How to wear a French manicure (without looking like a Noughties WAG)

Telegraph

25-03-2025

A natural base with a white tip, the classic French manicure, is one of the most popular nail trends of all time. Originally designed in the 1970s by Jeff Pink, the founder of nail-care brand Orly, the French manicure – which confusingly isn't French, since Pink was American – was designed to be the sort of nonchalant, go-with-anything manicure that looked effortlessly Parisian and très chic.
Indeed it did, but for a long time, in my mind at least, the French manicure felt extremely… noughties, or in fact, exceedingly 2006. It was the go-to manicure for the England WAGs for the World Cup tournament. Along with a fake tan and big sunglasses, the French manicure was key to the WAG aesthetic, sported by Victoria Beckham, Coleen Rooney and Cheryl Cole. The manicure had morphed to include an unnatural shade of bubblegum pink as the base colour, and a long tip painted in a thick coating of Tippex-white polish. My boyishly short nails – sometimes painted but most often not – did not fit the bill.
However, the nouveau French nail of 2025 is my new obsession. It's a 'neat and tidy' nail, focusing more on the nails looking natural to your skin tone, extremely healthy with a soft-white tip that looks elegant – no long nails required. A micro French is the newest iteration of the classic, whereby a thin stripe of a milky white polish is applied to the tips, so it works even on short nails.
There's no-more thick coverage, either. Over the past five years there has been a boom in the demand for manicures (and, in particular, gel manicures) that resemble the natural nail but better. The technology in nail varnish is so much better nowadays, too: whereas 20 years ago gel nails were thick and fake-looking, modern-day gels are thin and flexible with excellent lasting power. My go-to manicure brand is Bio Sculpture, a gel that keeps my nails healthy underneath with a manicure looking glossy and fresh for up to three weeks.
'I recommend looking for a colour that elevates the shade of your natural nail plate,' says Julia Diogo, an expert nail technician for Bio Sculpture. She's a fan of the French manicure as a flattering choice for women of all ages and skin tones. For fair or light skin, a rose-based shade like Bio Sculpture's Ghost Rose (£15) looks flawless, whereas Lyrics of a Lily (£12) offers the perfect nude for those with darker skin tones and Spun Out of Dreams (£12) looks chic on those with olive undertones.
'There isn't a one-size-fits-all but I find that all of these look amazing as a French base or on their own for an effortlessly fresh look,' Diogo adds. If you want something a little more interesting, she has been painting colourful micro French tips recently (it's surprising how pretty a thin stroke of cherry red can look on the tips of short, manicured nails).
Of course, the key to a good manicure is having nails that look as natural and healthy as possible to begin with. This is where well-maintained cuticles come in. A good manicurist spends almost as much time tending to the cuticles as the colour applied on the nails. There is plenty we can do from home, too. Regular care, such as gently pushing back your cuticles and keeping them moisturised, ensures healthy nail growth and a more professional finish.
In what is probably a bit of a full circle moment for the original WAG Victoria Beckham, at her fashion show in Paris earlier this month the models backstage had beautiful manicures by on-demand beauty service Ruuby. The look? 'A treatment-led manicure designed to prioritise nail strength, hydration and long-term health – a new go-to nail ritual for achieving that ultimate nude nail goal.' A nouveau French even for Posh, it would seem.
Natural nail must-haves
Hand & Cuticle Serum, £15.95, Navy
A good cuticle oil is a must and a few drops of this has become my go-to. 'From an aesthetic perspective, well-maintained cuticles give a polished and tidy appearance to the nails, enhancing the overall look of your manicure,' explains Rebecca Crawforth, founder of Navy Professional.
Cuticle sticks, £1, superdrug
Keep a couple of these handy to gently push back your cuticles. But be careful if cutting cuticles yourself: 'It can damage the nail,' warns Crawforth.