Demna to take final bow at Balenciaga during Paris Haute Couture Week as Glenn Martens debuts at Maison Margiela
Demna, known for his daring work as well as controversies during his decade-long stint at Kering-owned Balenciaga, will unveil his final collection on Wednesday in what is expected to be one of the highlights of the week.
Not to be confused with Paris Fashion Week, Haute Couture Week takes place exclusively in Paris — in January for spring-summer collections and July for autumn-winter.
It is a uniquely French event dedicated to handcrafted, one-of-a-kind creations made to wear at red carpets, galas, and other high-profile events.
The 44-year-old Demna, acclaimed by millennials and Gen-Z stars from Kim Kardashian to British pop sensation Charli XCX, has been tasked with reviving the flagging fortunes of Gucci by Kering CEO Francois-Henri Pinault.
After multiplying sales at Balenciaga, where he made headlines with a US$2,000 'Ikea' bag and a US$1,800 so-called 'trash pouch', he is currently being honoured with an exhibition titled 'Balenciaga by Demna' at Kering's Paris headquarters.
He will be succeeded by Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, who is set to present his first collection in October during Paris Women's Fashion Week.
As usual, Schiaparelli will open Couture Week, followed later in the day by shows from Iris Van Herpen — returning after a year-long break — as well as Georges Hobeika, Imane Ayissi, Rahul Mishra, Julie de Libran, and Giambattista Valli.
After Demna's farewell on Wednesday, Belgian designer Glenn Martens will find himself in the spotlight as he unveils a first collection for Maison Margiela following his appointment in January to succeed British designer John Galliano.
American designer Michael Rider, who succeeded Hedi Slimane as chief designer at Celine, unveiled his first collection for the luxury French brand on Sunday, outside the official calendar.
Absences
On Tuesday, Chanel will present the final collection created by its in-house design studio, the fifth since Virginie Viard's sudden departure in June 2024.
Her successor, the discreet and highly respected Franco-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy, was appointed in December and will showcase his first collection for Chanel in October.
Up to Thursday, 27 houses will unveil their creations, including Elie Saab, Armani Prive, Aelis, Viktor&Rolf, Adeline Andre, and Dubai-based Rami Al Ali who is set to become the first Syrian to join the official calendar.
Following a spate of major changes at fashion houses, some absences will stand out, particularly Dior's.
After a highly anticipated debut during the men's Fashion Week on June 27, newly appointed artistic director Jonathan Anderson is holding back his first haute couture collection for January 2026.
Named in early June to lead Dior's women's and couture lines as well, the 40-year-old Northern Irishman has become the first person since founder Christian Dior himself to oversee all three branches of the house.
Jean Paul Gaultier is also missing.
Dutch designer Duran Lantink, appointed as the brand's permanent artistic director in April, will make his debut during Women's Fashion Week in October.
Since stepping back in 2020, Jean Paul Gaultier has handed over the reins of his couture collections to a series of guest designers, including Olivier Rousteing, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Haider Ackermann, and Simone Rocha.
The week will wrap up with a show by Swiss designer Kevin Germanier. — AFP
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Malay Mail
11 hours ago
- Malay Mail
Catholic Woodstock? Screaming faithful cheer ‘rock star' Pope Leo in record-breaking Rome youth vigil
ROME, Aug 3 — Hundreds of thousands of young faithful feted Pope Leo XIV like a rock star yesterday at an open-air prayer vigil outside Rome, after the head of the Catholic Church made a dramatic entrance by helicopter. Pilgrims began crying and cheering when the white military helicopter descended over the sprawling, open-air site in Rome's eastern outskirts; Organisers said as more than 800,000 young pilgrims from 146 countries around the world had assembled there as part of a 'Jubilee of Youth' — and perhaps as many as a million. Smiling broadly from his popemobile, the first American pope waved to throngs of young, screaming pilgrims lining his route, many of them running for a better vantage point. They had already spent the day in the hot sun listening to music, praying and talking with fellow Catholics. 'The pope is here!' announced an excited voice over the public address, to thunderous applause and cheers from the crowd. But the tenor of the event soon became more solemn and contemplative as the pope took to the stage, carrying a large wood cross. 'Dear young people, after walking, praying and sharing these days of grace of the Jubilee dedicated to you, we now gather together in the light of the advancing evening to keep vigil together,' Leo, 69, told them. Pope Leo XIV (centre) greets the crowd in a papamobile as he arrives in Rome's eastern Tor Vergata neighbourhood for a prayer vigil before Sunday Mass as part of the Jubilee of Youth, on August 2, 2025. — AFP pic A Catholic 'Woodstock' In the crowd was French pilgrim Julie Mortier, 18, whose voice was hoarse from singing and screaming for hours. 'We're too happy to be here! Seeing the pope, that's a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!' she croaked happily to AFP. Event organisers said people had continued to arrive during the vigil and that it was possible that attendance numbers had reached one million. Most pilgrims said they would camp overnight for a Sunday morning mass at the site led by Leo. That will mark the culmination of the week-long youth pilgrimage, a key event in the Catholic Church's Jubilee holy year. Some in the crowd were so far away, they could not see the massive stage with a golden arch and towering cross that dominated the vast open area — which at over 500,000 square metres was the size of around 70 football fields. 'I'm so happy to be here, even if I'm a bit far from the pope. I knew what to expect!' British student Andy Hewellyn told AFP. 'The main thing is that we're all together,' he said ahead of the pope's appearance, as other young people nearby played guitars, sang, or snoozed in the sun. Italian broadcaster Rai dubbed the event a Catholic 'Woodstock', as throughout the day nearly two dozen musical and dance groups, many of them religious, entertained the crowds, who lounged among blankets, cushions and umbrellas. In a video message, Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni welcomed pilgrims to the capital, who were 'praying, singing, joking amongst themselves, celebrating in an extraordinary party'. Youth and pilgrims gather in Rome's eastern Tor Vergata neighbourhood for a prayer vigil led by the Pope before Sunday Mass as part of the Jubilee of Youth, on August 2, 2025. — AFP pic Water and suncream The 'Jubilee of Youth', which began Monday, comes nearly three months after the start of Leo's papacy, and 25 years after the last such massive youth gathering in Rome under Poland's Pope John Paul II. Early yesterday, countless groups of young people set off from central Rome for the venue in Tor Vergata after filling water bottles, applying suncream and adjusting backpacks. They were ready to spend the next 24 hours surrounded by a crowd of people and then sleep under the stars. Victoria Perez, who carried a Spanish flag, could not contain her excitement at seeing 'the pope up close'. 'It's the first time I'm going to see him, and I can't wait,' the 21-year-old told AFP, looking forward to a 'night of prayers under the stars'. French pilgrim Quentin Remaury, 26, said he had been inspired by the late pope Francis's rousing message to youth during a 2016 visit to Krakow, Poland. 'Pope Francis told us to 'get off your couches,' and that really gave me a boost,' he said. Pope Leo XIV (centre) holds the cross as he arrives in Rome's eastern Tor Vergata neighbourhood for a prayer vigil before Sunday Mass as part of the Jubilee of Youth, on August 2, 2025. — AFP pic Open-air confessional Throughout the week, attendees have participated in Church-planned events, such as confession at Circus Maximus, one of Rome's top tourist spots. On Friday, approximately 1,000 priests were on hand, with 200 white gazebos serving as makeshift confessionals lining the hippodrome where chariot races were once held in Ancient Rome. The pilgrimage unfolds as under-30s navigate economic uncertainty, climate change, and ongoing international conflict, with some pilgrims travelling from war-torn areas like Syria and Ukraine. Samarei Semos, 29, who said she had travelled three days from her native Belize to get to Rome, said she hoped Leo would have a strong say about 'third world countries'. The Vatican said that before the vigil the pope had met and prayed with travellers accompanying an 18-year-old Egyptian pilgrim who died Friday night. Rai News reported that the young woman had died of a heart attack on a bus while returning to her lodging from an event in Rome. Amid tight security, more than 4,300 volunteers and over 1,000 police are watching over the vigil, organisers said. — AFP
Malay Mail
a day ago
- Malay Mail
Thousands of young Catholics gather in Rome for Pope Leo XIV's youth vigil
ROME, Aug 2 — Thousands of young Catholics began assembling today for an evening prayer vigil led by Pope Leo XIV, the culmination of a week-long pilgrimage and a key event in the Jubilee holy year that is expected to draw up to a million people. The 'Jubilee of Youth'—when the Vatican invites Catholics aged 18 to 35 to the seat of the global Church's power—has seen young pilgrims from around the world flood Rome, waving flags, singing or praying in groups. It comes nearly three months after Leo, 69, the first American pontiff, began his papacy, and 25 years after the last such massive youth gathering in Rome under Poland's Pope John Paul II. On Saturday morning, thousands of young pilgrims had already gathered at the vast open space in Rome's eastern Tor Vergata neighbourhood where the pope will lead the vigil, the ground already dotted with blankets and mattresses. Elsewhere in the Eternal City, numerous groups of young people were seen preparing to set off for the venue. On the plaza outside the Basilica of St John Lateran, they filled water bottles, applied suncream and checked bags of food and snacks—ready to spend the next 24 hours surrounded by a swarm of people and then sleep under the stars. Victoria Perez, who carried a Spanish flag, could not contain her excitement at seeing 'the Pope up close. 'It's the first time I'm going to see him, and I can't wait,' the 21-year-old told AFP, excited to experience the 'night of prayers under the stars'. French pilgrim, Quentin Remaury, 26, said he had been inspired by the late Pope Francis's rousing message to youth during a 2016 visit to Krakow, Poland. 'Pope Francis told us to 'get off your couches,' and that really gave me a boost,' he said. 'What is his message?' Since the youth jubilee began on Monday, attendees have participated in various Church-planned events throughout the city. On Friday, approximately 1,000 priests were on hand to take confession at Circus Maximus, one of Rome's top tourist spots. Some 200 white gazebos lined the hippodrome where chariot races were once held and youths lined up to speak to priests in 10 different languages. Of the many languages heard on the streets of the Italian capital this week, Spanish seemed to dominate. The Vatican has said that more than 146 countries were represented and it expects up to a million people to attend the vigil. The pilgrimage is taking place as economic uncertainty and anxiety over climate change rises among the under-30s, with many saying they were curious to hear the Church's position on global warming, wars and economic inequalities. Samarei Semos, 29, said she had travelled three days from her native Belize to get to Rome. 'We are still trying to understand his leadership,' she said of the new pope, adding she hoped he would have a strong say about 'third world countries'. As Parisian student Alice Berry exclaimed: 'What does he have to say to us? What is his message for young people?' Raising voices The youth pilgrimage also comes amid global alarm over the humanitarian situation in Gaza, and more than three years of war in Ukraine. The Vatican has praised young Catholics who managed to travel to Rome from war-scarred countries, with Pope Leo saying the voices of the world's youth 'will be heard to the end of the earth'. In an unprecedented move, Leo hosted a mass Tuesday for Catholic social media influencers, signalling the Vatican's openness to supporting the Internet-savvy youth. More than 4,300 volunteers will be working the event to welcome the young pilgrims, along with over 1,000 police, according to organisers. Rome authorities have tightened security in the city—which has seen an unprecedented number of people, with both tourists and pilgrims inundated the city. — AFP
The Star
2 days ago
- The Star
Kim Kardashian's face wrap for Skims fuels beauty pressure debate
It's a telling sign of current beauty standards that Kim Kardashian's shapewear and underwear brand, Skims, has started selling a piece of headgear that bears a close resemblance to a postsurgery compression garment. Skims' Seamless Sculpt Face Wrap, which was released Tuesday (Aug 29) and sells for US$48 (approximately RM205), is billed as something that will scoop up the cheeks, neck and chin and hold them in place. The product generated much online chatter in the hours after the company unveiled it on Instagram and is now available only on a waiting list. With its chin strap and Velcro closures, the Seamless Sculpt Face Wrap is eerily similar to the bandagelike garments worn by patients who have undergone intensive cosmetic surgery, said Dr Jonathan Sykes, a plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills, California, and the former president of the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. In its promotional language, Skims says its facial wrap is made from the same 'signature sculpting fabric' as its shapewear shorts and tank tops. It is also said to include 'collagen yarn', though it's unclear what that is. The company did not immediately respond to requests for comment. Read more: Shrouded in secrecy: What's up with the Kim Kardashian and Nike fashion team up? The wrap is an effort by Kardashian to bring beauty products under the Skims umbrella after the shuttering of her makeup and skin care line, SKKN by Kim, last month. It also signals her entry into the growing universe of devices that offer the chimeric promise of a more sculpted face without the surgery, said Jessica DeFino, a beauty critic and writer of the Review Of Beauty newsletter. Kardashian is 'capitalising on this look that she likely got with much more expensive, potentially invasive, treatments, and is trying to sell it to the general public', DeFino said, with a product that 'will just never give a consumer the result that they are looking for'. The release of the product comes at a time when members of the Kardashian family and other celebrities have become more candid about their body-enhancing procedures, such as Botox and breast augmentations, and the use of photo-editing apps. The pursuit of so-called 'snatched face' has driven demand for an array of beauty devices in recent years, said Anna Keller, a senior global analyst at the market research agency Mintel. More people are seeking out affordable ways to achieve results that would typically cost time and money at a dermatologist's clinic or a luxury spa. One of these products, a hand-held machine from the beauty brand NuFace, is said by its manufacturer to rely on 'microcurrent' to 'increase cellular energy' and 'improve facial tone'; others use red-light therapy to target inflammation. In clinical settings, compression garments can reduce swelling after liposuction procedures or face-lifts, said Dr Alan Matarasso, a plastic surgeon in New York City. Since becoming commercially available, they have also been used to treat nonsurgical inflammation, such as what arises 'if you had a salty meal or a pizza that's going to make you a little bit puffy in the morning', Matarasso said. The latest devices for the face, he added, are imperfect solutions for those who cannot afford or may not want cosmetic surgery, because they are likely to provide only short-lived results. Skin Gym, a company that produces several beauty devices, started selling its own facial wrap this year, said Karina Sulzer, the brand's founder. 'It sold out maybe five times,' she added. Read more: 'Michael Jordan of influencers': Can Kim Kardashian best the activewear market? Social media has only turbocharged the trend. The hashtag #facesculpting has led half a billion TikTok users to videos of people pulling and pinching at their faces, with or without specially designed tools, in attempts to attain the latest beauty standards. The hashtag #morningshed – with users posting videos of themselves removing the layers of skin care products and devices they have worn while sleeping – has racked up more than one billion views. In Instagram posts about its new facial wrap, Skims nodded to #morningshed by recommending that its product be worn overnight – a suggestion that DeFino, the beauty writer, considered a 'depressing' sign. 'What that says to me is that this pressure to look beautiful has become so consuming that there is not even a moment of our day – while we are sleeping – that has not been commodified for the project of becoming more beautiful,' DeFino said. – ©2025 The New York Times Company This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
