This ancient thermal wonder is a sole-stirring experience

The Advertiser

2 days ago

The guard looks at me, points to my feet, and barks: "Shoes off!"
The guard at Pamukkale looks at me, points to my feet, and barks: "Shoes off!" Subscribe now for unlimited access.
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I look ahead - a long and wide pathway of white lies before me, filled with visitors with their shoes in their hands. I take mine off and step onto the strange-looking surface.
The monumental gateway to the city of Aphrodisias. Picture by Michael Turtle
From my research, I know the white surface is calcium that's been washed down in the water for centuries, deposited here and hardened. But before arriving, I had no idea of how it would actually feel. Although everyone is being ordered to remove their shoes to protect this natural wonder, the rule has the unintended benefit of making the experience tactile. Now my feet can touch the white path - chalky but smooth, solid but a bit slippery where the water runs over, naturally chilled but warmed by the sun.
This is Pamukkale in Trkiye, a natural wonder and World Heritage Site that's been created by the thermal spring water flowing down the hill. Natural terraces down the slope have been formed by the minerals, along them are hundreds of pools with reflective water and calcified edges.
The calcium terraces of Pamukkale are a World Heritage Site. Picture by Michael Turtle
Pool upon pool cascade into each other. Some are now unfortunately empty because overuse by tourists over the years has tampered with the natural flow (even now, despite rules not to go into the water, I see some children splashing around). But when I get to the top of the track and put my shoes back on, I can look back down across the dozens of layers of these travertines and get the full effect.
I've arrived at Pamukkale just before sunset and the changing light creates an animated spectacle as the colours morph in front of me. From bright turquoise blue, hints of yellow appear, before the rich oranges fill the pools. The white calcium carbonate glows at first, before turning into dark black borders between the water. At one point, a strong wind picks up and the water comes alive, jumping out of the travertines and blowing across the cliff into my face.
The water is said to have heath benefits. Picture by Michael Turtle
For thousands of years, the pools and the water within them have been considered to have health benefits. The overuse that has damaged them is not a new phenomenon. To manage their popularity in Classical times, the spa city of Hierapolis was built at the top of the cliffs more than 2000 years ago by the Ancient Greeks and then adapted by the Roman. Once stretching for more than a kilometre along the top of the hill, it would've been an elegant resort with colonnaded streets, public baths, a theatre, and temples dedicated to healing gods.
There is still enough to see of the ruins of Hierapolis today to get a sense of how it might once have felt when the streets were busy with pilgrims and health-seekers. But the next morning, I set off from Pamukkale to explore a much larger and more impressive Ancient Greek city that once stood here in this part of Trkiye.
Aphrodisias is about an hour's drive from Pamukkale. As you might be able to tell from the name, this city was once all about love. Although it was a large regional capital with a population of about 15,000 people, it would've attracted a lot of visitors for its central focus, the temple dedicated to the love goddess Aphrodite.
Aphrodisias was famous for its marble sculptures. Picture by Michael Turtle
When it comes to the ancient ruins of Trkiye, most people think of the most famous of them, Ephesus. But Aphrodisias also has much to offer. The site stretches out over a large area and has been well preserved or restored. It also generally doesn't have large tourist crowds, allowing you to lose yourself in the moment.
Many of the houses that would once have filled the suburbs have yet to be excavated, but you can see some of the larger ones (often taking up a whole city block) that reveal a wealthy and prosperous community. The traditional-style baths take a prominent place in the city's layout and would have been the epicentre of the gossip trade, while a beautiful amphitheatre shows a dedication to celebrating the arts.
The amphitheatre of Aphrodisias. Picture by Michael Turtle
But one of the main attractions is the remains of the enormous open-air stadium, described on the information plaque as "the largest ancient stadium in the world and one of the best preserved". Standing at one end, the other seems so far away - 270 metres, to be exact. And there would've been times when 30,000 people from across the whole region would've filled every seat along that length, shouting and cheering in the blazing sun.
Of course, all of this revolves around the Temple of Aphrodite, with many of its mighty marble columns still standing. Although there was probably a sanctuary here from about the 6th century BC, this building is from about 500 years later. Some marble statues that once might have adorned the building have been found nearby, while other pieces of the structure lie amongst grass and flowers.
Ruins of the city surround the Temple of Aphrodite. Picture by Michael Turtle
And while the temple is the highlight, I find myself drawn to a much smaller monument - a marble headstone above a patch of grass marking a grave. It's here that Turkish archaeologist Kenan Erim was buried when he died in 1990 after 30 years leading the work to uncover Aphrodisias. If it wasn't for his passion, we probably wouldn't be able to see all the wonders that have been discovered here.
While the love of Pamukkale over the centuries has led to some damage to the travertines that only time will be able to heal, Kenan Erim's love of Aphrodisias has brought this once bustling centre back to life.
Words by Michael Turtle Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in televisionto travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-knownplaces, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals
along the way.