Dressing the belles of Icon Ball: Frederick Lee lets his gowns shine while he stays backstage
SINGAPORE – Each year, at the Icon Ball – one of the most anticipated events on Singapore's high-society calendar organised by local Chinese-language luxury lifestyle magazine Icon – the ballroom sparkles with a sea of Dior, Chanel, Valentino and Saint Laurent.
But amid the international fashion powerhouses, one name rings loud and clear, especially among those in the know: Frederick Lee.
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Sign up now: Get ST's newsletters delivered to your inbox French student Sen (left) applies rope on a model during a certification test to become a 'shibari' instructor, at Mr Hajime Kinoko's studio in May. TOKYO – In Tokyo, a man watches a woman slowly bind another with ropes attached to chains hanging from the ceiling. But this is no sadomasochism (S&M) bar. It is a workshop led by 'shibari' master Hajime Kinoko. He teaches the knot-tying techniques of Japanese bondage, untangling the practice from its associations with kink and emphasising instead art and aesthetics. 'I see attaching not only people, but also objects or spaces as a form of painting on canvas,' the 48-year-old said at his studio in central Tokyo. 'It's simply another type of expression.' Mr Kinoko discovered 'shibari' – the art of ropes – in the 2000s while managing an S&M joint in Roppongi, an area of Tokyo known for its nightclubs and bars. 'I wasn't particularly drawn to fetishism at first,' he said. 'At the time, the focus of BDSM (bondage, discipline, sadism and masochism) was often on the dirty or degrading side, but I didn't see that part of it as necessary.' Mr Kinoko learnt how to tie a woman's body by watching others before establishing his own style 'based on beauty'. He started staging performances with a more artistic perspective, and attracted a growing audience. Top stories Swipe. Select. Stay informed. Business Keppel to sell M1's telco business to Simba for $1.43 billion Business Nvidia, AMD to pay 15% of China chip sale revenues to US, official says Singapore Healthy lifestyle changes could save Singapore $650 million in healthcare costs by 2050: Study Opinion Anwar's government: Full house but plenty of empty offices Singapore 79 arrested, over 3kg of heroin seized in 5-day drug blitz Singapore Man's claim amid divorce that his mother is true owner of 3 properties cuts no ice with judge Asia Tourist spots in South Korea face complaints over rude service, price gouging during peak season Singapore BTO income ceiling, age floor for singles being reviewed: Chee Hong Tat 'My goal is not to hurt. I don't place myself in a hierarchical relationship,' he said. Mr Hajime Kinoko, one of Japan's best-known artists of 'shibari' or rope art, next to a human-shaped project made from rope, at his studio in Tokyo in May. PHOTO: AFP The roots of 'shibari' date back to the Edo period (1603 to 1868), when feudal lords used 'hojojutsu' to tie up criminals. The practice took an erotic turn in the 20th century through Japanese painter Ito Seiu's illustrations and books by Japanese author Dan Oniroku, many of which became – like Double Rope Torture (1985) – pornographic movies. Another word for this in Japanese is 'kinbaku', but this refers to 'precise and restrictive techniques, such as wrists tied behind the back', Mr Kinoko said. ''Shibari' is a broader, freer term. There is no single definition.' The artist enjoys marrying the traditional heritage with an avant-garde approach and employing it in novel settings. In Tokyo's Shibuya district, he enveloped an egg-shaped house called the Natural Eclipse in blue rope like a spider's web, transforming it into a living sculpture. A pedestrian walks past an egg-shaped home in central Tokyo called Natural Eclipse decorated with blue rope by Mr Hajime Kinoko in July. PHOTO: AFP 'It was the missing piece,' said the owner of the building, who agreed to the project after seeing another of Mr Kinoko's works. 'Today, passers-by stop to photograph it. It has become a place of interaction.' Mr Kinoko installed large cubes of red rope on top of a Tokyo shopping centre and erected a 'shibari' sanctuary at the Burning Man festival in the United States in 2017. 'Why not stretch networks of ropes around the Eiffel Tower?' he said with a smile. Mr Kinoko began offering workshops in London 20 years ago, before inviting fellow Japanese 'shibari' masters to introduce their art to the European public. ''Shibari' then spread very quickly,' he says. But international success has not been without risk. 'When I saw people tying without knowing what they were doing, I realised it was necessary to teach. 'Shibari' can be dangerous,' he said. Reputed to be a hard taskmaster, he founded his own 'shibari' school, Ichinawakai, where he trains a new generation of students, around 40 per cent of them women. One of them, French student Sen, travelled from France to learn the techniques. 'I discovered him in Paris during a performance. He has freed himself from the original dynamics,' said the 25-year-old. French student Sen (left) speaking with Hajime Kinoko (right), one of Japan's best-known artists of 'shibari' or rope art, after she applied rope onto a model during a certification test to become a 'shibari' instructor. PHOTO: AFP Mr Kinoko offers certification, although this is not an official licence. Students must pass a 10-stage course, master a variety of knots and guarantee the safety of those they are tying up. 'You have to know how to communicate, make things beautiful and not hurt. That's what I try to convey. I feel responsible,' Mr Kinoko said. 'I want 'shibari' to transform society. Because, deep down, 'shibari' is a way to create connections.' AFP
