Max Coen Wants Dorian To Feel Fun, Comfortable And Cozy

Forbes

4 days ago

Modern British restaurant Dorian is arguably one of the hardest reservations to snag in London. Beloved by celebrities and locals alike, it's known for its cozy atmosphere and incredible menu that emphasizes local British produce. Created by Max Coen, the restaurant garned its first Michelin star in 2024 and has since retained its status as one of the best restaurants in London.
'Starting, Dorian felt like stepping into the world of the unknown,' says Coen in an interview with Forbes. 'It was my first restaurant and my first head chef position, so I didn't really know exactly what I was meant to do. As time went on, I realized I knew instinctively what the right thing to do was. Looking back, I feel like I made a lot of correct decisions, but mistakes are only natural and are the best way to learn. Those learning challenges are what make us stronger going forward.'
Before opening Dorian, Coen previously worked in numerous fine dining kitchens with Michelin stars, including Frantzén and Ikoyi. This Notting Hill venture is Coen's first solo restaurant. 'The idea was always to create a restaurant with the greatest quality of cooking, led by the most talented individuals throughout the team, but never to compromise on the coziness and warmth, always avoiding being labelled as pretentious,' he says. 'We are set on positioning ourselves within the elevated bistronomy sector of hospitality, where we can connect the high-end dining experience to the beauty of the cooking and dishes."
On that same notion, Coen also worked in some rigorous kitchens and knew he wanted to create an incredible working environment. He wanted to bring in people who would surround us with positivity and help him create the best restaurant that he possibly could.
'I think the main lesson that I wanted to bring to Dorian and to my own life is that it's very important to be able to empower people.'For Coen, cooking fills the hole of satisfaction that he had when he was searching for what to do with his future. 'It's an extreme passion as well as an obsession, and I always say to people asking me about whether they should get into cooking or not is to decide or realize if you are obsessed with it,' explains Coen. 'If not, then I think it is really difficult; it engulfs your life, with such inundated feelings, it must leave you feeling positive when you reflect; otherwise, it could be extremely draining.'
Compared to other Michelin ventures, Dorian stands out for its relaxed atmosphere. 'Everything we do at Dorian is fun,' says Coen. 'The service, food and team are all built on the idea of enjoyment and creating a room full of playfulness and enjoyment.'
According to Coen, the menu was created off of three main keywords: delicious, thoughtful and meaningful. 'Thoughtful in the way I approach writing the menu and creating dishes, each component is deeply considered, but it's always rooted in deliciousness in a relaxed, unpretentious manner,' he says.
One of the main pillars of Dorian is emphasizing and using locally sourced produce. In order to do this, Coen strives to work with local producers who can provide the restaurant with the best version of an ingredient, regardless of whether it is a piece of fish or a broad bean. 'We're constantly on the search for the farm or fisherman who can guarantee us, firstly, the desired product, but most importantly, the best version of it,' he says. 'We may have 3 farms that have broad beans available, but we need to understand which has the best handling practices, growing methods, and, therefore, the beans' flavor and texture.'
At the helm of the success of Dorian, Coen is now working on his next venture, a Japanese bistro that will open at the end of the year. The spot will focus on hot Japanese with a small amount of raw ingredients. It will be led by a chef who used to work at Dorian called Yuji Shimokawa.