Aesop And Celine Barel Rethink Spring Florals With Aurner
Aurner Eau de Parfum
With their aromatic, herbaceous and woody signature, Aesop fragrances are an ideal reach for spring, the season of nature's quiet renewal. The brand's emphasis on plant-based ingredients and high-grade essential oils often deliver quirky compositions that evoke nature in the most elevated way. Although florals like jasmine, peony and rose often dominate spring fragrance trays, Aesop redefines the floral category with its latest launch Aurer Eau de Parfum, a perfume that features the underused magnolia and spotlights the flower's leaves as the the main olfactive component.
Aurner Eau de Parfum is a surprising floral fragrance built on unexpected contrasts, balancing subtlety and strength. It opens with a bright burst of citrus and pepper for an uplifting start followed by the delicate freshness of the magnolia leaf and Roman camomile at the heart. A grounding base of cedar and sandalwood adds warmth and elegance. The result is a delicate yet earthy floral veil that feels lighter and more ethereal than some of Aesop's traditional offerings yet with increased longevity. Designed to broaden Aesop's olfactive range, Aurner continues the brand's signature unorthodox approach to florals. It joins the nuanced rose-patchouli blend of Rōzu (2019) and the spicy freshness of Gloam (2023) bridging both floral and fresh fragrance families.
Master Perfumer Celine Barel
Celbrated IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances) perfumer Celine Barel is the nose behind the fragrance and is also responsible for the brand's wildly popular citrus perfume Tacit-a composition inspired by the Mediterranean coast that features a bracing combinations of yuzu and basil. Barel was born and raised in Grasse, long regarded as the heart of perfumery and spent part of her childhood in Morocco. Her time in the cedar forest of the Atlas Mountains fostered a deep appreciation for cedarwood, a note that continues to inspire her work. Her compositions are often nature-inspired reflecting the bucolic environments that shaped her sensory world.
Her creations regularly feature an innovative use of woods as is the case with Aurner. She notes,
'Aurner's earthy character comes from the strong woody back notes. To create this, I used classic woods but treated it with innovative distillation techniques such as fraction distillation, crystallization, or upcycled distillation waters, that offer new olfactive facets of the woods.'
Fraction distillation is a precise distillation method that separates a raw essential oil into 'fractions' based on boiling points, in perfumery this is used to isolate specific scent molecules from complex materials such as cedarwood and sandalwood. This yields a cleaner, more refined scent. In the case of Aurner, the cedar base note still retains its distinct character but feels lighter and more transparent.
Aurner's nuanced profile contrasts the fragility of florals with the strength of woods thanks to Celine's deft touch and is sure to be a hit among floral fragrance lovers who lean towards fresh unisex scent profiles. Its airy texture and addictive dry down make it a workhorse of a fragrance suitable for all occasions and seasons.
Fans of Aurner should also explore Barel's broader body of work which features similarly naturalistic profiles and her signature restrained approach. She often cites a quote from Antoine de Saint-Exupery as a guiding principle in her creative process: "Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing else to add, but when there is nothing else to be removed.' This minimalist principle runs through her work, resulting in fragrances that feel effortless yet refined. Here are three of her latest and greatest.
Maison D'Etto Durban Jane
Maison d'Etto Durban Jane
Notes Barel, 'Durban Jane strongly evokes the love, care, and nuzzly feeling of healing with animals that founder Brianna Lipovsky wanted to express. It was another take on an intimate, skin fragrance. Some start with linen or the smell of a newborn baby, we started with horses.' At its heart is a soft velvety orris accord gently accented by just the right touch of pink pepper for warmth and texture. This one is quietly a show- stopper.
Andrea Maack Flux
Andrea Maack Flux
This collaboration with bold Icelandic founder Andrea Maack is another forest-inspired masterpiece this time pairing the grounding woody facets of cedar and sequoia with the freshness of blueberries and mint. It feels like biting into a tart frozen fruit pop during a moonlit picnic on a mossy forest floor-cool, earthy and quietly surreal.
Zoologist Squid Delux Bottle
Zoologist Squid
This award winning aquatic fragrance is meant to evoke the deep sea with notes of pink pepper, black ink accord, benzoin and musk.
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