Blue watches are back – in fresh shades, materials and textures: here's our rundown of the models that matter most from Rolex, Chanel, Vacheron Constantin, Parmigiani Fleurier, Hermès and Dior
Watches and Wonders 2025 , it was the return of blue. While the colour has long been a favourite in horology, this year's releases showed how brands are pushing the palette further, delivering unexpected textures, materials and finishes – from icy platinum to matte ceramic and pearly lacquer.
Rolex's most talked-about launch, the new Land-Dweller, may have made headlines for its technical leap – the brand-new calibre 7135 and patented Dynapulse escapement – but aesthetically, all eyes were on the ice blue dial of ref. 127336. Reserved for platinum models, this signature hue now appears with a honeycomb pattern and satin finish, giving the brand's first all-new line since the Sky-Dweller in 2012 a dressier edge. The watchmaker also unveiled a blue-dial version of the Oyster Perpetual, available in case sizes ranging from 28mm to 41mm.
Close-up of the ice blue dial of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40. Photo: Handout
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The Zenith G.F.J. was close behind as a collector's favourite. Released to celebrate the brand's 160th anniversary and to honour founder Georges Favre-Jacot, the 39mm limited edition features a lapis lazuli dial with a mother-of-pearl centre seconds sub-dial and a platinum case with a bracelet engraved in a brick motif. Its movement, the calibre 135, dominated observatory accuracy competitions in the 1950s and now returns with modern upgrades, including a 72-hour power reserve.
'Blue has always been a defining element of Zenith's identity, symbolising our connection to the sky and the pioneering spirit that has driven us for 160 years,' says CEO Benoit de Clerck. To celebrate that legacy, the brand also launched a trio of bright blue ceramic chronographs: the Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph and Pilot Big Date Flyback. 'More than a tribute to our heritage, these timepieces embody the spirit of innovation and craftsmanship that continue to shape the future of our maison. We are proud to celebrate this anniversary with such a bold and meaningful creation,' he adds.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième Perpétuel in platinum. Photo: Handout
From deep blue lapis to sky tones, Parmigiani Fleurier's latest release explored the palette's softer side. The Toric Quantième Perpétuel in Morning Blue leans into understatement with a beautifully hand-grained dial in a pale, powdery blue. The 40.6mm case is framed by the Toric's signature knurled bezel, sculpted in platinum, with a clean coaxial calendar layout.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS in platinum. Photo: Handout
Chopard also refined its approach to blue. The new Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS, housed in platinum with an ultra-slim 8mm profile, features what the brand calls its Shades of Ice dial – a textured radial pattern inspired by an eagle's iris, rendered in glacial blue. The CS (Central Seconds) model features a bold arrow-tipped central seconds hand and baton indices. The movement – a COSC-certified, Poinçon de Genève-stamped calibre 96.42-L – is powered by a platinum micro-rotor and is visible through the sapphire caseback.
Chanel J12 Bleu X-Ray. Photo: Handout
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If one thing stood out at Watches and Wonders 2025 , it was the return of blue. While the colour has long been a favourite in horology, this year's releases showed how brands are pushing the palette further, delivering unexpected textures, materials and finishes – from icy platinum to matte ceramic and pearly lacquer. Rolex's most talked-about launch, the new Land-Dweller, may have made headlines for its technical leap – the brand-new calibre 7135 and patented Dynapulse escapement – but aesthetically, all eyes were on the ice blue dial of ref. 127336. Reserved for platinum models, this signature hue now appears with a honeycomb pattern and satin finish, giving the brand's first all-new line since the Sky-Dweller in 2012 a dressier edge. The watchmaker also unveiled a blue-dial version of the Oyster Perpetual, available in case sizes ranging from 28mm to 41mm. Close-up of the ice blue dial of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40. Photo: Handout Advertisement The Zenith G.F.J. was close behind as a collector's favourite. Released to celebrate the brand's 160th anniversary and to honour founder Georges Favre-Jacot, the 39mm limited edition features a lapis lazuli dial with a mother-of-pearl centre seconds sub-dial and a platinum case with a bracelet engraved in a brick motif. Its movement, the calibre 135, dominated observatory accuracy competitions in the 1950s and now returns with modern upgrades, including a 72-hour power reserve. 'Blue has always been a defining element of Zenith's identity, symbolising our connection to the sky and the pioneering spirit that has driven us for 160 years,' says CEO Benoit de Clerck. To celebrate that legacy, the brand also launched a trio of bright blue ceramic chronographs: the Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph and Pilot Big Date Flyback. 'More than a tribute to our heritage, these timepieces embody the spirit of innovation and craftsmanship that continue to shape the future of our maison. We are proud to celebrate this anniversary with such a bold and meaningful creation,' he adds. Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième Perpétuel in platinum. Photo: Handout From deep blue lapis to sky tones, Parmigiani Fleurier's latest release explored the palette's softer side. The Toric Quantième Perpétuel in Morning Blue leans into understatement with a beautifully hand-grained dial in a pale, powdery blue. The 40.6mm case is framed by the Toric's signature knurled bezel, sculpted in platinum, with a clean coaxial calendar layout. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS in platinum. Photo: Handout Chopard also refined its approach to blue. The new Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS, housed in platinum with an ultra-slim 8mm profile, features what the brand calls its Shades of Ice dial – a textured radial pattern inspired by an eagle's iris, rendered in glacial blue. The CS (Central Seconds) model features a bold arrow-tipped central seconds hand and baton indices. The movement – a COSC-certified, Poinçon de Genève-stamped calibre 96.42-L – is powered by a platinum micro-rotor and is visible through the sapphire caseback. Chanel J12 Bleu X-Ray. Photo: Handout
