Spain's Olive Oil Route is a slick way to visit the region

The Star

16-07-2025

Olive trees dominate the Andalusian landscape, stretching out as far as the eye can see on either side of our path.
And when Antonio Bermudez tells us how many there are, all jaws drop. The region is home to 66 million gnarled and twisted trees, some of which are 600 years old. 'They were here before Columbus set sail for America,' he says.
The area in the southern Spanish province of Jaen is also known as the sea of olives, and is one of the largest olive growing regions in the world. Bermudez's job is to navigate his guests through this sea, by bike along the Via Verde del Aceite.
Known as the 'Olive Oil Route', it's a 128km hiking and cycling trail that leads from Jaen to the town of Puente Genil, about 70km south of Cordoba. On the Via Verde del Aceite you can discover Spain's quieter side, away from the big cities and busy coastal resorts.
Bermudez gets on his bike. Many of his guests, who come from all over the world, go on day trips that they combine with hiking or sightseeing. In Jaen, which is the start and end point of the route, there is a grand Renaissance-style cathedral and Arab baths that are among the best preserved across the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Waterfalls and rugged rocks are typical in the Sierras Subbeticas National Park.
The original Andalusia
Others decide to cycle along longer stretches of the route, booking a luggage shuttle service. Bermudez says the section from Martos, a small mountainside town with medieval fortifications, is 'particularly beautiful'.
It's around 60km from there to Cabra and 75km to Lucena, two small towns on the edge of the Sierras Subbeticas mountain range.
'You can look at the route as a sports challenge and do the whole thing quickly,' says Bermudez. But he suggests taking your time to get to know the original Andalusia.
'After all,' he says with a grin, '... it has much more to offer than just olive trees.'
There is the town of Alcaudete, for example. Accessible via a 6km side road, it's home to one of the best-restored fortresses in Spain, a commanding castle of the Calatrava Order. Or the mountain village of Zuheros, whose whitewashed houses are perched on a rocky cliff above the cycle path.
The village regularly makes it onto a list of the most beautiful villages in Spain.
Right next door is the Sierras Subbeticas Natural Park, which is famous for its rugged peaks, waterfalls and the Cueva de los Murcielagos, a prehistoric cave that's home to different types of bat. It's open to visitors, making it ideal for a change from a morning sitting in the saddle.
Disused railway lines
Along the Olive Oil Route, ponies turn to look at the tourists as they cycle by and the scent of rosemary and wild flowers fills the air. You pass flocks of sheep, while cuckoos call down from the treetops.
'Nature is one of our greatest treasures,' says Bermudez. It's something you realise over and over again while cycling along the route.
The Olive Oil Route is one of Spain's Via Verdes or Green Routes. The name doesn't betray the fact that these are former railway lines. Around 30 years ago, disused lines across the country began to be turned into hiking and cycling trails that are closed to motor vehicles.
Trains couldn't handle major climbs, which means today's cycle paths are fairly flat, making them ideal for all age groups, from families with children to senior citizens.
There are now more than 3,400km of former railways throughout Spain that you can explore by bike or on foot, divided into around 135 sections or connecting routes.
Under the patronage of the Spanish Railway Foundation, care has been taken to preserve the traces of railway history. Around 125 former train stations now house bars or guest houses, tourist information centres, museums and bike hire shops.
A view of Alcaudete from the castle of the Calatrava order.
Viaducts with a view
Converted stations can also be found along the Olive Oil Route. In Dona Mencia, part of the province of Cordoba, the station building is now a restaurant. Next door is Antonio Camacho bike rental business, located in a former oil warehouse.
From the end of the 19th century, the route was mainly used to transport olive oil from the production areas of Jaen and Curdoba to the ports on the Mediterranean.
'The last railway line was taken out of service in 1985,' says Camacho. Since the turn of the millennium, different sections have gradually been transformed into cycle paths.
'The great thing is that cyclists can discover traces of the past all along the route,' he says. At Cabra station, for example, historic trains are a reminder of the line's history.
In other sections, cyclists can expect tunnels, railway bridges and viaducts from the 19th century – they are among the most beautiful sections.
'If you find yourself cycling high up on one of the steel bridges, pause for a moment and take in the landscape,' Camacho says.
The view consists of rivers, rugged mountains and whitewashed villages – and above all the sea of olive trees that give the route its name and its powerful appeal. – ALEXANDRA FRANK/dpa