A new-and-improved Vienna waits for you

Boston Globe

28-03-2025

In the past 10 years or so, scores of buildings have been renovated, and pedestrian-only areas added, along with more green spaces, bike paths, and parks. (It's now considered one of the greenest cities in the world.) An influx of young families has added vibrancy to the city, spurring new boutiques, galleries, and restaurant openings. Major museums have opened or been renovated, including the newly expanded and modern Wien Museum, following a multiyear, 100-million-euro makeover, and the opening of the new House of Strauss, commemorating composer and musician Johann Strauss II.
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St. Stephen's Cathedral is framed by pretty gardens.
Pamela Wright
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We'd heard rumblings of Vienna's up-and-coming, new-and-improved status. The New York Times named it one of the top 52 destinations to visit in 2024. Then Austrian Airlines introduced its new nonstop service from Boston to Vienna, and we were committed.
We booked rooms at The Amauris, housed in an 1860 palace, along the famed Ringstrasse, Vienna's grand circular boulevard. Located between the Vienna State Opera and the Musikverein concert hall, and a short walk to most Old Town sights, this Relais & Chateau property oozes grace and elegance, with lots of marble and original paintings in gilded frames. Contemporary touches — splashes of eye-popping colors, lighting, and custom furniture — keep it from being stuffy or old-fashioned. Rooms are all about comfort, with luxurious linens, fresh flowers, and large modern baths. After the long, through-the-night flight, we were tempted to crawl into their four-poster beds. Instead, we headed to a nearby coffeehouse.
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Of course, you'll try weinerschnitzel and spaetzle while you're in Vienna.
Pamela Wright
Coffee culture
Mark Twain once said that 'the best coffee in Europe is Vienna coffee, compared to which all other coffee is fluid poverty.' We'd never argue with Twain, but the coffeehouse itself is the real gem in Vienna, grand places where locals gather, and fancy-dressed waiters serve coffee, pastries, and traditional Viennese dishes.
'It's in our blood,' says Heigerth of the coffeehouse experience. 'This is where we meet friends, read newspapers, and hang out for hours.'
We visited several during our stay. We shared apple strudel at Café Landtmann; established in 1873. It's one of the most famous coffeehouses in Vienna and was a favorite haunt of Sigmund Freud. Café Frauenhuber, housed in a former medieval bathhouse, is the oldest coffeehouse in Vienna, and where Beethoven and Mozart once played. Café Central, established in 1876 and housed in an Italianate mansion, is where famous leaders, poets, philosophers, and revolutionists gathered, including Freud, Stefan Zweig, Lenin, and Stalin. A little less fancy, but very authentic and a local favorite is Café Tirolerhof, where we sampled a delicious Sacher-torte (without waiting in the ridiculously long line at the Sacher Hotel, home to the original Sacher-torte.) We didn't spend hours at any of them, but we found them warm, friendly, and thoroughly enjoyable — great stops for a cup of mélange and a slice of marmorgugelhupf.
History lesson
Our first stop, after caffeinating, was the Wien Museum on the Karlsplatz. The recently reopened museum is a gem, spanning three floors, and filled with artworks, artifacts, models, dioramas, and more, totaling some 1,700 objects. The museum's permanent exhibition, 'Vienna. My History' spans three floors and several rooms, detailing the city's history from the Neolithic Age to the present. We found it bright, easy to navigate, entertaining, and informative. Particularly striking was the more than 80-foot-high central hall, housing large artifacts, including a 1.7-ton sculpture of a whale, an antique carriage, a stunning model of St. Stephen's Cathedral, and original sculptures from the Donnerbrunnen fountain.
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St. Stephen's Cathedral is one of the most famous landmarks in Vienna.
Pamela Wright
On our way back to the hotel, we passed by the famous Vienna State Opera House, a grand Renaissance Revival building on the Ringstrasse, considered one of the finest opera houses in the world. Unfortunately, guided tour tickets were sold out for the day, so we couldn't get inside. (The only way to see inside the Opera House is to book a tour or buy a ticket to a performance.)
That evening, we enjoyed sundowner drinks at Das Loft, a modern rooftop bar with sweeping views of the city, before heading to Praterwirt for dinner. When in Vienna, it's nearly mandatory that you have Wiener schnitzel, the traditional dish of thin, breaded and pan-fried veal cutlet. Praterwirt, known for its meat dishes and authentic Austrian cuisine, didn't disappoint. The cutlet was pounded ultra-thin, hanging over the plate, crispy and moist.
Music and leafy parks are found throughout Vienna.
Pamela Wright
Walking about
We spent our next days in Vienna walking around the city, enamored with its stunning architecture, parks, and lively streets and squares. We visited Albertina Square, anchored by the Hofburg Palace, the Imperial home of the Habsburg dynasty, and St. Stephen's Square, home to St. Stephen's Cathedral, the tallest church in Austria. The cathedral, originally constructed in the 12th century, has been rebuilt several times, and is now a magnificent blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architecture. We climbed the South Tower to the Watch Room (a grueling 363 steps) for lofty views, and later heard there was a lift to the top of the North Tower to a viewing platform. (We would have been fine with that!) We returned to the historic cathedral one evening for a concert featuring Antonio Vivaldi's The Four Seasons, performed by the Harmonia Ensemble Vienna.
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The Ringstrasse is lined with grand, historic buildings, including Burgtheater, City Hall, and Parliament. 'The tourist highway,' Heigerth said. 'But you have to see it.' So, we walked it and gawked.
There was water everywhere, with more than 50 historic fountains and 1,500 drinking fountains, fed by the spring fresh waters coming from the Alps. There were signs of change everywhere, also, with ongoing construction projects and lively new restaurants exemplifying the changing culinary scene. There are now a slew of ethnic eateries, contemporary wine bars, upscale restaurants serving multicourse meals, and new farm-to-table restaurants showcasing vegetarian dishes. We dined one evening at TIAN Bistro am Spittelberg, under the helm of chef Paul Ivic, the Michelin-starred chef at TIAN. The casual, artsy bistro focuses on seasonal vegetarian dishes, like beetroot and radicchio risotto and king oyster mushroom with kohlrabi and spicy muhammara.
Another evening, we dined at the elegant Glasswing restaurant, with white linen-topped tables, gilded framed paintings, and a finely executed, sophisticated menu, including dishes like lobster with hollandaise and caviar, sweetbreads with bacon and figs, and dry-aged duck with foie gras.
Boston connection
Before flying out on our final day, we took public transportation (easy to do) to the newly opened House of Strauss, where the waltz king once played. In 2025 Vienna will celebrate the 200th birthday of Johann Strauss II, with concerts, special events, exhibitions, and a dedicated website listing event highlights (
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Dr. Eduard Strauss, the great-grandnephew of Johann Strauss II, gave us a tour of the museum, which includes exhibits, a small concert hall, and café. There were artifacts and photos and interactive displays showcasing the Strauss family and life in Vienna during the 19th century. Did you know that a highlight of Johann Strauss II's career was the World's Peace Jubilee and International Music Festival of 1872? It took place in the Back Bay area of Boston, and lasted 18 days, honoring the end of the Franco-Prussian War. Coverage of the event reported that Strauss conducted an orchestra of nearly 1,000 musicians before some 50,000 spectators. Eduard Strauss told us that his dream is to someday open a House of Strauss in Boston. Until then, Vienna waits for you.
The Love Lock Bridge is one of several bridges crossing the Salzach River in Salzburg.
Pamela Wright
Train to Salzburg
'Doe, a deer, a female deer, ray, a drop of golden sun…' A group of South Korean men and women tourists were belting out the Do-Re-Mi song. They were poised on the steps descending into the elegant Mirabell Gardens in Salzburg.
Later, standing next to the Pegasus Fountain, our guide Trudy Rollo, dressed in a traditional Austrian-style dirndl, also broke into song. Strangers passing by joined in.
'sew, a needle pulling thread
la, a note to follow so
tea, a drink with jam and bread
That will bring us back to do oh oh oh'
There was no doubt we were in the Sound of Music City, where the famous
We took the train from Vienna to Salzburg, a pleasant three-hour or so trip, and spent two jam-packed days exploring this charming, picturesque city, with its Baroque towers, Medieval alleyways, historic squares, and alpine views.
We started at the baroque Mirabell Palace, where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart performed, crossed the River Salzach, and took photos in front of the house where Mozart was born.
You'll have pretty mountain views in Salzburg.
Pamela Wright
We could have spent hours trolling the narrow, cobblestone alleyways through Altstadt (Old Town), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We strolled the Getreidegasse, one of the main shopping streets in Old Town, with elaborately decorated cast-iron store signs, and poked around the skinny passageways, lined with shops and restaurants, working up a thirst. The Sternbrau beer garden in a nearly hidden courtyard in Old Town, was a welcome stop. We listened to the 35 bells of the Salzburg Carillon chime while we enjoyed bratwursts and local brews. Worth a mention: Salzburg has a rich beer tradition. The first commercial breweries in Salzburg were established at the end of the 14th century and one of them was the well-known Stiegl brewery. Today, there are 11 breweries in and around town, including Stiegl (still family-owned!) and the Augustiner Brau, the largest brewery in Austria, with 1,400 seats.
The tour of the DomQuartier, the former center and residences of the prince archbishops, including a large museum with some 2,000 exhibits, galleries, a terrace connecting to the Cathedral with fine views of Old Town, and the Benedictine monastery of St. Peter, gave us an interesting and comprehensive lesson in the history of Salzburg. So did a visit to the massive Hohensalzburg Fortress, the largest fully preserved castle in Central Europe, with exhibits, artifacts, and unrivaled views.
On our last afternoon, we took the local bus to the 1612 Hellbrunn Castle, with beautiful gardens and the unusual, not-to-be-missed Trick Fountains, a delightful, astounding land of shooting water, grottos, fountains, and more. They were as magical as Salzburg itself. For more information, visit
If you go . . .
Austrian Airlines offers nonstop flights from Boston to Vienna, six times a week, year-round. The airline offers a premium economy class with much comfier seating, extra space, and better food that makes the overnight, across-the-pond journey easier, for much less money than a bump to first class.
For tourist information on Vienna, visit
Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at