
10 of the best hotels in Cascais
The sophisticated, arty beach resort Cascais lies 20 miles west of Lisbon and is peppered with gorgeous 19th-century villas, built by the European beau monde who followed Portugal's royal family here to escape the city's summer heat. While some villas are now museums, others have been converted into stylish hotels, giving you the chance to stay in historic splendour close to the town's sheltered sandy beaches and cobbled, picturesque heart. While the nearest to the centre tend to be small boutiques without much room for extensive facilities, there's another clutch in Santa Marta around the marina and former citadel that have a more seaside feel, with pools and spas. Further west, in the golf course-filled Quinta da Marinha suburb and within reach of wild, Atlantic-battered beaches, there are spacious, self-contained resort hotels suited to golfers and families, and still novmore than a 15-minute drive from the attractions of the centre.
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£££ | Best for a central location
Overlooking the beach and right in the very heart of Cascais's cobbled centre, this converted 19th-century villa puts you within easy walking distance of all the sights. The decor is striking; contemporary with historic touches, from azulejo tiles to vintage wooden shoe forms. The 11 rooms are mono-tonal — either blue, green or grey — giving a sheltered, jewellery box feel. Corleone Ristorante al Mare is a beautiful Italian restaurant serving arancini, cacio e pepe, cannoli and Italian wines. Seats on the terrace have lovely views of the bay. There's no pool or spa, but you are steps from the sea, and the hotel has its own speedboat for hire.
£ | POOL | Best for stylish value
Cascais is small, so while this tranquil boutique hotel is set in a quiet residential street at the very edge of what could be considered the centre, it's still only a 15-minute walk into the heart of town. In return you'll get excellent value at this little oasis where spacious, contemporary rooms and suites, many with kitchenettes, are beautifully decorated and themed around Portugal's era of exploration. Large, leafy gardens shelter two swimming pools, an extensive buffet breakfast is served in the airy dining room and complimentary coffee and tea is on offer all day — with cake in the afternoons.
£££ | POOL | Best for creative flair
This 17-room boutique is hands-down the coolest hotel in Cascais. An elegant, 19th-century mansion with Rococo flamboyance has been paired with a modern extension housed within an intricate webbing of concrete, the façade itself an artwork by the Portuguese street artist Vhils. Rooms in the original mansion are sumptuous but neutral; the more avant-garde Artist Rooms in the wing sit within the concrete lattice which dapples the light and subdivides the view. The restaurant serves pretty plates focused on seasonal seafood and the rooftop terrace has a plunge pool and honesty bar. Right on the edge of the old centre and neighbouring the Cidadela Art District — all contemporary sculptures and murals — the hotel is also close to the beach.
££ | POOL | SPA | Best for art lovers
Formerly Cascais's 17th-century citadel, this beautifully-converted hotel sits in the heart of the town's art district, and has galleries and artists' workshops on site, and intriguing pieces scattered throughout the hotel — plus there's an art concierge on hand to direct you. The outdoor pool is in the fortress gardens, and there's an indoor option at the spa. Maris Stella restaurant has a terrace overlooking the marina, plus there's a more casual 'taberna' with small plates and wines by the glass. The 133 rooms and suites are soundproofed, with options overlooking the fortress, the sea and the marina.
££ | POOL | SPA | Best for family escapes
This hotel has strong family-friendly credentials. The marine-themed kids club is a standout for under 12s, with everything from a sensory room and ball pit to an interactive tech wall with multi-player games. The pine-shaded grounds have a playground and large free-form pool with a casual restaurant while the heated indoor pool in the spa has family hours. The bright, airy rooms are large — deluxe options with bunk beds and suites with sofa beds sleep four — and many also interconnect. With 72 rooms and 12 two-bedroom villas in the grounds, calling this hotel boutique may be a bit of a stretch, but it definitely has an intimate atmosphere. Wind-whipped Praia do Guincho is a ten-minute drive away; Cascais centre and its protected sands are ten minutes further.
• Best places to visit in Portugal• Read our full guide to Portugal
£££ | POOL | Best for old-school glamour
The noble families who accompanied the Portuguese royals on their summer jaunts to Cascais in the 19th century weren't daft. The main building of this hotel, originally the Duke of Loulé's villa, has an enviably central location on low cliffs overlooking the beach in the heart of town. Sipping wine on the terrace of the sea-view restaurant, reclining on the wooden loungers by the palm-fringed pool or zipping along the coast on the hotel's yacht, you'll start to feel aristocratic yourself. For historic grandeur, choose a room in the main villa or the elaborate Italianate palace behind it; in the modern annexe you'll find more extensive glazing and bigger balconies.
££ | Best for high-end dining
Twin cannons and giant wooden gates remind you that this hotel was formerly a fortress, but the primrose shade of the imposing exterior walls promise that things inside have softened since the 17th century. This is certainly true in the Michelin-starred restaurant, where tasting menus showcase the region's seafood. Sitting on a rugged headland between two beaches within the protected Sintra-Cascais natural park to the town's north-west, the hotel's clifftop location means most of the handsome rooms and suites, adorned with dark wood furniture, have sea views. There's no pool or spa, although the hotel has agreements allowing the use of nearby facilities. The centre of Cascais is a 20-minute drive away.
£££ | POOL | SPA | Best for wellness breaks
Converted from the palace of Umberto II, the last king of Italy who lived in exile in Cascais, this luxurious hotel brings Italian flair to the Portuguese seafront. The large spa, modelled after a Roman bath house, has a thalassotherapy circuit and a wide range of treatments, and the Belvedere restaurant serves classic Italian cuisine. The 124 well-upholstered rooms and suites overlook the sea or gardens, with the grandest in the original palace wing, and the large, cabana-fringed pool faces the ocean. It's a wonderful spot to unwind, but still a short walk from the marina and the old centre.
££ | POOL | SPA | Best for travelling with teens
A sprawling, terracotta-toned resort hotel set among the golf courses on Cascais's outskirts, this smart spot has the facilities to appeal to families with older children, including an arcade room for gaming, bikes to rent, and horse-riding and surfing lessons. For younger siblings, there's a playground and a kids' club during the summer holidays. Two-bedroom suites and three and four-bed residences come with kitchens and living rooms, and alongside the main restaurant serving classic Mediterranean dishes there's also a Japanese offering sushi and sashimi. There's a pool to loaf around, plus free shuttles into Cascais and to Guincho beach.
££ | POOL | Best for sea views
Perched on the rocky cliffs at the edge of town, near the Boca do Inferno rock arch, through which waves crash dramatically, the hotel is named after the neighbouring lighthouse — both have expansive ocean views. Combining a whitewashed historic villa with a smart glass extension, contemporary design dominates throughout, from the light-flooded restaurant and the clean-lined pool deck to the 33 rooms, most of which have sea views. It's a five-minute walk to the marina, 15 to the centre of town.
• Best holiday villas in Portugal• Porto v Lisbon: which is better?
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BBC News
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- BBC News
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Why do we dress like someone else when we go on holiday? From multipurpose utility garments to Instagrammable maxi dresses and floppy hats, one thing is for sure – we don't dress this way at home. An American friend recently asked me what to wear on her first flight to Europe. "I want to be comfy but chic," she said. She'd come to the wrong person. As a travel journalist, I'm either on assignment, sun cream-smeared in hiking boots and hauling a rucksack like a tortoise shell; or travelling light with a five-piece capsule wardrobe in beige neutrals to leave space for edible souvenirs. Meanwhile, many of my fellow travellers parade past in floral gowns, breezy summer whites or cosy pyjama-like layers. Sometimes I glimpse my own reflection and feel a pang of FOMO. Should I have worn a floral dress to photograph ruins? I don't even own one. Or perhaps instead of clunky hiking boots, I would be more comfortable in a pair of Birkenstocks, with thick white socks hiked up to my knees. 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Warm weather necessitated lighter, breathable fabrics such as linen and silk, and by the interwar period, designers like Coco Chanel were championing relaxed styles such as casual knitwear, wide-leg trousers and swimwear. "The post-World War Two economic boom, coupled with the advent of commercial aviation, democratised travel further," Franceschini added. "From the 1950s to the '70s, leisurewear evolved into a distinct genre: Capri pants, resort prints, kaftans and cruise collections became staples." Franceschini also notes that the need to dress for unfamiliar temperatures "[permits] a certain relaxation of social dress codes". That explains sandals with socks. Backpacks and backlash And yet, it is a universally acknowledged truth that no one wants to look like a tourist. Lifestyle publications teem with articles steering travellers away from the reviled traditional tourist kit – T-shirt, backpack and hat – proposing, instead, luggage-conscious capsule wardrobes inspired by the destination itself. When Vanessa Friedman, chief fashion critic at the New York Times, receives reader questions about how not to look like a tourist on holiday, she taps locals for their input to make her recommendations. "I think people dress to belong," she told the BBC. "So, when you're travelling, you don't want to stand out." But if the term "tourist" conveys a sense of escape from the everyday, what's so terrible about looking like one? "There are some interesting negative connotations about being a tourist," said Dr Charlotte Russell, founder of The Travel Psychologist. "Ideas around being seen as naïve, not being experienced or well-travelled, perhaps clumsy with regard to cultural differences and potentially falling prey to unfair pricing. None of us want to be any of these things, so it's unsurprising that people want to differentiate themselves from these stereotypes." Franceschini believes that this wariness likely emerged in the late 20th Century, "as global travel became more accessible and distinctions between the traveller and the tourist became increasingly codified". Anyone booking travel back then – the dawn of internet travel planning and the expat blog boom – would have witnessed that ever-growing chasm between the two. The smug verdict: tourists, who visit a place for mere days, are less culturally savvy than travellers, who may be privileged enough to spend months or even years overseas. Dr Andrew Stevenson, author of the book The Psychology of Travel, believes this dichotomy reveals something deeper: how we want to be seen. "Do you want to present yourself as somebody who's trying to blend in, like an anthropologist?" asked Stevenson. "Or do you want to erect a barrier between yourself and the host location, because maybe you've got safety concerns, or you want to travel in a bubble with your travel party? I think clothes are a symbol of how much belongingness we want to have with the place we're visiting." Do my day-to-night layers and rugged footwear merely reflect that I'm segueing from 10km hikes to interviewing government officials? Or that I want to signal my identity as a travel journalist? 'Monica Vitti is dead' Picture it: Sicily, The White Lotus Season Two. Jennifer Coolidge as the daffy, doomed Tanya McQuoid has rented a Vespa and is ecstatic in her flowy pink dress, pink headscarf and giant sunglasses. "Guess who I am?" she asks the hotel manager, Valentina. "Watch, watch." Tanya takes a drag from her cigarette, exhaling smoke in a sultry stream. Valentina, a bona fide Italian woman in a no-nonsense double-breasted blue pantsuit, is nonplussed. She hazards a guess: "Peppa Pig." Tanya beams: "I'm Monica Vitti!" "Monica Vitti is dead," snaps Valentina. Rarely has a scene of television so perfectly encapsulated the yawning gulf between what people wear and what overseas visitors believe they wear. I've been based in Southern Italy for 15 years; if you see someone swanning around in a flowy dress and hat, they are 100% a tourist. Franceschini calls it a kind of "sartorial mimicry", observing that "clothing choices are often influenced by an imagined or real desire to either assimilate with the local culture or to symbolically participate in it". Like Bermuda shorts or Hawaiian shirts, she says, these outfits are clichéd, but they are also signs of cultural aspiration and symbolic belonging. However, she cautions that they can also veer into cultural appropriation, where items are worn "without an understanding of their cultural context or significance". Tanya's "Dolce Vita" look, Franceschini added, is a contemporary iteration of long-romanticised visions of Mediterranean leisure, femininity and glamour. "Rooted in cinematic depictions from Federico Fellini's La Dolce Vita to more recent iterations like the season of The White Lotus set in Italy, this mode of dress draws heavily on idealised representations of Italy as a sensual, timeless and emotionally unburdened destination… These choices are often less about actual cultural integration and more about performing a version of Italy that aligns with global stereotypes – sun-drenched, stylish and hedonistic." In other words, imagine an overseas visitor visiting London dressed as Twiggy, or the US dressed as Marilyn Monroe. The Instagram effect It's hardly news that social media presents a highly curated view of everyday life. But, that knowledge doesn't stop us from consuming holiday content, where influencers and celebrities pose thirstily in front of beautiful places while wearing beautiful things. Russell believes that these aspirational travel posts have a significant impact how people dress when they travel. "We see a lot of images of people looking dressed up from everywhere to the Colosseum to natural places and even at the top of mountains," she said. "This certainly was not the case 15 years ago, and I definitely think there has been a shift." "I remember when people used to take photographs of places and things," echoed Stevenson. "But now people take photographs of themselves, and the places and things are in the background." The result? "A convergence of fashion and digital spectacle: locations become backdrops," said Franceschini. "Outfits become integral to the performative self-branding of the traveller. Influencer culture has further accelerated this dynamic, with sponsored wardrobes, coordinated colour palettes and editorial-style holiday shots becoming standard." It brings to mind a quote from the legendary late American actress Betty White: "Facebook just sounds like a drag; in my day, seeing pictures of people's vacations was considered punishment." Time to celebrate Of course, it's exciting to go somewhere new, and how we dress on holiday is a reflection of that joy. "Holiday dress often functions as a performative break from the conventions of daily life," said Franceschini. "On holiday, people permit themselves to wear clothing that might be deemed inappropriate, excessive or impractical in their everyday environments. Holiday wear can thus be read as a sartorial manifestation of the freedom, or at least escapism, and sensory indulgence associated with travel." Russell agrees: "For many of us, we are working on laptops all day or may have uniforms at work, and we dress for function and comfort. So, a holiday is an opportunity to explore a different part of ourselves. A part that is perhaps more carefree, joyful and relaxed." Whether that self wears hiking boots or pink chiffon, the same truth applies. "If you want to wear a beautiful dress or bright shirt, and it feels right to you, then this is totally okay," said Russell. "Life is too short for worrying about judgements from others." And so is your holiday. -- For more Travel stories from the BBC, follow us on Facebook, X and Instagram.