Where camels roam and rockets launch: Inside Oman's remote coastal desert spaceport

The National

01-05-2025

This week, I found myself standing at what could soon be the Middle East's new gateway to space. Etlaq spaceport in Duqm – a quiet coastal town about five hours from the Omani capital of Muscat – is still very much under construction. But the ambition behind it is crystal clear: Oman is building a commercial launch site that could one day rival Cape Canaveral in Florida or Baikonur in Kazakhstan, with private companies sending rockets into orbit right on the edge of the Arabian Sea. As a space journalist, I've covered numerous launches from Baikonur and Florida, including milestone missions such as the UAE's two astronauts blasting off. But standing in Duqm, I felt something different – the beginning of a new chapter, where the region is not only participating in space flight but building the infrastructure to lead it. Getting here is not your typical work trip. I chose to drive, following a narrow road flanked by desert and mountains, with camels lazily crossing the path and the Arabian Sea hidden just beyond the ridges. But there are other ways to reach the spaceport - visitors can fly into Muscat, then take a short connecting flight to Duqm. From there, it's about a 90-minute drive. While Etlaq lies in a remote stretch of coastline, there are good accommodation options not too far away. About two hours from the spaceport, you'll find resorts such as the Crowne Plaza and Park Inn by Radisson, along with several locally branded hotels. In December, Etlaq hosted its first test flight - a 6.5-metre rocket that launched successfully from its pad in Duqm. That moment set the stage for five more launches planned this year, giving start-ups a chance to test their rockets, while Omani engineers sharpen their skills before the spaceport begins full commercial services, scheduled for the end of 2027. A second launch, a small one-metre rocket hop test, was scheduled to take place during my visit as part of a three-day public event. But strong winds meant it had to be postponed, a reminder that space launches are never guaranteed. Weather or last-minute technical issues can easily cause delays, a reality I've witnessed first-hand. The launch of Emirati astronaut Sultan Al Neyadi, for example, was once called off minutes before lift-off at Florida's Kennedy Space Centre, only for the next attempt to be successful. The UAE has already paved the way for the region's space ambitions, launching astronauts to the International Space Station and building advanced satellites and interplanetary missions. Oman is now taking its own bold step and with Etlaq, it's doing something few others in the region have: offering start-ups a real launch pad for test flights. That's a big deal. In countries like the US, the Federal Aviation Administration has strict licensing rules and long approval processes that can delay take off for months. But here in Oman, with fewer regulatory bottlenecks, regional and international start-ups now have a rare chance to test their systems faster, giving them a head start in the global market. But what brought me here wasn't just the prospect of a rocket launch - it was also the people. Specifically, the schoolchildren and families who took part in Oman's first spaceport fanzone, called Etlaq FX. Spread across four large tents only 3km from the launch pad, the event was designed to bring the public closer to space - something the US and Russia have long embraced but which has never really happened in the Arab world. Pupils from across Duqm participated in activities such as collecting stamps in their own 'space passports' and writing about or drawing their dreams to be stored in a time capsule. One tent was run by Omani Archives and another had vendors from nearby villages, offering hands-on experiences and games. It felt like a space fair but with local flavour. There was no flashy tech or glossy corporate displays. Instead, there were handwritten signs, excited schoolteachers and community members who genuinely wanted to be part of something bigger than themselves. 'We think the spaceport will be beneficial for the future of Omani youth, so we felt it was important to be involved,' one vendor village told me. Even without a launch, the energy was unmistakable. This was the first time a public launch viewing experience was becoming a reality in the Middle East. And it wasn't just about watching rockets - it was about showing young Omanis that this is their space story, too. That they don't just have to read about launches in places like Florida, Baikonur or Japan. They can one day run them, design the rockets and maybe even fly on them. I left Etlaq with sand in my shoes, sunburn on my neck and the feeling that I had witnessed the start of something. It may be early days but the countdown has definitely begun.