Whether he's serving partiers, little kids, or busy downtowners, Ernie Campbell has an appetite for more

Boston Globe

22-04-2025

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Now, Campbell splits his time between Boston and Brockton; the second location of Jamaica Mi Hungry opened earlier this month. He chatted about his early days in Jamaica, his favorite way to relax in the kitchen, and the one condiment that gives him a thrill.
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Chef Ernie Campbell poses in the kitchen.
Tell me a little bit about what sparked your love for food. Did you cook growing up?
Yes. Growing up in Jamaica, I would go fishing. There's a black fish, like tilapia. We'd dig the worms out of the ground, put in the hook, and go fishing, then take it home and cook for the family.
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It was me and my mom. I have a sister who has kids. I was the breadwinner in the house, so I had to go out and hustle. I'd be excited to cook, and I'd share with the neighborhood. I was able to see that this was a thing that was in me; that I could turn that into a business.
Tell me about your first job.
My first professional job was after school. I went to an internship at a hotel called Mariners. I was dishwashing; I was in the kitchen; I worked with a lot of chefs from all over the world.
I went back to Montego Bay, working at a supermarket, packing the shelves. I learned about food — it was tough. I called the hotel back where I had the internship. The owner said, 'Come on down!'
Everything changed from there. I became the chef there in a year. Next, I was cooking at all-inclusive hotels along the beach in Jamaica. I was a big chef for spring breakers. I would feed 3,000 spring breakers for six weeks. That was a big deal for me.
What brought you to the United States?
That's a good question! I also was a tour bus driver, from the airport, back to the hotel, sightseeing, shopping, things like that. I met my wife on the bus. She brought me here, and I started working at my first job at the Bayside Expo Center — on the lawn, doing burgers, chicken fingers, things like that. They thought I was so fast and natural.
I'm like: 'This is nothing, because I'm not cooking. I'm putting cheese on burgers. I'm not doing spices and seasonings.' It wasn't a challenge at all. They were looking at me like: 'Man, who's this guy?'
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What was your impression of Boston, coming from Jamaica?
It was a culture shock, but I really was looking forward to the change in my life and a faster pace. I had the energy to try something new and different. I did come in the wintertime, and I looked at the trees — there were no leaves on them! Why were there so many dead trees around here? It was just cold. If you see a tree like that in Jamaica, it's not coming back.
You also went to Belmont Day for a little while, right?
That was great. I was very nervous leaving the Seaport Hotel to take that job. When I was told about the job, it was an opportunity for my son to be in that school as well. He was going to start the fourth grade, so I decided: 'Hey, I'll do it for my son.'
It was the greatest move I made. I was driving him to school every day until he graduated, and it was fun. That's what put me in the food truck business; I had so much time and space for myself in the summertime. And the parents there supported me very well. I did events for teachers, parents, things like that. I took out my 401(k), and got my first food truck.
Tell me something: Were the kids picky or adventurous?
Those kids were the best clients I ever had. I would have a line of parents coming in every morning to talk to me and say thank you. And it felt really good. They said, 'I couldn't get my son to eat green beans! When he comes home, he says, 'Chef makes the best green beans!' Everything I make for my kids, it's: 'Oh, that's not how Chef Campbell does it.''
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The parents were so grateful, sending their kids to school and knowing that they're going to eat well, because every kid was eating when I was there. Every kid — I have pictures of everybody with all their allergies, so I could put their face to them. They came straight to me for their food. Some don't eat nuts, some don't eat peanuts, some don't eat cheese, some don't eat flour. Just name it all: I was protecting all of it.
Tell me a little bit about the food downtown. Is it the same menu? Anything a little bit different?
It's the same menu that everybody knows. The reason I chose downtown was because, in the first place, with the truck, I knew I wanted to take my food to a different client base, not in the neighborhood that I live in.
I wanted to do something a little different. Putting the food truck in the city was better. It was cheaper than having a restaurant, because I didn't have money to pay $30,000 a month for rent downtown. It's hard; you're trying to sell a product that they're not used to. Taking the truck out, I saw the support that I was getting. That's what gave me the confidence to say, 'I can do this. People are really loving it.'
What's your favorite dish?
Well, to tell the truth, I really love to cook, and I like to challenge myself in the kitchen. It's not about what's my favorite dish to cook anymore so much as: 'How many people can I cook for?' If a hospital calls and says, 'Hey, we need 2,000 plates!' — those are the kinds of challenges I face now.
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But I really enjoy being in the kitchen. No matter what I'm going through, I get in the kitchen, and all of my problems are gone.
Do you listen to music while you cook? What's your vibe when you're in the kitchen?
It's all focus. It's all silence: me and the knife, the sound, the food, the taste, the flavor, the smell. I love driving, too. When I'm driving, I don't listen to music, either. I just want to hear the wind, the breeze, and the car.
Where do you eat when you're not working?
I love sushi: Basho, in the Fenway area. Last week, I did go to Zuma, at The Four Seasons. That was amazing. The sushi was great; the best sushi ever.
What about takeout? What do you do if you just want to grab something quick?
I never order food for takeout. I never order food and have it delivered. I might taste pizza or chicken wings from Wingstop or something. But I've never called on the phone and had somebody deliver food to me.
You prefer to make food at home?
Yes. I like my fresh pasta with salmon and marinara sauce. It's very simple.
Is there any food that you just cannot stand?
I wouldn't say that, no. I explore a lot of food, but I explore good food. Everywhere I go, I Google 'Jamaican restaurant,' and I'll find it. I'll try their oxtail; I'll do a little test for everything. I'll just go there and spend my money to support them.
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What type of food do you wish Boston had more of? What are we missing?
We were missing the Caribbean flavor downtown for sure, even the Haitian patties and stuff. I'm trying to bring that downtown — we need that diversity of food. From African cuisine to Haitian cuisine, I just want to be that person. I'm just going to send that message: 'You can do it.'
One things that really hit me and has stuck with me until today: When I first took my food truck out, I think it was at Tufts University or at UConn. I don't know where I was, but it was one of my first events at a school. And one of the college kids was Black. He first looked at me and was like, 'Oh my God! Jamaica Mi Hungry!'
They feel they cannot do something; they cannot be something; they cannot go somewhere; they cannot do what they really want to do. I'm kind of just different, the opposite of that. I like to be out there, loud and proud, being myself.
Is it busy downtown, or are people still remote or working hybrid?
Well, since I opened, I've been doing a hundred customers for lunch downtown. It's great. Friday is slower; maybe Monday. But, during the week, it's 100 customers, so it feels good, and I know it's going to get better. I'm still hoping to do maybe 200 or 300 for lunch. I'm preparing myself for that.
What would you choose as your last meal on Earth?
Wow. That's funny. I mean, I love salmon. I'm a seafood guy. I love my seafood. But sushi is my favorite food, though — spicy tuna rolls, soy sauce, wasabi, ginger. Sometimes I take a little hit of wasabi that's like: Ooh! It just feels nice.
Interview was edited and condensed.
Kara Baskin can be reached at