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My favourite hotel in Osaka - where hipster cool meet timeless Japanese charm
My favourite hotel in Osaka - where hipster cool meet timeless Japanese charm

The Advertiser

time08-08-2025

  • The Advertiser

My favourite hotel in Osaka - where hipster cool meet timeless Japanese charm

By Anabel Dean The guest lounge at Zentis Osaka. Beauty lies in restraint and that's a philosophy that defines Zentis Osaka. Its opening in 2020 might have seemed unfortunate timing, but this calmly sophisticated retreat has quickly earned international recognition for all the right reasons. British designer Tara Bernerd has engineered a smartly edgy space that blends Western elegance with Japanese sensibilities. Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area The taxi driver needs focus to find Zentis Osaka, a 16-storey tower on a quiet backstreet within Dojimahama's lively business and food district, yet it's only five minutes from Osaka Station. Nakanoshima island - a cultural enclave in the heart of the city - is just a 10-minute walk away. As architect Tadao Ando's hometown, Osaka naturally draws crowds to his famous Children's Book Forest on Nakanoshima, so long queues feel inevitable. His massive green apple waterfront sculpture embodies another philosophy: "perpetual growth that never fully ripens" - a fitting metaphor for this progressive city. Each room bears British designer Tara Bernerd's deft touch. Playful and unapologetically urban, Zentis Osaka is a Design Hotel member attracting friendly design-conscious travellers, creative professionals, digital nomads and immaculately dressed families. A double-sided fireplace anchors the naturally lit guest-only lounge where floor-to-ceiling windows create seamless flow into tranquil green spaces. The scene-stealer is a flop-and-drop zone with books that you wouldn't leave were it not for a sculptural floating limestone staircase ascending to Upstairz restaurant. Compact is transformed into creative with rooms, like bento boxes, prioritising intelligent design over raw square footage in clearly defined sections. My 57-square-metre suite feels spacious (though even the 25-square-metre studios avoid the discomforting hotel-squeezy feeling of so many Japanese city hotels). From my sofa, there's a glimpse of Osaka Castle - perhaps the city's main cultural attraction - through soundproofed windows. A muted, earthy palette is enlivened by furnishings that nod to mid-century industrial chic while maintaining a distinctly Japanese aesthetic. Shigaraki-yaki bedside tables are crafted in the kilns of Shiga (a prefecture renowned for its pottery). Contemporary artworks complete the picture, while bathrooms offer the ultimate sanctuary, a deep-soaking bathtub, with size-perfect cotton pyjamas to follow. Breakfast is served. Upstairz restaurant spans open kitchen, lounge and covered terrace, but food transcends typical hotel dining. French-Japanese fusion by Michelin-starred chef Shinya Otsuchihashi celebrates seasonal ingredients with precision. Who'd have thought that a melange of fresh vegetables - each bite receiving its own meticulous sauteed, fried or grilled preparation - could rank as one of the most memorable meals in Japan? Head bartender Norihiko Furuse crafts cocktails to match the kitchen: his award-winning "Wine of Citrus Heart" with champagne, gin, grapefruit and shiso leaf draws locals to mingle with in-house guests at the snazzy bar. The Green Apple sculpture at Nakanoshima Children's Book Forest. Staff are quietly attentive, unlocking experiences beyond the typical tourist circuit. Curated recommendations? How about a breakfast cruise floating along the river aboard the lovingly restored wooden Camome. Nakanoshima's museums and galleries offer respite from urban chaos, but a hotel-recommended guide will take visitors to places not easily discovered, like calligraphy and seal carving artist Obara Kinuko. Zentis Osaka is a gem of quiet sophistication away from urban chaos, connected to everything that matters, without a crushing price tag. Room 001 is a kind of hipster's laundrette where you can wash clothes while browsing a selection of fragrances, flipping through artsy architecture books, getting your boots polished and helping yourself to a cup of coffee. The writer was a guest of the hotel

How to do Japan better than the rest, according to an expert
How to do Japan better than the rest, according to an expert

The Age

time02-05-2025

  • The Age

How to do Japan better than the rest, according to an expert

Day 9 & 10, Osaka Japan's second city Witness the monks' pre-sunrise prayers, complete with drumbeats, chanting and incense burning before a gold altar. After breakfast, head back down to earth on the cable car – and travel by train to Osaka. Heaven for foodies, Japan's second-biggest city is famed for its down-to-earth atmosphere and boisterous nightlife. It's also the setting for Osaka Expo 2025, running from April 13 to October 13. Head to Yumeshina on Osaka Bay to explore a string of international pavilions wrapped in a giant wooden ring designed by architect Sou Fujimoto (be sure to book tickets in advance). Check into the Four Seasons Osaka for a cloud-brushing taste of luxury; or Zentis Osaka for a less-pricey design hotel experience. Cookery, culture and karaoke Learn how to make Osakan street food – from okonomiyaki pancakes to udon noodles – at an Eat Osaka cookery class run by local mothers. Nakanoshima is also worth exploring – home to a growing hub of museums and culture spots. Take your pick from the Nakanoshima Museum of Art, the Museum of Oriental Ceramics and the Nakanoshima Children's Book Forest, a library designed by legendary Osakan architect Tadao Ando. In the evening, drink beer with locals in an izakaya-style pub, before letting off steam at karaoke. Day 11, 12 & 13, Naoshima Island life Next, head out to sea. Take two trains to Uno port in Kagawa prefecture, and then a private boat to Naoshima. A contemporary art mecca, this small fishing island is a textbook template of how to revitalise an ageing rural community through art. This year, the acclaimed (and ever-growing) Setouchi Triennale returns, a 100-day contemporary art festival spanning 17 islands and coastal areas, which started on April 18 ( The best place to stay is Benesse House a sleek minimal concrete space by the architect Tadao Ando. Check in for two nights before exploring the subterranean Chichu museum, with its treasured Monet Water Lilies, art installations on local wooden houses, and the abstract rock installations in the Lee Ufan Museum. Loading Remote beaches and rural creativity Hop on a local ferry to neighbouring island Teshima. Here, hire an electric bicycle at the port and cycle across the hilly rural landscape, soaking up the creative atmosphere – from the minimal white Teshima Art Museum, inspired by a drop of water, to Christian Boltanski's installation on a remote beach where visitors can record their own heartbeat. Return to Naoshima and finish up with a muscle-warming soak at I Love Yu, a kitsch bathhouse in Miyanoura Port. Art experiences Take a ferry back to Takamatsu Port. Next stop: Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum. It was in the tiny village of Mure that the sculptor built his home and studio, both painstakingly preserved – in a beautiful natural setting (an advance appointment is essential). Take a 20-minute train ride to Furutakamatsu Minami and a 10-minute taxi, before being escorted through the intimately scattered abstract artworks. Head to Takamatsu airport and fly to Tokyo Haneda. For a final touch of luxury, check into the Palace Hotel, which fuses contemporary comforts and quality design with legendary hospitality, in a prime location overlooking the Imperial Palace moat. Day 14, Tokyo - Final farewell Request a table on the terrace for your final breakfast (looking out for passing swans). If you have time, enjoy some last-minute shopping – from the boutiques and flagships of Omotesando to the department stores of Ginza. The details When to go Autumn is perhaps the best time of the year to visit, with mild weather, blue skies and vivid landscapes of fiery-leafed trees. From late December and early January, temperatures drop – making it a good time to head to a northern ski resort or south for some Okinawan winter sunshine. Spring brings the iconic cherry blossom season (and lots of crowds). Golden Week around May is best avoided as it's so busy. July and August are uncomfortably hot and humid in Tokyo and Kyoto – making it a good time to escape to the cooler green mountains of northern Japan. Tour Among the best independent Japan travel specialists is InsideJapan ( with its vast network of contacts and expertise for all budgets. It offers a 14-day Japan Unmasked small group tour costing $7130pp (excluding flights). The trip passes through Tokyo, Nagano, Matsumoto, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Kurashiki, with the price including 13 nights accommodation, transport, some private guiding and experiences such as a walking tour through Gion (geisha district) and a cycling tour of the Kibi Plain. Loading Ultimate luxury At the more luxury end of the spectrum, Black Tomato ( can curate a high-end bespoke itinerary from $124,000 for a group of four people (excluding flights), including top accommodation (including Benesse House on Naoshima and Beniya Mukayu), a string of curated experiences and private guiding. On a budget If your short on time and money, Intrepid Travel has a nine-day 'Japan Express' tour taking in Tokyo, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Osaka by bullet train, starting from $2556 per person excluding flights. Insider tips If you're travelling independently and taking more than one bullet train trip, it's worth investing in a Japan Rail Pass, purchasing it ahead of arrival, so you can travel anywhere on the JR network. If you have large suitcases or ski equipment, there is a nationwide service which can deliver your luggage ahead of you – to hotels and airports, for example – typically arriving a day after sending. It can be organised by most hotels or at 7-Eleven convenience stores. Otherwise, it's worth bearing in mind that on bullet trains, you have to book space on board for large luggage. Pick up a bento box to savour while on board bullet trains: most train stations offer a wide range of bento boxes, often showcasing regional ingredients. Cash is still used far more widely than in many other destinations; for ATMs that are compatible with international bank cards, head to any 7-Eleven or post office. Don't open or close taxi doors; the white-gloved driver may be a bit upset (they pride themselves on operating the doors). And there is no tipping culture. Bring nice socks, ideally without holes, as you will be slipping your shoes on and off repeatedly, particularly in temples and ryokan inns. In winter, especially if it's chilly in rural spots such as Mount Koya, pick up some 'kairo' heat pads in the local convenience store to warm you up.

How to do Japan better than the rest, according to an expert
How to do Japan better than the rest, according to an expert

Sydney Morning Herald

time02-05-2025

  • Sydney Morning Herald

How to do Japan better than the rest, according to an expert

Day 9 & 10, Osaka Japan's second city Witness the monks' pre-sunrise prayers, complete with drumbeats, chanting and incense burning before a gold altar. After breakfast, head back down to earth on the cable car – and travel by train to Osaka. Heaven for foodies, Japan's second-biggest city is famed for its down-to-earth atmosphere and boisterous nightlife. It's also the setting for Osaka Expo 2025, running from April 13 to October 13. Head to Yumeshina on Osaka Bay to explore a string of international pavilions wrapped in a giant wooden ring designed by architect Sou Fujimoto (be sure to book tickets in advance). Check into the Four Seasons Osaka for a cloud-brushing taste of luxury; or Zentis Osaka for a less-pricey design hotel experience. Cookery, culture and karaoke Learn how to make Osakan street food – from okonomiyaki pancakes to udon noodles – at an Eat Osaka cookery class run by local mothers. Nakanoshima is also worth exploring – home to a growing hub of museums and culture spots. Take your pick from the Nakanoshima Museum of Art, the Museum of Oriental Ceramics and the Nakanoshima Children's Book Forest, a library designed by legendary Osakan architect Tadao Ando. In the evening, drink beer with locals in an izakaya-style pub, before letting off steam at karaoke. Day 11, 12 & 13, Naoshima Island life Next, head out to sea. Take two trains to Uno port in Kagawa prefecture, and then a private boat to Naoshima. A contemporary art mecca, this small fishing island is a textbook template of how to revitalise an ageing rural community through art. This year, the acclaimed (and ever-growing) Setouchi Triennale returns, a 100-day contemporary art festival spanning 17 islands and coastal areas, which started on April 18 ( The best place to stay is Benesse House a sleek minimal concrete space by the architect Tadao Ando. Check in for two nights before exploring the subterranean Chichu museum, with its treasured Monet Water Lilies, art installations on local wooden houses, and the abstract rock installations in the Lee Ufan Museum. Loading Remote beaches and rural creativity Hop on a local ferry to neighbouring island Teshima. Here, hire an electric bicycle at the port and cycle across the hilly rural landscape, soaking up the creative atmosphere – from the minimal white Teshima Art Museum, inspired by a drop of water, to Christian Boltanski's installation on a remote beach where visitors can record their own heartbeat. Return to Naoshima and finish up with a muscle-warming soak at I Love Yu, a kitsch bathhouse in Miyanoura Port. Art experiences Take a ferry back to Takamatsu Port. Next stop: Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum. It was in the tiny village of Mure that the sculptor built his home and studio, both painstakingly preserved – in a beautiful natural setting (an advance appointment is essential). Take a 20-minute train ride to Furutakamatsu Minami and a 10-minute taxi, before being escorted through the intimately scattered abstract artworks. Head to Takamatsu airport and fly to Tokyo Haneda. For a final touch of luxury, check into the Palace Hotel, which fuses contemporary comforts and quality design with legendary hospitality, in a prime location overlooking the Imperial Palace moat. Day 14, Tokyo - Final farewell Request a table on the terrace for your final breakfast (looking out for passing swans). If you have time, enjoy some last-minute shopping – from the boutiques and flagships of Omotesando to the department stores of Ginza. The details When to go Autumn is perhaps the best time of the year to visit, with mild weather, blue skies and vivid landscapes of fiery-leafed trees. From late December and early January, temperatures drop – making it a good time to head to a northern ski resort or south for some Okinawan winter sunshine. Spring brings the iconic cherry blossom season (and lots of crowds). Golden Week around May is best avoided as it's so busy. July and August are uncomfortably hot and humid in Tokyo and Kyoto – making it a good time to escape to the cooler green mountains of northern Japan. Tour Among the best independent Japan travel specialists is InsideJapan ( with its vast network of contacts and expertise for all budgets. It offers a 14-day Japan Unmasked small group tour costing $7130pp (excluding flights). The trip passes through Tokyo, Nagano, Matsumoto, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Kurashiki, with the price including 13 nights accommodation, transport, some private guiding and experiences such as a walking tour through Gion (geisha district) and a cycling tour of the Kibi Plain. Loading Ultimate luxury At the more luxury end of the spectrum, Black Tomato ( can curate a high-end bespoke itinerary from $124,000 for a group of four people (excluding flights), including top accommodation (including Benesse House on Naoshima and Beniya Mukayu), a string of curated experiences and private guiding. On a budget If your short on time and money, Intrepid Travel has a nine-day 'Japan Express' tour taking in Tokyo, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Osaka by bullet train, starting from $2556 per person excluding flights. Insider tips If you're travelling independently and taking more than one bullet train trip, it's worth investing in a Japan Rail Pass, purchasing it ahead of arrival, so you can travel anywhere on the JR network. If you have large suitcases or ski equipment, there is a nationwide service which can deliver your luggage ahead of you – to hotels and airports, for example – typically arriving a day after sending. It can be organised by most hotels or at 7-Eleven convenience stores. Otherwise, it's worth bearing in mind that on bullet trains, you have to book space on board for large luggage. Pick up a bento box to savour while on board bullet trains: most train stations offer a wide range of bento boxes, often showcasing regional ingredients. Cash is still used far more widely than in many other destinations; for ATMs that are compatible with international bank cards, head to any 7-Eleven or post office. Don't open or close taxi doors; the white-gloved driver may be a bit upset (they pride themselves on operating the doors). And there is no tipping culture. Bring nice socks, ideally without holes, as you will be slipping your shoes on and off repeatedly, particularly in temples and ryokan inns. In winter, especially if it's chilly in rural spots such as Mount Koya, pick up some 'kairo' heat pads in the local convenience store to warm you up.

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