Pump Up The Posh: Three Ways To Do Istanbul In Style

Forbes

16-07-2025

Sprawling across the shores of two continents, Istanbul occupies one of the world's most spectacular ... More locations.
With more than 18 million visitors each year, Istanbul has emerged as one of the world's most popular urban destinations.
And rightfully so.
From world-famous landmarks like Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace to exquisite Turkish cuisine, exotic shopping and waterfront landscapes that rivals Sydney and San Francisco, the metropolis on the Bosporus is truly stunning.
The challenge is how to explore Istanbul in the utmost style. If money is no object, what are the best ways to stay, eat and move around? Read on to find out . . .
Transitioning from monarchs to mere mortals, the Çırağan Palace is now the all-suite wing of the ... More Kempinski Istanbul hotel. (Photo by Nicolas Economou)
Sleep in a Palace
The Ottoman Empire may have faded away a century ago, but the Bosporus waterway is still flanked by palaces once occupied by sultans and their families or high-ranking courtiers.
What does one do with an extravagant structure that no longer hosts royal residents? You transform it into a luxury hotel, of course.
Like the Çırağan Palace, which now serves as the all-suite wing of the Kempinski Istanbul along the waterfront of the Yıldız neighborhood. Originally constructed in the 1860s for Sultan Abdulaziz, the flamboyant wood-and-marble structure was later gutted by fire but reincarnated in the 1990s as a luxury hotel. Paying homage to the past, the design reflects the European-inspired, over-the-top style of the late Ottoman period.
The über-elegant Peninsula Istanbul sprawls through four buildings on the Karaköy waterfront including two historic Ottoman structures and the old Yolcu Salonu steamship terminal, a Bauhaus-style building opened in 1940. There's plenty to love about this five-star abode, from an atrium lobby lounge and restaurant where seagoing passengers once took their first steps in Istanbul to the waterfront infinity pool, a private motor yacht for Bosporus tours, and an 'Academy' program featuring private guided tours with themes like Istanbul 007, Ottoman Art, and Photo Walk. The spacious suites come with views that encompass Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and Asia on the other side of the strait.
Ironically the city's most famous 'palace' was never a royal residence. Opened in 1895, the Pera Palace Hotelwas designed specifically to host passengers arriving in Istanbul aboard a brand-new transcontinental train service called the Orient Express. State of the art for the era, the Pera was the first in Constantinople (as the city was still called in those days) to feature an electric elevator and hot running water. All these years later, it's still a pretty posh place to crash.
Blue tiles and iconic Turkish cuisine at the historic Pandeli Restaurant on the upper level of ... More Istanbul's Egyptian Spice Bazaar. (Photo by Esra Bilgin)
Feast Like a Sultan
One of the world's great culinary traditions, Turkish food offers an array of tastes and textures that reflect its position on the cusp of Middle East and Southern Europe. And it doesn't get any better than Istanbul, a crossroads that's been attracting foodies since Roman times.
The problem (if you can call it that) is deciding where to dine among the city's 15,000 restaurants. Yet there are some that stand out among the crowd.
Michelin devotees head for Turk Fatih Tutak, a modern two-star eatery in the high-rise Bomonti neighborhood on the periphery of central Istanbul. Under the guidance of chef/owner Fatih Tutak, the open-plan kitchen creates an ever-changing Micro Seasonal Tasting Menu that reinterprets traditional Turkish recipes in modern ways. This adventure in eating normally lasts around three hours.
At the opposite end of the Istanbul dining spectrum is Pandeli in the Egyptian Spice Bazaar near the Galata Bridge. Opened in 1901 during the waning days of the Ottoman era, the restaurant is renowned for both its vintage blue-and-white décor and traditional dishes like döner kebab, lamb shank, and stuffed vine leaves. Pandeli boasts a single Michelin star. Yet perhaps a better recommendation is a long list of discerning diners that includes Audrey Hepburn, Queen Elizabeth II and Kemal Atatürk.
Another atmospheric eatery is Olden 1772, which occupies the gorgeously restored courtyard of an 18th-century han (caravanserai) near the spice bazaar. Besides what is arguably the most impressive bar in Istanbul, the restaurant is incredibly romantic whether you're dropping in for lunch or dinner or innovative craft cocktails like the Çeşni (Johnnie Walker Black Ruby, black mulberry molasses, lemon juice, Chambord raspberry liqueur and yoghurt cream).
For a deeper dive into vintage Ottoman cuisine, ferry across the Bosporus to Kadıköy and make your way through the warren of fish and produce stalls to Çiya Sofrası. Owner Musa Dağdeviren is both a chef and a culinary detective who scours Türkiye for bygone recipes and ingredients for dishes like Blessed Thistle with Lamb, Veal Shank with Quince, and Wild Purslane with Black-Eyed Peas.
The Turkish version of tapas, mezze reaches heavenly heights at Karaköy Lokantası, a Michelin one-star establishment near the new Galataport development. The super-popular eatery (be sure to make a reservation) offers more than 80 small plates in a chic, modern dining room wrapped in glass and glazed tiles. Among the highlights are seafood dishes like salted bonito, stuffed mussels and tarama fish roe paste — especially tasty with a shot of top-shelf raki.
Olden 1772 restaurant and bar occupies the restored main courtyard of an 18th-century "han" ... More (caravanserai).
Escaping the Crowds
Istanbul's iconic sights get incredibly crowded. Yet there are ways to beat at least part of the crowd. The official websites for both Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace offer links to a Get Your Guide website listing local agencies with guided tours of the historic structures that include a 'fast pass' to skip the long lines to purchase tickets outside these venues.
Both of those landmarks are also included in a smartphone Istanbul Tourist Pass that offers admission to more than 100 major sights and museums around the city.
Istanbul's streets and public transport are also notoriously crowded. All of the major sights on the peninsula (Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, Topkapi Palace) are within easy walking distance of one another. But elsewhere, getting around can be a major pain.
Luxury transport services offer a quick and easy solution. While agencies like Istanbul Limousine specialize in getting you to/from the airport, they also hire cars and drivers by the hour, day or even a week for touring the city. Rates fluctuate depending on the vehicle, from an ordinary sedan or van at the lower end to a Mercedes Sprinter or S Class sedan at the higher end.
It even gets crowded on the water, a multitude of jam-packed tourist boats flitting up and down the Bosporus. The alternative is chartering your own boat with a skipper and staff, as well as drinks and snacks. That way you can venture anywhere along the fabled waterway and cruise for as long as you like. Private Istanbul Cruise boasts a fleet or sleek motor yachts that can be hired for two hours or more.
Escape the crowds by hiring a private boat for a couple of hours to cruise up and down the Bosporus ... More at your leisure.