How to do Japan better than the rest, according to an expert
Day 9 & 10, Osaka
Japan's second city
Witness the monks' pre-sunrise prayers, complete with drumbeats, chanting and incense burning before a gold altar. After breakfast, head back down to earth on the cable car – and travel by train to Osaka.
Heaven for foodies, Japan's second-biggest city is famed for its down-to-earth atmosphere and boisterous nightlife. It's also the setting for Osaka Expo 2025, running from April 13 to October 13. Head to Yumeshina on Osaka Bay to explore a string of international pavilions wrapped in a giant wooden ring designed by architect Sou Fujimoto (be sure to book tickets in advance).
Check into the Four Seasons Osaka for a cloud-brushing taste of luxury; or Zentis Osaka for a less-pricey design hotel experience.
Cookery, culture and karaoke
Learn how to make Osakan street food – from okonomiyaki pancakes to udon noodles – at an Eat Osaka cookery class run by local mothers.
Nakanoshima is also worth exploring – home to a growing hub of museums and culture spots. Take your pick from the Nakanoshima Museum of Art, the Museum of Oriental Ceramics and the Nakanoshima Children's Book Forest, a library designed by legendary Osakan architect Tadao Ando. In the evening, drink beer with locals in an izakaya-style pub, before letting off steam at karaoke.
Day 11, 12 & 13, Naoshima
Island life
Next, head out to sea. Take two trains to Uno port in Kagawa prefecture, and then a private boat to Naoshima. A contemporary art mecca, this small fishing island is a textbook template of how to revitalise an ageing rural community through art. This year, the acclaimed (and ever-growing) Setouchi Triennale returns, a 100-day contemporary art festival spanning 17 islands and coastal areas, which started on April 18 (setouchi-artfest.jp).
The best place to stay is Benesse House a sleek minimal concrete space by the architect Tadao Ando. Check in for two nights before exploring the subterranean Chichu museum, with its treasured Monet Water Lilies, art installations on local wooden houses, and the abstract rock installations in the Lee Ufan Museum.
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Remote beaches and rural creativity
Hop on a local ferry to neighbouring island Teshima. Here, hire an electric bicycle at the port and cycle across the hilly rural landscape, soaking up the creative atmosphere – from the minimal white Teshima Art Museum, inspired by a drop of water, to Christian Boltanski's installation on a remote beach where visitors can record their own heartbeat. Return to Naoshima and finish up with a muscle-warming soak at I Love Yu, a kitsch bathhouse in Miyanoura Port.
Art experiences
Take a ferry back to Takamatsu Port. Next stop: Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum. It was in the tiny village of Mure that the sculptor built his home and studio, both painstakingly preserved – in a beautiful natural setting (an advance appointment is essential). Take a 20-minute train ride to Furutakamatsu Minami and a 10-minute taxi, before being escorted through the intimately scattered abstract artworks.
Head to Takamatsu airport and fly to Tokyo Haneda. For a final touch of luxury, check into the Palace Hotel, which fuses contemporary comforts and quality design with legendary hospitality, in a prime location overlooking the Imperial Palace moat.
Day 14, Tokyo - Final farewell
Request a table on the terrace for your final breakfast (looking out for passing swans). If you have time, enjoy some last-minute shopping – from the boutiques and flagships of Omotesando to the department stores of Ginza.
The details
When to go
Autumn is perhaps the best time of the year to visit, with mild weather, blue skies and vivid landscapes of fiery-leafed trees. From late December and early January, temperatures drop – making it a good time to head to a northern ski resort or south for some Okinawan winter sunshine. Spring brings the iconic cherry blossom season (and lots of crowds). Golden Week around May is best avoided as it's so busy. July and August are uncomfortably hot and humid in Tokyo and Kyoto – making it a good time to escape to the cooler green mountains of northern Japan.
Tour
Among the best independent Japan travel specialists is InsideJapan (insidejapantours.com/au), with its vast network of contacts and expertise for all budgets. It offers a 14-day Japan Unmasked small group tour costing $7130pp (excluding flights). The trip passes through Tokyo, Nagano, Matsumoto, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Kurashiki, with the price including 13 nights accommodation, transport, some private guiding and experiences such as a walking tour through Gion (geisha district) and a cycling tour of the Kibi Plain.
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Ultimate luxury
At the more luxury end of the spectrum, Black Tomato (blacktomato.com) can curate a high-end bespoke itinerary from $124,000 for a group of four people (excluding flights), including top accommodation (including Benesse House on Naoshima and Beniya Mukayu), a string of curated experiences and private guiding.
On a budget
If your short on time and money, Intrepid Travel has a nine-day 'Japan Express' tour taking in Tokyo, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Osaka by bullet train, starting from $2556 per person excluding flights.
Insider tips
If you're travelling independently and taking more than one bullet train trip, it's worth investing in a Japan Rail Pass, purchasing it ahead of arrival, so you can travel anywhere on the JR network.
If you have large suitcases or ski equipment, there is a nationwide service which can deliver your luggage ahead of you – to hotels and airports, for example – typically arriving a day after sending. It can be organised by most hotels or at 7-Eleven convenience stores. Otherwise, it's worth bearing in mind that on bullet trains, you have to book space on board for large luggage.
Pick up a bento box to savour while on board bullet trains: most train stations offer a wide range of bento boxes, often showcasing regional ingredients.
Cash is still used far more widely than in many other destinations; for ATMs that are compatible with international bank cards, head to any 7-Eleven or post office.
Don't open or close taxi doors; the white-gloved driver may be a bit upset (they pride themselves on operating the doors). And there is no tipping culture.
Bring nice socks, ideally without holes, as you will be slipping your shoes on and off repeatedly, particularly in temples and ryokan inns.
In winter, especially if it's chilly in rural spots such as Mount Koya, pick up some 'kairo' heat pads in the local convenience store to warm you up.
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Sydney Morning Herald
04-05-2025
- Sydney Morning Herald
Ultimate Japan travel guide: All the best highlights and things to do over two weeks
, register or subscribe to save articles for later. Add articles to your saved list and come back to them any time. Cloud-brushing skyscrapers, flashing neon and seas of salarymen. The rhythmic whisk of matcha in the stillness of a tatami mat tea room. The dancing hands of a sushi chef slicing sashimi on a cypress wood counter. Decadent quantities of world-class powder snow. Steam rising from a hot spring onsen bath. And the list goes on. Japan has long been a timeless haven of colourfully unique experiences. It's home to a spectrum of only-in-Japan moments, balancing the rich layers of its deep cultural heritage with a futuristic modern edge – whether enjoying dinner in a robot restaurant in Tokyo or slipping shoes off at the threshold of a centuries-old Zen temple. Japan's diversity is mirrored in its geography. The landscape of the scattered archipelago – a narrow vertical stretch of volcanic islands – ranges from the snow-flecked ski resorts of northernmost Hokkaido to the subtropical island gems of southern Okinawa. And it's never been more popular. Tourism is booming – as is well documented, along with a growing reports of overtourism. This, however, should not deter visitors – instead, it should inspire them to get creative and explore the many quieter, less obvious spots. It's still possible to find peaceful corners to explore even as Japan gains popularity with tourists. Credit: Getty Images For many, one timeless draw is Japan's legendary food (Tokyo alone has 170 Michelin-starred restaurants – the highest number in the world). Culinary experiences vary wildly from shiny skyscraper eateries to tiny hidden sushi counters – plus countless local restaurants specialising in a cornucopia of treats such as soba noodles, tempura, ramen, yakitori (skewered chicken) and tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlets). For others, the appeal is rooted in its aesthetics – from the modern minimalism of architect Tadao Ando's concrete buildings, to the wabi-sabi philosophy of transience and imperfection experienced in the stillness of tea rooms and Zen gardens. It was a mix of all the above (plus a sprinkling of romantic notions relating to cherry blossoms) that prompted me to swap my native London for Japan 17 years ago. After nearly two decades of living here (now based in the old kimono district of Kyoto), there is still so much more to see and learn. My itinerary does not attempt to cover everything, a near-impossible feat in two weeks. It does, however, aim to offer a curated taste of the cultural richness and diversity Japan has to offer, with the goal of creating memories that linger long after flying home – starting with Tokyo. Days 1, 2 & 3, Tokyo Find your feet in the city Pooliside at Trunk(Hotel) Yoyogi Park. The first day of your trip will be occupied by an overnight flight from London to Tokyo. On arrival, after checking in at Trunk(Hotel) Cat Street, wander around Harajuku, the street fashion mecca. Soak up the rainbow-bright crowds of teenagers strolling down Takeshita Dori. Then, get a glimpse of the other side of Japan: just behind Harajuku station, roam through a wide forested path to the serene sanctuary of Meiji Jingu shrine. Next, head past the fashion flagships of tree-lined Omotesando. Pick up some Issey Miyake shopping at the northern end of Omotesando, before exploring time-capsule traditional treasures (plus the serene gardens) at the Kengo Kuma-designed Nezu Museum. Senso-ji temple complex is Tokyo's oldest. Credit: iStock Skip the city crowds If jetlag is kicking in, make the most of rising early and try to skip the crowds at Sensoji – Japan's oldest temple – wandering along its lively market walkway, in Asakusa, an atmospheric old district in eastern Tokyo. Not far away is Ueno Koen, one of the city's oldest public parks, filled with national museums, shrines, a lotus pond and quality people-watching. For a low-key detour, head a little farther east to Yanaka, one of the few neighbourhoods to have survived wartime bombing – resulting in a rare time-warp atmosphere. Stroll through its cherry-tree-filled cemetery and sip coffee in old-school cafés. Don't miss Scai the Bathhouse, one of Tokyo's best independent contemporary galleries, housed, as its name suggests, in an old sento bathhouse. Later, for dinner, head to Kyubey in Ginza for quality sushi – asking for a counter seat to watch the master chefs at work. Day 4, Kanazawa Take the bullet train It's a three-hour ride from Hokuriku to Kanazawa on the Shinkansen Line. Credit: iStock Take a bullet train to the crafts-rich Hokuriku region, which hugs the Sea of Japan coastline, west of Tokyo – and in around three hours, arrive at Kanazawa. This mountain-wrapped city is a historic gem in Ishikawa prefecture, famed for its wooden architecture and quality craftsmanship. Check into the sleekly comfortable (and convenient) Hyatt Centric Kanazawa near the station, before exploring highlights, such as the historic lanes of the Higashi Chaya district and Kenroku-en, one of Japan's top-three traditional gardens. Don't miss the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, with world-class exhibitions housed within clean, minimal lines of curved concrete and glass designed by architects Sanaa. Day 5, Kaga Onsen Recharge in an onsen Yamashiro Onsen in the 1300-year-old hot spring resort town of Kaga Onsen. Credit: Getty Images This is often when jetlag fatigue kicks in: take a break from exploring and jump on a 45-minute train to Kaga Onsen (about halfway between Kanazawa and Kyoto), home to a hub of generations-old onsen ryokan inns. One stand-out gem is Beniya Mukayu – an innovative family-run inn that exudes a sense of stillness and beauty – through its seamless blend of ryokan heritage, intuitive omotenashi hospitality, tea culture and delicious cuisine mixed with contemporary design and art installations alongside a serene green garden. Not to forget its onsen bathing: recharge with addictively restorative soaks in its mineral-rich hot spring baths. Stay the night to wake feeling refreshed. Day 6 & 7 Kyoto The ancient city Kyoto's atmospheric Ponto-cho district at night. Credit: iStock It may be famously busy, but a trip to Japan is still incomplete without a visit to the ancient city and time-capsule of traditional culture: Kyoto. Take a Thunderbird train from Kaga Onsen to Kyoto Station (around one hour 45 minutes). Despite the furore over tourist volumes, visitors tend to stick to the same places – making certain spots intensely busy, while others are refreshingly peaceful. It's worth checking out different neighbourhoods and smaller temples for a taste of local Kyoto. Staying at Aman Kyoto is a good example of this: it's located in the rural north-eastern reaches of the city, with countless local makers, temples, shrines on its doorstep (accessible via hotel bicycles). For those who prefer to be in the heart of the city, the Shinmonzen, a beautiful art-packed Tadao Ando-designed hotel, is located in geisha district Gion, which is bracingly busy – yet this hotel sits on one of the quieter streets, overlooking a serene river, making it the perfect spot to pause and recharge. Aman Kyoto's west-facing Kaede room. See the sights A day of exploring. Rise early (to avoid the crowds) if visiting popular spots such as the Philosopher's Path, the stunning hilltop Kiyomizu-dera temple and Nijo Castle. The best way to enjoy the grid-lined lanes of Kyoto is on two wheels: hire a bicycle (Kyoto Eco Trip can deliver them to your hotel). Explore the historic green gardens at Gosho – the Imperial Palace Park – and temples which tend to be a bit quieter, such as Yoshimine-dera and Daitoku-ji. At the end of the day, treat yourself to a poetically crafted Kyoto dinner in a serene traditional setting, at the Michelin-star-worthy Kikunoi Honten. Day 8, Koya San The sacred mountain Sacred Buddhist site Okunoin cemetery at Mount Koya. Credit: iStock Another early start to bid Kyoto sayonara and embark for Mount Koya, one of the nation's most sacred mountains, in Wakayama prefecture. After a string of trains, take a cable car to reach the mountaintop town. Upon arrival, check into Fudo-in, one of countless local temples that take in guests. Then stroll among the exquisite temple architecture before viewing the tombstones deep in the forest at Okunoin, Japan's biggest cemetery. Back at the temple, tuck into a vegetarian Buddhist dinner.
ABC News
02-05-2025
- ABC News
Osaka's green spaces should inspire Australia's urban renewal plans
There's something very charming about a pram jam: a jangle of buggies, yawning wide without their usual wiggly passengers, neatly lined up at the edge of the park and inviting a curious question — so, where did all the babies go? Over there! A convention of kids stretching along the edge of a new, green park, sitting neatly on blankets, nibbling decorously on the exquisite little snack boxes their mothers have made them as they all chat in the half-light of a cloudy Osaka morning. Does anyone picnic as elegantly as a Japanese child? I stumbled on this scene on a recent trip as I went in search of what had been described to me as a near perfect example of an urban green development in one of the most green-starved cities in the world. (Yes, I like to look at infrastructure while I'm on holidays. I blame my engineer father, and the summer holidays spent visiting hydroelectric plants.) There's something very charming about a jangle of buggies neatly lined up at the edge of the park. ( ABC News: Virginia Trioli ) The sprawling metropolis of Osaka, which has one of those obscure "sister city" relationships with my city of Melbourne, partially opened a large urban park late last year near the busy centre, which takes in nine hectares divided by a busy road, with a curving elevated pedestrian bridge uniting the two parts of the park. Loading Instagram content There are water features, and grassed open spaces, cherry blossom trees of course, amphitheatre seating and an exhibition space designed by one of the greatest living architects, Japan's Tadao Ando. The second part of The Grand Green Osaka and Umekita Park opens next year. It is a very beautiful space. You come upon it with relief as you escape the grey intensity of the city's largest rail station, and it opens up for you as a wandering path through lovely trees and around a calm open green that faces onto a curved covered event space. Walking into it, the impulse to sit and simply gaze on the green was overwhelming: like everyone else, we grabbed a (bad, sorry) coffee, found little chairs and simply sat and breathed. Culture is the canary in the coalmine: the designers, artists and writers always get there first, so it makes sense that the magazine Time Out opened a new iteration of its celebrated city markets underground at the Grand Green, featuring the best of Japanese food at a series of elegantly designed cafes and restaurants. Yes, it's a food hall with, of all things, a Melbourne coffee-inspired cafe. Maybe this sister city thing does work. The area that is now The Grand Green used to be the old Umeda freight station before the city partnered with the private sector to create an urban space that includes commercial and incubation facilities as well as the park, hotels and residential units. I think that might explain all those prams. The magazine Time Out opened a new iteration of its celebrated city markets underground at the Grand Green. ( ABC News: Virginia Trioli ) Now, the moment I mention old freight yards, I'm sure your mind has turned to the one nearest you: that ugly abandoned or under-used pile of old tracks, rolling stock and buildings, an eyesore on prime land usually right near the centre of town. You're right to think of it, because not only is it wasted, unsustainable space, your city now has an obligation, like every other one around the country, to turn it into small-scale residential housing sustained by open green space. Many cities are trying for something like this. Of course, everyone I stumbled on this scene on a recent trip as I went in search of what had been described to me as a near perfect example of an urban green development. ( ABC News: Virginia Trioli ) I've always found it impressive and deflating in equal measure that this celebrated project is almost entirely supported by a volunteer army of locals who green and garden on roster. What disappoints me is that while the City of New York owns the High Line and the underlying viaduct, the Friends of the High Line manage and operate the park, largely funding it through private donations. So, the city gets the greening, tourism and livability benefit without any ongoing project funding. That's just mean. Where's the state and federal money for something everyone benefits from? I live near the oldest city park in Melbourne, and it is now surrounded by residential units in the same way, and I am always amazed and delighted to see how intensely Flagstaff Gardens is used: by mums and their babies, young couples and their small dogs, city workers and their take-out lunch. Every city wants something like the High Line park in Manhattan. ( Getty/AFP: Spencer Platt ) It's the social exchange that as a country we have been lousy at making and offering: we will build homes for you, on a smaller and denser scale than you originally had in mind, but we will provide a beautiful and accessible green space that we will maintain well and that will connect you much more strongly with your community than any outer-suburban new tree-less mega-home could. It's a proposition that requires the inclusion of the wonderfully talented architects, urban planners, landscape designers and sustainability and housing experts that I know we have in this country with a private sector that needs to be persuaded that their profit margin isn't the highest priority in a major project of urban and green renewal. Photo shows Virginia Trioli in a stylish suit on a set with lighting behind her Start your weekend with the best of the ABC's journalism, presented by Virginia Trioli. Discover compelling features, big ideas and revealing analysis to understand the stories that matter to Australians. The proposition needs close and careful design of smaller scale homes within residential units that meet a family's real needs. And then, it requires very persuasive and credible people to communicate this idea to people and families who still resist giving up their dream of a stand-alone home on a quarter-acre block. It is no longer fanciful to argue for this. In the face of entrenched political resistance to the taxation reforms that have put housing beyond many Australians' reach, then re-shaping how we build and develop, and the roles that city councils and state governments must play in that, seems more necessary than ever. And it is being done well elsewhere. You really can build it, and they really will come. This weekend you have your choice of What to read this weekend: Have a safe and happy weekend. Don't forget to tune into the ABC's election night coverage from 5:30pm AEST, on ABC TV and iView and hopefully we'll have an early enough result that you'll be able fit in The last episode of this series, on the brilliant Richard Tognetti, goes to air next Tuesday, and thank you for all your lovely comments on the shows so far. I hope I get to do it all again for you. And if all the political noise around the TV gets too much for you tonight, whack in the ear buds and turn this up, and the world should disappear — just for a bit. Go well. Loading YouTube content Virginia Trioli is presenter of Creative Types and a former co-host of ABC News Breakfast and Mornings on ABC Radio Melbourne.
The Age
02-05-2025
- The Age
How to do Japan better than the rest, according to an expert
Day 9 & 10, Osaka Japan's second city Witness the monks' pre-sunrise prayers, complete with drumbeats, chanting and incense burning before a gold altar. After breakfast, head back down to earth on the cable car – and travel by train to Osaka. Heaven for foodies, Japan's second-biggest city is famed for its down-to-earth atmosphere and boisterous nightlife. It's also the setting for Osaka Expo 2025, running from April 13 to October 13. Head to Yumeshina on Osaka Bay to explore a string of international pavilions wrapped in a giant wooden ring designed by architect Sou Fujimoto (be sure to book tickets in advance). Check into the Four Seasons Osaka for a cloud-brushing taste of luxury; or Zentis Osaka for a less-pricey design hotel experience. Cookery, culture and karaoke Learn how to make Osakan street food – from okonomiyaki pancakes to udon noodles – at an Eat Osaka cookery class run by local mothers. Nakanoshima is also worth exploring – home to a growing hub of museums and culture spots. Take your pick from the Nakanoshima Museum of Art, the Museum of Oriental Ceramics and the Nakanoshima Children's Book Forest, a library designed by legendary Osakan architect Tadao Ando. In the evening, drink beer with locals in an izakaya-style pub, before letting off steam at karaoke. Day 11, 12 & 13, Naoshima Island life Next, head out to sea. Take two trains to Uno port in Kagawa prefecture, and then a private boat to Naoshima. A contemporary art mecca, this small fishing island is a textbook template of how to revitalise an ageing rural community through art. This year, the acclaimed (and ever-growing) Setouchi Triennale returns, a 100-day contemporary art festival spanning 17 islands and coastal areas, which started on April 18 ( The best place to stay is Benesse House a sleek minimal concrete space by the architect Tadao Ando. Check in for two nights before exploring the subterranean Chichu museum, with its treasured Monet Water Lilies, art installations on local wooden houses, and the abstract rock installations in the Lee Ufan Museum. Loading Remote beaches and rural creativity Hop on a local ferry to neighbouring island Teshima. Here, hire an electric bicycle at the port and cycle across the hilly rural landscape, soaking up the creative atmosphere – from the minimal white Teshima Art Museum, inspired by a drop of water, to Christian Boltanski's installation on a remote beach where visitors can record their own heartbeat. Return to Naoshima and finish up with a muscle-warming soak at I Love Yu, a kitsch bathhouse in Miyanoura Port. Art experiences Take a ferry back to Takamatsu Port. Next stop: Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum. It was in the tiny village of Mure that the sculptor built his home and studio, both painstakingly preserved – in a beautiful natural setting (an advance appointment is essential). Take a 20-minute train ride to Furutakamatsu Minami and a 10-minute taxi, before being escorted through the intimately scattered abstract artworks. Head to Takamatsu airport and fly to Tokyo Haneda. For a final touch of luxury, check into the Palace Hotel, which fuses contemporary comforts and quality design with legendary hospitality, in a prime location overlooking the Imperial Palace moat. Day 14, Tokyo - Final farewell Request a table on the terrace for your final breakfast (looking out for passing swans). If you have time, enjoy some last-minute shopping – from the boutiques and flagships of Omotesando to the department stores of Ginza. The details When to go Autumn is perhaps the best time of the year to visit, with mild weather, blue skies and vivid landscapes of fiery-leafed trees. From late December and early January, temperatures drop – making it a good time to head to a northern ski resort or south for some Okinawan winter sunshine. Spring brings the iconic cherry blossom season (and lots of crowds). Golden Week around May is best avoided as it's so busy. July and August are uncomfortably hot and humid in Tokyo and Kyoto – making it a good time to escape to the cooler green mountains of northern Japan. Tour Among the best independent Japan travel specialists is InsideJapan ( with its vast network of contacts and expertise for all budgets. It offers a 14-day Japan Unmasked small group tour costing $7130pp (excluding flights). The trip passes through Tokyo, Nagano, Matsumoto, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Kurashiki, with the price including 13 nights accommodation, transport, some private guiding and experiences such as a walking tour through Gion (geisha district) and a cycling tour of the Kibi Plain. Loading Ultimate luxury At the more luxury end of the spectrum, Black Tomato ( can curate a high-end bespoke itinerary from $124,000 for a group of four people (excluding flights), including top accommodation (including Benesse House on Naoshima and Beniya Mukayu), a string of curated experiences and private guiding. On a budget If your short on time and money, Intrepid Travel has a nine-day 'Japan Express' tour taking in Tokyo, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Osaka by bullet train, starting from $2556 per person excluding flights. Insider tips If you're travelling independently and taking more than one bullet train trip, it's worth investing in a Japan Rail Pass, purchasing it ahead of arrival, so you can travel anywhere on the JR network. If you have large suitcases or ski equipment, there is a nationwide service which can deliver your luggage ahead of you – to hotels and airports, for example – typically arriving a day after sending. It can be organised by most hotels or at 7-Eleven convenience stores. Otherwise, it's worth bearing in mind that on bullet trains, you have to book space on board for large luggage. Pick up a bento box to savour while on board bullet trains: most train stations offer a wide range of bento boxes, often showcasing regional ingredients. Cash is still used far more widely than in many other destinations; for ATMs that are compatible with international bank cards, head to any 7-Eleven or post office. Don't open or close taxi doors; the white-gloved driver may be a bit upset (they pride themselves on operating the doors). And there is no tipping culture. Bring nice socks, ideally without holes, as you will be slipping your shoes on and off repeatedly, particularly in temples and ryokan inns. In winter, especially if it's chilly in rural spots such as Mount Koya, pick up some 'kairo' heat pads in the local convenience store to warm you up.
