I got hooked on exploring Arles, France's most charming historic city

Daily Telegraph

19 hours ago

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Jasmine drapes from the ancient walls, vine leaves trail across narrow alleys and wisteria leaves unfurl, dangling across shuttered façades. On the warm, sunny afternoon we arrive in the French city of Arles, the fragrance is heady.
Our Airbnb is hidden down a quiet alley, tucked behind a high wall, but its two-storey façade is gloriously yellow – sunflower yellow – which seems just right in the city made famous by Dutch artist Vincent van Gogh.
Art is important here, but Arles has many other strings to its bow, from its Unesco World Heritage-listed Roman and medieval architecture, tree-shaded squares, terrace cafés and lively food scene to its ceramics, design and retro boutiques and bountiful street market.
The city sits in the Provence region, on a sweep of the Rhône River and on the edge of the Camargue, a fragile wetland area known for its wild white horses, black bulls and pink flamingos.
The old town's random network of pedestrian streets and squares is enticing, if sometimes confusing. We quickly fall into a rhythm of sorts – coffee earlyish in the morning at Place Voltaire as cafés set up and delivery vans inch perilously past their tables. Later in the day we have an apéritif, sometimes at the petite wine bar L'Épicerie du Cloître, hidden behind the Place de la République, and some days at the rustic Place Paul Doumer under a huge flowering tree on wonky, brightly coloured chairs, where locals meet for a drink while their kids play in the square. And sometimes in the courtyard of the wonderfully quirky L'Arlatan hotel. Housed in a former grand townhouse it's discreet outside, but inside it's a riot of colour, pattern and inventive design.
Between coffee and wine, we explore.
Rose and provencal tarts in Arles. Picture: Margaret Barca
Roaming around
Arles' Les Arènes, a two-tiered amphitheatre built in AD90, is epic – it hosted 20,000 spectators in its day. Now cultural events and bullfighting festivals draw crowds, with the Feria de Pâques (Easter Fair) a high point. The Roman Theatre, from 12BC, is also still in use. In Place de la République, Arles' main square, you can descend beneath the 17th-century town hall into stone chambers built by the Romans. Also on the square is the beautiful Unesco World Heritage-listed Church of St Trophime and its cloisters, rich with Romanesque carvings.
At the Musée Départmental Arles Antique massive marble sculptures, mosaics, amphorae, a 2000-year-old timber barge dredged up from the river and fascinating scale models reveal the genius and imagination of the Romans.
The Roman Amphitheater of Arles.
In the footsteps of van Gogh
Van Gogh only spent a year or so here, but his unique vision captured forever this part of the world, in particular its luminous, often honey-coloured light, starry nights and, of course, its golden sunflowers. We follow a walking tour discovering places such as the leafy and evocative Place du Forum, where the yellow café depicted in his Café Terrace at Night in 1888 still stands, though it's currently closed. At the van Gogh Foundation in Rue du Dr Fanton we learn about the remarkable influence he has had on so many other artists.
Also in Rue du Dr Fanton is bistro Le Galoubet. Sitting under the arbour sipping a rosé on a sunny day is bliss. There's a set-price menu (very fresh, very French). If the Paris-Brest, with its heavenly hazelnut crème, is on the dessert menu, order it.
The striking Luma Arles museum, designed by Frank Gehry.
Museums old and new
Our next stop is Museon Arlaten, the Museum of Provence, founded in 1906 by Frédéric Mistral, Arles' Nobel prize-winning poet. Restored and recently reopened, it offers a fascinating exploration of traditional and modern Provence, embracing Roman ruins, a 16th-century Gothic-style mansion, a Jesuit chapel and more, with spectacular contemporary design, glass floors and stunning tapestry-like collages by Arles-born luxury-fashion designer Christian Lacroix.
Further on the art trail, Musée Réattu was the house and studio of Arlesian artist Jacques Réattu in the 1800s. Réattu's paintings, his art collection, works donated by Picasso, views of the Rhône, and an interesting gift shop are some of the museum's charms.
Luma Arles, the 10-storey gallery and art centre designed by American starchitect Frank Gehry, focuses on contemporary art and events. The tower's 11,000 stainless-steel bricks gleam in the Provençal light, though not everyone loves the building – it's been compared to a crushed soft drink can.
Les Rencontres d'Arles, Europe's largest photography festival, held here each year, brings an international crowd, with exceptional exhibitions and events spilling into gallery spaces, shops and parks over the summer months.
Wandering the historic laneways is one of the joys of a visit to Arles.
Top shops
Arles is dotted with small boutiques and artisan craft shops, and retro and recycled shops are a thing here. We love Moustique with its woven baskets, hats, T-shirts and leather goods, and Studio Sophie Lassagne has gorgeous, vibrantly glazed small pots perfect for gifts, but you are spoiled for choice.
Arles Market, sprawling along Boulevard des Lices on Saturdays, is one of the biggest and best in Provence.
And then it's time for coffee again.
Outdoor dining near the Arles Roman Amphitheatre.
How to get to Arles, France
The TGV train from Paris (change at Nîmes) takes about four hours.
Where to stay in Arles, France
Boutique L'Arlatan hotel has double rooms from $250. If you're not staying, call in for cocktails – it's magic.
Top tip for visiting Arles, France
Buy discount entry tickets online or in person from the Arles visitor information office.
Originally published as I got hooked on exploring Arles, France's most charming historic city