Roksanda channels sculptor Phyllida Barlow at London fashion week show
Where can you find the author Daphne du Maurier and the sculptor Phyllida Barlow, along with the actor Tippi Hedren and the costume designer Edith Head? Only at London fashion week.
All four women were muses for designers on the third day of catwalks. Barlow's uncompromising art was the inspiration at Roksanda, where vast ballgowns in bright felt wobbled perilously on the 16th floor of an empty brutalist office block, channeling the audacious spirit of Barlow's teetering towers of fabric, rope, chicken wire or papier mache.
The challenging spirit of the late Barlow's toppling piles threatened to overwhelm those galleries brave enough to house them. Roksanda echoed this by placing fabrics upside down. Raffia was upended, with sea urchin tendrils spiking skyward rather than trailing to the ground. A coat, simple wool from the front, revealed upon turning a back view of fake fox fur reversed so that the tufts reached upwards. Sequins were the size of Pringles. The effect was of topsy-turvy drama, as if the models might at any moment be set off balance by their outfits and capsize.
Barlow made art out of old cardboard boxes and waste fabric, revisiting memories of growing up in London's bomb-damaged East End. 'I love the way she created worlds out of discarded material,' said Roksanda Ilinčić before her show. 'And I wanted to challenge myself in the same way.' The final pieces were made from pieces of felt left over from previous collections, vivid art-room remnants with angular cut-outs where sleeves and collars had once been.
Sign up to Fashion Statement
Style, with substance: what's really trending this week, a roundup of the best fashion journalism and your wardrobe dilemmas solved
after newsletter promotion
Emilia Wickstead was thinking about the women of Hitchcock's disquieting masterpiece The Birds. Hedren in her lovebird-green suit was on the moodboard, along with Head and Du Maurier, upon whose story the film was based. 'When you look at what they wore, it feels as if the style of the author and the costume designer both filter into what Hedren wears on screen,' Wickstead said before her show. 'I actually find the film really beautiful. It's a story about love and acceptance and family.' She updated Hedren's suit in chartreuse or charcoal, with trousers instead of a dress, worn with modern-urban chunky boots and no makeup. 'It is interesting that she is wearing that same suit for three days over the story of the film, which is unusual on screen. And I'm all about clothes you can wear for different occasions.'
The models wore their hair tightly coiled into chignons, and conical bras to give them 'that pointy breast that is very of its time', said Wickstead. The unsettling mood of the film rippled through the show: an immaculately tailored double-breasted jacket had an uneven number of buttons, setting it subtly off-kilter.
The energy of both shows was upbeat, but both designers reported feeling that London fashion week is going through a rough patch. 'The consensus is that designers are leaving London, and that fewer from the international industry are coming' said Wickstead. 'But for the size of my brand, it still makes sense for me to show in London.' She noted that fewer international models had travelled to London this season, making casting problematic for those still on the schedule.
'It's tough out there,' said Ilinčić. 'But we have to keep going. One positive about London is that we have such a strong creative community. This has always been a hard place to survive, so we support each other. And I really believe fashion still needs shows, because it's so important not to lose the magic.'
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Time Out
4 days ago
- Time Out
Inside the retro romance of Jay and Ple Spencer
Picture this, dusky pink walls, curving bronze shelves, rattan panels and a playlist that swings between disco and dreamy lounge jazz. We're perched on a velvet banquette at Dusit Thani's new 1970 Bar, and it genuinely feels like we've stepped back into the golden age of glamour. It's here, amid cocktails and unrivalled city views, that we meet Jay and Jareyadee 'Ple' Spencer, founders of Woof Pack Projects, long-time creative forces in Bangkok, and one of the city's most quietly iconic couples. 'I think the 1970s were a time of beautifully decorated spaces,' Jay says, sipping a dirty martini. 'This bar feels like a private penthouse imagined by someone with great taste. André Fu nailed it – it's intimate, nice and private.' Ple agrees, though her eye goes straight to the skyline. 'I love the view,' she smiles. 'You're surrounded by towers in the city, and suddenly there's green. It feels calm. Dusit has always had this iconic presence – it's part of the neighbourhood. Coming here feels like visiting a friend's apartment: it's cosy, it's comforting.' If the pair were actually living in the '70s? 'I'd be in the same field, just different aesthetics,' Jay muses. 'I've always been surrounded by art and design, so I'd still be doing this – maybe just trading skinny jeans for bell bottoms.' Ple lights up. 'I'd be running a production house,' she says without missing a beat. 'I actually wanted to be an architect, then switched to advertising. I was obsessed with the idea of having a full-service creative company. My dad told me it'd be expensive. I said I didn't care – I just wanted to do it.' A film of their own: cult classics, and a little madness The vibe of 1970 Bar has them dreaming of film scenes, too. 'Pulp Fiction,' Ple declares, 'is my all-time favourite. The mood, the tone, the soundtrack… and Quentin Tarantino is delightfully mad in every way. The way Uma Thurman and John Travolta dance at Jack Rabbit Slim's? Iconic. You have to be that intense to be iconic.' Jay chuckles. 'Mine 'would probably be a horror film. Alfred Hitchcock's Psycho, The Birds, something offbeat and a little disturbing.' The everyday and the endless Despite the cinematic style and public-facing lives, Jay and Ple are remarkably down-to-earth. They met while working at TCDC and now juggle running Woof Pack Projects, raising two young kids, and still somehow making time for themselves, and each other. 'We're similar in some ways and completely different in others,' Jay says. 'When one of us is down, the other steps up. That's why it works. We understand each other. A relationship teaches you patience, and awareness. And having kids? That changes everything – it's a constant journey.' He laughs, glancing at Ple. 'Whenever there's a problem, she runs away.' 'Are you mad? That's nonsense,' Ple shoots back with a grin. 'She legs it and leaves me behind,' Jay teases. Then, more seriously, he adds, 'We just carry different kinds of stress. We have different ways of working, different levels of patience, and ways of dealing with things.' Ple nods. 'There's no filter when you've been together this long. We're each other's closest person, so we constantly have to adjust. I'm very honest and clear. I think that helps. But it's also about patience, supporting each other and knowing when to step back.' When things get hectic – exhibitions, filming, school runs – they still make space for time together. 'Even if we're just sitting side by side, not talking,' Ple says, 'we need those moments. It doesn't have to be romantic, just real.' Jay adds, 'We'll do date nights, travel together if we can. You always have to make time. Even just three to four hours to eat, sleep, be with each other, that's what keeps things going.' As for who's the more restless one? 'Jay's the 'let's do one more thing' type,' Ple grins. 'He never stops.' Jay laughs. 'I've never said 'let's take a break' in my life.' Ple chimes in, 'We were both like that before, but these days – with work, kids, dogs – I'm more likely to be the one saying, 'Let's pause.'' Where it all comes together Despite the intensity, they both light up when talking about Woof Pack Projects. Tucked just off Saladaeng, it's become a landmark for creative events, exhibitions, and formerly independent cinema. Now, it also houses the Time Out Thailand office. But more than that – it's theirs. 'Saladaeng is where we started our journey,' says Jay. 'After our first project in Sukhumvit, we moved to Woof Pack. We were one of the first in this area. It holds a special place in our lives.' Ple adds, 'It's our story from day one. We've done so many shows there, and people associate the space with us. We've helped shape the creative neighbourhood around it and we're still going.' Even with all the appearances at glittering events, they're selective about their social calendar. 'The line between work and life is blurry,' Jay admits. 'You don't always stay the whole night. Balance is key.' And what kind of legacy do they hope to leave for their kids? Jay's answer is simple, 'That we were present. We weren't just busy with work – we showed up for them, made time for them. That's what I want them to remember.' Ple hopes they'll understand something deeper. 'My dad always said, 'The value of a person is in their work.' I want the kids to see that. Both Jay and I give 100 percent to what we do. It's in our DNA.' As the night winds down and the lights at 1970 Bar dim a little, you get the sense that Jay and Ple don't just live creatively – they live deliberately. In a city that's always rushing forward, they've built a life filled with care, connection and just enough retro sparkle to keep things fun. And yes, Ple was right. Jay did order the dirty martini. She stuck with a glass of red wine. Some things never change. Photographer: STYLEdeJATE @styledejate Art Director: PK Vanasirikul @peeekks Senior designer: Methita Trakulpoonsub @methitaa Project manager: Sirinart Panyasricharoen @tibabit Writer: Sarunrat Ardpruksa @toeysarunrat Video: Phithiphon Mueadthaisong @temptm_ Video Editor: Weerawich Thitipatwarrachai @102_14b Photos: STYLEdeJATE @styledejate Assistant photographer: @Fernnrr.279 Stylist: Mathimon Intharasuwan @chubbyz_gt Hair stylist: Jarukit Chathong @reduce_frizz Makeup artist: Kantapong Chansamlee @katangiswho @whoiskatang Lighting: Stoppie Pumipat Concept: @laurieosborne
Daily Mirror
5 days ago
- Daily Mirror
Actor thrown off Jet2 flight in 'row over Pringles' hits back after viral TikTok
Mustafa Denizkan, otherwise known as Elunico Hazaver, claims he was unfairly taken off flight LS721 in a spat over some Pringles but denied being 'aggressive, drunk and dangerous' on the flight An actor who was thrown off a Jet2 flight has spoken out to 'set the record straight', blasting reports that he was 'aggressive, drunk and dangerous' on the flight as incorrect. Mustafa Denizkan, otherwise known as Elunico Hazaver, claims he was unfairly taken off flight LS721 in a spat over some Pringles. The row took place on board the plane, which left Edinburgh Airport at around 3pm on May 10, heading for Larnaca in Cyprus, before it was diverted to Thessaloniki in Greece. Denizkan claims he was taken off the flight after an 'argument between himself, a passenger and the cabin crew'. But he said that reports of him being 'aggressive, drunk and dangerous' were false. The actor is known for starring in Turkish drama Gönül İşleri, and 2002 short film Yaprak, Edinburgh Live reports. Taking to Instagram to 'clarify', Denizkan said: "I am currently on medication for a number of medical conditions. "When the cabin crew started serving the passengers, I waited until the cabin crew trolley was in my row. When the member of the cabin crew came in the row I was, I waited until she asked me what I wanted to order and she continued pushing the trolley through the back without asking me anything. "After 10 minutes I pressed the button. A member of the cabin crew came and asked me what I wanted. "She was a bit rude. I told her I wanted water and Pringles. She told me to wait for my turn. I said okay. I waited for another 10 minutes and pressed the button again. The same person came and told me to wait again. I waited for another 10 minutes and pressed the button again." Denizkan claims he was asked to stop pushing the button. He then admitted raising his voice to the cabin crew, and was allegedly told he wouldn't be served. He continued: "Another passenger got involved and started to shout at me. The guy who shouted at me grabbed my necklaces and ripped them off and I tried to defend myself by pushing him away. That's all! "I did not punch anyone, I was not drunk. I did not abuse anyone." Another passenger uploaded footage to TikTok of the incident, where it has received more than 90,000 views to date. The clip, which was posted by @jj_bowe, said: "Jet2holidays: Where fists fly before the plane does." The user accompanied the post by saying: "Shoutout to the guy who thought assaulting crew mid-air was a vibe - thanks for the five hour delay and the unexpected Greek mini-break, legend."
Daily Record
5 days ago
- Daily Record
Actor kicked off Edinburgh Jet2 flight and given lifetime ban over 'Pringles row'
The actor says he was "trying to defend himself" after claims he was "aggressive and drunk". An actor has hit out at Jet2 after being thrown off an Edinburgh flight and issued with a lifetime ban following a " row over Pringles". Mustafa Denizkan, also known as Elunico Hazaver, claims he was unfairly taken off flight LS721. The aircraft left Edinburgh Airport for Larnaca in Cyprus on May 10 at around 3pm, before it was diverted to Thessaloniki in Greece. Denizkan claims he was taken off the flight after an "argument between himself, a passenger and the cabin crew". However, he says that reports of him being "aggressive, drunk and dangerous" are incorrect, reports Edinburgh Live. The actor is known for starring in Turkish drama Gönül İşleri, and 2002 short film Yaprak. Taking to Instagram to "clarify", Denizkan said: "I am currently on medication for a number of medical conditions. "When the cabin crew started serving the passengers, I waited until the cabin crew trolley was in my row. When the member of the cabin crew came in the row I was, I waited until she asked me what I wanted to order and she continued pushing the trolley through the back without asking me anything. "After 10 minutes I pressed the button. A member of the cabin crew came and asked me what I wanted. "She was a bit rude. I told her I wanted water and Pringles. She told me to wait for my turn. I said okay. I waited for another 10 minutes and pressed the button again. The same person came and told me to wait again. I waited for another 10 minutes and pressed the button again." Denizkan claims he was asked to stop pushing the button. He then admitted raising his voice to the cabin crew, and was allegedly told he wouldn't be served. He continued: "Another passenger got involved and started to shout at me. The guy who shouted at me grabbed my necklaces and ripped them off and I tried to defend myself by pushing him away. That's all! "I did not punch anyone, I was not drunk. I did not abuse anyone." At the time of the incident, another passenger uploaded footage to TikTok of the incident. The clip, which was posted by @jj_bowe, said: "Jet2holidays: Where fists fly before the plane does." She accompanied the post by saying: "Shoutout to the guy who thought assaulting crew mid-air was a vibe - thanks for the five hour delay and the unexpected Greek mini-break, legend." Jet2 has been approached for comment. Join the Daily Record WhatsApp community! Get the latest news sent straight to your messages by joining our WhatsApp community today. You'll receive daily updates on breaking news as well as the top headlines across Scotland. No one will be able to see who is signed up and no one can send messages except the Daily Record team. All you have to do is click here if you're on mobile, select 'Join Community' and you're in! If you're on a desktop, simply scan the QR code above with your phone and click 'Join Community'. We also treat our community members to special offers, promotions, and adverts from us and our partners. If you don't like our community, you can check out any time you like. To leave our community click on the name at the top of your screen and choose 'exit group'.
