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Dermatologists' Number-1 Tip for Longer, Stronger Nails

Dermatologists' Number-1 Tip for Longer, Stronger Nails

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While it's always nice to have a stunning manicure that has your friends swooning, at Prevention we know that there are far more reasons to maintain strong and healthy nails. 'If the appearance of the skin is a window into a person's internal health, the nails are at least a porthole,' says Tyler Hollmig, M.D., director of dermatologic surgery and laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of Texas Dell Medical Center.
Indeed, strong and healthy nails not only make you feel confident and put together, but they also signal that you're supporting your body's overall health and protecting yourself from things like infections and skin concerns. Here are some common causes of weak, brittle nails, plus the doctor-approved tips that will help them grow faster and stronger than ever.
What causes brittle, breakable nails?
Dry, brittle nails have a list of potential causes that is long and complex—ranging from fungal infections to skin disorders like eczema to internal conditions like heart, lung, liver, or kidney problems, Dr. Hollmig says. Nutritional deficiencies, celiac disease, or major health stressors like fevers or chemotherapy medications can also damage your nails.
If you consider yourself generally healthy, know that dry air can dehydrate your nails just as much as your skin. 'The exact same cells that form the outer layer of your skin also form your nails,' explains dermatologist Cynthia Bailey, M.D., F.A.A.D., founder and CEO of Dr. Bailey Skin Care. 'These cells harden more in your nails, but structurally, they share many common features and needs.'
Natural oils hold together layers within the nail, acting as a 'glue,' as Dr. Bailey calls it, and when temperatures and humidity drop, that glue is much more susceptible to breaking down.
Genes and aging can also play a role. Nail growth is like hair growth, in that it's different for everyone. 'Not everyone makes nails that are durable at longer lengths,' says Chris G. Adigun, M.D., F.A.A.D., a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in nail disorders. She also emphasizes that stunted nail growth isn't the same as nail brittleness. Brittle nails grow at the expected rate, they just break easily.
How to make your nails grow longer and stronger
Growing your nails can be a trying process, and it definitely tests your patience. 'Nails grow slowly,' says Dr. Hollmig. 'It typically takes about six months to regrow a fingernail and an entire year to regrow a big toenail.'
Thankfully, the following expert-backed tips will help speed up the process.
1. Favor foods that support nail growth.
'As long as a person is healthy and eating a well-balanced diet, it is difficult to accelerate nail growth beyond the normal rate of about 3 millimeters per month,' Dr. Hollmig says. But diet is the most crucial thing you can do to promote steady progress, so load up on foods rich in the following nutrients, all of which support healthy nail growth:
Cysteine: chicken, turkey, yogurt, legumes
Folate: spinach, asparagus, romaine lettuce, avocado, green peas
Biotin: egg yolks, salmon, nuts, seeds, spinach, broccoli
Zinc: oysters, beef, crab, beans, nuts, seeds, fortified cereal
Vitamin A: sweet potatoes, carrots, pumpkin, mangoes
Vitamin C: bell peppers, citrus fruits, strawberries, Brussels sprouts, kiwifruit
2. Leave your nails alone.
Dr. Adigun often sees patients who have undergone 'chronic cuticle manipulation, such as pushing or trimming,' she says, which stunts nail growth. That manipulation could also include stress-induced biting and picking.
Your best bet is to simply leave your nails alone in the first place, but that can be easier said than done. If you find that you're mindlessly biting, it helps to first identify your triggers—say, when you're running late to work—and do your best to avoid them. Frequently applying a hand cream or cuticle balm to your nails and surrounding skin can also help, as you'll have fewer dry areas to pick at.
If all else fails, you can treat your nails with a bitter nail polish (which really will taste awful) or secure a bandage around a particular nail you can't leave alone.
3. Wet your nails before you file.
Although you want your nails to grow long, you should still file them to keep them free of snags that may catch and cause splitting—think of it the same way as needing to get your ends trimmed even when you're growing your hair out. To ensure your filing isn't too harsh, Dr. Bailey recommends wetting your nails first 'to soften the structure and make it pliable.'
Always file in one direction with swift, smooth strokes (going back and forth can cause splintering) with a softer file, like the Deborah Lippmann Smooth Operator 4-Way Nail Buffer.
4. Protect them from harsh soaps and cleaners.
Or at least wear gloves while you use them. 'Exposing your hands to harsh soaps, cleaning products, solvents, and rough work makes the problem worse because it pulls natural oil from your nails and damages the nail keratin protein,' says Dr. Bailey. 'At first, your nails begin to 'fray' on the edges, becoming brittle. Eventually, the layers split.'
5. Don't skimp on the moisturizer.
Dr. Bailey says you should consistently treat your hands and nails with oils that will lock in moisture, preserve the cuticle seal, and strengthen the nail itself in order to promote growth. Her favorites are natural oils like jojoba oil, avocado oil, and shea butter.
Dr. Adigun's go-to hydrating product is RESTORE by Dr. Rogers, which is a healing balm for damaged, fragile skin that contains glycerin (an ingredient that draws moisture to the area) and castor oil.
6. Change up your regular manicure.
They might look beautiful, but there could be a lot of damage happening underneath your manicures, especially if you have an unknown allergy. 'Allergy to a nail product will present with peeling, cracking nails,' says Dr. Adigun. She says it's most often due to the presence of tosylamide or formaldehyde resin, chemicals found in many nail polishes and hardeners.
Unfortunately, gel manicures may not be any better. 'Gel manicures may be tough on nails, causing brittleness, peeling, and cracking," Dr. Adigun says. "And repeated use of UV radiation in these settings may increase the risk of skin cancer and premature aging on the hands.'
She recommends using 5-free nail polishes instead, which are lacquers made without the five chemicals and allergens that most often interfere with nail growth and strength: formaldehyde, dibutyl phthalate, toluene, and the allergens camphor and formaldehyde resin. Butter London and Deborah Lippman are approved polish brands by Dr. Adigun's standards.
7. Try some vitamins.
While certain vitamins and supplements can help support healthy nail growth, they 'should be used in addition to, not in place of, a healthy diet,' says Dr. Bailey.
One to look into? Biotin, a type of B vitamin, has been shown to increase nail thickness by about 25% in patients with brittle nails and "can improve nail smoothness and reduce nail splitting,' she says, ultimately supporting faster growth.
You could also consider popping a multivitamin that contains a mix of the nutrients mentioned above, just in case you aren't getting all of them every day from the foods you eat. 'I tell patients to go to their favorite, high-quality natural food store and ask the vitamin specialist for their best nail formula,' suggests Dr. Bailey.
If you believe you may be deficient in a certain vitamin or mineral, talk to your doctor about getting your levels tested. Taking an iron supplement, for example, may help strengthen your nails—but that's only the case if your doc confirms you have an iron deficiency, says Dr. Adigun.
⚠️ Always talk to your doctor about proper dosage before taking any new supplement, especially if you're already taking other medications or get regular lab tests.
8. Talk to a dermatologist.
If you feel like you've tried everything and you're still dealing with brittle nails and breakage, consulting a professional may be necessary. In those cases, Dr. Adigun recommends seeing a dermatologist who specializes in nail health. 'We sometimes prescribe an oral antifungal medication to accelerate growth,' she says, but that's only if symptoms are severe.
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