Recipe: Young, aged, and smoked Gouda all go into this delicious, indulgent mac and cheese
While some children reject any mac and cheese that doesn't come from a blue and yellow box, other young diners, along with many adults, appreciate the complex flavors of a homemade version mixed with an unexpected cheese. This one contains young, aged, and smoked Gouda, a semi-hard cow's milk cheese made in the Netherlands. Young (plain) Gouda is aged only a few weeks and has a light ivory color with the mildest flavor. Aged Gouda ripens for one to three years, creating a firmer texture and a much sharper flavor; aged Gouda can have a Parmesan-like texture. Smoked Gouda, as the name suggests, has a distinctly smoky flavor, and the texture can range from creamy to hard, depending on its age. Here, we use young and smoked cheeses in the sauce, grated aged Gouda for a crunchy topping. We think the ideal pasta shape for mac and cheese is not the traditional elbow, but rather a shape called lumache, commonly known as ''shellbows'' (a shell/elbow hybrid). They're ridged, with one narrow, almost closed, end and the other open, which helps trap this creamy sauce made with evaporated milk and half and half. Or use another short pasta such as cavatappi (corkscrews). For the finishing touch on this indulgent meal, top with a cheesy breadcrumb and bacon crumble.
TOPPING 4 strips bacon
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large shallot, finely chopped
½ cup grated aged Gouda or Parmesan
1 cup panko or other unseasoned dry white breadcrumbs
Black pepper, to taste
1. Set the oven at 375 degrees. Have on hand a plate lined with paper towels and a rimmed baking sheet.
2. In a large skillet over medium heat, lay out the slices of bacon in a single layer. Cook for 7 minutes, turning halfway through frying, or until the bacon is brown and crispy. With tongs, transfer the bacon to the paper towels; cool.
3. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots, and cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes or until soft. Transfer to the paper towels; cool.
4. In a food processor, combine the bacon, shallots, Gouda or Parmesan, panko, and a generous sprinkle of pepper. Pulse until finely chopped.
5. Transfer the crumb mixture to the rimmed baking sheet, and spread it out evenly. Bake the crumbs for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring every 2 to 3 minutes, or until well toasted. Leave to cool. Break up any large chunks.
PASTA Salt and pepper, to taste
12 ounces short pasta, such as lumache (shellbows) or cavatappi (corkscrews)
1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
1 cup half and half
8 ounces smoked Gouda, shredded (2 cups)
1 pound young (plain) Gouda, shredded (4 cups)
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes, or according to the package directions, or until the pasta is tender but still has some bite. Dip a heatproof measuring cup into the water and reserve 1 cup. Drain the pasta into a colander; do not rinse.
2. Meanwhile, in a large heavy-based saucepan or flameproof casserole, heat the evaporated milk and half and half until the liquid begins to simmer. One handful at a time, stir in the smoked and young Gouda, waiting until each addition melts before adding more.
3. Add the pasta, 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water, and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Stir well. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.
4. Remove from the heat, cover the pan, and set aside for 10 minutes so the sauce thickens a little.
5. If the pasta has cooled too much while resting, reheat it gently, adding a bit more pasta water if needed.
6. Spoon into bowls and top with the crispy breadcrumb mixture.
Karoline Boehm Goodnick
Serves 4
While some children reject any mac and cheese that doesn't come from a blue and yellow box, other young diners, along with many adults, appreciate the complex flavors of a homemade version mixed with an unexpected cheese. This one contains young, aged, and smoked Gouda, a semi-hard cow's milk cheese made in the Netherlands. Young (plain) Gouda is aged only a few weeks and has a light ivory color with the mildest flavor. Aged Gouda ripens for one to three years, creating a firmer texture and a much sharper flavor; aged Gouda can have a Parmesan-like texture. Smoked Gouda, as the name suggests, has a distinctly smoky flavor, and the texture can range from creamy to hard, depending on its age. Here, we use young and smoked cheeses in the sauce, grated aged Gouda for a crunchy topping. We think the ideal pasta shape for mac and cheese is not the traditional elbow, but rather a shape called lumache, commonly known as ''shellbows'' (a shell/elbow hybrid). They're ridged, with one narrow, almost closed, end and the other open, which helps trap this creamy sauce made with evaporated milk and half and half. Or use another short pasta such as cavatappi (corkscrews). For the finishing touch on this indulgent meal, top with a cheesy breadcrumb and bacon crumble.
TOPPING
4 strips bacon 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large shallot, finely chopped ½ cup grated aged Gouda or Parmesan 1 cup panko or other unseasoned dry white breadcrumbs Black pepper, to taste
1. Set the oven at 375 degrees. Have on hand a plate lined with paper towels and a rimmed baking sheet.
2. In a large skillet over medium heat, lay out the slices of bacon in a single layer. Cook for 7 minutes, turning halfway through frying, or until the bacon is brown and crispy. With tongs, transfer the bacon to the paper towels; cool.
3. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots, and cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes or until soft. Transfer to the paper towels; cool.
4. In a food processor, combine the bacon, shallots, Gouda or Parmesan, panko, and a generous sprinkle of pepper. Pulse until finely chopped.
5. Transfer the crumb mixture to the rimmed baking sheet, and spread it out evenly. Bake the crumbs for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring every 2 to 3 minutes, or until well toasted. Leave to cool. Break up any large chunks.
PASTA
Salt and pepper, to taste 12 ounces short pasta, such as lumache (shellbows) or cavatappi (corkscrews) 1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk 1 cup half and half 8 ounces smoked Gouda, shredded (2 cups) 1 pound young (plain) Gouda, shredded (4 cups)
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes, or according to the package directions, or until the pasta is tender but still has some bite. Dip a heatproof measuring cup into the water and reserve 1 cup. Drain the pasta into a colander; do not rinse.
2. Meanwhile, in a large heavy-based saucepan or flameproof casserole, heat the evaporated milk and half and half until the liquid begins to simmer. One handful at a time, stir in the smoked and young Gouda, waiting until each addition melts before adding more.
3. Add the pasta, 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water, and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Stir well. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.
4. Remove from the heat, cover the pan, and set aside for 10 minutes so the sauce thickens a little.
5. If the pasta has cooled too much while resting, reheat it gently, adding a bit more pasta water if needed.
6. Spoon into bowls and top with the crispy breadcrumb mixture. Karoline Boehm Goodnick

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