Southern Europe bakes and burns, turning holiday hotspots into infernos
Tourists who hoped to idle on Croatian beaches this week will have instead singed their feet on scorching sand. Families on a break in Madrid will have choked on smoke from a deadly wildfire that ripped through a suburb of the Spanish capital. Visitors to Mount Vesuvius in Italy will have been turned away from the trails as firefighters battled blazes on the volcano's slopes.
And then there are campers in south-west France, where 40% of selected weather stations recorded heat above 40C on Monday, who may have wished they had stayed home.
Fierce heat is scorching southern Europe for the second time this summer, breaking temperature records and fuelling wildfires that have forced thousands of people across several countries to flee their homes.
The heatwave, which has been made longer and stronger by the blanket of fossil fuel pollution that smothers the Earth, has struck during the holiday season when tourist-dependent economies in the Mediterranean and the Balkans are most exposed to variations in weather.
For locals and visitors alike, the formerly Instagram-friendly views now seem apocalyptic. Firefighters are tackling fierce blazes in countries from Portugal to Turkey, and the infernos are known to have killed people in France, Spain, Albania, Montenegro and Greece.
Across the continent, black smoke is darkening blood-red skies.
'We are being cooked alive,' said Alexandre Favaios, the mayor of Vila Real, in northern Portugal. 'This cannot continue.'
Wildfires in Europe burned more than 400,000 hectares in the first seven months of 2025, according to data published by EU fire scientists on Tuesday. Although it is not the worst the continent has seen for this time of year, the burned area is 87% greater than the average over the last two decades.
In the coming week, the scientists warned, 'extreme to very extreme conditions' for fire weather will persist. They project 'particularly severe' risks in much of southern Europe, as well as high anomalies in parts of the Nordics.
'We are at extreme risk of forest fires,' the Spanish prime minister Pedro Sánchez warned on Tuesday. 'Please be very cautious.'
Feeling the heat
I have felt the fear that wildfires can instil in an absent-minded tourist. At a Portuguese friend's wedding in 2022, by a lake in the rural centre of the country, a nearby forest fire forced us to head indoors early so helicopters could fill buckets with fresh water to battle the blaze. The next day, as we lounged in the outdoor pool of a holiday home, white soot rained down on us like snow.
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The hot ashes had been lifted up by plumes of smoke that grew redder and redder as the fire came closer. After some fretting among the group, one friend with a newborn baby decided it was time to leave, so we fled to the coast. We drove past locals, mostly retired, who stood outside their homes and watched in horror as flames drew near.
Wildfires kill hundreds of people around the world each year – a death toll far lower than that from floods, which kill thousands, and from heatwaves, which kill hundreds of thousands. But factor in the smoke and the human cost rises rapidly. The latest research estimates that the air pollution spewed by wildfires kills a staggering 1.5 million people globally each year.
There are economic costs, too. As southern Europe bakes and burns each summer, tourists who cannot travel out of season are starting to abandon traditional holiday destinations in favour of 'coolcations' farther north that beat the heat.
Even that strategy will have led to some disappointment this summer. At the start of the month, a heatwave hit cool Nordic countries and sent temperatures north of the Arctic Circle to a staggering 32-33C. 'Truly unprecedented' was how one meteorologist described the heatwave.
The upshot is that flight shame might not be what keeps people from holidaying far from home as the planet heats up. Instead, it could be the rising cost of travel as Europe's once-stable climate violently breaks down.
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All Spaniards know that some of the country's most spectacular beaches are dotted along the north coast, and the small region of Cantabria is no exception. Just 20 miles east around the bay from lively Santander, Langre combines a refreshingly out-of-the-way rural setting, rippling green fields and two golden sweeps of sand curled beneath the cliffs — classic Cantabria. Both Langre beaches front the open Bay of Biscay, making this a favourite spot among local surfers (take care with the currents). From Santander, pick up the A8 autovía then the CA-146 and wiggle north following Langre signs until you hit the coast, where steep steps lead down to the sand. Pack a picnic and everything you need for a day at la playa. Chic, adults-only hideaway Le Petit Boutique Hotel sits just a short stroll from Santander's old town and the city's beloved Sardinero beach — a long, sandy stretch dotted with cafés, restaurants and surf schools. There are just seven rooms, all of which take their design cues from various world cities, and while there's no restaurant, the team will be happy to recommend good spots nearby. Surrounded by southern Lanzarote's arid sun-baked landscapes, the wildly beautiful and undeveloped Punta del Papagayo promontory has some of the finest beaches in the Canary Islands. It sits within the protected Monumento Natural Los Ajaches reserve (pictured), just outside laid-back Playa Blanca. Lunar-like hills loom 500m tall behind a string of powdery, honey-coloured Atlantic coves framed by craggy, bare cliffs. Anyone driving should head a few miles southeast from Playa Blanca along a dusty track, but you can also hike here along the coast from Playa Blanca (or even further afield). The main Papagayo beach can get busy; arrive early, then wander over to Caleta del Congrio for more peace. The only facility around here is a breezy clifftop chiringuito, so bring snacks, water and beach gear. Kamezi Boutique Villas — a collection of 44 whitewashed beachfront abodes near Playa Blanca — combines the luxury of a hotel with the freedom of a private rental. When you're not floating in your private pool, you can float between the spa, gym and Michelin-starred restaurant, before grabbing your rental car from your private parking space and setting off to chase the sunset. • Best all-inclusive hotels in Lanzarote• Best luxury villas in Lanzarote The Marbella-centric Costa del Sol tends to bag the spotlight, but neighbouring Granada's Costa Tropical is a less-touristy treat for beach lovers. Playa de Cantarrijan is curled into one of its loveliest pockets, the Acantilados de Maro–Cerro Gordo nature reserve, where rugged coastal cliffs plunge into the turquoise water. This duo of silvery pebble-and-sand coves makes up one of Andalusia's original nudist beaches, though these days there's a mixed crowd. Popular chiringuito La Barraca is open pretty much year-round — perfect for some garlicky prawns with a tinto de verano (red wine cocktail) after a swim or some paddleboarding. For environmental reasons, private vehicles are banned from around mid-June to mid-September; hop on the shuttle bus or hike down to the beach (around a mile from the nearest parking). If you're looking to combine beach days with deep-dives into Granada's ever-evolving cultural scene, book a room at the turreted Gar Anat, in the city's hot-ticket Realejo neighbourhood. Built in the 17th century, this former inn for pilgrims now charms modern-day travellers with its literary-themed interiors, artisanal breakfasts and line-up of Alhambra excursions and flamenco experiences. This deserted stretch of cliff-backed golden sand is far away from roads and civilisation. Thanks to tricky access, Playa de Castilla doesn't attract crowds or families. Park under shady trees (look out for the Cuesta Maneli sign at kilometre 39), then climb the decked path to the top of the 110m-high Asperillo dunes, part of the protected Doñana National Park. You'll wind around pine trees, passing zingy yellow gorse, and after about 30 minutes you'll be rewarded with a glimpse of the Atlantic. Stairs take you down to an epic stretch of beach — sink your feet into the velvety soft sand and soak up the gold and cream-striped cliffs, footed by grass and wildflowers. There are rock pools for children to explore, but be aware that the beach is popular with naturists. Bring your own picnic as there's only a small beach bar. Bound for Seville and sad to leave the sea? Check into Hotel Alfonso XIII, a Luxury Collection Hotel, and make a beeline for the glorious pool, which is set against a backdrop of traditional tiles and Moorish arches. There's a pool restaurant on hand for drinks and light bites, but if it's fine dining you're after, make a reservation at the hotel's legendary Restaurante San Fernando. Additional reporting by Isabella Noble and Julie Alpine
Times
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- Times
National Trust closes Cornish beach voted one of world's best
For decades, Cornish locals and discerning tourists have enjoyed the stunning scenery and turquoise waters of Pedn Vounder beach. Voted one of the top ten most beautiful beaches in the world by and named as one of Britain's best beaches by The Times, Pedn Vounder is a short walk from the village of Treen, which lies about four miles east of Land's End. But this week, at the height of the summer tourist season, the National Trust has chosen to close the beach on health and safety grounds. To the consternation of locals and tourists alike, the conservation charity has roped off the cliff access path and erected a large red sign that reads: 'Danger. No access.'
