The pride of Belize is back from the brink
By Michael Turtle
Updated July 5 2025 - 6:40am, first published 12:30am
It's my first day sailing a boat," Captain Rob says as we get on board. "But don't worry, I've read the manual." Subscribe now for unlimited access.
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We all laugh. It's clearly not the first time Captain Rob has sailed. It's also clearly not the first time he's told this joke.
The Belize Barrier Reef boasts about 100 coral species and at least 500 types of fish. Picture by Michael Turtle
But I get the feeling that, although he's been doing this for years, this is not a job that gets boring. Every day is different and you never know what you're going to find when you're here in the Caribbean Sea, exploring the Belize Barrier Reef.
We're setting off from one of the reef's main islands, Caye Caulker. Spelt 'cayes' and pronounced 'keys', the hundreds of islands protruding from the water have been formed over many years by the sediment from coral and animals. Many are just undeveloped specks - like the one we're heading to for the morning - but others are large enough to support townships.
Some of the islands are mere specks. Picture by Michael Turtle
Nearby Ambergris Caye has a population of about 15,000 people in the region's main town of San Pedro, along with plenty of luxury hotels. Caye Caulker on the other hand has only about 2000 residents and much more affordable places to stay. The atmosphere is relaxed with bars in the sand serving cold beers and cheap seafood. There are colourful pastel huts and beach volleyball in the golden afternoon.
While some people come just to relax, the highlight of Caye Caulker... or Ambergris Caye... or Belize, for that matter... is the reef.
Caye Caulker in the golden afternoon light. Picture by Michael Turtle
The Belize Barrier Reef may not be as famous as Australia's Great Barrier Reef but it's actually the second largest in the world, stretching for about 300 kilometres down the coast of the Central American country. It's also one of the most biodiverse, with about a hundred coral species and at least 500 types of fish (not to mention turtles, manatees, and all sorts of other sea life).
My exploration of these vibrant underwater landscapes begins from the shore of a small island where we've moored the boat. Pulling on the goggles and snorkel, I put my head under the water. The sound of the squawking birds and the sea wind disappears and is replaced by the dull hum of submerging.
Exploring the underwater paradise. Picture by Michael Turtle
All around me are small mountains of coral, the valleys in between them full of schools of fish swimming along like underwater highways. The sun shines through and I can see the dominant hues of green, purple, brown, and blue. Here, these are the colours of a healthy reef.
When we leave the island and sail into deeper waters, I jump off the boat and enter the marine ecosystem again. This time, larger fish swim gracefully by, their colours and patterns glittering in the light. Smaller fish, seemingly alone, dart about between the rocks. Nurse sharks rise up from their resting place in the sand and circle around me in a way that would seem threatening if I didn't know they were harmless. A pack of stingrays glides past, their wings slowly flapping and their tales sticking out behind.
No need to be alarmed. Picture by Michael Turtle
The Belize Barrier Reef is clearly an important tourist attraction - probably the most important in the country - but there's much more to it than just that. It is also a national symbol, intertwined with the heritage and the people. It's estimated about 200,000 Belizeans are in some way dependent on the reef for their livelihood, not just in tourism. And this is why Belize's government is now making such an effort to look after the reef... after a troubling conservation period.
In 2009, UNESCO added the Belize Barrier Reef to the List of World Heritage in Danger, which is for sites that are under severe threat (many of the 56 that are currently on the list are in conflict zones like Ukraine, Palestine, and Libya). The stated reason was because of "concerns about sales of lands for private development within the property, mangrove destruction, and offshore oil extraction". In other words, the ecology of the fragile reef was being trumped by big business.
The population of Caye Caulker is about 2000. Picture by Michael Turtle
The decision by UNESCO was obviously a wake-up call and, within a few years, the government of Belize was actively addressing these concerns, with small and large projects, including implementing a permanent ban of oil drilling in all Belize's offshore waters. When you put your head below the surface, you can see immediately the effect it's had - clean water, healthy coral, abundant animals. In 2018, UNESCO took the Belize Barrier Reef off the danger list, describing it as "a pivotal moment for the World Heritage Convention and the oceans."
This environmental campaign has also had an effect in Belize of instilling a newfound sense of pride in the reef amongst the population. In a similar way to how Australians see the Great Barrier Reef as part of our national identity, the Belizeans now see the Belize Barrier Reef as a representation of their patriotism.
And for tourists, the reef is reason enough to visit. Belize is a long way from Australia and few of us get here each year, but if you do make it, you'll find an incredible blend of Central American and Caribbean cultures within a safe English-speaking environment. On the mainland, there are Mayan ruins hidden in the jungle, caves you can spend all day exploring, and rich cultures happy to share their music and food. But it's on the cayes and in the water where you'll find the real pride of Belize.
Words by Michael Turtle Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in televisionto travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-knownplaces, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals
along the way.
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