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The Advertiser
02-08-2025
- Science
- The Advertiser
Tracing the footsteps of giants: on the fossil trail in Queensland
A big fossil was just under the surface - I could feel it in my bones. "That upside down heart shape," says guide Montana, her laser pointer dancing on the stone, "that's the back right foot of an adult sauropod." Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area The Australian Age of Dinosaurs museum near Winton. Picture by Michael Turtle Before us, preserved in a stretch of prehistoric mudflat twice the size of a basketball court, are the footprints of giants. Here at the Australian Age of Dinosaurs museum near Winton, surrounded by the arid red dirt of outback Queensland, it's hard to imagine the dense conifer forest and river plains that once covered the landscape. Perhaps even harder to imagine, though, are the enormous animals that roamed amongst this lush vegetation 95 million years ago. I can see from the footprints that sauropods were huge: about 20 metres long, weighing about 25 tonnes, with four legs, rotund bodies, and elongated necks. It's why a footprint shows a deep hole where one slid in the mud - probably because a youngster suddenly ran in front. "That's why this site is so important," Montana explains. "We get to see some of the social behaviour of these massive animals." Preserved mudflats featuring dinosaur footprints at the Australian Age of Dinosaurs near Winton. Picture by Michael Turtle They're starting to come to life in front of me, but footprints only get you so far. Which makes the discovery of so many bones in the ground around Winton particularly important. At the museum's Fossil Preparation Laboratory, you can see volunteers working on these finds, spending days painstakingly removing the rock from around just a single sauropod bone. One volunteer looks up and tells me he thought he had a vertebra but it's just a connector. I ask if he's disappointed. "No! 95 million years and we're the first to see it!" The Collection Room holds some of the finished results, and the star attraction is Banjo, the most complete meat-eating dinosaur ever found in Australia. About six metres long and two-legged, this lightweight predator (if 500 kilograms is "light") could match some of the smaller theropod footprints I saw earlier (which Montana described as "angry chickens"). The age of the dinosaurs looked pretty scary. The museum's Fossil Preparation Laboratory. Picture by Michael Turtle But Winton is just one stop on this road trip I'm doing through outback Queensland and this is not the only dinosaur attraction I'll uncover. As one local puts it, "it's great to think you can drive two hours and go back 10 million years". He's right. You don't just travel through space on the Australian Dinosaur Trail, you also travel through time. And the fossils in the town of Richmond plunge me into a period when all of this was once a vast inland ocean. Richmond is small, with about 700 people and two pubs, so you won't miss Kronosaurus Korner when you drive in. Also, it has a 10-metre-long (lifesize) replica of a blue kronosaurus out front. Mouth agape, sharp teeth bared, it was one of the fiercest animals to swim and hunt in the Early Cretaceous waters here. Hughie the Muttaburrasaurus at Flinders Discovery Centre in Hughenden. Picture by Michael Turtle Technically, they're not dinosaurs because that term is only used for land animals, but "if you want to call them swimming dinosaurs, then fine," the museum's Dennis Clancy says, as he shrugs. So, let me tell you, there is a very impressive collection of swimming dinosaur fossils inside Kronosaurus Korner, with some relatively complete skeletons painting a fascinating picture of an ancient marine ecosystem, of sharks and turtles, massive schools of fish, and huge terrifying predators. Imagine finding one of these things for yourself! Well, in Richmond, you can. Just 12 kilometres out of town are official fossil hunting sites, where many of the items on display in the museum came from. Some of them were found by Dennis, who takes me out on one of Kronosaurus Korner's digging tours. Kronosaurus Korner in Richmond. Picture by Michael Turtle Gradually we peel back the layers of the earth, millions of years, and sift through it for evidence of its prehistoric inhabitants, history crumbling between my fingers. Incredibly, there's actually lots to find. I'm constantly coming across bits of fish, pieces of squid, even some fossilised turtle poo. It reminds me a bit of searching for gems in other parts of outback Queensland. "It's better than a diamond," Dennis says, when I ask if finding a fossil is the same. "A diamond is worth something but this is priceless." Kronosaurus Corner paints a fascinating picture of an ancient marine ecosystem. Picture by Michael Turtle Today I don't find anything particularly special that excites Dennis, but I'm given a consolation prize of a fossilised shark tooth that someone else uncovered... and I'm pretty happy with that. Still, I felt it in my bones that the big one was near. Dennis says I could be right. "The big find we're going to make one day, a kronosaurus, it's probably just going to be one of those spots you're pointing at." I see why people keep coming back here to dig. And I see why people do the complete Australian Dinosaur Trail here in Queensland, which has its other main stop in Hughenden. While here, I explore some of the town's sights and venture out further to the stunning Porcupine Gorge National Park. But for dinosaur fans, the highlight is inside the Flinders Discovery Centre. Dennis Clancy leads a fossil digging tour. Picture by Michael Turtle It's here you'll find 'Hughie', an exact reproduction of the skeleton of a Muttaburrasaurus, one of Australia's most famous dinosaurs because it was the first to be cast and mounted in the country. Hughie was a herbivore that lived on the coast of the receding ocean, but this three-tonne reptile still looks menacing looming over me. The petrified can still petrify, and that's the magic of these sites. Footprints take us a step back in time, while a fossil fuels imagination even today. They connect you with a deep past normally buried far beneath our feet - and if you're lucky, you'll even go home with a piece of it, like the 100-million-year-old shark tooth in my pocket. Words by Michael Turtle Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in televisionto travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-knownplaces, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals along the way.
The Advertiser
18-07-2025
- The Advertiser
This ancient thermal wonder is a sole-stirring experience
The guard looks at me, points to my feet, and barks: "Shoes off!" The guard at Pamukkale looks at me, points to my feet, and barks: "Shoes off!" Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area I look ahead - a long and wide pathway of white lies before me, filled with visitors with their shoes in their hands. I take mine off and step onto the strange-looking surface. The monumental gateway to the city of Aphrodisias. Picture by Michael Turtle From my research, I know the white surface is calcium that's been washed down in the water for centuries, deposited here and hardened. But before arriving, I had no idea of how it would actually feel. Although everyone is being ordered to remove their shoes to protect this natural wonder, the rule has the unintended benefit of making the experience tactile. Now my feet can touch the white path - chalky but smooth, solid but a bit slippery where the water runs over, naturally chilled but warmed by the sun. This is Pamukkale in Trkiye, a natural wonder and World Heritage Site that's been created by the thermal spring water flowing down the hill. Natural terraces down the slope have been formed by the minerals, along them are hundreds of pools with reflective water and calcified edges. The calcium terraces of Pamukkale are a World Heritage Site. Picture by Michael Turtle Pool upon pool cascade into each other. Some are now unfortunately empty because overuse by tourists over the years has tampered with the natural flow (even now, despite rules not to go into the water, I see some children splashing around). But when I get to the top of the track and put my shoes back on, I can look back down across the dozens of layers of these travertines and get the full effect. I've arrived at Pamukkale just before sunset and the changing light creates an animated spectacle as the colours morph in front of me. From bright turquoise blue, hints of yellow appear, before the rich oranges fill the pools. The white calcium carbonate glows at first, before turning into dark black borders between the water. At one point, a strong wind picks up and the water comes alive, jumping out of the travertines and blowing across the cliff into my face. The water is said to have heath benefits. Picture by Michael Turtle For thousands of years, the pools and the water within them have been considered to have health benefits. The overuse that has damaged them is not a new phenomenon. To manage their popularity in Classical times, the spa city of Hierapolis was built at the top of the cliffs more than 2000 years ago by the Ancient Greeks and then adapted by the Roman. Once stretching for more than a kilometre along the top of the hill, it would've been an elegant resort with colonnaded streets, public baths, a theatre, and temples dedicated to healing gods. There is still enough to see of the ruins of Hierapolis today to get a sense of how it might once have felt when the streets were busy with pilgrims and health-seekers. But the next morning, I set off from Pamukkale to explore a much larger and more impressive Ancient Greek city that once stood here in this part of Trkiye. Aphrodisias is about an hour's drive from Pamukkale. As you might be able to tell from the name, this city was once all about love. Although it was a large regional capital with a population of about 15,000 people, it would've attracted a lot of visitors for its central focus, the temple dedicated to the love goddess Aphrodite. Aphrodisias was famous for its marble sculptures. Picture by Michael Turtle When it comes to the ancient ruins of Trkiye, most people think of the most famous of them, Ephesus. But Aphrodisias also has much to offer. The site stretches out over a large area and has been well preserved or restored. It also generally doesn't have large tourist crowds, allowing you to lose yourself in the moment. Many of the houses that would once have filled the suburbs have yet to be excavated, but you can see some of the larger ones (often taking up a whole city block) that reveal a wealthy and prosperous community. The traditional-style baths take a prominent place in the city's layout and would have been the epicentre of the gossip trade, while a beautiful amphitheatre shows a dedication to celebrating the arts. The amphitheatre of Aphrodisias. Picture by Michael Turtle But one of the main attractions is the remains of the enormous open-air stadium, described on the information plaque as "the largest ancient stadium in the world and one of the best preserved". Standing at one end, the other seems so far away - 270 metres, to be exact. And there would've been times when 30,000 people from across the whole region would've filled every seat along that length, shouting and cheering in the blazing sun. Of course, all of this revolves around the Temple of Aphrodite, with many of its mighty marble columns still standing. Although there was probably a sanctuary here from about the 6th century BC, this building is from about 500 years later. Some marble statues that once might have adorned the building have been found nearby, while other pieces of the structure lie amongst grass and flowers. Ruins of the city surround the Temple of Aphrodite. Picture by Michael Turtle And while the temple is the highlight, I find myself drawn to a much smaller monument - a marble headstone above a patch of grass marking a grave. It's here that Turkish archaeologist Kenan Erim was buried when he died in 1990 after 30 years leading the work to uncover Aphrodisias. If it wasn't for his passion, we probably wouldn't be able to see all the wonders that have been discovered here. While the love of Pamukkale over the centuries has led to some damage to the travertines that only time will be able to heal, Kenan Erim's love of Aphrodisias has brought this once bustling centre back to life. Words by Michael Turtle Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in televisionto travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-knownplaces, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals along the way.
The Advertiser
04-07-2025
- The Advertiser
The pride of Belize is back from the brink
Belize has its own barrier reef that's teeming with life and relaxed island vibes. By Michael Turtle Updated July 5 2025 - 6:40am, first published 12:30am It's my first day sailing a boat," Captain Rob says as we get on board. "But don't worry, I've read the manual." Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area We all laugh. It's clearly not the first time Captain Rob has sailed. It's also clearly not the first time he's told this joke. The Belize Barrier Reef boasts about 100 coral species and at least 500 types of fish. Picture by Michael Turtle But I get the feeling that, although he's been doing this for years, this is not a job that gets boring. Every day is different and you never know what you're going to find when you're here in the Caribbean Sea, exploring the Belize Barrier Reef. We're setting off from one of the reef's main islands, Caye Caulker. Spelt 'cayes' and pronounced 'keys', the hundreds of islands protruding from the water have been formed over many years by the sediment from coral and animals. Many are just undeveloped specks - like the one we're heading to for the morning - but others are large enough to support townships. Some of the islands are mere specks. Picture by Michael Turtle Nearby Ambergris Caye has a population of about 15,000 people in the region's main town of San Pedro, along with plenty of luxury hotels. Caye Caulker on the other hand has only about 2000 residents and much more affordable places to stay. The atmosphere is relaxed with bars in the sand serving cold beers and cheap seafood. There are colourful pastel huts and beach volleyball in the golden afternoon. While some people come just to relax, the highlight of Caye Caulker... or Ambergris Caye... or Belize, for that matter... is the reef. Caye Caulker in the golden afternoon light. Picture by Michael Turtle The Belize Barrier Reef may not be as famous as Australia's Great Barrier Reef but it's actually the second largest in the world, stretching for about 300 kilometres down the coast of the Central American country. It's also one of the most biodiverse, with about a hundred coral species and at least 500 types of fish (not to mention turtles, manatees, and all sorts of other sea life). My exploration of these vibrant underwater landscapes begins from the shore of a small island where we've moored the boat. Pulling on the goggles and snorkel, I put my head under the water. The sound of the squawking birds and the sea wind disappears and is replaced by the dull hum of submerging. Exploring the underwater paradise. Picture by Michael Turtle All around me are small mountains of coral, the valleys in between them full of schools of fish swimming along like underwater highways. The sun shines through and I can see the dominant hues of green, purple, brown, and blue. Here, these are the colours of a healthy reef. When we leave the island and sail into deeper waters, I jump off the boat and enter the marine ecosystem again. This time, larger fish swim gracefully by, their colours and patterns glittering in the light. Smaller fish, seemingly alone, dart about between the rocks. Nurse sharks rise up from their resting place in the sand and circle around me in a way that would seem threatening if I didn't know they were harmless. A pack of stingrays glides past, their wings slowly flapping and their tales sticking out behind. No need to be alarmed. Picture by Michael Turtle The Belize Barrier Reef is clearly an important tourist attraction - probably the most important in the country - but there's much more to it than just that. It is also a national symbol, intertwined with the heritage and the people. It's estimated about 200,000 Belizeans are in some way dependent on the reef for their livelihood, not just in tourism. And this is why Belize's government is now making such an effort to look after the reef... after a troubling conservation period. In 2009, UNESCO added the Belize Barrier Reef to the List of World Heritage in Danger, which is for sites that are under severe threat (many of the 56 that are currently on the list are in conflict zones like Ukraine, Palestine, and Libya). The stated reason was because of "concerns about sales of lands for private development within the property, mangrove destruction, and offshore oil extraction". In other words, the ecology of the fragile reef was being trumped by big business. The population of Caye Caulker is about 2000. Picture by Michael Turtle The decision by UNESCO was obviously a wake-up call and, within a few years, the government of Belize was actively addressing these concerns, with small and large projects, including implementing a permanent ban of oil drilling in all Belize's offshore waters. When you put your head below the surface, you can see immediately the effect it's had - clean water, healthy coral, abundant animals. In 2018, UNESCO took the Belize Barrier Reef off the danger list, describing it as "a pivotal moment for the World Heritage Convention and the oceans." This environmental campaign has also had an effect in Belize of instilling a newfound sense of pride in the reef amongst the population. In a similar way to how Australians see the Great Barrier Reef as part of our national identity, the Belizeans now see the Belize Barrier Reef as a representation of their patriotism. And for tourists, the reef is reason enough to visit. Belize is a long way from Australia and few of us get here each year, but if you do make it, you'll find an incredible blend of Central American and Caribbean cultures within a safe English-speaking environment. On the mainland, there are Mayan ruins hidden in the jungle, caves you can spend all day exploring, and rich cultures happy to share their music and food. But it's on the cayes and in the water where you'll find the real pride of Belize. Words by Michael Turtle Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in televisionto travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-knownplaces, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals along the way.
Irish Examiner
16-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Irish Examiner
Win tickets to Cian Ducrot at Live At The Marquee, plus VIP Lounge access, an overnight stay and a chauffeur-driven transfer
As a valued Irish Examiner subscriber, we're excited to offer you an exclusive chance to win a Live At The Marquee VIP experience. The competition prize includes a pair of tickets to see Cian Ducrot at the Cork venue on Sunday July 20, and VIP Lounge access. You will also win a luxury night away on the same evening, where you will stay at the award-winning Montenotte Hotel, enjoying a pre-concert dinner for two in their Panorama Restaurant and breakfast the next morning. And to top it off, you will be taken to the Marquee courtesy of Michael Turtle Chauffeur Services, and dropped back to the Montenotte following the show. This is exclusive subscriber content. Already a subscriber? Sign in Subscribe to access all of the Irish Examiner. Annual €120€60 Best value Monthly €10€4 / month Unlimited access. Subscriber content. Daily ePaper. Additional benefits.
