Iconic Kissaten in Tokyo: A Local Expert's Picks
This fascination, of course, includes
kissaten
— atmospheric, cozy coffee shops that first emerged in the early 20th century. Kissaten, which started out as quiet places for writers and businesspeople to read and sip, tend to feature a simple but delicious menu, including drip coffee, fruit parfaits and
yoshoku
(western-style Japanese food) dishes like Napolitan pasta, pizza toast and the like.
While many modern cafes in and outside Japan have attempted to recreate the allure of these spaces to partake in the cultural moment, long-established kissaten haunts possess a tranquility and unpolished, timeworn charm that is difficult to manufacture.
Wanting to find out more about Tokyo's rich kissaten culture, we reached out to local retro expert Seungjun Yang for his selection of cafes. He is behind one of our all-time favorite Instagram accounts,
Retlog
: a thoughtfully curated portal sharing the distinct histories and menus of the myriad kissaten dotted across Japan.
List of Contents:
Tricolore Honten
Kissa Shinkai
Toronto
Coffee Tei Rouen
Ethel no Nakaniwa
More Information
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courtesy of Mitsugu Uehara / deeptokyo
Tricolore Honten
Situated in the heart of Ginza, Tokyo's historic shopping district,
Tricolore Honten
is a long-established gem known for its timeless excellence. It has been around since 1936, and is most famous for its amazing cafe au laits. 'The cafe au laits are poured one by one at your seat,' Yang tells us.
courtesy of Mitsugu Uehara / deeptokyo
He also recommends trying the éclairs here, which have long been the cafe's specialty. The pastries are filled with cream upon order, ensuring a delicious outer-layer crunch and fresh sweetness.
courtesy of kissa shinkai
courtesy of kissa shinkai
courtesy of kissa shinkai
Kissa Shinkai
For those looking for something quirkier, Yang recommends the coffee shop within a public bathhouse,
Kissa Shinkai
, in Kita city. The sento has been around for over 70 years.
Shinkai
, meaning 'deep sea,' comes from a mural in the women's bath, and is reflected in the cafe's cobalt walls and calm ambience.
courtesy of kissa shinkai
The kissaten was renovated through crowdfunding efforts in order to pass on the ambience of the bathhouse to younger generations. 'We recommend trying the iconic Shinkai Jelly, and the proprietress' secret recipe pudding,' Yang says.
courtesy of toronto
Toronto
Not too far from Ueno Park is Taito city's
Toronto
, a family-run Showa-era kissaten known for its classic yoshoku dishes. 'The kissaten sees a wide range of regulars across all ages at all hours of the day,' Yang notes, 'and many of them have been around since the cafe first opened in 1965.'
courtesy of toronto
courtesy of toronto
courtesy of toronto
Toronto's Napolitan pasta, with generous amounts of Tabasco and powdered cheese, is a must-try for yoshoku and
itameshi
(Japanese-Italian fusion) lovers. The shop's pudding, piled high with swirls of whipped cream, regularly goes viral for its incredible texture and rich flavor.
courtesy of santatsu
Coffee Tei Rouen
'You have to try the Showa-style morning set at
Coffee Tei Rouen
,' Yang gushes. Located in Ota city, near JR Omori Station, this cozy kissaten is one of Tokyo's best-preserved relics of Showa coffee culture.
courtesy of santatsu
courtesy of santatsu
courtesy of YamaNe79 / Tabelog
courtesy of santatsu
Like many kissaten, Rouen is a family-run establishment, currently led by second-generation owner Takamasa Miyazawa. The breakfast set Yang mentions has remained largely unchanged over the past few decades. It is composed of a drink of your choice, plus toast with butter and jam.
courtesy of mayuko kiyoshi / note
Ethel no Nakaniwa
If you find yourself in
Koenji
, the free-spirited Tokyo neighborhood known as 'the birthplace of the Japanese punk scene,' you must check out
Ethel no Nakaniwa
. Its name, meaning 'Ethel's courtyard,' goes perfectly with the magical interior and decor. With plants hanging from the ceiling, velveteen accents and stained-glass windows, the cozy space feels like it has come straight out of a whimsical fairytale.
courtesy of itoitolog / tabelog
'The dishware at Ethel is stunning,' Yang points out. 'You'll see antique teapots, ornate cups and vintage silverware.' While enjoying delicious scones, cakes and tea, you can soak in the enchanting ambience of your surroundings.
More Retro Recommendations
You can follow Retlog on Instagram
@retlog_official
for the latest information on retro establishments across Tokyo, Osaka and beyond.
If you love retro fashion and thrifting, make sure to also check out digdig (
@digdig.official
), an innovative online marketplace also created by Yang and his team. It is designed to encourage mindful shopping habits and sustainability.
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