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Enter the dragon: When science catches up with folklore

Enter the dragon: When science catches up with folklore

Nikkei Asia03-07-2025
One of the Komodo dragons encountered by the author on a recent trip to Indonesia's Komodo Island. (Photo by Andrew Benfield)
ANDREW BENFIELD
"Here be dragons" was a poetic turn of phrase used by cartographers in the past to indicate terra incognita. But it was unwittingly accurate on one 16th-century map of what is now Indonesia. Though the area in question was unexplored by Europeans at the time, it was already well traveled by local people, who had long known it as Nusa Nipa, or Dragon Island.
When Europeans arrived at the island's coastal villages to trade, they heard tales of fearsome beasts lurking inland, but dismissed them as fairy tales and folklore. It was only centuries later, when a curious Dutch colonial officer traveled to the interior and returned carrying the dead body of a Komodo dragon, that outsiders realized the locals had been telling the truth all along.
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Katsu Kaishu: The Man Who Saved Edo from the Flames
Katsu Kaishu: The Man Who Saved Edo from the Flames

Metropolis Japan

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  • Metropolis Japan

Katsu Kaishu: The Man Who Saved Edo from the Flames

It was at a bend in the path that he first caught a glimpse of the water, a blue sliver that flashed through a gap in the trees, then vanished behind thick green curtains. The man looked to the path ahead. It was a long way back to Edo Castle, leading his modest retinue through the hills west of the capital to the hilltop temple of Honmonji. His porters and retainers had carried the necessities of the delegation. Still, the burden that he shouldered had weighed far more on him that day. The path found a canal for a time, then crested over a hill where still water spread out before them. Trees and clusters of reeds hemmed the pond, with herons stalking the shallows and ducks drifting across the surface. Across the pond, there was a small temple in the midst of a bamboo grove. The man called a halt, telling his men to wait. He approached the edge of the pond where he noticed a Buddhist monk standing in the water, scrubbing his legs. 'What is this place called?' he asked. 'Senzoku Ike,' replied the monk, beckoning him forward. 'It is said that the great priest Nichiren once washed his feet here hundreds of years ago—that's why it carries this name.' The man removed his waraji, straw sandals, and tabi socks to step into the pond beside the monk. As the water cooled his aching feet, he felt the flames that had raged all day through his heart and soul begin to abate at last. The Samurai Who Rose to Advise the Shogun Katsu Kaishu lived one of the most remarkable lives of the nineteenth century, but he is little known outside Japan. Unlike Sakamoto Ryoma or Saigo Takamori, Katsu is not remembered for military victories or defeats, but rather averted what might have been one of the most cataclysmic battles in the country's history. Katsu had risen from a low-ranking samurai family to become a trusted adviser to the Tokugawa regime. Following the end of sakoku (Japan's isolation period), Katsu was among the first to understand the importance of naval technology. This fascination even led to his nickname Kaishu—formed from the Japanese kanji for 'sea' (海) and 'boat' (舟). A Voyage Across the Pacific Having learned Dutch as a young man, Katsu was able to study at the Nagasaki Naval Academy from 1855-59 under Dutch naval officers. His education there led to a truly remarkable adventure in 1860, when Katsu was selected as captain of the Kanrin Maru. The Kanrin Maru was a steam-driven warship that would undertake Japan's first-ever embassy to the United States. He shared the ship with American and Japanese sailors as well as the great diplomat, scholar and reformer Fukuzawa Yukichi. Also onboard was John Manjiro — an Edo-period castaway rescued by an American ship and the embassy's interpreter. John, being unable to return to Japan under sakoku, was taught to speak English in America. Katsu and his crew arrived in San Francisco just after the end of the Gold Rush. They traveled by train to Washington, D.C., for diplomatic meetings and ratification of the Harris Treaty. Katsu himself spent considerable time in San Francisco gaining first-hand knowledge of American society and advances in modern technology. He was then given increasingly prominent roles within the Tokugawa shogunate, primarily related to the developing navy, after returning to Japan. As civil unrest raged across Japan through the 1860s, Katsu found himself increasingly employed as a negotiator. He convinced the rebellious ronin Sakamoto Ryoma not to assassinate him and to embrace Western modernization efforts. This ultimately strengthened Japan and brokered numerous other deals between warring factions. The Day Edo Stood on the Brink of Destruction None was more consequential than that fateful day—April 9, 1868—when Katsu and his retinue traveled from central Edo to Honmonji Temple, with Japan embroiled in the Boshin War. The forces of the Imperial Army, commanded by Saigo Takamori, had surrounded Edo. Supporters of the ailing Tokugawa shogunate holed up in the capital's central castle. As Katsu stepped into Honmonji's ancient halls, he must have known that his words that day could fan the flames of war that would burn his city to the ground. At one dark moment, he and his advisors even considered torching Edo themselves rather than submitting to the enemy. In the end, he chose peace, dousing the fire with the bittersweet rains of surrender. While we cannot know what Katsu thought as he passed by Senzoku-Ike, the pond did leave a lasting impression on him. Not only did he retire there in a home built alongside the water, but he and his wife, Tami, are buried there in graves that you can visit to this day. The nearby Katsu Kaishu Memorial Museum also contains many personal items as well as detailed displays on his life.

Edging Toward Japan: Expressing Solidarity with the 'Expo Lady'
Edging Toward Japan: Expressing Solidarity with the 'Expo Lady'

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Edging Toward Japan: Expressing Solidarity with the 'Expo Lady'

It was in the news recently that that a woman, Tomiyo Yamada, 76, colloquially known as the "Expo Lady" ("Banpaku Obaasan") had managed not only to attend the Osaka Expo every day since it opened in April, but also to gain admittance to every single one of the 188 pavilions. The last one to succumb was the Netherlands Pavilion, which commemorated her arrival with a special welcome from the Dutch Consul General and the presentation of a "Miffy" soft toy. She intends to keep visiting every day until the final day of the Expo in October. News reports noted that that this was the latest in a series of Expo conquests by the indomitable lady, who had also attended every day of Expo 2005 in her native prefecture of Aichi, as well as the opening days of the expos in Shanghai and Yeosu, South Korea, and even moved, together with her husband and son, to a flat close to the Expo site in December last year. It's tempting to scoff at the battiness of such obsessive behaviour, but I found myself quietly admiring her. For one thing, I must confess that I rather share her enthusiasm for expos. I have noted a lot of jaded attitudes towards the Osaka Expo: "A waste of billions of dollars that could have been better spent elsewhere" is how one friend dismissed it, while telling me it wasn't his cup of tea. But I think the Osaka Expo is absolutely great. I went there on two consecutive days, walked my legs and hips into oblivion, and only got round less than half of it. If I had the time and money, I think I would make Facebook friends with the Expo Lady and keep going back every day as well. How can you not like the Expo? It's like having the ability to travel round the entire world in a single day, exploring countries you might never be able to get to in real life and finding out a little about their regions, foods, traditions, clothing, industries and hopes for the future. One minute you are in Uzbekistan, the next minute in Belize, and then you are in a display of a country you never even knew existed (apologies, Palau). You discover that Hungary and Japan are connected in ways you never expected. In this alternate universe, the real size of different countries and their populations is often disproportionate to the size, magnificence and inventiveness of their pavilions, and their contents often disconnected to anything you would expect. Spain, that hot dry country, has a display entirely devoted to oceanic ecosystems; Australia has weirdly gesticulating dancers on skateboards. So fantastical and fascinating was everything I saw over the course of two days that I never wanted to leave. I felt exactly the same about the last Osaka Expo way back in 1990, which continues to reign in my memory as a dreamscape of magical gardens and lush pavilions. It's been worth the wait for the Expo to come home to Osaka once more. But setting aside just for a moment my own enthusiasm for expos, I also have a sneaking regard for the Expo Lady in a different way as a next-level obsessive. The obsessives of this world often instinctively grasp that imbuing significance and attachment to something seemingly trivial can invest their own lives with purpose and meaning and sometimes yield the most spectacular results. I am reminded of the film "The Lost King", in which a middle-aged lady at a loose end after losing her job randomly conceives an interest in the English Plantagenet King Richard III (r. 1483-85), whose final resting place after being killed in battle had been a centuries' long mystery. She decides to obsessively read every book she can about him and attend meetings of other enthusiasts, until finally her pursuit leads her to actually working out where his body is buried (under a car park). As she heads into a bookshop at the start of her journey, the film's director cleverly inserts in the shop window a copy of "Moby Dick", the ultimate tale of an all-consuming pursuit around the world of a "White Whale". For the Expo Lady, the Expo itself is her "White Whale", but instead of chasing round after it on the high seas, she merely does daily circuits of a pretty, artificial island in Osaka Bay. Properly speaking the Expo Lady is a subset of the Obsessive genre known as the "Completionist". And again, my sympathies and admiration are entirely with her. We may not all have posted a map of the world on our wall and put pins in every country we have visited, but most of us have some kind of mental checklist of the places we have got to and know where we still need to tick off before we kick the bucket. A former British finance minister -- a fellow of no particular abilities or interest -- once gripped my attention when he revealed that he was spending his retirement attempting to visit every country in South America. This is the type of thing which every completionist can appreciate. Ticking things off, collecting things, getting a full set of something, these are all activities that human beings seem to be curiously drawn to. For many years I tended to fly back and forth to Japan with the Dutch carrier KLM. In my 20s and 30s, I flew so many times with them that my air miles built up and, joy of joys, I could finally upgrade myself every now and then to business class. It's a ritual of business class travel with KLM that at the end of the journey the cabin crew come round and offer you one of their mini Delft Blue Dutch Houses (modelled on 105 real historical houses in Amsterdam) filled with Bols liquor. Whenever I used to receive one of these, I would take it home, crack open the seal on the chimney and drink it. Only when I had collected seven or eight of them did someone point out to me that I wasn't supposed to be drinking them: I was supposed to be collecting them. The next time I wangled my way into business class, I observed a besuited executive take out a notebook with the list of dozens of numbers of all the mini houses he had collected so that he could carefully choose one that he did not already possess. I began to realize what an absolute amateur I was in the world of completionist collecting, merely picking out a Dutch house based on a vague memory of the ones I already had. If you can't beat them, join them... Soon I too was showing up with the numbers of Dutch houses I already had at home, intent on adding a couple more to the set. And then, just when I had built up a small collection, I stopped flying as much and was peremptorily returned to economy on an almost permanent basis. For most of us in life, we are lucky if we get to one or two South American countries, lucky to have a couple of pretty Dutch houses as souvenirs of travelling business class, lucky to spend a couple of days at Osaka Expo... But we can surely summon up admiration for those who refuse to compromise, who want the full set, and manage like the Expo Lady to get round all 188 pavilions. When she got into the Dutch Pavilion, my only regret is that the Dutch Consul General did not present her -- instead of a silly "Miffy" toy -- with the full set of 105 Delft Blue Dutch houses. That would have been a truly suitable presentation to the amazing Expo Lady, that most superbly accomplished hunter of the White Whale. @DamianFlanagan (This is Part 66 of a series) In this column, Damian Flanagan, a researcher in Japanese literature, ponders about Japanese culture as he travels back and forth between Japan and Britain. Profile: Damian Flanagan is an author and critic born in Britain in 1969. He studied in Tokyo and Kyoto between 1989 and 1990 while a student at Cambridge University. He was engaged in research activities at Kobe University from 1993 through 1999. After taking the master's and doctoral courses in Japanese literature, he earned a Ph.D. in 2000. He is now based in both Nishinomiya, Hyogo Prefecture, and Manchester. He is the author of "Natsume Soseki: Superstar of World Literature" (Sekai Bungaku no superstar Natsume Soseki).

Enter the dragon: When science catches up with folklore
Enter the dragon: When science catches up with folklore

Nikkei Asia

time03-07-2025

  • Nikkei Asia

Enter the dragon: When science catches up with folklore

One of the Komodo dragons encountered by the author on a recent trip to Indonesia's Komodo Island. (Photo by Andrew Benfield) ANDREW BENFIELD "Here be dragons" was a poetic turn of phrase used by cartographers in the past to indicate terra incognita. But it was unwittingly accurate on one 16th-century map of what is now Indonesia. Though the area in question was unexplored by Europeans at the time, it was already well traveled by local people, who had long known it as Nusa Nipa, or Dragon Island. When Europeans arrived at the island's coastal villages to trade, they heard tales of fearsome beasts lurking inland, but dismissed them as fairy tales and folklore. It was only centuries later, when a curious Dutch colonial officer traveled to the interior and returned carrying the dead body of a Komodo dragon, that outsiders realized the locals had been telling the truth all along.

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