Making the case: Rolex's Everose and Hublot's Magic Gold and King Gold show off the latest in watchmaking alloy excellence
At
Watches and Wonders 2025 , proprietary gold alloys stole the spotlight in some of the year's most significant launches. These aren't your traditional precious metals – they're patented blends developed by brands to enhance hardness, prevent fading, improve colour stability and create materials as distinctive as any dial or movement.
A. Lange & Söhne rendered its newest Odysseus in Honeygold. Photo: Handout
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A prime example is A. Lange & Söhne, the German watchmaker revered for its exceptional engineering and low-volume approach. Its newest Odysseus Chronograph is rendered in Honeygold – a proprietary 18k gold alloy developed in 2010 with a hue between yellow and rose, reminiscent of honey. Used in only 14 references to date and reserved for limited editions and commemorative pieces, Honeygold isn't just notable for its tone – it's also significantly harder than conventional 18k gold, thanks to a custom mineral blend and specialised heat treatment.
A. Lange & Söhne's Honeygold alloy has a hue somewhere between yellow and rose. Photo: Handout
This new Odysseus marks the first time Honeygold has been used in one of the brand's sportier models. Limited to 100 pieces, the 42.5mm watch features a newly developed integrated Honeygold bracelet and a brown, granular-textured dial. It's powered by the L156.1 Datomatic calibre, which delivers a 50-hour power reserve and 120 metres of water resistance – making it one of the most technically robust applications of Honeygold to date.
Pianist Yuja Wang wears a Rolex Land-Dweller 36 in Everose gold with a diamond-set bezel. Photo: Handout
Watchmaking goliath Rolex , meanwhile, puts its proprietary Everose gold centre stage in the new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 36. First introduced in 2005, Everose addresses one of pink gold's primary weaknesses – tone degradation – by including a trace amount of platinum to preserve its colour over time. In the new Land-Dweller 36, the alloy is used throughout the case and bracelet and a honeycomb-pattern, laser-etched dial.
One model adds a diamond-set bezel and baguette-cut diamonds as hour markers. Inside, the range uses the calibre 7135, which includes the brand's new Dynapulse escapement, a Syloxi silicon hairspring and a ceramic balance staff – delivering a 66-hour power reserve. A specially engineered Flat Jubilee bracelet in Everose gold, featuring ceramic inserts and a concealed clasp, ensures a seamless finish.
Montblanc 1858 Geo Annual Calendar in Lime Gold. Photo: Handout
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