I expected a cliche resort stay in the Maldives, then I saw the reef
Standing outside Velana International Airport as we wait for our ride to the seaplane terminal, the Maldives' famed turquoise water instantly catches my eye.
Even between the chaos of tourists and the rumbling of suitcases, it looks incredible. 'Is water usually that colour?' I think to myself.
On the seaplane journey to The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort, I'm mesmerised by the colours of the ocean. Shades of blue bleed into one another like an oceanic mood ring. Dark blue at first, then electric teal as the lagoon takes shape before building up to crystalline turquoise shallows encircling each island.
The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort from the air. Picture: Ralf Tooten/Marriott
I make out faint traces of atolls: the circular formations of ancient volcanoes, sunken into the ocean. Over centuries, corals attached themselves around the rim, forming a reef. Inside the ring, a lagoon remains and sand gathers to transform into the stunning islands we see today.
There's only one thing on my mind: I can't wait to dive into the water.
Swimmer floats serenely above nurse sharks in Maldives
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Swimmer floats serenely above nurse sharks in Maldives
scene... more of a tourist in the Maldives floating blissfully above a school of nurse sharks.
Drone footage captured the serene... more ... more
Living wonder
The Westin sits within the Baa Atoll, the Maldives' first Unesco Biosphere Reserve, home to one of the richest marine ecosystems in the world. After getting sized up for snorkels and flippers, we're taken out for a snorkelling excursion.
'Are we sure this isn't man-made?' I ask Christy, my travel companion, as we glide past a neighbouring island. Brother Island looks too symmetrical, too lush, too perfect. Round, fluffy bushes on the outside, with palm trees springing up through the middle. As if someone had typed 'tropical island' into ChatGPT and hit 'generate'.
The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort and vibrant coral reef. Picture: Ralf Tooten/Marriott
Turns out it's all Mother Nature. Later that day, Harry, the resort's in-house marine biologist, explains how a single seed from a sea lettuce tree can float for years before finding a sandbank to call home. Over decades, it washes up and lays the groundwork for these idyllic islands.
During the snorkelling tour, we spot a ray, lazily grazing the ocean floor, technicolour parrotfish crunching on coral and my new favourite, the Picasso triggerfish. A fish so vibrant and distinct it could have been painted by the maestro himself.
The most unreal encounter is with a hawksbill turtle. Less than a metre beneath me, she glides gracefully and potters about the reef. I motion to Christy as quietly as I can so she can enjoy her without the rest of our group.
Sea turtles can be spotted in the Maldives' coral reefs.
Delicate reality
Throughout the tour, I can't help but spot coral that doesn't look as happy as it could be. The reality is, it's an environmental balancing act to keep the reef alive.
During a briefing with Harry, we learn that coral is an animal, not a rock. It relies on tiny organisms called zooxanthellae to survive. When water temperatures get too hot, coral expels these organisms and if the heat sticks around for more than four weeks, the coral dies.
But the reef isn't just about coral. Every creature has a role.
The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort: A diver's paradise.
Turtles act like lawnmowers, trimming seagrass to let enough light in for the coral to grow. Parrotfish clean coral by scraping the algae off and nibbling dead coral to make room for new growth. Overfish any particular species and the balance of this fragile ecosystem is thrown off.
Reports from NASA and the US Geological Survey reveal nearly 80 per cent of the Maldives could become uninhabitable by 2050 due to rising sea levels. That's just 25 years from now.
Everyone is fiercely protective of the reef and rightly so. Our snorkelling guide puts it best: 'You touch any of the marine life, you go back on the boat.' We nod. No arguments here.
Floating breakfast at The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort.
Stay for the reef
While the Maldives faces environmental challenges, efforts to protect it are well underway – often in the very places where you'll be sipping cocktails and watching sunsets.
Many resorts are implementing sustainability initiatives. The Westin, for example, uses solar energy to reduce its carbon footprint and has its own water purification and bottling plant on the island for all guests and dining needs. You can play your part by using reef-safe sunscreen, reducing single-use plastics and most importantly, respecting the reef as a living, breathing system.
The magic of the Maldives isn't just what you see from your villa. It's happening beneath the surface: sea turtles trimming the grass, parrotfish cleaning algae and corals building life in slow motion.
An overwater villa pool bedroom at The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort. Picture: Ralf Tooten/Marriott
Come for the overwater villas, the insane blues of the ocean and the surreal sunsets, but stay for the reef. For the quiet wonder of an ecosystem still very much alive. I came for the cliche and left as a coral nerd. And honestly? I can't wait to go back.
The writer was a guest of The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort. Rooms start at $US1019 per night.
How to get to The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort
Emirates and Singapore Airlines fly to Male with a stopover, plus a speedboat or seaplane to the resort.
Originally published as I expected a cliche resort stay in the Maldives, then I saw the reef
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