Most everything is $25-and-under at Tacoma's newest pizzeria, opening Wednesday
'We are really looking forward to being part of the community and filling a gap for families,' said co-owner Chris Olson on Tuesday.
Fans of the Fondi across the bridge, which debuted in 2015 but became independent in 2019, when Olson and a team of investors rescued the dying brand from its corporate parent company, will recognize the goods.
Pies — 12-inches only — are crafted with a 20-year-old sourdough, hand-stretched to order and baked for all of 90 seconds ($16-$25). While Gig Harbor uses a wood-fired Wood Stone oven, Proctor has been outfitted with a Ferrari-red Fiero Forni stone oven that's gas-powered. Classic pizzas include a margherita, the Milano with Cascioppo Bros. Italian sausage and herbed chicken, and a quadruple-cheese with house tomato sauce. Specialty pies range from the Mamma Roma with caramelized onions, sausage and cheese to a white pie with pears, prosciutto and balsamic.
Salads are also a hit from the other Fondi, available in three sizes of keeping to yourself or sharing ($9-$24). A cup of zuppa di pomodoro always comes with a breadstick.
A few other appetizers, including a white-bean spread, bruschetta and pepperoni rolls, and a trio of pastas complete the savory menu. Finish with cheesecake, crème brûlée, raspberry-lemon cheesecake and affogato with Caffe Umbria espresso.
From the bar, cocktails ($14-$18) focus on classics, from a negroni and Manhattan to an amaretto sour and a few varieties of cosmos. Olson called out the old-fashioned of 100-proof Old Forester bourbon aged in-house with cherry bitters and orange liqueur. There's also a modest selection of red and white wines from Italy and the Northwest as well as beer — a house IPA and amber among them.
Co-owner Chris Olson and his team have been hard at work on the former Millhouse and The Blind Pig space at 2515 N. Proctor St. since late last year. They knocked down a few walls, painting them in warm orange and yellows reminiscent of a Tuscan sunset, hung black frames with art-deco posters of Italian brands, and installed modern lighting. Big old windows also provide ample natural light during the day.
'I wanted it to be light and bright,' said Olson on Tuesday. 'The concept is great for this footprint.'
The dining room is flexible in that tables can be arranged to accommodate large groups and families with kids, while the bar offers 10 or so stools. Order and pay at the counter, but staff comes around to assist with additional needs.
At lunch, the restaurant serves a slightly truncated menu that adds a few paninis, $13 personal 10-inch pies, and a $12 soup-and-salad combo ($13 for half-panini and one of the two sides). Bottles of wine are half-off every Wednesday, and on school nights, from 2-5 p.m. dine-in only, take advantage of the $34 'pizza per due' deal: one pizza, one medium salad and two beverages (soda, bottle of Peroni, pint of amber, glass of house red or white wine).
▪ 2515 N. Proctor St., Tacoma, 253-301-2994, fondi.com
▪ Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
▪ Details: counter-service, all-ages pizzeria with stone-oven, Neapolitan-style pies, salads and apps, plus lunch deals and full bar
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