A Lunch to Remember: Honouring Legacy With Chef Vineet Bhatia's ‘Ode to the Icon' At Dhilli, The Oberoi
In an unforgettable afternoon at Dhilli, I experienced Michelin-starred Chef Vineet Bhatia's 'Ode to the Icon', a soulful culinary tribute to The Oberoi, New Delhi's 60-year legacy
There are some lunches that fill your belly. And then, there are some that fill your soul. My afternoon at Dhilli, inside the quietly majestic The Oberoi, New Delhi, was one of the latter.
It wasn't just a meal. It was a deeply layered sensory journey through time, place, and memory crafted by none other than Chef Vineet Bhatia MBE, in celebration of The Oberoi's remarkable 60-year legacy. The moment I entered Dhilli, there was a hum of anticipation in the air. And not just because of the impeccable service or the gleaming cutlery on the tables but because every seat in that room understood the significance of what was being plated: an edible tribute to an icon.
Dhilli, for those unfamiliar, is not your average hotel restaurant. It's a love letter to Delhi's soul mentored by Chef Bhatia himself and led by the talented Sous Chef Dibyendu Roy. The menu doesn't adhere to the stiffness of courses. Instead, it invites you to taste the city, its street corners, its history, its communities through reimagined classics drawn from Chandni Chowk to CR Park.
But for this one week in July, Dhilli transformed into something even more intimate. Chef Bhatia's 'Ode to the Icon – A Tribute Menu" was not just a nod to his roots with The Oberoi (where he began his culinary journey in the late 1980s), but also a heartfelt homage to the culinary landmarks that once defined the space we were sitting in.
I learnt that where Dhilli stands today, once stood Café Espresso, the city's first 24-hour coffee shop in the '60s, an eclectic haven for late-night partygoers, celebrities, and airline crew alike. In the late '80s, the space evolved into Palms, a stylish café known for its soulful, uncomplicated food. The tribute menu took these stories and turned them into flavour.
We began with Palm's Crisp Chicken, golden and crunchy, paired with a velvety daal makhni that immediately transported me to a family-style North Indian dinner, no fuss, just warmth. The 'La Rochelle' Seabass, seared to perfection and perched delicately over a mango and coconut curry, was a graceful nod to the now-vanished French restaurant once located where 360° now stands. The flavours were gentle, yet persistent like the memory of a good conversation.
The Shahi Seekh Kabab, served in a minty foxnut gravy, reimagined Kandahar's original dish with the opulence of a royal kitchen. And Taipan Twist oh, what a surprise! It was an Indo-Chinese fusion that avoided all clichés. Instead of confusion, it offered clarity perfectly balanced, nuanced, and punchy. Just like Delhi itself.
Perhaps my favourite dish, though, was the Gulab Jamun-Misu, a mash-up of Italian indulgence and desi nostalgia, crowned with a cappuccino foam. It was a tribute to coffee dates at Palms, and as someone who treasures both tiramisu and gulab jamun, this was dessert diplomacy at its finest.
As we sipped on our spiced kokum coolers and chamomile-infused iced teas, Chef Bhatia made his rounds, warmly greeting guests and sharing anecdotes from his early days. 'This menu is my way of honouring 60 years of The Oberoi, New Delhi," he told us. 'It's where it all started for me. I feel just as privileged today as I did when I joined in the 1980s." There was a quiet humility in his voice, despite his global acclaim.
The Oberoi, New Delhi has always been more than just a luxury hotel. Since opening its doors in 1965, it has consistently set the gold standard for hospitality in India blending heritage with modern elegance. From its breathtaking views of Humayun's Tomb to its air-purified rooms and world-class service, it continues to evolve while staying rooted in timeless grace.
And this 60th anniversary? It's not just a milestone, it's a moment. A chance to honour the layers of legacy, people, and passion that built this institution. Through experiences like 'Ode to the Icon," The Oberoi isn't just commemorating the past, it's lovingly curating it for the future.
As I stepped out of Dhilli that afternoon, full in every way possible, I couldn't help but feel like I had just dined with history. And more than that, I had tasted it.
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New Delhi, India, India
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August 05, 2025, 13:07 IST
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