How to plan a multi-generational vacation to Maremma in Tuscany
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Southern Tuscany offers a quieter, more authentic escape to big-hitters such as Lucca and Siena, with a landscape defined by rolling vineyards, medieval hilltop towns and an unspoilt coastline. The Maremma region is an ideal base for multi-generational stays, and yet it's still easily accessible from Florence to the north and Rome to the south in about two hours by car. Whether you seek luxury, adventure or relaxation, this pocket of Southern Tuscany delivers an unforgettable experience for all generations.
The highlight of any trip, these naturally occurring hot springs were regarded as a gift from the gods by the Romans and Etruscans. They can be enjoyed for free at the Cascate del Mulino. Arrive at dawn to see the sun rise while bathing in the mineral-rich, 37.5C sulphurous springs; bring shoes as the pools' mineral deposits can be sharp on the feet. Families with teens might want to trade up for the luxury experience at the Terme di Saturnia Resort, which has sunloungers by the water and spa treatments.
Plan for a day at this free beach, one of two strips of sand connecting the Argentario peninsula to the mainland. It's part of the eastern lagoon within the protected area that bears the same name: the Duna Feniglia Nature Reserve. A forest of centuries-old maritime pines runs along the beach for four miles, with restaurants and beach bars dotted along the coastline. Head to the centre of the beach for the softest sand and clearest water.
Step into a real-life Indiana Jones adventure at the Etruscan tombs in the city of Tarquinia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, in the Necropoli dei Monterozzi, history unfolds in a series of underground chambers with well-preserved 2,500-year-old frescoes. Vivid paintings of banquets, musicians, dancers and mythical creatures offer a rare glimpse into the ancient world. A compact site, it's easy to navigate and an immersive experience for families.
Southern Tuscany's prestigious hilltop winemaking towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano are just inland from Maremma. While vineyard tours might not work for families, some villa agencies can organise private, in-villa group tasting sessions with Tuscan winemakers. The adults get to learn about the viticulture traditions of local family-run and organic farms, while kids can come and go as they please, dipping into wine-pairing snacks.
Published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK)To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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National Geographic
6 hours ago
- National Geographic
In the Sichuan capital, renewed heritage appreciation is helping ancient teahouses go viral
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). It's barely 9am when I slide into a bamboo armchair at Heming Tea House in Chengdu's sprawling People's Park. This century-old stalwart is one of the oldest teahouses in the megacity that I called home until I was nine. While I was growing up here, in one of China's oldest tea-growing areas, many weekends were spent in an open-air teahouse like this one. While adults played games of mahjong and the kids ran riot, roving hawkers carrying heavy baskets balanced on bamboo shoulder poles would come round selling snacks. The most famous of these is dan dan mian (shoulder pole noodles), where a nest of cold noodles is placed on a hot and tongue-numbing mala chilli oil base, topped with spring onion and minced meat, then mixed and greedily devoured. But as I sip my grassy mao feng green tea, I'm struck by how unusually busy it is. Hordes of tourists with phones in video mode stream past the chairs crammed under teak pavilions and beige parasols. Most seats already filled by pensioners putting the world to rights or families cracking into toasted sunflower seeds. Heming Tea House has lately gained wang hong ('internet fame') with Chinese travellers — the local expression for going viral. Photograph by Getty Images, Plej92 A group of photography students is playing cards next to me, their backs turned on a pile of cameras carelessly stacked on a spare chair. I lean over and ask why there are so many people here on a weekday. One of the students looks up and tells me Heming has lately gained wang hong ('internet fame') with Chinese travellers — the local expression for going viral. Later, I head to Lao Chuzi Sichuan Restaurant for a family gathering. The low-key restaurant and teahouse on the top floor of a four-storey office block isn't particularly well known, but my uncle picked it because it's a favourite in his neighbourhood, and it serves a stellar line-up of Sichuan dishes, including garlic-infused fish, fragrant aubergine and thin slices of poached pork served with a drizzle of sesame-laced chilli sauce. I bring up the wang hong phenomenon. 'There are wang hong places everywhere now and business is booming,' my uncle tells me, noting a similarly popular place down the road: 11th Street. Later, we stroll over to take a look. Amid the low-rise residential blocks is a row of a dozen or so two-storey buildings, their exposed wooden beams and pitched roofs incongruous with the more modern surroundings. Each houses a hole-in-the-wall joint; their names — like Xiangxiang Mian ('alley noodles') or Du Youyou Boboji ('Du Youyou's spicy skewers') — advertise their specialities. Wooden tables and bamboo chairs spill onto the street in front, where there are as many people taking photos as there are noisily eating. 'These all used to be teahouses,' says my uncle, who's lived in the neighbourhood for over 30 years and watched the buildings' metamorphosis into buzzy restaurants. Before that, this ramshackle collective was made up of homes built during the tumultuous period after the Qing dynasty ended in 1912 and before the People's Republic of China was established in 1949. Since the 1990s, billions of pounds of investment have poured into Chengdu from the central government and private developers, triggering a building boom that's given large swathes of the city a complete facelift. These buildings have somehow escaped the demolitions that razed their neighbours, and ironically their rundown appearance may now become their saving grace as people seek to hold on to the last vestiges of an old Chengdu. Head chef, Steven Tan, stands proudly at Mi Xun Teahouse at The Temple House hotel. Before it was a Michelin-starred vegetarian restaurant, Mi Xun started with tea and snacks until more and more people requested the food. Heming Tea House is a century-old stalwart, and one of the oldest teahouses in the megacity of Chengdu. Photograph by Alamy, Lejeanvre Philippe In recent years, there's been a concerted effort to protect and redevelop old buildings with heritage value — the type that don't hold historical significance, like temples and monuments, but still have a place in the city's history. One of the more sensitively done projects is the downtown Taikoo Li shopping and entertainment complex, where a handful of 19th-century homes surrounding Daci Temple were restored and given a new lease of life a decade ago. Mi Xun Teahouse, the Michelin-starred vegetarian restaurant at The Temple House hotel, occupies one of these. The grey brick walls of this single-storey building — set aside from the modern tower that makes up the main hotel — hide a tranquil courtyard that transforms into a wood-panelled al fresco dining spot in fine weather, a single tree providing dappled shade. It's here that I meet executive chef Tony Xu, who tells me that in the beginning Mi Xun was just supposed to be a teahouse. 'Because Chengdu is very big on tea, we started with tea and some snacks,' he says, explaining that teahouses almost always serve some kind of food. 'But more and more people were requesting our food, so we added more dishes to the menu. And now people mainly come for the food.' Tony takes inspiration from Buddhist culinary traditions in a nod to the temple next door, and so the menu is vegetarian with a very subtle use of spices and no garlic or onion. He is also an innovator, preparing dishes such as a vegan dan dan mian, made with an egg-free noodle of his own creation, containing wheat and cake flour for extra bite and spinach juice for colour; and mapo tofu, which is flavoured with mushrooms instead of the traditional pork mince. The result is a modern take on classic Sichuan flavours, with striking visual appeal. Executive chef at Mi Xun Teahouse, Tony Xu takes inspiration from Buddhist culinary traditions in a nod to the temple next door, so the menu is vegetarian with a very subtle use of spices. He is also an innovator, preparing dishes such as mapo tofu, which is flavoured with mushrooms instead of the traditional pork mince. The result is a modern take on classic Sichuan flavours, with striking visual appeal. Photograph by Jiang Xiaodan For the tea connoisseur, Mi Xun also offers a selection of premium brews such as da hong pao from Fujian province, and Pu'er from Yunnan, served in a pared-down version of the traditional gongfu tea-preparation ritual. Instead of an elaborate ceremony where a tea master washes the leaves, warms the tiny cups and prepares the tea, some of these stages are done behind the scenes. All the guests need do is steep the tea according to their preference. Attention is still paid to the drinkware — green tea always served in a glass pot, for example, while red tea comes in white ceramic. 'We've simplified things so everyone can enjoy the experience and take joy from tasting tea,' says teahouse manager Yvonne Du. Tea is cheap and widely available in Chengdu — meaning it's enjoyed by a wide cross-section of society. 'You'll find teahouses all over China,' explains Susan Yin, a guide at food tour company Lost Plate. 'In Chengdu, tea is for everyone. It doesn't matter what your background is, or whether you're rich or poor.' Yin is my guide for a food tour just east of the downtown area. The company's co-founder, Ruixi Hu, lives in Chengdu and designed the itinerary around some of her favourite haunts. As part of the tour, we hop into a cramped tuk-tuk that whizzes us around the neighbourhood. At one stop, we try dan hong gao, fluffy pancakes stuffed with a mix of sesame, crushed peanuts and sugar. At another, we tuck into enormous bowls of freshly made pork wontons, some in plain broth and some swimming in fragrant chilli oil. We also stop at casual noodle shop Tang Dan Dan Tian Shui Mian, visited by the late US chef Anthony Bourdain for his CNN show Parts Unknown, and slurp through bowls of tian shui mian ('sweet water noodles') — a thick, springy, hand-cut variety that comes slicked in a sweet, peanut and sesame paste sauce. Each houses a hole-in-the-wall joint; their names — like Xiangxiang Mian ('alley noodles') or Du Youyou Boboji ('Du Youyou's spicy skewers') — advertise their specialities. Wooden tables and bamboo chairs spill onto 11th Street in front, where there are as many people taking photos as there are noisily eating. It's only when we sit down at a restaurant serving jiang hu cuisine — a rough-and-ready style of cooking that has its origins in the street markets of Sichuan, a province that's big on flavour intensity — that Yin and I finally get some time to chat. As we liberate chunks of dry-fried chicken from underneath piles of chillies, and fish out tender slivers of beef from a spicy broth, Yin tells me she settled in Chengdu over a decade ago for two very simple reasons: the food and the lifestyle. Taking a sip of buckwheat tea, she adds: 'Chengdu is a laid-back city, and the best way to experience this is in a teahouse.' Audley has a 15-day tour of China, which includes two nights in Chengdu, as well as time in Beijing, Xi'an, Guilin, Yangshuo and Shanghai. From £5,495 per person, including flights, transfers, B&B accommodation and excursions, such as the Lost Plate food tour. This story was created with the support of Audley. Published in the July/August 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
Yahoo
a day ago
- Yahoo
9 Rome restaurants locals swear by
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). In Rome, where every other restaurant promises a 'true' carbonara or 'classic' pizza, the pursuit of authenticity can feel elusive. Travellers often stay within the confines of the historical centre and rely on the greatest hits served in well-worn trattorias offering English-language menus. But do as the locals do and seek out culinary quality in Rome's quieter corners and you'll really get a flavour of the city. From contemporary trattorias to wine kiosks, here are nine of the best places to eat in Rome — trusted spots that locals return to time after time. Best for: classic dishes with modern flairSince opening in 2017, Santo Palato has carved out a reputation as one of the capital's most exciting trattorias — a place where Roman classics are revered alongside inventive dishes. In March, it changed location from a small venue in San Giovanni to a larger space in Porta Metronia, unveiling a sharper, more design-forward look with bright orange surfaces, sleek pendant lighting and a glass-walled kitchen. But despite the contemporary look, the spirit of the place remains the same. Wood chairs and comfy tables lend it a cosy, old-school feel, while the menu leans heavily on the Roman canon. Start with one of the best iterations of trippa alla romana in town — Rome-style tripe braised in a rich tomato sauce with pecorino — and don't miss the decadent house carbonara. The daily specials are always worth a glance, too, with dishes such as chitarra pasta with a duck ragu and fried veal brain with a punchy mullet-liver mayo. Best for: small platesTucked down a quiet backstreet in Trastevere, this small enoteca (wine bar) offers a low-lit, intimate setting behind hefty double doors marked with large letters 'VI' and 'NO'— 'vino'. Inside, just 16 guests get to try plenty of it, sitting at bar-height tables or at the counter, while a carefully curated collection of vinyl plays out softly. The restaurant's loyal regulars pop in to greet the young chef Mirko Pelosi at the bar before settling in for dinner. Pelosi's experiences in Europe's top Michelin-starred and avant-garde restaurants have been translated into a menu of inventive small plates and a natural-leaning wine list. While the dishes have a clear grounding in Italian cuisine, they do stray beyond its confines. A Japanese-inspired raw tuna dish, for example, sees sashimi slices draped over a vignerola — a Roman spring veggie stew — while a lamb ragu is accompanied by thick Middle Eastern grilled pitas. And don't miss the smoked bottarga (cured fish roe), which is sliced and topped with pickled raw almonds. Best for: cool ambianceFor many, Rome conjures images of rustic trattorias rather than the minimalist venues tipped for Michelin stars. But the latter is exactly the offering at this spot next to the Pantheon. Expect moody corridors and spotlit chefs working behind red, semi-translucent curtains in what is one of the city's most exciting kitchens. Here, the menu combines a few mainstays — including the oxtail terrine or green spaghetti — with additional specials taking in the likes of eel and black garlic risotto and a glorious artichoke katsu sando. With a list of more than 90 wines, all available by the glass and mostly Italian, but with a handful of international picks, the restaurant is a real draw for discerning drinkers. For a more relaxed setting, head to Retrovino, the venue's wine bar, tucked out the back. Sit at the counter or linger streetside, glass in hand — with dishes from the main restaurant also available to order there, too. Best for: a casual drinkLocated next to a faded funfair, Fischio is a kiosk-style bar popular for its laid-back atmosphere. Part pavement hangout, part neighbourhood secret, it serves some of the best coffee in the city, thanks in part to its recent hire: the star barista from nearby LOVE, a bakery renowned city-wide for its coffee and pastries. Come late afternoon, the mood at Fischio shifts to a la dolce vita vibe. With a tight, well thought-through wine list and a front-row view of local life drifting past, it's an ideal spot for a glass of sparkling natural wine and a bit of people-watching as the Roman evening sets in. Best for: slices of pizzaThere's no shortage of tourists lining up for pizza by the slice in Rome — and luckily, the city has more than enough quality spots to go round. Skip the queues at the famous Forno Roscioli, and head instead to Circo Massimo to try Fratelli Trecca's thinner, crispier, but equally satisfying slices, with standouts including the rossa con l'erbetta (marinara with parsley sauce) or the cipolle e cipolle, a white base topped with two types of thinly sliced onions, roasted until just shy of caramelised. Come the lunch or dinner rush, the menu expands to include classic Italian charcuterie toppings or other pizza specials like beef tongue with salsa verde or the rustic coppa di testa (pig's head brawn) with chicory. At €2.50 (£2) a slice, it's an affordable, flavour-packed bite that pairs nicely with a pint of the Puglian beer, Raffo, that's served on tap or a glass of natural wine. Best for: outdoor seatingOnce a humble, working-class neighbourhood, Pigneto has become the go-to for weekend drinks among young Romans seeking a break from the hurly-burly of more established areas like Trastevere. At its heart is Necci, a laid-back bar-cafe that's ideal for an al fresco aperitivo. In its gravel-strewn garden with walls draped in jasmine, Necci serves a solid wine list, house cocktails and a menu that blends Italian staples like bucatini all'amatriciana (a simple pork and tomato pasta dish) with international comfort food like chicken schnitzel and forest berry cheesecakes. On sunny Sundays, it's a welcome refuge for a slow brunch — cappuccinos sipped beneath its mature trees are paired with cornetti pastries oozing with apricot jam or pear and chocolate chip almond cakes. Best for: local cheeseJust at the entrance to the Jewish Quarter, this shrine to cheese is home to just few small tables facing a long glass counter stacked high with produce. There are golden shards of Parmigiano Reggiano, wheels of Alpine tommes and lesser-known regional treats including blu dolce di capra — a blue goat's cheese with a sweet creaminess and a tangy bite. Browse from a shelved wall of wine, with plenty of low-intervention varieties and ask the staff to put an accompanying cheeseboard together for you. Simply tell them how much cheese you're after — 200g, 300g or more — and they'll build a board with different options to suit your tastes, and your chosen wine. If looking for a souvenir to take home, a wedge of their well-aged pecorino Romano is the perfect choice. Best for: food market haulJust a few blocks north of the Vatican, at the city's largest and most exciting food market you'll find locals doing their shopping, rather than tourists seeking a photo op. This deeply Roman neighbourhood bazaar has stalls that generally sell ingredients rather than snacks — everything from neatly packaged handmade ravioli and tubs of fresh ricotta to ropes of plaited garlic strung above parades of picky shoppers. One exception would be Il Pescatorio, an unassuming seafood stall by the Via Andrea Doria exit, where you can settle at a bar stool and pick from paper plates piled high with zingy octopus salads, swordfish parmigiana di melanzane and tuna sashimi. Look out for the maretozzos, Il Pescatorio's seafood spin on Rome's famous whipped cream-filled bun maritozzo. Best for: gelato and coffeeOtaleg has long been celebrated for its wildly inventive gelato — the kind that blends seasonal ingredients with a mad genius chef's precision. While most come for a scoop, Otaleg's secret is behind the coffee counter. At the Monteverde branch, award-winning barista Gianni Olimpo — crowned Italy's best in 2022 and 2023 — serves deeply aromatic brews made with meticulously sourced beans. Whether it's a pour-over, Chemex or a textbook espresso, every cup is crafted with care. Pair the perfectly foamed cappuccino with a decadent zabaione-filled cornetto for a morning ritual that rivals any in the city. This Relais & Châteaux hotel, a few steps away from Piazza del Popolo, is housed in a renovated 17th-century building that was once an educational facility for orphaned girls. Rooms are decorated in colourful velvets and contemporary Italian furniture, while the hotel's public spaces carry modern artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol and sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. But the food offerings are the showstopper. The breakfast spread includes generous charcuterie — soft morsels of mortadella and indulgently fatty prosciutto — alongside a pastry table piled with Italian staples such as cream-filled maritozzi. San Baylon, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, helmed by chef Christian Spalvieri and featured in the Michelin Guide, offers a refined take on Italian cuisine with a focus on produce — including olive oil pressed from Palazzo Ripetta's own groves in the volcanic Alban Hills southeast of Rome. There's also the chance to dine in the hotel's lush garden piazzetta and enjoy an aperitivo with a view over Rome's homes and domes at the rooftop bar, Etere. Double rooms from €550 (£463) B&B. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
a day ago
- National Geographic
Where to eat in Rome like a local
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). In Rome, where every other restaurant promises a 'true' carbonara or 'classic' pizza, the pursuit of authenticity can feel elusive. Travellers often stay within the confines of the historical centre and rely on the greatest hits served in well-worn trattorias offering English-language menus. But do as the locals do and seek out culinary quality in Rome's quieter corners and you'll really get a flavour of the city. From contemporary trattorias to wine kiosks, here are nine of the best places to eat in Rome — trusted spots that locals return to time after time. Duck ragù clings to strands of chitarra pasta in this deeply flavourful primo at Santo Palato. Photograph by Berkok Yüksel Santo Palato's tiramisu comes unapologetically tall, with generous layers of rich cream. Photograph by Berkok Yüksel Santo Palato Best for: classic dishes with modern flair Since opening in 2017, Santo Palato has carved out a reputation as one of the capital's most exciting trattorias — a place where Roman classics are revered alongside inventive dishes. In March, it changed location from a small venue in San Giovanni to a larger space in Porta Metronia, unveiling a sharper, more design-forward look with bright orange surfaces, sleek pendant lighting and a glass-walled kitchen. But despite the contemporary look, the spirit of the place remains the same. Wood chairs and comfy tables lend it a cosy, old-school feel, while the menu leans heavily on the Roman canon. Start with one of the best iterations of trippa alla romana in town — Rome-style tripe braised in a rich tomato sauce with pecorino — and don't miss the decadent house carbonara. The daily specials are always worth a glance, too, with dishes such as chitarra pasta with a duck ragu and fried veal brain with a punchy mullet-liver mayo. A standout plate at L'Antidoto: white asparagus with black mulberries, olives and a fermented asparagus sauce. Photograph by Simone Proietti Marcellini At L'Antidoto, chef Mirko Pelosi runs the kitchen solo, crafting inventive small plates with precision and flair. Photograph by Simone Proietti Marcellini Enoteca L'Antidoto Best for: small plates Tucked down a quiet backstreet in Trastevere, this small enoteca (wine bar) offers a low-lit, intimate setting behind hefty double doors marked with large letters 'VI' and 'NO'— 'vino'. Inside, just 16 guests get to try plenty of it, sitting at bar-height tables or at the counter, while a carefully curated collection of vinyl plays out softly. The restaurant's loyal regulars pop in to greet the young chef Mirko Pelosi at the bar before settling in for dinner. Pelosi's experiences in Europe's top Michelin-starred and avant-garde restaurants have been translated into a menu of inventive small plates and a natural-leaning wine list. While the dishes have a clear grounding in Italian cuisine, they do stray beyond its confines. A Japanese-inspired raw tuna dish, for example, sees sashimi slices draped over a vignerola — a Roman spring veggie stew — while a lamb ragu is accompanied by thick Middle Eastern grilled pitas. And don't miss the smoked bottarga (cured fish roe), which is sliced and topped with pickled raw almonds. At Retrobottega, signature plates like wild garlic spaghetti sit alongside seasonal indulgences like the artichoke katsu sando. Photographs by Berkok Yüksel Retrobottega Best for: cool ambiance For many, Rome conjures images of rustic trattorias rather than the minimalist venues tipped for Michelin stars. But the latter is exactly the offering at this spot next to the Pantheon. Expect moody corridors and spotlit chefs working behind red, semi-translucent curtains in what is one of the city's most exciting kitchens. Here, the menu combines a few mainstays — including the oxtail terrine or green spaghetti — with additional specials taking in the likes of eel and black garlic risotto and a glorious artichoke katsu sando. With a list of more than 90 wines, all available by the glass and mostly Italian, but with a handful of international picks, the restaurant is a real draw for discerning drinkers. For a more relaxed setting, head to Retrovino, the venue's wine bar, tucked out the back. Sit at the counter or linger streetside, glass in hand — with dishes from the main restaurant also available to order there, too. At Fischio, the crowd often spills beyond the tables — locals linger around the kiosk with a glass in hand as evening sets in. Fischio Best for: a casual drink Located next to a faded funfair, Fischio is a kiosk-style bar popular for its laid-back atmosphere. Part pavement hangout, part neighbourhood secret, it serves some of the best coffee in the city, thanks in part to its recent hire: the star barista from nearby LOVE, a bakery renowned city-wide for its coffee and pastries. Come late afternoon, the mood at Fischio shifts to a la dolce vita vibe. With a tight, well thought-through wine list and a front-row view of local life drifting past, it's an ideal spot for a glass of sparkling natural wine and a bit of people-watching as the Roman evening sets in. Fratelli Trecca Best for: slices of pizza There's no shortage of tourists lining up for pizza by the slice in Rome — and luckily, the city has more than enough quality spots to go round. Skip the queues at the famous Forno Roscioli, and head instead to Circo Massimo to try Fratelli Trecca's thinner, crispier, but equally satisfying slices, with standouts including the rossa con l'erbetta (marinara with parsley sauce) or the cipolle e cipolle, a white base topped with two types of thinly sliced onions, roasted until just shy of caramelised. Come the lunch or dinner rush, the menu expands to include classic Italian charcuterie toppings or other pizza specials like beef tongue with salsa verde or the rustic coppa di testa (pig's head brawn) with chicory. At €2.50 (£2) a slice, it's an affordable, flavour-packed bite that pairs nicely with a pint of the Puglian beer, Raffo, that's served on tap or a glass of natural wine. Necci dal 1924 Best for: outdoor seating Once a humble, working-class neighbourhood, Pigneto has become the go-to for weekend drinks among young Romans seeking a break from the hurly-burly of more established areas like Trastevere. At its heart is Necci, a laid-back bar-cafe that's ideal for an al fresco aperitivo. In its gravel-strewn garden with walls draped in jasmine, Necci serves a solid wine list, house cocktails and a menu that blends Italian staples like bucatini all'amatriciana (a simple pork and tomato pasta dish) with international comfort food like chicken schnitzel and forest berry cheesecakes. On sunny Sundays, it's a welcome refuge for a slow brunch — cappuccinos sipped beneath its mature trees are paired with cornetti pastries oozing with apricot jam or pear and chocolate chip almond cakes. At Beppe e i suoi formaggi, cheeseboards are built to order from a counter stacked with raw-milk wheels and Alpine specialities. Photograph by Andrea Di Lorenzo Beppe e i suoi formaggi Best for: local cheese Just at the entrance to the Jewish Quarter, this shrine to cheese is home to just few small tables facing a long glass counter stacked high with produce. There are golden shards of Parmigiano Reggiano, wheels of Alpine tommes and lesser-known regional treats including blu dolce di capra — a blue goat's cheese with a sweet creaminess and a tangy bite. Browse from a shelved wall of wine, with plenty of low-intervention varieties and ask the staff to put an accompanying cheeseboard together for you. Simply tell them how much cheese you're after — 200g, 300g or more — and they'll build a board with different options to suit your tastes, and your chosen wine. If looking for a souvenir to take home, a wedge of their well-aged pecorino Romano is the perfect choice. Mercato Trionfale Best for: food market haul Just a few blocks north of the Vatican, at the city's largest and most exciting food market you'll find locals doing their shopping, rather than tourists seeking a photo op. This deeply Roman neighbourhood bazaar has stalls that generally sell ingredients rather than snacks — everything from neatly packaged handmade ravioli and tubs of fresh ricotta to ropes of plaited garlic strung above parades of picky shoppers. One exception would be Il Pescatorio, an unassuming seafood stall by the Via Andrea Doria exit, where you can settle at a bar stool and pick from paper plates piled high with zingy octopus salads, swordfish parmigiana di melanzane and tuna sashimi. Look out for the maretozzos, Il Pescatorio's seafood spin on Rome's famous whipped cream-filled bun maritozzo. Since 2012, Marco Radicioni's Otaleg has redefined Roman gelato with unexpected, chef-driven flavours. Otaleg Best for: gelato and coffee Otaleg has long been celebrated for its wildly inventive gelato — the kind that blends seasonal ingredients with a mad genius chef's precision. While most come for a scoop, Otaleg's secret is behind the coffee counter. At the Monteverde branch, award-winning barista Gianni Olimpo — crowned Italy's best in 2022 and 2023 — serves deeply aromatic brews made with meticulously sourced beans. Whether it's a pour-over, Chemex or a textbook espresso, every cup is crafted with care. Pair the perfectly foamed cappuccino with a decadent zabaione-filled cornetto for a morning ritual that rivals any in the city. The courtyard at Palazzo Ripetta offers a tranquil setting for aperitivi and all-day dining beneath the Roman sky. Photograph by Palazzo Ripetta Where to stay: Palazzo Ripetta This Relais & Châteaux hotel, a few steps away from Piazza del Popolo, is housed in a renovated 17th-century building that was once an educational facility for orphaned girls. Rooms are decorated in colourful velvets and contemporary Italian furniture, while the hotel's public spaces carry modern artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol and sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. But the food offerings are the showstopper. The breakfast spread includes generous charcuterie — soft morsels of mortadella and indulgently fatty prosciutto — alongside a pastry table piled with Italian staples such as cream-filled maritozzi. San Baylon, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, helmed by chef Christian Spalvieri and featured in the Michelin Guide, offers a refined take on Italian cuisine with a focus on produce — including olive oil pressed from Palazzo Ripetta's own groves in the volcanic Alban Hills southeast of Rome. There's also the chance to dine in the hotel's lush garden piazzetta and enjoy an aperitivo with a view over Rome's homes and domes at the rooftop bar, Etere. Double rooms from €550 (£463) B&B. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
