influencer photo opportunities, but something much deeper, if you're willing to give it the time.
I understand that for many, travel is about quick escapes and curated experiences.
But as a travel content creator, I believe in showing the full picture.
Travel isn't always aesthetic lattes and infinity pools, some days mean scooter rides in the rain or struggling to find decent Wi-Fi.
But there's beauty in those moments too, they're just as much a part of the journey.
Ubud:
Cretya sunset jungle day club - amazing jacuzzis overlooking the rice paddies
Omma day club - overlooking the Tegenungan waterfall, amazing pool and live DJ
Pyramids of Chi - ancient sound healing bath
Mason Adventures - ATV jungle experience
Tegallalang Rice Terrace
Sacred monkey forest sanctuary
Zest - plant based cafe with amazing view
This is Bali - great brunch spot & healthy Balinese bowls
Donna restaurant - great food and vibe
Uluwatu:
Uluwatu Temple - beautiful temple and they do Kecak fire dancing each night
Balangan cliff sunset point
Karang Boma Cliff - great sunset views over the Indian Ocean
Cashew Tree - live music night on Thursdays, great atmosphere
Morabito - great place for a sunset drink
Ulu Garden - live music every night and great local food
Secret comedy night - weekly comedy night in a secret location (also in Ubud and canggu)
Alchemy Yoga - great alfresco yoga studio with outdoor hot and cold plunge pools and sauna
Alchemy - lovely plant based eatery
Arabica - great coffee spot
Bambu fitness - fantastic gym, amazing group exercise classes and great healthy cafe
Ulu Cliffhouse - day club with incredible views
Dreamland beach - gorgeous beach, perfect waves for beginner surfers
Rapture Camp - surf school
Krinsa Sliver workshop - make a bespoke piece of jewellery
Hatch Sunday market - great place to shop from local business owners (jewellery l, clothes, souvenirs, food)
Travel is a privilege. So when someone with a big following on social media shares a negative impression after such a fleeting visit, it shapes perceptions in ways that go far beyond one vlog.
It affects local business owners, hospitality workers and families who rely on tourism not just to survive, but to thrive.
Of course, not every destination is for everyone. And maybe Bali just wasn't what Zoe expected. But Bali isn't pristine, it's raw, real, and soulful.
A completely different place, with a completely different vibe, and she left without really giving it a chance.
So yes, Bali is more than just coffee shops and luxury resorts. And no, it's not broken, sometimes it's just our expectations that are.
For anyone who wants to visit Bali, here's all the information you need from the guide to the Indonesian island's dry and rainy seasons.
And here's the tiny 'Bali of Europe' town right by Africa has beautiful beaches and £20 flights from the UK.
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Benone Strand A sweeping stretch of golden sand, this beach has some of the best views in Northern Ireland – on a clear day you can see Donegal's Inishowen just over the water, and if you look up at the cliffs behind you'll see the historic dome of Mussenden Temple. It's a good spot for beginner surfing, too. Insider tip: The HotBox Sauna is right on the sand, so you can build up a sweat before you leap into the sea. Area: County Londonderry How to get there: Free parking at the beach entrance. Whitepark Bay This gentle curve of white sand isn't for everyone – it's a steep walk from the car park, and the rips mean you can't swim in the sea there. But that just adds to its secluded, remote feel. You might also spot cows wandering on the sand, which belong to a nearby farmer. Insider tip: This is prime birdwatching territory, so bring your binoculars. Area: County Antrim How to get there: There's free, but limited, parking. Portstewart Strand With picturesque sand dunes, gentle waves for bodyboarding and an exceptional restaurant right on the sand, Portstewart ticks loads of boxes on a beach wish list. It's a great spot for a walk, whether you stick to the sands or explore the trails in the dunes and the nearby Bann Estuary. Insider tip: Book a table at Harry's Shack, an excellent seafood restaurant overlooking the beach. Area: County Londonderry How to get there: Park at the National Trust car park on the beach. Helen's Bay It's hard to believe this tree-lined beach is barely 20 minutes from Belfast, but Helen's Bay is a little slice of coastal bliss just up the road from the capital. It's fairly small, so sunbathing spots fill up quickly, but the clear waters and lush grasses behind more than make up for that. Insider tip: If it's busy, walk 20 minutes along the coast to Crawfordsburn Beach, which is usually quieter. Area: County Down How to get there: Helen's Bay train station is a 10-minute walk away. Tyrella Beach This Blue Flag beach is a great spot if you like to keep active – there's a lifeguard in summer months, it's good for kayaking and you can ride horses, but only in the evening during summer. There are great views of the Mourne Mountains, too. Insider tip: The sand dunes are protected and are the habitat of rare lizards, so be careful when you're walking. Area: County Down How to get there: The main car park is free outside of the summer months. Murlough National Nature Reserve Just outside the Victorian seaside town of Newcastle, Murlough is home to undulating sand dunes, with lush green grass on one side and the sea on the other. When the tide is out, the beach is glorious, with a view of Slieve Donard at the end. Insider tip: The onward walk to Newcastle is beautiful, but look out for high tide, which can cut you off. 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Area: County Down How to get there: There's street parking. How we choose Every beach in this curated list has been expertly chosen by our destination expert, to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of areas and styles, from popular city beaches to lesser known corners – to best suit every type of traveller. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations. Return to top About our expert Nicola Brady I'm originally from Sussex, and I went on holiday to Ireland 16 years ago and never came back. While I'm now based in Dublin, I spent a decade living on the Northern Irish border and still visit regularly.
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Find beaches by type: Best beaches for peaceful escapes Pantai Yeh Leh, West Bali If you imagined that Balinese beaches are perpetually packed with parasols, sun loungers and hawkers, think again. Pantai Yeh Leh's virtually deserted, coconut-fringed volcanic sand rarely sees more than a couple of local fishermen or a strolling expat. On Sunday afternoons, local teenagers sometimes race their scooters across the acres of mirror-like sand, but in general, you'll often have the beach to yourself. Surfers who complain about 'overcrowded' Bali should check out this un-surfed beachbreak. Insider tip: Drop into Puri Dajuma Beach Eco-Resort for lunch and then take a soak in the rock pools that are like natural jacuzzis out front. How to get there: You'll need your own transport or to hire a driver Jungutbatu Beach, Nusa Lembongan Given that it's about a dozen miles as the crow flies from Bali's capital, Jungutbatu Beach, on neighbouring Nusa Lembongan island, is a delightfully low-key town beach that has everything you could wish for from a relaxing holiday destination. It is unique in the area as it combines both a highly respected reef-break for surfing and world-class diving reefs – elsewhere in Bali, you have to choose between one or the other. Jungutbatu also has a range of hospitable homestays and friendly beach bars. Insider tip: Ask at EDDY Surfboard Hire for a boatman to take you out to the surfing or snorkelling spots that lie about a quarter-mile offshore. Return to index Best beaches for surfing Uluwatu, Bukit Peninsula Uluwatu is one of the most famous surfing waves on the planet. 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Insider tip: Hotel Komune has installed spotlights, making Keramas one of the few places you can surf at night (by advance booking only). How to get there: You'll need your own transport or to hire a driver but there are several resorts and homestays within just a short walk of the break. Best beaches for families Sanur Beach, South Bali There's always something happening along the three-mile-plus stretch of Sanur Beach. The well-paved, tree-shaded promenade connects Bali's most appealing stretch of beachfront cafés, cocktail bars and resorts, and has surprisingly peaceful sections of white-sand beach. Man-made breakwaters and a natural barrier reef keep the waves at bay, making it ideal for children. There's also a great range of watersports equipment available for hire, from kayaks and SUPs to kite-surfing and snorkelling gear. Insider tip: There's no shortage of bicycles for rent and dedicated cycle paths on the promenade offer an appealing way to explore this stretch of coast. How to get there: Just 30 minutes by taxi from the airport. Padma Beach, South Bali More colourful and less rundown than Kuta Beach, Padma is part of the seemingly endless arc of white sand that stretches from the airport westwards to Canggu and beyond. Padma, a fascinating piece of street theatre at any time of the day, really comes into its own shortly before sunset when thousands of colourful beanbags are hauled onto the sand and barbecues are fired up. Kids love the frenetic atmosphere, fresh juices and, of course, es krim (ice cream). Insider tip: A cacophonic army of musicians begins to compete with each other as the evening progresses, making this one of the most appealing places you'll ever visit for live music. How to get there: 20 minutes from the airport by taxi. Return to index Best beaches for snorkelling Amed, East Bali With a range of countless dive sites stretched along seven miles of coastline, Amed is one of Bali's most popular dive towns. The spot known as Pyramids, just off Amed's shore, is famous for regular sightings of hawksbill and green turtles, but everywhere you go, the sea life is incredible. Good dive sites are accessible directly from the beaches but sail-rigged jukung (outriggers) can ferry you to several wreck-diving spots. Lipah Beach is a sheltered bay that tends to escape the currents. Insider tip: You can hire diving equipment and join a class through one of the dozens of Amed homestays. Pemuteran, North Bali This little town, on Bali's tranquil north coast, is an inexplicably underrated holiday destination. It has a range of affordable resorts and a tree-shaded beach that lends itself to sunbathing. Best of all, the coral reefs – both natural and rehabilitated – lie just a few metres offshore. Marine life is sometimes unexpected, to say the least; on a hot afternoon, you'll sometimes see the resident monkeys at Goa Tirta Sunia Temple swimming in the ocean. Insider tip: A less than half-hour drive west from Pemuteran will bring you to Labuhan Lalang. From here, you can arrange boat transfers to the reefs around Menjangan Island. How to get there: You'll need your own transport or to hire a driver. Return to index How we choose Every beach in this curated list has been expertly chosen by our destination expert, to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of areas and styles, from popular city beaches to lesser-known corners, to best suit every type of traveller. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up-to-date recommendations. About our expert Mark Eveleigh I first fell in love with West Bali during a surf trip 25 years ago. Since then, I've returned at every opportunity and, whenever I'm not on assignment, I write from a bamboo and thatch house in the West Balinese village of Pekutatan.
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The insider's guide to Bali's secret side
Bali is all too often dismissed as 'overdeveloped and overcrowded'. With just a little curiosity and tenacity, however, it's still surprisingly easy to find authentic, unspoiled spots that serve as confirmation that Bali deserves a place on any list of the world's most beautiful islands. Hipster Canggu and chic Seminyak have ousted Kuta as the party playground, while mellow, mystical Ubud lures more visitors each year, thanks to its reputation as one of the world's premier yoga and wellness centres. Drive just a couple of hours from all that bustle and you'll find serene rural villages in East Bali where traditional life continues, unhurried and unchanged. The island's western third is almost untouched – an off-the-radar swathe of rice terraces, palm-fringed beaches and jungle valleys where wild deer, langur monkeys and the rare Bali starling (the island's own 'bird of paradise') still roam free. For more Bali inspiration, see our guides to the best hotels, restaurants, bars and nightlife, things to do and beaches. For further advice, see our expert's ultimate two-week itinerary in Bali. In this guide: How to spend the perfect day in Bali Morning If you want to escape the crowds, be sure to base yourself on Bali's tranquil south-west coast. After a beachfront breakfast at Puri Dajuma Beach Eco-Resort & Spa, take the chance to walk with buffalos – rare pink buffalos – and learn about Bali's unique rice-farming heritage with local farmer Pak Sudana. Enjoy a leisurely coffee break and tropical fruit smoothie at a beachfront café in Yeh Sumbul (The Holy Tree is a firm favourite). Everyone knows everyone in West Bali's little beach towns, so ask around and you're sure to find an experienced surf instructor who will show you the best local surf spots. Medewi Point is not suited to beginners because of its dangerously sharp rocks but Yeh Sumbul's sandy, uncrowded beach-break is one of the best for an introductory session in Balinese surf. Afternoon Grab lunch at Bombora Medewi to catch grandstand views of the local hotshots ripping Medewi's super-long wave. It's easy to rent a car (or a scooter), but consider hiring a knowledgeable driver who can act as a guide for an afternoon exploring. It's a 50-minute drive from Medewi to the fishing village of Perancak and the route leads you through beautiful paddy vistas. You'll see spectacular birdlife and might even be treated to the rare sight of buffalo ploughing the fields in the traditional way. At Perancak, you'll find one of Indonesia's most astoundingly colourful sights: more than 100 rainbow-hued and ornately decorated fishing trawlers. It's also likely to be blissfully quiet as very few tourists (and even relatively few islanders) are aware that it exists. Night Bali's iconic sea temples – most famously Uluwatu and Tanah Lot – tend to be jammed with selfie-snapping crowds at sunset, but at Rambut Siwi (three miles from Medewi) you can enjoy unbeatable clifftop views along 10 miles of beach, often in solitude. Despite the lack of crowds, this sprawling temple, with mysterious grottos at the foot of the cliff, is one of the most important places of worship for Balinese Hindus. Finish the day with a Bintang or a fresh coconut plucked straight from the tree at Rasta café Medewi. Self-taught chef Dewi (Rasta's wife) has inspired some of Bali's celebrity chefs with her regional specialities made from fresh locally-sourced ingredients. Try the spicy fish rendang or, if you have a sweet tooth, the dadar gulung (Balinese pancakes made with palm sugar). How to spend a week-long holiday If you have a single week to experience the best that Bali has to offer, then start at Menjangan, a small island off Bali's far western tip. Getting there is a big part of the adventure, so allow three hours to drive over the mountainous route from the airport. The highland road must surely be one of the world's most breathtakingly beautiful drives – especially if you leave at first light as the sun's early rays are lifting the mist out of the jungle valleys. The road quite literally passes through the sacred Bunut Bolong banyan tree. Check into The Menjangan, a lovely eco-resort, and spend the rest of the day kayaking around the mangrove-fringed lagoon where giant monitor lizards prowl and herds of majestic sambar deer cool their heels on the shallow reef. Rise early on day two for a Menjangan birdwatching tour, where you're almost guaranteed to spot the endemic Bali starlings (one of the world's rarest birds). Spend the rest of the morning snorkelling on the reefs around Menjangan Island. It's a half-hour drive to Pemuteran but this low-key diving town on the north coast is worth an overnight stop if you want to explore the reefs (both man-made and natural) that are accessible from the shore. Round off the day with dinner and cocktails at a beachfront restaurant. The three-and-a-half-hour drive south to Ubud is a spectacular roller-coaster journey across the high volcanic peaks. Before descending to the southern slopes, consider breaking the journey with a guided rainforest walk and boat ride at Tamblingan Lake (you'll find certified guides at the office by the car park). Check into Bambu Indah (which takes Indonesian bamboo construction to mind-boggling new levels) for two nights. Drag yourself away from the breathtaking property to experience the healthy and spiritual side of Ubud; take in a yoga class at the iconic Yoga Barn or a traditional spa treatment at Fivelements Retreat. Murni's Warung has been one of Bali's emblematic restaurants for decades and remains a favourite lunch venue. For a touch of romantic highland solitude, spend your last days hiking the paddies and spice forests around Sidemen. Base yourself at the riverside Wapa di Ume Sidemen but, if you feel like road-tripping a little farther east, make a lunch reservation for a delicious traditional meal at Bali Asli Restaurant, which affords views towards the peak of Bali's sacred Mount Agung volcano. Depending on your flight time, consider splashing out for the last night at the sumptuous Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, just across the bay from Bali's international airport. How to get there and how to get around Bali's I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport is served by all the main regional airlines. Qatar, Emirates and Etihad offer some of the cheapest and most convenient connections from the UK. Grab (the Asian equivalent of Uber) is a hassle-free and secure way to get around, but you can hire a private car with a driver from £30 per day. Many tourists opt to hire scooters but beware that accidents are common (often due to reckless riding) and are not recommended for inexperienced riders. When to go April to October is traditionally the dry season, but even through the wetter months – most notably November to January – the rainfall tends to be short and sharp. These storms can be excitingly dramatic and are invariably interspersed by bouts of sunshine. It's worth bearing in mind that the rainy season brings the benefits of uncrowded sights, shoulder-season prices, cheaper flights and dramatically cascading highland waterfalls. The north shore, with landscapes featuring cactus and even vineyards, is dry all year round. Return to index Where to stay Luxury Living Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan holds an impeccably poised position above stepped rice fields on the banks of the sacred Ayung River. More than two decades after it was built, it remains one of Ubud's most stylish five-star hotels. From the space-age concrete architecture to the chic suites and inexhaustible facilities, this resort is a real show-stopper. Along the quiet west coast of Bali, Puri Dajuma Beach Eco-Resort & Spa is a peaceful waterfront hideaway surrounded by palm groves, rice paddies and banana plantations. It's a wonderful escape from the tourist hotspots of the island; a luxurious yet down-to-earth refuge in a peaceful part of 'the real Bali'. Return to index Know before you go Essential information Bali Government Tourist Office (00 62 361 222387; The basics Currency: Indonesian Rupiahs. £1 = 21,956 IDR Telephone dialling code from abroad: +62 Time difference: GMT+8 Travel time from London: +-17 hours Local etiquette While many parts of the island are world famous as beach destinations, islanders view beachwear as highly inappropriate (rude even) when worn in streets, businesses and homes. Bali has hit headlines recently because of the behaviour of tourists who have violated the sanctity of religious spots with disrespectful costumes and poses. Accessibility Many resorts are well-equipped for travellers with disabilities. Potato Head Suites and Studios goes the extra mile with facilities for guests with disabilities and Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan (equipped with golf-carts and elevators) is also an ideal base. Unfortunately, even in the main tourist towns like Kuta, Ubud, Canggu and Seminyak, pavements are frequently broken and potholed and traffic is often dangerously erratic. About our expert Mark Eveleigh I first fell in love with West Bali during a surf trip 25 years ago. Since then, I've returned at every opportunity and, whenever I'm not on assignment, I write from a bamboo and thatch house in the West Balinese village of Pekutatan.
